CandyRedRC46

I put a two brothers header on my 6th gen and I didn't have any of those issues.

Whelp, so far I have opened up the two factory swing arm holes and bought some grommets. Then I tied string to the factory brake line, pulled the brake line out and string through the tail and then pulled the string through the swing arm. Next I am going to need to get the grommets in the swing arm and ss line through. Then I will need to cut the ss line, attach the banjo fittings and finally reassemble everything. It will get done eventually, I just don't have time like I used to.

Mohawk's motad vs two brothers header dyno.

You won't NEED a new tune, but your current tune could probably benefit from some adjustments.

I believe what I did was: Remove factory narrow bands. Installed o2 eminators on the honda harness Loop the o2 sensor connections on the Rapid bike harness. Definitely don't throw your factory o2 sensors away, just in case that doesn't work. For the engine brake settings, I based my settings on my AFR readings on the Youtune display. Each gear needs slightly different adjustment, but since we do not have a gear input on the VFR harness, I tried to do the best compromise for each gear. I will have to double check my settings, but I think I had it around 50%, so closed throttle deceleration would stay in the 13-14:1 range. You definitely don't want to get much below 13:1 AFR, as you will be wasting gas and far too rich and you don't want to be much above 14:1, as it will not be effective. You're welcome Stray. Yeah 4 my tuning bikes is great, but a bit excessive. The Rapid Bike Racing ignition maps were created to run on Mid-Premium octane fuel (95 Euro; 91 US). The 5th gen VFR800's ignition mapping is pretty optimized from the factory, so there is not much more ignition advance that can be safely added. If you ran 98, you could maybe add 0.5-1.0 degree of advance on top of the rapid bike base map, but I would only do it while tuning on a dyno, with some means of knock detection and by a professional.

While the 20 year old o2 sensors could be okay or on their way out, they still will not be anywhere close to as accurate as a new Bosch wide band. Though the difference in tuning a lightly modded vfr could be negligible, so its your call (but it seems like you have already made your decision). A wide band o2 sensor will tune faster and more accurately than the factory narrow bands, at all throttle and rpm positions (Not just large throttle openings). I guess you go this idea from how the Honda ECU only uses the factory narrow band o2 sensors at light/steady throttle, but this is irrelevant, as the narrow bands are disabled to the honda ecu when the Rapid bike is added (Rapid bike will take information from narrow bands at all ranges for tuning its own mapping, but send a steady signal to the honda ecu, so the honda ecu stays in open loop while the rapid bike stays in closed loop. This happens whether using factory narrow the band o2 sensors or the my tuning wide band kit.) I do understand the gain per dollar argument and just installing a Rapid Bike Evo with no other options or dyno tuning required is attractive and definitely doable on +2000 VFR800's, I am just giving you my opinion on what I would do.... It may say this on their website, but this is false. I threw away my factory narrow band o2 sensors almost 9 years ago and I am using the Rapid Bike Racing module plus My tuning bike wide band o2 sensors with great success. This is also false, for reasons that I listed above. (my 2007 vfr800 is running great with no narrow bands and the rapid bike wide bands). Yes this is a good idea. A single wide band o2 sensor in the collector with the My Tuning kit. You definitely do not NEED separate front and back wide band o2 sensors (literally every single VFR800 that has been dyno tuned, has been tuned with a single wide band down the collector), though you are certainly right, 2 wide bands would be more ideal than one wide band and furthermore, 4 wide band o2 sensors will be more ideal than 2 (I am actually currently using 4 my tuning kits for individual cylinder mapping and it is phenomenal). Definitely debatable, as everyone's idea of bang for the buck is different, though if you do go the narrow band route, please buy new oem from Honda and not mystery used ebay o2 sensors. The ignition advance varies. On the Rapid Bike supplied 5th gen ignition map you will see 3 degrees at low throttle/rpms, 2 degrees at medium throttle/rpms and 1 degree at higher throttle and rpms. Honda just did not leave as much on the table on the 5th gens as they did with the 6th gens (which will take 5 degrees advance through the entire low-midrange). No. The Rapid bike will only accept the factory narrow bands directly or the Bosch wide bands with a my tuning bike module. Rapid Bike Racing and Power Commander are in totally different classes. Not much of a comparison, but for you 5th gen users, yes the RB Evo and PC are a better bang for the buck and if the buyer is not interested in traction control, launch control, engine braking adjust-ability, closed loop fuel tuning, on the fly fuel trim adjustments etc, the PC would be more cost efficient. This is a totally different story on the 6th gens (maybe 8th gen as well), where the race module's added ignition advance totally transforms the bike, with much stronger 2500-8000 rpm torque and throttle response. Cimaj was talking about blocking off the pair valves that inject air into the exhaust ports, as they dilute the exhaust gas and can give an inaccurate AFR reading. I have used the Engine Brake feature and it works phenomenally, it really smooths out the on/off throttle transition, where Honda was actually shutting off the fueling for emissions compliance (most prominent in the top three gears above 5000 rpms).

I would be more concerned about tuning with 16-18 year old o2 sensors, than the 2 vs 1 argument. If it were me, I would shell out a few bucks for the single wide band o2 sensor and ditch the original 2 narrow bands.

Yeah it would need updated firmware as well as mapping, not just mapping alone, so that would probably be best left to the authorized dealers.

My 6th gen has been down for a while. My rear hub bearings failed and I was on the fence forever, trying to decide on whether to do a Ducati hub swap or rebuild the original. Eventually I rebuilt the original hub and cush drive, got halfway into installing it and then decided to tuck the brake line into the swing arm. Long story short, the ss line and banjos came in last week, so hopefully I can find some time to get everything assembled and back on the road shortly.

I think it would work, but they would have to promise/ ensure higher quality, actual performance merges and provide a legit dyno before/after. Also they could not ask more than a $100 over their standard header, any more than that for an ebay brand header, would be ridiculous.

-_- man I am pissed that I invested so much time and money in the vfr stuff, thinking that this kit wasn't going to come together and sure enough, right as I am getting reading to put it back together, the kit is for sale.

Of course: http://sprocketcenter.com/street-sprocket-applications/honda/vfr-800-2002-2014.html

Very cool!

Great, I am just now finishing rebuilding the VFR hub....

As much as I am not a fan of ebay headers, that would be a great option.

That has to be one of the most poorly designed collectors I have ever seen in my life. Why are people still buying these things?

Thats pretty cool!

I have seen a few R1 front end swap with cbr929 triples, mine included, but I have never seen a VFR with R1 forks and triple trees.

Though lacking that sweet brembo emblem, the Yamaha calipers are phenomenal.

I think you are exaggerating the spacer "mess", while severely down playing critical specs like fork length/bearing sizing/steering stem length/ride height/fork spacing/offset/rake/trail/etc. There is a reason most people stick with the tried and true cbr929 upper and cbr929 or rc51 sp1 lower triple trees.

So you would rather piece together something on the steering stem/bearings, than add disc and axle spacers?

Aren't you just going to use the typical CBR929 upper and RC51 Lower triple trees?

These aren't Honda or Yamaha RR's. All the OEM RR's are made by Shidengen. That particular rr that you installed is the FH011aa. It was a great rr and typical VFR modification 10 or 15 years ago, but there are much better and newer offerings these days. No need to hunt down a 14 year old Yamaha R1 rr. Like everyone has said a few times, just get a new Shindengen RR from roadstercycle. Either the FH020aa or the SH847 will be fine for many many years.

That is a very cool engine stand. Glad to see someone put an otherwise bad frame to use.

Man that AFR is all over the place.