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1998 to 2000 conversion


bmart
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I'm not sure why reading a ruler is so difficult, but I can't seem to find someone who can do it accurately consistently. My gal helped last night while the bike was warm. She paid close attention. It is absolutely much better than it was prior. No way to adjust fork damping easily, but the rear shock needs some damping tweaking. Currently rebound set to 1.5 turns out from full in...but I think that the non adjustable compression is the real bugger. 

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A VFR, a CB-1, and a Suzuki ride into a bar, and the bartender says, "what is this, a joke?" Anyway...

 

I finally got out on UGLYRED, the 1998 VFR you all talked me into keeping, for the first ride since months ago. It functioned fine, but there were peculiarities in the dash display, but not other systems. The clock would periodically reset itself, as would the two trip meters. I've never seen that before on...anything.

 

Voltage remained correct at ~14.7V, like always. It was 12.5V when I rolled it out, which was a little odd, as I charge it every two weeks. The Motobatt battery is just under 3.5 years old and they seem to go 6-8 years without issue.  I checked the battery terminals;  the fuses and other connectors are up next (tonight/tomorrow). Then I remembered a post, which I couldn't find despite my best searching, about corroded connections in the board that makes up the dash. Does this sound related? Any other good ideas? Grounding connections? I did not need another bike task on the winter list! Red. I hate red!

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Found many fuses looked like these. Cleaned them and the fuse holder. Also the DIODE ASSY., THREE WAY (SUMITOMO)
31730-MAS-601, which looked like a fuse to me. 

 

20221126_184155.thumb.jpg.d7d08d1eaa1773ce0808bf2aa43c1ee3.jpg

 

20221126_184158.thumb.jpg.1e84898686b7225aaeea047cfac24617.jpg

 

20221126_184227.thumb.jpg.b573a470904489cfcf3ae25ed73cea3d.jpg

 

20221126_184422.thumb.jpg.d19e39d943404c35e654fdcb52f3bd48.jpg

 

20221126_185148.thumb.jpg.b583739492aa6ba8b1fefeef3b260e03.jpg

 

20221126_185152.thumb.jpg.675ed89c4d4041d0a5285ea9d10a1649.jpg

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3 hours ago, bmart said:

A VFR, a CB-1, and a Suzuki ride into a bar, and the bartender says, "what is this, a joke?" Anyway...

 

I finally got out on UGLYRED, the 1998 VFR you all talked me into keeping, for the first ride since months ago. It functioned fine, but there were peculiarities in the dash display, but not other systems. The clock would periodically reset itself, as would the two trip meters. I've never seen that before on...anything.

 

Voltage remained correct at ~14.7V, like always. It was 12.5V when I rolled it out, which was a little odd, as I charge it every two weeks. The Motobatt battery is just under 3.5 years old and they seem to go 6-8 years without issue.  I checked the battery terminals;  the fuses and other connectors are up next (tonight/tomorrow). Then I remembered a post, which I couldn't find despite my best searching, about corroded connections in the board that makes up the dash. Does this sound related? Any other good ideas? Grounding connections? I did not need another bike task on the winter list! Red. I hate red!

Hi Bmart.

If it was my bike, I'd go through those fuses and replace every one of them, they are most likely original and show signs of corrosion or oxidization on the legs. Give the contacts a wash with something like Metho on a firm small brush, then fit the new fuses with a small amount of Ox-Gard on the legs of each fuse. Given the not so good look of your Sub Fuses, have a good look at the state of your two Main 30amp Fuses.

Do the same for the three legged Clutch diode, cleaning its contacts, and lightly shine up the Diode Legs with very fine emery paper or similar, and also a coating of Ox-Gard on its legs before re-inserting.

 

As for your instrument LCD. Most definelty the two main connectors making pressure contact to the PCB are a cause for the LCD to go blank(not the only cause!), as they can develop high resistance contacts. Again a good clean of both PCB copper contacts and the connector contacts then a light coating of Ox-Gard will help greatly. Do this then reassess the LCD situation.

Good Luck.

 

dash.jpg

conn.jpg

OX-100B_PKG_01.jpg

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I had my last VFR start to reset the clock when I started it hot. It just needed a new battery. For less than $100 it is a cheap thing to swap out if you've not already done so.

 

Cleaning the fuses and diodes is a sound strategy too. Thanks to Grum's help, I figured out that my occasional hot-start problem on my ST1300 was a dirty diode connection. Who'd a thunk that?

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If I might add, do not neglect the ground side of things.... the spider connector taped into the wire harness, left side, and the grounding screw on the right side frame.

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