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Oil Fiter Options For The Honda.


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My Kawasaki ER-6N is a [5] type filter. The kawasaki oem filter uses media like the yamaha filters instead of folded pleats. I'll remind myself to take measurements.

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  • 7 months later...
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Every time this comes up in a post there seems to be great interest so I'll post and Pin this topic for future reference. http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html Motorcycle Oil Filter

For people who have Advance Auto Parts close to them, PL14610 can be had for less than $5. Buy online using 30% off coupon and pick it up from the store. If anyone has any other cheaper suggestion, I

Because there are better choices than the OEM Honda filter for less money. Check the - calsci site.

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I use the same filter on my 1st gen 500 as on my 5th gen, even though he lists a different filter for the 500. I found that the 500 filters offered wouldn't clear my header pipe because the diameter was too big. I believe the 700/750/800 all use the same filter. He lists all gens and makes on his web site.

-Jake

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Anyone using a K&N oil filter on a gen 6 bike? What's the part number? Thanks

their website works great: kn-204

The 303 will fit as well and is about 3/4" longer. If longer length == more media, that's may be worth a shot.

I've used those and Mobil 1 M-110s along with a couple of Purolators. My wife's Maxima (VQ-35) uses the same filter and oil (RTS - T6).

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  • 10 months later...

Don't hate me for asking this but I just got back from Wally world and saw a new fram oil filter. Called ultra it has metal screening wrapped in syn fiber. I know there are a lot of fram haters out there, but I've tried a different one with each change I've done. Yes even a 1st gen Fram. Now I've used fram on my car and trucks and never had an issue. By the way it was 8.97+ tax. Thoughts.

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http://m.fram.com/oil_filters/ultra.html

The standard offering for a fram in a vfr800 is a PH6607

I assume the new "ultra" filter will share the same numerals with perhaps a different alpha prefix or suffix.

Seems similar in construction to the Yamaha filters I've been using. Synthetic solid block media.

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Don't hate me for asking this but I just got back from Wally world and saw a new fram oil filter. Called ultra it has metal screening wrapped in syn fiber. I know there are a lot of fram haters out there, but I've tried a different one with each change I've done. Yes even a 1st gen Fram. Now I've used fram on my car and trucks and never had an issue. By the way it was 8.97+ tax. Thoughts.

Why not use the specified motorcycle Fram filter for your bike, and it's only $6.50.

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Don't hate me for asking this but I just got back from Wally world and saw a new fram oil filter. Called ultra it has metal screening wrapped in syn fiber. I know there are a lot of fram haters out there, but I've tried a different one with each change I've done. Yes even a 1st gen Fram. Now I've used fram on my car and trucks and never had an issue. By the way it was 8.97+ tax. Thoughts.

I use the Fram ultra filter, or the Fram standard, depends if the auto store has it on the shelf. Like Bailey said 4 years ago(!?!), anything will work sufficiently if you replace it at the specified intervals. I've stuck with Fram on my bikes and autos since '89, no blown engines yet.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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A new wrinkle. Purolator has brought a new "synthetic filter" for use with synthetic oil. The part number for the 3.25 inch filter is real similar to the Purolator One, PLS14610. I found out because my local parts store was out of the PL14610, which also fits my 2008 Accord EX (4 cyl). Any thoughts on the technology? I didn't a reason to use or not use the filter as I only use synthetic oil on my 6th gen. Here's the link to the marketing on it. http://www.purolatorautofilters.com/products/oil_filters/Pages/SyntheticOilFilters.aspx

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I'm guessing the new "synthetic" line of oil filters will be priced between Purolator's PureOne and their basic "L" series filters.

I'm assuming the PureOne will still be their premium oil filter since per Purolator's website they're advertising the PureOne filters @ 99.9% filtering efficiency vs. @ just 99% for the new synthetic line of oil filters.

Both should be high-quality products imo.

I plan to continue using PureOne filters in my motorcycles and other vehicles, but would not hesitate to substitute one of the new synthetic oil filters if a PureOne to fit my VFR800FI or ST1100 (PL14610 or PL14612) may not not be in stock.

I wonder if this addition to Purolator's line may lead to price increases for the PureOne oil filters though. :sad:

Hopefully not since I've purchased the PureOnes for ~$6.50, or less.

Edited by smoothsailin
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Purolator Synthetic is 99% efficient @ 25 microns while PureOnes are 99.9% efficient at 20 microns. PureOne is still the better filter. If PureOnes were not available I would take the Synthetic over the standard Purolator filter.

-Jake

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I just picked up the Bosch 3323. (thanks for the thread btw, looked this up while sitting in the auto parts store parking lot.) They had the Mobil 1 filters at about twice the price of the Bosch, anyone have an opinion on why I would pay $12 for the Mobil vs. $6 for the same size Bosch?

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Actually, they are claiming that the synthetic line traps more dirt than the PureOne. 27 grams vs. 13 grams. They are claiming that the synthetic filter is a 10,000 mile filter. (Not that I plan to try that!) Price was identical to the PureOne, $5 at Advance Auto Parts.

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Actually, they are claiming that the synthetic line traps more dirt than the PureOne. 27 grams vs. 13 grams. They are claiming that the synthetic filter is a 10,000 mile filter. (Not that I plan to try that!) Price was identical to the PureOne, $5 at Advance Auto Parts.

When I re-read the PureOne advertising materials it was not totally clear to me if the "13 grams" reference actually represents the PureOne oil filter's maximum filtration capacity. However, you may be right concluding that the new synthetic line of oil filters may be designed to capture and hold more contaminants, albeit of those a larger size @ 25 microns vs. 20 microns for PureOne filters. It's also not clear to me if the 99% filter efficiency rating for the synthetic filters was based on the larger 25 micron particle size.

The new synthetic oil filters appear to be positioned to appeal to those who prefer to use synthetic motor oils and who want to use extended drain intervals accordingly vs. the PureOne filters which have been promoted as premium oil filters which provide a near-perfect (99.9%) level of filtration efficiency. Note that for extended drain intervals some manufacturers have recommended that their oil filters be changed every 5k miles, or ~ 1/2 way thorough a 10k-mile oil change interval.

Note that filtration "efficiency" ratings promoted for the 3 Purolator oil filter lines are listed on their website as follows:

L "classic" filters: 97.5% @ 20 microns

S "synthetic" filters: 99% @ 25 microns (?)

PL "PureOne" filters: 99.9% @ 20 microns

Edited by smoothsailin
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MOst mc filters open completely up (unfiltered) under full throttle conditions. I think debating which filters best under these conditions is meaningless. Actually Auto filters can prevent full oil flow under these conditions, cause they have higher pressure requirement to open up and bypass.......

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  • 11 months later...

The almost complete reference guides to oil filter alternatives:

shorter types

2013 07 01 124817

longer types

2013 07 01 113939

This is just from a cross reference guide provided by Fram on their website so TIFWIW. Any user needs to do their own due diligence.

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Nice resource. It makes me wonder how many of the filters on the list are made in the same factory of the same materials and have a different label slapped on it.

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  • 4 weeks later...
I had my valve check done at 20K. I know some folks here have strong opinions on the need for one inside of 100K, but that's a different thread. My problem here is he used K&N oil filter when he put it back together. Some might think this is a plus, but I hate those filters. Make sure you let your mechanic know not to use that if you're with me on K&N filters.


Doing an oil change right now, and I can't take the filter off. I have some choice words for him (Gabriel at GP Moto in Bellflower, CA) in my mind as I'm going through my arsenal of tools to remove the filter. The "hex nut" on top of the filter is not a real hex nut, but rather made out of stamped steel. It deforms from the slightest amount of torque. If you try to use metal filter removal tools, it has nothing for the tool to hook into. The filter is round, with no notches. I'm ready to us the screwdriver trick, but that's the last resort. Punching the screwdriver through the filter gets messy.


Any suggestions before I punch through the filter with a screwdriver?

Edited by Viffer88
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I've never had a filter that a strap wrench could not remove. They can get in to some pretty tight spaces though on your '08 you may need to drain the coolant to separate the coolant hoses in front of the filter - but if it gets the filter off, it's all good.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-2-pc-strap-wrench-set/p-00945570000P

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-rubber-strap-wrench-set-94119.html

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A decent size set of channel locks works sometimes too. Deforms the filter, but who cares at this point.

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+1 to the strap wrench and big channel locks suggestions. I've got something that looks and works like a strap wrench but looks like one side of a bike chain-hasn't failed to ever get a filter off. Another thing you can do because it's round is put an aviation style screw clamp on it and pound it loose.

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  • 1 month later...
  • Member Contributer

I have never had an oil filter leak by doing these two things...and I can usually remove them by hand.

A. During the oil change when you're about to install the new filter, dip you finger into the used oil pan and coat the o-ring/seal on the new filter AND the mating surface on the engine. This will keep the seal sticking/bonding to mating surface.

B. Spin the filter on until it's snug and then give an additional 1/4 to less than 1/2 turn. That's it. The seal will swell up a bit making the seal even tighter.

If you're using channel locks to get a filter off, well then overkill Bill, you're putting it on too tight and/or not applying a coat of oil to the new seal. :biggrin:

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