Arri

Larrau, France Pyrénées

For warm places, as spain, VW recomended 42% of G12

You can be the first one trying Suzuki V-strom 1000 R/R Shindengen SH847AA Ref. Suzuki: 32800-31J00 (142 dólares) http://www.shspowersports.com/fiche_select.asp?mfg=Suzuki&partnumber=32800-31J00 I think is the best option right now

I like it too

I think so...

Beautiful!!!

I have one that has about 22,000 miles on it. Ordered it from Polaris dealer $60 .So far it has been ok. Did you reduce your electrical OEM power? Vvss

Reducing bike electric power requirements, Has anyone tried Shindengen SH775? Vvss

Wellcome and beautiful work!!! Seff made rear shock? Uaauu Waiting the progres

The people who more time use the VTEC region (above 7000 rpm) is who more BBQs celebrates . I.e.: people who ride a lot on track, fast in the road, etc: Auspañol , Kepa , Valen, etc. . People who ride calmly with motorcycle breaks less: el_Jau , me, etc. . This is statistical , but why ? The alternator is heated by two phenomena : 1 - . The copper losses , which depend on the intensity of the current supplied (Amperes) . 2 - . The iron losses, that are frequency dependent and this increases with rpm. I've taken some electrical measurements on the yellow wires from the output of the stator. This is the current flowing in said wires to different rpm ( = copper losses ) : Rpm -> E ( V ) -> I ( A) 1200 -> 12.7 -> 20 5000 - > 10 -> 30 7000 -> 10.2 -> 31 This is the frequency of the voltage and current generated by the 12 poles alternator at different rpm ( = the iron losses) rpm -> f (Hz ) 1200 -> 120 5000 -> 500 7000 -> 700 Nothing new: more rpm -> more heat that we have to evacuate of the alternator. The proposals that have been done here are very interesting. We'll see how they work. My new proposal to use "shunt regulator" is as follows : 1 - To Reduce power consumption 1/3 by using LED. 2 - To Use a battery of 14 Ah . 3 - To Install a monitoring system to measure and control, in real time onboard, the state of charge (SOC) of the battery: How about Arduino microcontrollers? 4 - The control system will disconnect the alternator from 100% to 60% of the SOC. The bike will run only with battery. This will allow the cooling of the windings in the stator: we will not have copper losses. 6 - When the SOC = 60 % , connect, with a relay, the alternator and charge the battery and feed the rest of the bike systems . The idea would be just to use the alternator at intervals and not all the time. To see who dares to develop Vss

Thanks for the info!! Now, for me is working. In the video, the lamp on the right represents the battery and its voltage is measured by the yellow tester. The lamp on the left is in series with the voltage source. When the battery voltage exceeds 15.2 V (approx), thyristors are closed, the entrance to the r / r is short-circuited, the left lamp turns on and the right one turns off (the battery dont gets power form the alternator).

Nice "totum revolutum" ;)

A video to expalin.... http://youtu.be/5jzyFazRnCE

It's off a 3rd gen. Not sure if OEM but it is definitely off a 3rd gen as I personally know the bike/owner. Thanks Auspi for the correction. It is RC36-1. I need more practice with generation list. Sorry.

H I do not know if it is oem for 4th gen but fix in its the connector. The reference is sh638-12 You're right, this test of r / r does not eliminate in the motorcycle test. The idea is to establish a method that allows us to establish the state of the r / r. Is more Theoretecal than practical isue. Just to Understand how r/r works.