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bmart

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Everything posted by bmart

  1. My sarcasm never seems to come through. If you can type notes here, Try typing similar in Google. 🙂
  2. It is a highly personal decision. It isn't a sport bike, but I've had mine at many track days and it does just fine. As you likely know, much of that is down to the rider. Comparing specs, IMHO, isn't going to be worth much either, as you can change so much, from power to ergonomics, and even weight if you really wanted to. I'm comfy running around on mine, two up, full knee down mode, and it never hiccups or complains, and that's on sport touring rubber. What else have you ridden, on track and off?
  3. You may be leaning on the right bar harder, creating countersteering, and steering right.
  4. Absolutely. The other ways all suck. lol Completely unrelated is this tire, which developed a slight leak on Wednesday while I was riding the CB-1... I really needed the '00 to work well yesterday in the mountains!
  5. to this day, it is the only bike I've slid both wheels on while going round a fast speed turn.
  6. If I had the money and space... https://charlotte.craigslist.org/mcy/d/clermont-1988-yamaha-fzr1000/7726358462.html
  7. In my business we call VTEC on a bike a solution without a problem. You guys can have and love them, but I'm sticking with VFR tradition. lol
  8. I have now gotten a few local rides and 165 miles in the mountains on it. It is like a different bike. Completely rideable with just a few little niggles I'll probably get to eventually. I'm embarrassed at the time wasted (yours and mine) by looking at shock length and sag but not ride height. I should know better, despite the "same" model...
  9. I have very little to add. My 5th gen is superb, as was the 5th gen before it. The 6th gen I rented nearly got thrown in the ocean the VTEC was so bad. In my mind, there's no comparison.
  10. Where have you looked...or do you want us to do that for you?
  11. I really need to get my spare wheels painted white. Maybe this will be the year. They look so good against the yellow.
  12. That sucks. It might be worth making something to go under the stand that makes it flat/level, then just lever it onto the center from side stand securely...then up!
  13. Sorry to hear about this. Is the surface in the garage uneven?
  14. I have this strong desire to mess with the lock nut. Is this a don't cross the streams kind of thing? 🙂
  15. Because something else is different, even if they eventually ended up at the same p/ns. I don't like it. I've been chasing my tail. But I'm set now with a direction and have made it most of the way to the destination. Hopefully worth the effort. All things being equal...I'd still rather have Thermosman forks!
  16. I'll try! Measuring ride height (not sag) should have happened early, but it didn't. I had no idea to even think that it would be different. This falls on me. Big fat fail. Once that critical step was skipped, it was a rabbit hole. Currently, rear ride height is 4.5mm higher than VFR98. I may address that when my 27mm open end wrench comes. It is a PITA with a giant adjustable. I was after 330mm long shock when I should have been on ride height. I am adjusting it shorter to get what I want. I expected ~4mm actual ride height change from 1mm of shock length change. that was WAY off from my CB-1 info. It is nearly 1:1, it seems. I adjust only 1.5mm so I got ~2mm at the rear. It was enough to get past the crappy feel of having it TOO high. Measuring the two OEM shocks. I've done that. both 325mm. It seems that the '00 must allow for only 1-3mm, not 5mm that the '98 allows...and works best at. You are correct. Goal is to set the same ride height, which I will done when I have the 27mm wrench, to avoid complete shock removal. Ignoring ride height and focusing on sag and shock length was a big failure on my part. I just wish someone who has been through this chimed in in the last year or so...It would have saved me a lot of time and money. It truly wasn't bad to ride today. I want to get some miles in before making any changes. It was truly sucky before this. As you know...enough to sell it. Never give up! One never knows how close they are to a solution! 🙂
  17. While there is little or no room between the cat and the shock mount...it isn't keeping it from moving more. The plates seem to be the limiter. I could be wrong. Yellow shock is 327-328 mm now. I did get out for a ride today after the adjustments mentioned in prior posts. I also set the shock compression damping (high and low) to 10 out (recommended) from 9 out (my test). It still isn't quite like red, but it is miles better. Front sag is 26/34. Rear sag is 10/30. More than adequate. (Red is 26/33 front and ~31mm rider sag on the shock.) For now, D-U-N done. Hoping I can dig it by the rally.
  18. Keep in mind how I got into this mess. Hate red, in general, on anything. VFRs are mostly red...so my tag is UGLYRED. I mean my hatred. lol An ex-riding buddy sent me the link to an available yellow. I planned to just swap bodywork and get on with life. Then I thought I'd swap my nice goodies onto old yeller with far fewer miles and keep only that. Then I decided I maybe would keep both and started setting up the yellow bike. I wanted it the same as the red bike as that is sublime to ride, but...found parts that had small differences, and they've added up. Sargent seat on red got reformed to my specs for $80 from Sargent a few years back. I tried to send them yellow (came from a lovely lister) for the identical treatment but they wanted over $300 + S&H both ways...so it isn't as comfy and my body isn't angled the same as red. I couldn't find Helibars, so I bought Belarus bar risers (and found Helis later...they're still in the box). They're lovely items, but the angle is quite different and they don't allow the levers to tilt down to the proper angle. My joints are starting to complain now... If I was going to keep it, it needed suspenders bigtime. From the aftermarket, the shocks shown are the same. I cheaped out on a new Bitubo and wish I hadn't. I'm pining for another Penske... Similar story on the forks. I should have sent them to Thermosman but instead tried a friend's guy who was more local. Thermosman set up my forks as a one off and they are superb. The yellow ones have a kit in them and they're better than stock...but it took ~5 trips 90 minutes away each to keep bringing them back to "fix" what was done to them. Riding it isn't bad, but it is nothing like red. I keep taking small bites to get it close enough, but that isn't free on time or money and at some point, I'll accept my fate with it or get rid of it. For the cam in the back, they're both set up the same now, with a clockwise change loosening the chain. I have been looking for "why" they're different, just to understand. I've now moved onto getting it set up well enough or not. Life is going by. To paraphrase Jean Luc, a day comes when you realize there are far fewer days ahead than behind.
  19. ha ha! I think that this forum, and others, seem like our "babies." A lot of time goes into them from frequent posters with many more single time visitors (not you) barking about the completeness and timeliness of free answers. It isn't...equal in that regard. I get a lot from this site, so I try to give a lot...and like most of us, don't take offense if at all possible. People are what they are...when they are. You never know what is going on in someone's life or in their day. 🙂
  20. Thanks for the input, guys. Here's where I'm at. 330mm was nearly impossible to get in. I may have backed off 1/2 mm but it took force to get the plates/bolts in. Changing the length of the shock will allow easier install in that regard, but does not change the lack of clearance to the cat, for instance, as all of that is driven by the plates...unless the cat is moved/lowered. The bike had ~3k miles on it, so unless it was a visually perfect repair, I think everything was factory when I bought it. It was an "I know what I got" seller...but he owned Harley's, so I expected that! Because at 330mm (same a '98) the aSS end is way up there, part(s) have to be different. I have no way to easily compare them without removing them from both bikes, so I took the tack of p/n research. Some p/ns had changed, but the same ones (for parts listed in prior posts-singarm, frame, linkage, dogbone, centerstand, etc.) fit both bikes outside of the actual shock p/n which is different. I can't know beyond that unless someone else posts some info about theirs...and I heard only crickets. I suspect that the area where the top of the shock mounts to extends slightly further down on the '00. that would cause trouble getting the 330mm shock in and raise everything...but I'm making that up. There are quite a few parts that could have changed to cause this symptom. So...I sucked it up and got my Captain big boy pants on and shortened the shock 1.5 turns, so 1.5 mm, which turned into a no weight (on centerstand) measurement change of 2-3 mm. I expected more or I would have shortened the shock more. (CB-1 is 3-4 mm per 1mm change in shock length, for reference.) Again...I wish folks that know would chime in. I may have to do that one more time, but I'm going to ride it as is (and set warm sag properly) and see what happens. Stay tuned or tune out. It's up to you. 🙂 1998 at 330mm. Plenty of room and easy to install. 2000 problem with clearance, Clarence
  21. I'm not gaslighting you, whatever that is. I'm not hip. ~330mm is (jammed) in there, but the ass end is WAY up in the air. If it wasn't jammed...the ass end is still way in the air. Whatever the swingarm hits is irrelevant. Make sense?
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