badelman

Can't wait for this to happen! Keep up the good work gang!

Ok seriously! After riding and syncing new table to primary twice... My front tire comes off the ground (bobbles.. I can feel it) like on my old 600 Hurricane during full acceleration in 1st gear. And.. I am only using Rapid module suggested settings.. I have not done ANY crazy tweaking. In addition, she's smooth pulling like butter on steroids! That's what I'm talking about!! This device is successful in my mind. I have no other mods (not even chain/sprocket mod) yet although I'm about to get the Pipercross (already ordered from UK). P.S. Yaman is on point and those guys have the best customer service around..

HS, great write up! Question, it looks like the manual advises some sort of chemical flush. I noticed you're using only the distilled water. Have you had bad luck with chemical flushes or feel it is unnecessary or too harsh? Thanks!

Ordered!! Except I got the upgrade/newest that uses Samsung 5630 chips at $16.99 for the pair USD. They make an even brighter pair but it is much larger and I'm worried that it may not fit. I'll let you know!

Blowing LED's sounds awful. Anyone know what specific 7443 bulb works for turn signals? I thought they all did. What 2 types are there? Which one to avoid? Is this vendor full of it or what??

I believe so.. check out the "glowing" review at this post here

Skids, Did you order from UK Fleabay or Superbrightleds.com? I'm looking at: Superbrightled's // Recommended in this forum but older LED technology // only 220 lumen and got to be better than this in 2015 Putco // Recommended in this forum // But can't find many specs so called them... manufacturer says 85 lumen.. well shoot! DT Auto Tech // Recommended in this forum // A CREE bulb: newer technology LED // says high power 25 watt and 360 degree Autolumination // Bad customer service is all over the internet .. Spec wise: have spoken with the owner: says at 12v bright like a 70 watt bulb at only 8-9 watts used // A CREE bulb but no lumen stats I'm leaning toward the DT Auto Tech's at this point. Post here: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/78803-new-red-led-tail-lights-ya-gotta-be-blind-not-to-see-me-stopping/?hl=%20led%20%20tail%20%20light The Autolumination's seem to good to be true and are almost $30USD each. Here is the post about that one http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/78803-new-red-led-tail-lights-ya-gotta-be-blind-not-to-see-me-stopping/?hl=%20led%20%20tail%20%20light I am breaking myself into LED's slowly by going after the brake/tail light first. After that THEN I'll deal with flashers for turn signals. BTW.. I LOVE CREE Technology as I've been using some of their best LED's mapping water caves for years. They are serious about their LED tech.

Sorry - by "cowlectomy" I just meant taking it off. It's not difficult, but is more work than usual for something as simple as swapping bulbs. The issue is not the bulb inside the lens, it's just maneuvering the bulb and socket assembly back into place. You need more clearance between the housing hole and the seat subframe. By moving the cowl and housing away from the subframe (you probably only need an inch more), you can get the bulb and socket back into the hole. You need to remove the seat, grab handles, and the hex head screws I mentioned to pull the cowl back a bit. You have to do the same for swapping cans etc. Thank you Carlitos92!

Switch, I see it but it's really the vid from post #1. I just quoted it as it had the section about the "cowlectomy". The vid just shows how bright the LED bulbs are. I just wanted to get the detail on how to do the cowlectomy to make the bulbs fit. Here is the direct quote: "I tried installing the bulbs yesterday, but found that the fact that the LED unit is about 1/4" longer and not rounded like the glass bulb creates problems with the bottom socket. I futzed with it for about 10 minutes and just could not get it in, so I figured I would have to at least loosen the rear cowl to make some room. I ended up doing the cowlectomy this evening and it takes all of 10 minutes in itself. It's really 8 bolts in two hex sizes. No big deal. I got both LEDs installed and to my eye, they are every bit as bright as the OEM bulbs." Anyone know what needs to be done? I don't get how loosening the cowl allows the new bottom LED bulb to fit. Isn't the housing for the rear tail light/turn signals a single unit? Thanks all!

Carlitos, can you explain the "cowlectomy" in a little more detail? I ask as I am wanting to add the LED bulbs as well.. Is it as easy as loosening the rear cowl, shoving it back and then tightening it back down?? Thanks!

Hey Tightwad... This post is very helpful as I was just looking in the rear to install the modulator I bought at 3rd Brake Flasher trying to find where the front and rear brake switches converge! I could not and turned to our forum. So... Thank you. Also, I currently have mine set up to flash at a very quick rate so I will also back off the speed until I get the LED replacements! I hope your having a great new year, Barry