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Tightwad

Fan Control - Choose To Turn Fan On Or Off Or Allow The Bike To Control

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Under my point of view, when the bike is above 25 mph, the fan working in reverse mode is more eficience than stoped or rotating as series.

On other way, I worry for thurst bearing in the fan working with reverse forces also

Vssss

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+1 the fan does not draw that much current and I like your idea.

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There's no davantage to turning a fan on earlier than it would be turned on by the stock temp. switch, and there's absolutely no advantage to turning it off before the temp. switch would. It does not use any more power than the bike can easily supply. Cooling fans on every vehicle, moto or auto, have been controlled by thermal switches with near 100% reliability.

Self powered makes no sense, the bike battery is perfectly capable of operating the fan under all circumstances. If your battery is incapable of operating the fan then it's likely the bike is not running, or is about to stop running.

This would seem to be a verry complicated way of doing something that is already done with perfect simplicity.

This guy has never driven a vfr,

Fan on early in traffic is the only thing I'm after but too lazy to sort it at the moment...

On the power draw - the VFR uses a shunt reg, the alternator runs full tilt all the time and excess power is drawn off by the RR as heat - running more farkles is beneficial to the system as it reduces the load on the RR...

this guy knows what he's talking about. thumbs up buddy.

I did this as a DIY mod last year, but not for power draw issues. I used a single pole, double throw switch and wired it in with the thermo switch. I use it to get ahead of the temperature curve and keep the engine from building as much heat when I know I'm going to be idling or riding very slowly. Then when I get going I can switch it off a while and then when things stabilize switch it back to normal mode. If I do get in to the 230+ degree range, as soon as I get moving at 30 to 35 mph I switch the fan off and the temp comes down more rapidly without the fan fighting the airflow. I had purchased a VTR fan blade to make that swap, but having installed this switch I'm not sure I will - this works very well - better than I expected. Since I installed this I've had no temperature issues at all.

What was suggested in the OP, an indicator light, would be very helpful. I tried to source a waterproof rocker switch that was illuminated, but couldn't fine one small enough to fit on my 6th gen where I wanted it. I'm accustomed to keeping up on switch configs, but on one occasion I forgot what "mode" it was in, and some sort of indicator, maybe a red and green LED (red = "no fan" and green = "fan operating" or similar) on the cockpit panel or something would be quite helpful. I positioned the switch on the left inner upper cowl panel next to the tank - though that's where the front ABS pump resides on a 6th gen, and getting a switch in there was tight. For non-ABS bikes there would be plenty of room in that location.

You are good where you are at. I tried the vtr fan blade and while it works great if you are moving at 25 mph or more, it is incappable of cooling the bike off while stuck in traffic. blowing hot, stagnant, engine compartment air across the radiator will not drop temps.

I did this as a DIY mod last year, but not for power draw issues. I used a single pole, double throw switch and wired it in with the thermo switch. I use it to get ahead of the temperature curve and keep the engine from building as much heat when I know I'm going to be idling or riding very slowly. Then when I get going I can switch it off a while and then when things stabilize switch it back to normal mode. If I do get in to the 230+ degree range, as soon as I get moving at 30 to 35 mph I switch the fan off and the temp comes down more rapidly without the fan fighting the airflow. I had purchased a VTR fan blade to make that swap, but having installed this switch I'm not sure I will - this works very well - better than I expected. Since I installed this I've had no temperature issues at all.

What was suggested in the OP, an indicator light, would be very helpful. I tried to source a waterproof rocker switch that was illuminated, but couldn't fine one small enough to fit on my 6th gen where I wanted it. I'm accustomed to keeping up on switch configs, but on one occasion I forgot what "mode" it was in, and some sort of indicator, maybe a red and green LED (red = "no fan" and green = "fan operating" or similar) on the cockpit panel or something would be quite helpful. I positioned the switch on the left inner upper cowl panel next to the tank - though that's where the front ABS pump resides on a 6th gen, and getting a switch in there was tight. For non-ABS bikes there would be plenty of room in that location.

I did a similar if not the same mod to mine so I can turn it on early sitting in traffic. The hotter she gets the hotter everything else gets (frame etc) and makes it take waaaaaaaay longer to cool back down. I don't really see the point in being able to turn it off, that sounds like a recipie for over cooking engines when you inevitable forget you turned it off or bumped the switch without knowing. An indicator of some sort would be nice to know when you have the switch turned on but I didn't see the need and just used a simple switch I had laying around that would handle 30A (maybe 20A, don't remember now, I figured if it got hot I needed a better switch, no issues so far).

To shorten up this statement a bit, I think a Tightwad fan override kit would be a good addition to your current arsenal of VFR farkles and sell well as much as VFR's run hotter than the sun!

You need to be able to cut the fan off for when you pull on the highway. If your fan is running and you're moving at 70 mph, your bike will heat up, as the fan is fighting the incoming forward airflow.

My "mental failure mode" with this wasn't by leaving it off, but rather by leaving it on. I was running along at 70 mph and the temp kept hanging around 220 and wouldn't come down. Climbing hills it headed toward 230 and I was thinking 'WTF is going wrong . . . am I having a thermostat failure?? I'm going more than fast enough to cool this thing off." Then it suddenly hit me - I had left the fan running. :blush: No need to call me an idiot - I spent the next few hours doing that over and over. :laugh: It just took once though to teach me my lesson.

+1 I would have to have a idiot light to remind me its ON ...

I usually just reach down an feel if its sucking or blowing. Easy with summer gloves, but with winter gloves on I have to rely on my voltage gauge.

At highway speeds I will be running 14.1 volts fan off and 14.0 volts fan on. The fan barely draws any power once its running, but you can see a decent voltage drop as it spools up, thats usually how I check whether its on or off if I am stumped.

Really?

Leaving the fan on will block airflow that much?

Find that hard to believe.

Yes its true

Tightwad can we get a switch to reverse the fan direction for when we're moving 25 mph and up, and normal direction below 25 mph.

I will be the first to buy that.

As noted reversing the motor has limited effect and can be a bit odd if you do it while the fan is running. I wasn't even sure the motor COULD run backwards...never tried it.

There are plenty of purely hardware ways to do most of this. For those that don't need/want it there is no reason. People who have heat related issues have and will try anything...and eventually they figure out the right combo.

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When I shut down a hot (218+) motor, I turn the ignition back on so the fan continues to run with the bike shut down. This circulates air through the radiator; when the fan stops after what seems like a set time (I've never timed it), then I restart the bike and rev it gently to get the water pump involved. This takes the cooler air from the radiator and circulates it through the engine. The temp, which was rising after the motor is shut down with the fan back on, usually drops 5 - 20 degrees in a few seconds. Then when I shut down the final time I do not worry about the heat remaining in the engine.

I do not know if this benefits the engine long term but it does make me feel better.

If a switch could make this process easier then I'd be willing to buy one. My engine seems prone to running hot.

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i personally think this is an useless idea. at least i believe that the way the thermoswitch works is the way it is supposed to work. i ride on trafic and i see no point of leaving the fan ON since the bike shuts it off when there is no need for it turns it on again when you need.

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A conmutator to change fan rotation direction with led indicator (thanks to holleros)

wwXA7.jpg

Holleros isn't here!!

:unsure::unsure::unsure::unsure::unsure:

Is he??

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A conmutator to change fan rotation direction with led indicator (thanks to holleros)

wwXA7.jpg

The power/current draw will fry up your switch. Not sure how much is the amperage of the blower's motor but for sure the switch from the picture won't last for long. Not to mention that the blade-s made to have better efficiency in one direction only.

Variable rot/min don't thing is an efficient idea.

My thought is on lower set temp for the temp switch, manual override for on position and, if so much like, a VTR blade.

I'm not so sure the switch won't last. One thing is for sure though, there is absolutely no point in reversing the stock fan's rotational direction, it will be very ineffecient.

Gentlemen, let's all keep in mind that several folk from this forum have already performed many experiments in a very thorough manner.

Swapping the thermoswitch out for one with a lower trigger temp has been tried and tested. The only thing one achieves with this mod is having the fan come on much more often, and this puts the electrical system under load, despite all the comments about it being an advantage running devices that use up the power the stator puts out in order to save the R/R from having to shunt it off to the frame... in theory it sounds good but I quick reminder to folks that the VTEC is famous for having a rather delicate wiring harness and many folks have seen how turning on the highbeams has fried their bike's electrical installation. Even if it is truly an advantage and does provide respite to the R/R, the problem isn't whether the fan comes on or not, it's being able to control WHEN it comes on, according to the conditions: slow traffic, traffic jams, lots of red lights, as when the bike has already heated up and the fan cycled 5 or 6 times, it has been demonstrated that it then becomes much more difficult for the fan to lower the temperature... it gets to a point where the fan is rendered useless (the temp no longer drops)... especially in hot climates like southern Spain or southern US.

The fan is also rendered useless once the bike is in forward motion. I have confirmed this time and time again on both my 5th gen and 6th gen. Above 25 km/h (approx), the two opposing flows cancel out. Nill effectiveness. Reversing the fan's direction will not help, if it doesn't match the natural airlfow it will only hinder the latter (at higher speeds... at lower speeds it does improve the cooling effect). It is far more effective to have the fan shut down.

Obvoiusly there is a danger to leaving the fan off. A timer or some other variable that would automatically revert the fan to normal OEM functioning would be ideal... in the absence of that, an idiot light would also be advisable.

So there is an advantage to being able to control the fan on demand, both forcing it on when off and forcing it off when on as previous posters have explained. Tightwad's idea is most excellent... especially the idea of the device advising the rider that the bike's OEM installation would prefer the fan were on, and also some sort of failproof function that reverts a manual override (off when on) after either a specified period of time or some other sort of parameter like a higher, more critical temp...

Obviously it is a perfectly attainable project...

I have personally swapped the OEM fan blade out for the VTR one which creates an airflow in the opposite direction, which favours the natural incoming airflow when the bike is in motion... up to a certain speed... once up at over 80 km/h, it's better to just have the fan turn off. On the other hand, with the bike at a standstill, it is hardly effective at all... if the weather is warm to hot, it works for maybe 2 cycles and then the temp just climbs ever so slowly. The fan never turns off... I don't know about the shunting business but my VFR has burnt out TWO stators so far.

Hopefully Josh will have one free hand someday and get this project up off the ground... I reckon it'll sell.

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How do I add a simple 2 wire switch to be able to turn the fan on when I want and also work like it normally would?

Do I jump the wires from the etc in line with my switch. The fan switch on the rad is a single wire, On honda cars the single wire isf or the guage. Thanks.

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One wire from the fan goes to the harness, this is your positive wire. The other wire goes to the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor body is grounded to chassis (-); so when the temperature hits the setpoint, the circuit is completed. Place a simple 2 wire switch in parallel with the temp sensor. This will allow you turn the switch on when you like or allow the temp sensor to do it for you. Make sure you use a switch that is rated for the current.

+ -------Fan-----------TS----------Ground

|____Switch____Ground

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How do I add a simple 2 wire switch to be able to turn the fan on when I want and also work like it normally would?

Do I jump the wires from the etc in line with my switch. The fan switch on the rad is a single wire, On honda cars the single wire isf or the guage. Thanks.

Personally I like the option of an "On Off On" (single pole, dual throw) switch which allows me to also force the fan off in addition to forcing it on, That way when I get moving I can turn the fan off and not fight the airflow which cools things off quicker. There is the danger though of forgetting to turn it back on - sitting at a stop watching the temp climb. But there's equal danger in forgetting to turn it back to normal operation too - running down the road at 70 with the fan forced on - see my earlier post above. (DOH!). Either way requires situational awareness and management of the fan. Not a big deal once you get used to it.

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I believe tightwad is perfectly capable of including a timer feature which reverts back to OEM functioning after a period of time and/or idiot lights for those easily distracted or forgetful types.

I'm sure several options from simple manual off override to more complex manual off and on override options, even as coderighter has done with a speed based revert-to-OEM function..

The facts are facts.

The fan airflow hampers natural flow at speeds above 25 km/h. City traffic will see your VTEC and 5th gen VFRs overheating and the fan putting the already delicate charging system and wiring harness under unnecessary extra load. Then when finally out on highways or mountain roads, the fan is on and the temp doesn't drop and the fan's motor suffers as does the bike's.

VTECs fry stators like marshmallows at summer camp. This is heat related as demonstrated in another thread around here somewhere. Also related to shoddy wiring... All the more reason to avoid the fan running longer than it should and in hot humid climates it does.. A foolproof manual override is the ticket.

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The advantage of turning the fan off is so the stupid thing isn't fighting against the air flow when you're at highway speeds and just keeps the engine from cooling down. Stupid that they didnt tie the fan into the speed sensor. I've had to pull off the highway several times to let the fan finally turn off so the engine could get back to normal temps.

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-oh for gods sake!! i did this crap on my 86 IN 86.. sheesh!!

its simple and not worth 4 pages :mellow:

IMG_20140404_004922_zps1726002b.jpg

the thermo opens a connection to the ground.. thats it.

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Well this one runs & runs every few months ;) Honda messed up when they put the side rads on, as they can trap stones between the rad & the fan. The fan is normally on the back of the rad, but they didn't leave room & had to fit it to the front. THAT is the ONLY reason the fan sucks from the outside of the bike.

The major problem with that is the lack of a fan on the right rad. So hot air get put into the fairing void, cooking the engine & the right rad does nothing at all to cool the engine.

I tried the vtr fan blade and while it works great if you are moving at 25 mph or more, it is incappable of cooling the bike off while stuck in traffic. blowing hot, stagnant, engine compartment air across the radiator will not drop temps.

Again that is because the right rad does nothing & now drawing air through the left rad the correct way, actually sucks air through the right rad into the void & this hot air gets pulled through the left rad, achieving nothing.

So the best solution, is two fold, one swap the VFR fan blade for a VTR one & fit a large stone grill over the back of the fan motor support frame, this is what Honda should have done. On the VTR they left a large gap between the blade & the rad, this deals with most road sized debris, but reduces the fans effectiveness. On the VFR the blade is too close to the rad, so a grill is required to keep any large debris out, to stops the fan blade using it to destroy the rad fins ! YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

So I have the following on mine, VTR fan blade + grill. Right rad fan added, this being a very high flow PC cooling fan fitted on the inside of the rad front half with a protective stone grill, but you could use some of the new slimline fans from CBR's but they are all puller fans so should fit on the outside of the rad. I also have a lower temp fan switch fitted in place of the standard one in the left rad. This works perfectly & turns on the fans early before the bike gets silly hot & thus the fans have an easier time cooling the engine.

Last summer we had 32c (90f) air temps in the UK, which is unusual & my bike never got hot once, even when stuck in traffic with local air temps over the tarmac of over 100f. The joy is by pumping air through both rads, they suck cool air in from in front of the bike & out both sides.

I also have an electric water pump, which circulates the coolant at a constant rate, where a mechanical pump is really needed is when its pumping the least & the rest of the time it over pumps. I can turn off the engine when I stop & leave the ignition on & the water pump does its job & the fans work if needed.

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If you live in hot climate you should investigate SPAL fans. They come in many sizes in both rotations. Very common mod in RVT world to help with nut roasting. Most change to "pusher" version. These things move air. As for manual overrides, fighting heat early in traffic is a big help.

Edited by TNRC51

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Whelp, for many months now, I've been running a 95/85 thermoswitch (on at 95 degrees Centigrade, off at 85), instead of the standard 106/96 one. It works well. And for a longer period of time, I've run a manual override switch (only on by shorting to ground, rather than one that can also disable the fan). The latter works well, but is rendered almost redundant by the lower temperature thermoswitch. If it wasn't that most of my riding was commuting in traffic, I wouldn't bother with any mods.

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Use a front mount rad.

The TLR 1000 rad I'm using on my 5th gen works a treat. Still using the original Vfr fan switch, and it's all good.

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-oh for gods sake!! i did this crap on my 86 IN 86.. sheesh!!

its simple and not worth 4 pages :mellow:

IMG_20140404_004922_zps1726002b.jpg

the thermo opens a connection to the ground.. thats it.

I hope you didn't do it exactly like you've drawn up there ^.

If you did, you limited yourself to the current that poor little light bulb can handle when the switch is on for manual operation... and that probably isn't enough to run the fan. Also, if the light bulb burns out your fan will not be working when the switch is thrown.

Probably best to continue the conversation.

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Whelp, for many months now, I've been running a 95/85 thermoswitch (on at 95 degrees Centigrade, off at 85), instead of the standard 106/96 one. It works well. And for a longer period of time, I've run a manual override switch (only on by shorting to ground, rather than one that can also disable the fan). The latter works well, but is rendered almost redundant by the lower temperature thermoswitch. If it wasn't that most of my riding was commuting in traffic, I wouldn't bother with any mods.

I'm interested in doing this. Can you provide any info such as a part # or application for the thermoswitch & explain/show how you wired the manual override switch?

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-oh for gods sake!! i did this crap on my 86 IN 86.. sheesh!!

its simple and not worth 4 pages :mellow:

IMG_20140404_004922_zps1726002b.jpg

the thermo opens a connection to the ground.. thats it.

I hope you didn't do it exactly like you've drawn up there ^.

If you did, you limited yourself to the current that poor little light bulb can handle when the switch is on for manual operation... and that probably isn't enough to run the fan. Also, if the light bulb burns out your fan will not be working when the switch is thrown.

Probably best to continue the conversation.

You are indeed right.. i had a switch with a built in light.. my pal used my the above drawing with an led light.. his fan went full speed.

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More about those spal fans please

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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