JeffInFranklinTN

Thank you sir. You helped me figure it out. I got them out. Compared to a 5th Gen, the fairings and trims on a 6th are a royal PITA. I have now noticed both inner panels are missing. 🙄 Why, why do people do half assed crap. Thanks again Cogswell, Jeffrey Everyone has a fancy nickname but me.😶

Hi JeffInFranklinTN, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

I need to adjust the head light aim and cannot get these panels off.

It’s my 6th Gen I’m working on right now. I did read the article though. I’ll be checking the synch on my 5th in the near future. It would be nice if I had a set of gauges that displays mmhg not cmhg.

Thanks for the help and the compliment. The paint has some flaws but I got a decent deal on her. (I think) $3,500 with under 28K. I hope the slow speed surging and the hesitation when the vtec kicks in is remedied now. Hopefully the weather will be nice tomorrow/today and I’ll find out. A little funny story....I took the wife out for a ride a few days ago and decided to eat. As I was pulling into the parking lot looking for spot, I was moving pretty slow and holding the throttle just enough to maintain speed and it started surging. She said, “Are you doing that on purpose?” I laughed and said “No”. I bet her head was bobbing back and forth.😂 Cheers to you Grom

Side stand was up. Thank you so much. Had no idea the side stand would effect that.

I have been trying to resolve a surging issue at slow speed and a hesitation before the vtec engages. I’ve done a starter valve sync twice now. Once with the MAP sensor connected (no vacuum) as per the manual and once with the MAP sensor not connected. (you tube video) With or without the MAP sensor connected made no difference when starting or engine idle. To my understanding, when the MAP sensor is disconnected the FI light should flash an error code when the engine is running while doing the starter valve synch. It does not flash at all. It just stays lit. After putting everything back in place, turn the key on, FI is lit. Start it up FI light goes out. This shouldn’t be. There should be a MAP sensor error code stored in memory causing the FI light to flash. Which there is a procedure you can do to clear the memory. Anyone had this issue? Jeffrey

Thank you. I will keep this info handy. I really wish I could find some info/procedures on how the throttle bodies were set up on the assembly line.

The throttle bodies are well balanced now but now when in 1st gear going slow and opening the throttle just enough to maintain speed I am having surging and also just before the vtec engages there is a slight hesitation. No mods with the PAIR or airbox. Does not have a power commander. FI light is not on or blinking. I am thinking a previous owner may have adjusted the No. 4 starter valve. Which you are not suppose to do that. Would anyone know to reset the No. 4 starter valve to the factory setting? How many inches of mercury (vacuum) should the No. 4 starter valve be pulling? The gauges I used read cm hg. I have them balanced to the No. 4 starter valve as per the manual states. The cm hg reads just under 26 on the gauge. Is that too much? Too little? On a positive note, my fuel mileage is better now. Appreciate any help. Jeffrey

It's been quite a while since I've posted/visited this fine site. I've been seeing posts on Face Book recently and most are electrical problems regarding the R/R's. Including newer model VFR's. A few years ago I purchased an OEM R/R (I believe I purchased that from a member here) so I could have a spare whenever I am on a motorcycling adventure. I usually go on a 3 to 4 day trip to the Waynesville, NC area 2 to 3 times a year. So I bring my spare along just in case. Well, I have yet to need it. I have owned my 2000 model for 6 years now. It now has roughly 64,000 miles on it without any of the typical electrical problems I've read about on this site and Face Book. Engine sounds great. No mechanical or clutch noise. I do check the charging system at least once a year and a visual disconnected inspection of the 3 yellow wire connector. Which still looks great. Oil and filter change at least once a season. When I first got the bike I replaced all the brake pads. Rebuilt the secondary master cylinder. It was leaking and rebuilt the rear caliper and a full brake system bleed. I going to go through the whole brake system again this winter. Just because well, she's old. Oh and of course tires. Who hasn't spent a wad of money on tires for the last 6 years? I just told my wife a few days ago that this bike is probably the best thing I've ever bought. Anyway, a big thank you for this site and a big thank you for the tonfabulous load of info from all the members here and for being great members here. Cheers, Jeffrey

Hi JeffInFranklinTN, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

A member here sold me one he had for a 5th gen that he no longer owned. If I’m going on a few day trip, I have it packed with me. If my battery isn’t dead, I should be back on the road after swapping out the bad one. I purchased the yellow decals on the wheels from a vendor on eBay. I believe he was located in Spain. Took about 3 weeks to deliver. Comes pre-cut in a kit. Most of it was a peel and apply yourself. It’s time consuming. I removed both wheels and did it in an evening. Well lighted area will help the process. Not a perfect job but I do get compliments.

Well, I have the same year model as yours and have put 20k miles or so on mine. 60k on it now. Pretty sure it’s the OEM R/R. My 3 yellow wire connector and other connectors look great. I’m not fixing it until it’s time to. Have another OEM R/R on standby.

That's good news. Always check the easy stuff first.