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Picking this back up... mbe I'l get to ride this bike! Did a check fit of the rebuilt calipers with all blingy Titanium fasteners on the fresh silver powder coat painted wheelz... Looking very fine... Then stopped in to Spiegler Performance to grab a few banjo bolts.( I live too close to them!). On display were these fancy levers..... The guy behind the counter looks at me and says "you like?" Me-----oooooooooooo! Counter guy... "Well (Sucker ..me) We can set you up with those!" Me while drooling... "'I'm such a sucker for bling. But those are expensive!" (Yeah, right) ... out goes the credit card We'll see how they work on when installed..... Note to self ---- "Stop spending on this 28 year old motorcycle!' (Yeah, right....🤪)

Ran the bike today, predictably it reacted exactly as you stated. Like you. I was never able to find a 100C single pin switch. I'll install a manual fan switch for when I'm in high ambient temps stuck in traffic.

It looked bad but after a soak it was much worse than it appeared. I was lucky to find a tank in Germany yesterday via Ebay, it's on its way 🙂

You might find this helpful.

I will take a closer look at that when I get home. just have to figure out how to take the fairings off first. I am going to do another parasitic drain test to be sure. Since you know more about this stuff, what range of numbers on the multimeter is considered normal when testing this? is it normal for the number to jump really high when I first complete circuit then slowly drop back down? I sort of took the fairing off to see where it could plug into or where it came from. it looks to be a pretty short wire and i followed it and the wire seems to originate near the R/R not sure though as there is a cluster of wires in that area so it could go further. i just dont want to break fairings trying to take them off if I dont need to. is the "flapper" something many people disconnect? if so, I will leave it alone. last question I promise. At this point with trying to solve this. do I install a battery disconnect switch to stop the drain till I fix it? if so, any brands or links as to what I should get? also, thank you guys for helping me with this! as someone who is more mechanically inclined. this electronic stuff freaks me out. your help has been so genuinely appreciated!!!

It handles much better now, of course. Handlebar input isn't sucked up by squishy fork springs. With proper compression and rebound settings, all the action happens down at the road instead of up by your hands so it's a much less fatiguing to ride. It goes where I point it with much better manners. Feels like being on a rail around turns.

Had the same problem on my 2001. By the time I put mt third rear on, I just filed the opening bigger. I now have an aftermarket exhaust though.

Yes, the problem was there thank you very much

Here are some TTS/JE piston pics: The used OEM piston is from my '93 VFR750FP (not an RC46), but this should show the difference between an OEM cast/forged(?) piston and a JE machined piston. Obviously, a used JE piston will be slightly less shiny, but you should still be able to see what you need to see. More pics, FYI: Ciao, JZH

Is it possible to loosen the footrest hanger to get things lined up and then tighten everything up? Alternatively, use a file to extend the hole on the silencer mount, it looks like 2-3 mm.

thank you for the reply, the silencer is 100% seated into the header with both the clamp bolts lose. still have these strange gap...

Most likely that the silencer isn't seated correctly at the clamp where it joins the exhaust. Loosen the clamp and wiggle it until it all lines up.

Hi, I recently bought a 2000 VFR in perfect condition. The bike was equipped with an aftermarket exhaust, which I immediately resold to replace with the original one. I only have one small problem... the bolt to secure it doesn't match up by a few millimeters as shown in the photo... what could be the cause?

That disconnected plug may be the intake duct solenoid connector ( flapper). The 14-15 models had a flapper but it was deleted from 16 on. The wires will be black/white band and yellow/blue band. Not sure just disconnecting is a good idea unless the flapper itself was also removed. The connection is at the base of the air box on the RHS. I think you have to remove the plastic panel immediately below the tank and lift the front of the tank to get to it; remove seat, undo 2 allen head bolts on the plastic piece just under the side of the seat and slide the tabs out of the locators on the tank. Undo 2 allen head bolts at front of tank and lift. The toolkit c spanner and extension are used as the support. Terry's advice on next steps electrically is spot on.

From looking at the wiring diagram I believe that removing that fuse will also deactivate your turn signals so maybe not the best idea. The fuse is feeding power along a red/green wire which goes to the blinker relay and also onwards to the instrument panel where I assume it feeds the clock. You could refit the fuse and then disconnect the turn signal relay and see if the drain drops, then reconnect that and disconnect the instrument panel and see if that is where the drain is. You may just need to replace a relay. Or if the drain is constant with those things removed, maybe you have some chafing on a wire that is causing a bit of a short.

I’ll look into the plug tomorrow and let you know what it is. I pulled the fairing off a little bit and couldn’t tell where it plugged into. on the side of the battery drain. Considering that the clock/HAZ fuse seems to be the issue. What should I look into to see what could be causing this. Since I kind of know what could be the issue, would it damage the bike to ride it without that fuse in it? It only controls the hazard lights and the clock memory I can live without those two for a while. I definitely want to get this fixed. what is the next step I should do to find this? Or would it be worth it to take it to the dealership to get it fixed?

That plug may be for the flapper actuator or possibly the PAIR actuator. Actually I'm not even sure the 8th gen has a flapper. If it is the plug for the PAIR system then that is not the smoking gun you're looking for; PAIR is a system that allows air from the airbox to be drawn into the exhaust headers to reduce unburned hydrocarbons. The ECM opens or closes the valve that lets the air in, and there are reed valve chambers on the cam covers to stop back flow. Many (me included) remove and blank these systems off to get rid of unecessary hardware, unlikely to be a performance gain (or loss) although my butt-dyno thinks my 6th gen is much less surgy without it. Another possibility is the evap purge control solenoid, again not a smoking gun. If you tell me what wire colours go to the plug we can identify it that way (green-orange is PAIR, Gr/blk-blk/wht is EVAP). The clock fuse also feeds the hazard lights according to the service manual wiring diagram.

It takes village...to replace Grum! No worries CDollard, you're in good hands.

You needed to clean and vinegar soak to confirm that level of corrosion? Dude, just keep searching and buy the correct tank. They are not that rare.

I started messing with the fuses after following the directions on 20m on the multimeter it showed -1 almost as a overload then settled down to almost -20.00 and settle down to -7.30 when I took out the fuse connected to the clock/HAZ it slowly fell to about -0.08 what all is connected to this fuse? Any likely culprits? I also noticed this plug under the fairing. This ring any bells as to what this is?

92 tank does NOT fit

Swiss cheese after a good cleaning and vinegar soak for a few days. Options? Fiberglass the entire thing? Make a cast and fiberglass a new one, keep searching eBay and such?

I don't think I've ever heard of a VFR that smokes badly through regular engine wear. I'd pull the spark plugs and see whether they are showing any signs of oil burning or over-rich operation. Rich running can be caused by the fuel pressure regulator, these can develop a diaphragm leak and raw fuel goes down the vacuum hose into one of the inlets, so you may want to check for any fuel in that hose (should be dry). Another possibility would be oil leaking into the PAIR ports if these are not sealed up, oil could enter the exhaust ports and get burnt. There is a gasket under the camcover that seals this to the head.

It could be valve seals.is there way to replace them without pulling the head off or taking the engine out?