Member Contributer Switchblade Posted December 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 28, 2014 Wow ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HighSideNZ Posted December 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 28, 2014 Barnett are a US company that have been making bike clutch kits for as long as I can remember. We used to run them in the GSX based super bike back in the '80 '90 and always had a good run from them. The standard Gen 5 clutch was a but worn so I've replaced it with one of their kits that gives you kevlar friction plates and a new set of steel plates, plus 100lb springs. Time will tell how it works out I expect, but going on past experience it should be good. The motor is all stitched up sitting on the bench ready to be lifted on to the hoist to go back in the frame. Redid the valve clearances during the reassembly so they are all good to go. A couple of inlets had tightened up a thou or so so they should be all OK for the next 20000 km. Still got a few weeks in the moon boot so hopefully I can have it all back together when that comes off. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 You mean 200000 km, right? Top stuff!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted December 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 28, 2014 Not only top stuff, but also good therapy to keep occupied while the ankle heals. Any more pics you could share? Also, if I may ask a couple of questions - were any mods needed to line up the engine mounting bolt locations with the 6th gen frame bosses, and were there any issues adapting the 6th gen swingarm to the 5th gen engine case? I've wondered how one can tell if the front and rear sprockets remain on the same centerline through that process. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted December 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 28, 2014 Based on my observations and a bit of hands on experience with MiniCarvers build, all the parts bolt up. Only major modifications are with the coil on plugs of the 6th Gen. The "rear cushion" is what bolts onto the rear of the engine and the foot pegs and swing arm bolt onto it. It's completely interchangeable 5-6 Gen. (Maybe even 2014 8th Gen?) As long as you use the swing arm pivot bolt and spacers appropriate to the rear cushion, as opposed to the engine/ swing arm, they all bolt up. Frame mounts are also the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HighSideNZ Posted December 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 28, 2014 As KevCarver outlined there is no difference in the physical engine mountings or swingarm pickups. I modded the 6th Gen standard coil packs to fit the 5th Gen and used all the 6th Gen electronics and throttle bodies. One thing that is a pain is that due to the 5th Gen heads being 16.5mm shorter than the 6th Gen, the hole in the right rear section of the frame that is to allow you to see the rear cam timing mark does not line up any more. This makes in frame valve adjustment/cam timing somewhat more problematic. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CasualSwede Posted December 28, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 28, 2014 As KevCarver outlined there is no difference in the physical engine mountings or swingarm pickups. I modded the 6th Gen standard coil packs to fit the 5th Gen and used all the 6th Gen electronics and throttle bodies. One thing that is a pain is that due to the 5th Gen heads being 16.5mm shorter than the 6th Gen, the hole in the right rear section of the frame that is to allow you to see the rear cam timing mark does not line up any more. This makes in frame valve adjustment/cam timing somewhat more problematic. Phil Would using a small mirror help get around this problem? Great work, BTW, this is my first time going through this thread and it's always cool to see guys pushing the boundaries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HighSideNZ Posted December 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 29, 2014 Yep that is what I was thinking but until I get the motor back in the frame I'm not sure as to what clearance there is to get a mirror down between the frame casting and the cams. The frame casting curves back over the engine so it is going to be rather tight. Thanks for the encouragement. Greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted December 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 29, 2014 you can always do what i do... time your engine BEFORE you put it back in the frame.. on other bikes i PAINTED the cam gear with neon paint before taking them apart, that way when the crank mark it lined up i line up the dot i can see with a corresponding mark on the cam holder or frame or what ever was used on said bike.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted December 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 29, 2014 Yep that is what I was thinking but until I get the motor back in the frame I'm not sure as to what clearance there is to get a mirror down between the frame casting and the cams. The frame casting curves back over the engine so it is going to be rather tight. Thanks for the encouragement. Greatly appreciated. book a dentist appointment and nick one of these...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HighSideNZ Posted December 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 29, 2014 Timing it out of the frame is what I've done but that kind of makes a big job of doing the shims next time. May as well have stayed with the VTec. LOL The dentist mirror looks like the best option so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 It's not at a point on the frame you could drill a new viewing hole into without compromising the strength of the frame?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HighSideNZ Posted December 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 29, 2014 Been looking at drilling a new hole and I'm afraid it might weaken the casting. The existing hole is a complete boss so it is reinforced on the inside. Seeing the heads on the 5thGen are so much lower I'd be drilling thru a single thickness section so I'd rather not risk it. I think the safest is back to the mirror Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted December 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 29, 2014 its simple dude,, out the timing mark cat the crank at tdc.. mark the cam and the cam holder.. take apart and reassemble double check with the mirror.. but the paint makes things muck faster.. be happy youre not dealing with a freaking timing chain too. as for drilling a hole.. you CAN do it. if you have a connecting tube fit and welded in place.. added strength and keeps water out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted December 29, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 29, 2014 As KevCarver outlined there is no difference in the physical engine mountings or swingarm pickups. I modded the 6th Gen standard coil packs to fit the 5th Gen and used all the 6th Gen electronics and throttle bodies. One thing that is a pain is that due to the 5th Gen heads being 16.5mm shorter than the 6th Gen, the hole in the right rear section of the frame that is to allow you to see the rear cam timing mark does not line up any more. This makes in frame valve adjustment/cam timing somewhat more problematic. Phil Hmmm Me think a new hole is needed . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted December 29, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted December 29, 2014 Nah mark the other side of the cam gear that you can see at TDC out of the frame. Designers are stupid when they insist that all cams be marked the same, when different marks would be simpler. A 5th gen rear cylinder is a pain in a 5th gen frame too ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted December 30, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 30, 2014 Nah mark the other side of the cam gear that you can see at TDC out of the frame. Bean counters are stupid when they insist that all cams be marked the same, when different marks would be simpler. A 5th gen rear cylinder is a pain in a 5th gen frame too ! FTFY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HighSideNZ Posted January 2, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 2, 2015 Well it all back together and running. I'll do a leakdown test tomorrow and also check the cooling system with a pressure tester but as it stands it a goer. Now all I need to for my ankle to heal and it'll be back on the road. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Awesome! Take the time to heal and stay off that ankle. Don't rush it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted January 2, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 2, 2015 Better heal first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted January 2, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 2, 2015 You sure put the bike back together in record time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HighSideNZ Posted January 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2015 OK, everything checked out fine with no leakage in the cooling system so it definitely looks good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted January 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2015 Any before and after pic'sof the head gasket modification ? Promise not to critique your work as long as there's no "pink tassels" on it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted January 3, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 3, 2015 Any before and after pic'sof the head gasket modification ? Promise not to critique your work as long as there's no "pink tassels" on it . WTF ,DUDE???!!! pink tassels ROCK!\ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HighSideNZ Posted January 4, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 4, 2015 Sorry no pics. All I did was ground the bores out to 75mm diameter. Honestly, from a pic you wouldn't tell the difference. As far as the Hylomar coating. It's just like spray painting except that you only put a light coat on and you need to mask off the area where the oil feed comes up thru the gasket and also the oil return back down thru the gasket. I have seen people get too carried away applying Hylomar and block the oilways on bike engines. Not a good outcome. You are just using it as a gasket dressing, nothing else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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