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It was time...

Selling an almost new Power Commander 6 for a 1998-2009 VFR800, Dynojet Part number PC6-16005, bought new and only used on bike for about a month. Only selling as I have acquired a Rapidbike Race for my 06. Asking $300 plus shipping *Will add photos this weekend when I remove it from the bike, comes with original box as well

Scorpion carbon exhaust for sale, really good condition! $300 Email me at morrisbrettandrew12@gmail.com If interested

Went for a test ride, summer warm today where I live, +21°C, and a motorcycle club had a spring ride so crowded at my local Cafe But the cafe had been warned, so could grab something, a coke as ice cream The break's, yes they worked one like they should 👍 Did stop for a few pictures on way home And at that spot I was closely followed by this fellow at a distance Wonder where it's partner is, as they usually move in pairs, but can be they have egg's already so other is sitting on them in it's nest.

So I did look into the front brake The right hand caliper had one slide pin stuck, it cleaned up fairly easy through, one corrosion spot it had The pads are Nissin ones, did just sandpaper off the surface and clean the brake disc whit brake cleaner. The right hand disc was really dirty. Now one not so good thing is the other pin that holds the brake pads has a little cut Close inspection show also the brake caliper has a cut, it's like other caliper bolt has fallen off and caliper has run against the brake disc..... Also the plate between the caliper as brake pad is cut into two. For now just robbed the pin from other RC24 caliper 🤞

Have you checked the float heights? If the fuel level is unusually high, that will also make the bike run rich. A second thought is whether the emulsion tubes in the carbs are worn, this is where the needles sit. I had a Suzuki RF900 in 96 that developed terrible fuel consumption and occasional fouled plugs, and that was solely an issue with worn emulsion tubes. Looking into these tubes, they must be circular, if they're oval that will cause an issue.

Should be called “baffle” I guess, as all it does is keep mud dauber wasps from crawling in there & blocking off airflow. 😊

And if it is crumbly and deteriorating (likely), just eliminate it. Don't try to replace it with another type of foam. Speaking of that, if the foam looks too good, remove it. Maybe the previous owner used the wrong type. It doesn't need a "filter", it's not sucking, just venting. My 86 VFRs just have open vent tubes that point down..

Have a look @ the small foam filter for air plumbing taking atmospheric pressure to carb bodies, called “sub-air filter” in parts book. Needs to be very free flowing as these are vacuum operated slides in carbs

I bet that sounds mean on WOT

I recently bought a 1991 VFR 750 and it runs very rich. I have removed the carbs and they had 125 mains on the top cylinders and 120s on the bottom cylinders. The screws where 2 turns out and the choke mechanism seemed to be working fine. I am very puzzled on why is isn't running right because it looks like the carb settings are what the bike should have. I am wondering what else could be wrong and what else to check. I am 900ft above sea level if that means anything tuning wise.

If it is clear, enlarging it is not going to do anything positive. A slave piston will not automatically retract back in with the slave cylinder in your hand. And it takes a firm squeeze to compress it back in on a properly working system. You said you have new frictions on the way? Be sure to dress your metal plates before you re-assemble.

I have been saying that the whole time I have been sorting mine out. Bikes are getting old and aftermarket items are disappearing from the market.

6th gen VFR800 has finally got a road legal LED light bulb. OSRAM has homologated their OSRAM H7 Night Breaker LED SPEED 450% bulbs for road use in many European countries. VFR800 2002-2010 is listed in the first link below. Check the second link to see if it applies your country. They're a bit pricy at 130€ for a pair, and we have four. Make sure to have a series rectifier installed before switching to LED or a stator failure is imminent. https://look.ams-osram.com/m/686c4ad4f6b36d7b/original/Night-Breaker-LED-Compatibility-List-Motorcycle-EN.pdf https://www.osram.de/am/night-breaker-led/night-breaker-led-ledcheck.jsp?mkt=/ledcheck/

Hi everyone, I need some advice. Maybe someone has dealt with this before — what could be dripping from the left side of the bike? After I ride and put the bike on the side stand, about 10–20 drops of oil fall onto the exhaust header. It seems to drip from somewhere above on the left side, then runs down onto the stand and from there drips further. Everything above the stand is also covered in oily splashes. I went to a service shop, and they said it was the neutral switch (part number: 35759-MGH-642). They replaced the 0 ring, but it’s still leaking. I’m considering trusting the mechanic and replacing the whole part, but maybe someone has had a similar issue? Can the neutral switch itself crack and let oil through? If I just start the bike and let it idle, it doesn’t leak. But after riding, it starts dripping. The bike has a manual transmission. Thanks in advance for any advice. You can see on photos where stains on asphalt. And the photo he sent me showing where the oil was leaking from, apparently. It drips literally about 10–30 drops after I stop and put the bike on the side stand. d

It was factory when I got it.

I just did the remote tuning with sabsteef and dude was awesome. 5/5 stars. It was very easy and straight forward. He even disabled my exhaust solenoid so I could take it off the bike with no check engine light. I love the way the bike feels now. There is a noticeable increase in power and smoothness. It is so much fun. The delay is almost non existent. I am very happy with my decision to get it

Cleaned out that little port with a bristle from a wire brush. Could see daylight through it. Tempted to drill it out and give it a shot, way things are looking I'm gonna start spending on new parts anyway.

As well as modifying the brackets to suite the different subframe, you'll need to modify the exhaust. A good 1st step is to look at the installation guide, available from our downloads pages.

When you say "return port is not blocked" are you referring to the tiny port that I circled? Sorry to say, what you describe sounds like that port does have a partial blockage as it takes some time for the pressure to build up (probably as the clutch fluid heats up) so the slipping starts. The orientation of parts in the master looks correct, the pistons have to have their "cupped" ends pushing when the clutch lever is actuated.

only issue I see, the push rod needs to be reversed. flat side with brass bushing on lever and rounded tip inside the "cup" on piston.

Is there a certain orientation I have to arrange the spiral piston on assembly? Stumped. Feels like I'm hunting ghosts.

Took a week for it to start slipping again. Complete disassembly and cleaning of system, reassembly off the bike. Lever pulled, slave piston goes out. Lever released, slave piston fails to recede all the way back into the slave cylinder. Takes lots of pressure to push it back, must be what the poor clutch springs have been fighting against this whole time. Evidently, fluid is getting stuck in the hose/cylinder (not returning to master cylinder). HOWEVER! Return port is not blocked. Seals appear fine (?). I am getting PISSED. How could I possibly convince this piston to recede back into the slave cylinder. Also taking suggestions for new clutch activation delivery systems because this one seems haunted.

Can you have a talk with my VF1000Rs that have two front mount radiators? It would be great if they could gain some faith before Summer. I guess technically they're not "VFR"s, so they might not be receptive.