gll429

a little update about the vfrDEAFNESS thread.... I AM NOW A CYBORG!! Got my head drilled and skull ground shaved and implant installed.. now..... holy crap! 30 years of music to catch up on... so.. anyone close to hagerstown who can teach me the guitar or bass in exchange for work done o their bike/ bikes ?

my cut and paste brake/ clutch help..before you start.. get your drink of choice.. bleeding the clutch and brake lines.. its so damned easy a cave man can do it.take a clear tube.works best if the tube has about 8 inches going UP from the nipple then curving down.. use a zip tie or tape to hold it up..that way you have a good clear view of whats coming out before it dumps . and place on brake/slave nipple. it should be snug or tight..angle bars so the brake MC is level.. take the top off...loosen nipple at the brake/slave.. sit back and have a beer..or your fav drink...GRAVITY will do its job.. no squeezen , no pumpin , no bitchen , no yellin , no screaming , no fuzz, no muss. look as fluid enters tube.. any bubble? or just fluid? nasty colored ? or clear ? add new fluid to the mc as it gets LOW...tighten nipple when you feel enough fluid has gone through.. normally about 2/3 cup for me.. repeat with other side.place cap on MC. squeeze lever. does the brake firm up? wheel stop? good!if not. remove MC FROM BAR.. angle so the hose is at the lowest spot aka end of lever pointed at the sky... tap hose and mc with a screwdriver handle to move any bubbles trapped in the banjo bolt area.repeat on clutch..place in 1st gear and give a squeeze.. it will not be anywhere close to the firmness of a brake.. does the bike roll? presto youre done. the rear is almost the same.. you just need to slowly pump the foot lever and watch the fluid rise in the clear tube until its nice and clear. then tighten nipple.

first check for loose engine mounting bolts . motor shakes harder with the clutch engaged.. i have never encountered loose springs on the BACK of the clutch... and honda doesnt even show them on the parts finch.

i used the Meguiars kit on my 2000 civic.. worked great comes with multi grit pads and a pack of liquid to hard clear coat the final finish.

1st.. is the bike charging properly ? if yes.. leave it alone!! if no.. test it and rule out the stator.. if its bad, replace it.

check your PM..

I should hope so, i was only the head tech at a honda dealership and now build custom bikes. i ALWAYS add extra grounds to EVERY bike...especially hondas.

or you just use your head.. add 3 grounds from your wire harness to the frame.. front, mid, and back.. from the green wire in the main harness.. and remove the connector block from the stator to the r/r wires. watch the voltage go over 14 in a blink.. i recommend adding a computer fan over the r/r as heat is a killer.

just run an alltread rod through the rear axle and add the bobbins to that..

what the heckl ?? just go the next size up forget the helicoil crap.. use bearing grease on the threads of the tap to trap the shavings... pull the clutch cover to fish out any crap..

throw a computer fan on the r/r fins and it WILL help keep it cool.. installed one 10 years ago on stock r/r .. still going strong..and yes, i am a honda tech.

this bike doesnt have a tip over sensor either..

think pothole.. rebounds.. and the welding on the bottom around the edge makes a MASSIVE difference.

it was used on about 30 bikes... soooo..

awesome!! .. tack it in a few spots.. 30 + years of working on bikes i have seen a bunch fail.. it is indeed that thin.

nope.. you can run it from a hanging bottle..

i have seen failures from pot holes..aka the triple tree is so thin the riser pulled out.. flip your triple.. shape a piece of aluminum to fit into the pockets. install upside down on the bike.. tighten all bolts. have a welder weld the incerts... flip over drill holes and install your bits and ago for a ride :)

now THAT.. you may be able to fit.. if you are close enough ride your bike over to it ..and test it out.

if i remember right..atf TYPE F as spec'd is 10w

this guy started a similar project... but vanished... he has a bunch of posts that may help you out.. https://www.facebook.com/The-RVF-Project-149364815117109/

the manual calls for ATF as fork oil.. as its the same as 10w fork oil. as for cleaning.. the diesel will work pretty damned well.

the was a guy doing a crazy detailed 4th gen to rvf replica on facebook.. then it just stops 2 years ago... https://www.facebook.com/The-RVF-Project-149364815117109/ anyone have a clue if there is another page or site or ....??

all the shops i have worked in use all balls . as for the neck bearings.. go for the tapered roller kit.

I'm don't mean just a parts bin bike, new from the ground up. We've got 50 million to burn. then at 450 pounds , youre 100 overweight. magnesium for the swingarm ,triple trees and all unstressed fasteners . titainum for stressed fasteners. and exhaust carbon wheels, body work , subframe and engine case covers.

you need less than 10 grand for that.. 15 for full ohlins.. kinda a 750 with a supercharger and youre stomping everyone.