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Chain slack adjustment - side stand or main stand


suawek

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Hi!

 I have a question regarding chain slack maintenance.

Most of you will probably see this and think that I can't use search - please stand by 😄

 

So here's the thing:

 

 paper user manuals (in few different languages) that came with bike state that chain slack should be adjusted on center stand (photos of english manual below):

image.thumb.jpeg.fed7f7e1d6089d0de00b77182cb57261.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.c0463acd5cae0066102b29839b4e027f.jpeg

 

but user manual that is downloadable from honda website (https://cdn.powersports.honda.com/documentum/MWOM/ml.remawmom.2015_31mjm610_vfr800f_interceptor.pdf)

and service manual both instruct to adjust it on side stand:

 

 

image.png.7025965a2c01d8a16a09c97113ea5878.png

 

Screenshot2023-06-12at13_45_00.png.188d7947924f23983612ede79f114bf3.png

 

 

Both variants specify same slack (25-35mm)

 

For now I opted to set slack according to service manual - I set slack to 25mm in tightest spot (after ride, on warm chain). Seems to be safer option as it's better to have it set a bit too loose rather than too tight.

 

I also measured difference between slack as measured on side stand and centre stand and difference is about 5-7mm so my question is whether anyone knows which procedure is correct.

 

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Interesting indeed! Just checked my 5 different 800F/800X manuals (same drive as 800F).

 

First is paper Honda Shop Manual (800F & 800X) - sidestand

20230612_201228.thumb.jpg.6203e2413ab4685432a9604d7cf967c1.jpg

 

Second is 800X paper Owners Manual - says both depending on ED or U type

20230612_201050.thumb.jpg.3cdc6377054034d30efd1f3e103c428a.jpg

 

Third is digital 800F/800X Combined Service Manual - sidestand

Screenshot_20230612_201411_AdobeAcrobat.thumb.jpg.911166bf7a2b7832efd3e9e36d9f305e.jpg

 

Next is 2016 digital Owners Manual - centre stand

Screenshot_20230612_201525_AdobeAcrobat.thumb.jpg.e55d0e3147d17faf377eee7ca40b63f1.jpg

 

Finally 2014 digital 800F Owners Manual - sidestand

Screenshot_20230612_201606_AdobeAcrobat.thumb.jpg.cd08b4471c6a287e430a2c16be8fa25e.jpg

 

Somewhat confusing but I always check and adjust on the sidestand. I tried it on the centrestand to their recommended adjustment and as soon as it was back on 2 wheels, the chain was far too tight.

 

YMMV.

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Funny! Thanks for sharing that comparison.

 

Side, for sure. I've done the same and had it all bind up while riding.

 

Chain slack is a common topic at track days. Our best scenario is to have the rider sitting on the bike to check it. Still, differnet bikes work differently. Little KTMs have almost no slack due to the geometry, but normally I set mine to just barely not touching the chain guide at the tight point when I'm on it. Loose is better than tight. YRMV

 

You may find the same variation checking coolant and oil levels...including that the bike be hot/cold, etc. 

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Thanks all of you for your insights.

That confirms exactly what I thought.

When adjusted on centre stand chain is just too tight during riding. Gear changes felt really awkward - similarly to like it is when chain is very loose.

This issue with gear changes is what actually made me check slack again and find this discrepancy in manuals 😂

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Some of the discrepancy may be due to the Standard US models not coming equipped with a center stand, while the US Deluxe and all Euro models have them fitted.  I prefer to set my chain slack on the center stand since it is more consistent.  Remember, too loose is better than too tight!

 

-SlideRule

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  • 3 weeks later...

I hate to interject at this point with another point of view but couldn't resist.  

All the cycle magazines and journals about motorcycle maintenance and operational procedures, that I have ever read mind you, say that the best possible way to adjust your chain is with the motorcycle upright and pre-loaded with the same rider weight that is normal for the bike.

You want the swing arm at the same angle or position as it normally at while you are riding it. 

 

So I have always used a swing arm stand for my bikes while doing chain adjustments.  You can preload the rear by pushing down a little before adjusting.  The center stand would be the worst way (manuals be damned) because the swing arm never tops out like that unless you are a moto crosser.  

 

Any change in swing arm angle makes a big difference in chain slack measurement.

Also, spin the wheel several times first to determine where the tightest slack is found and stop there to do your adjusting.  You won't be able to do this if the bike is on it's side stand so that is not the best way either, manuals be damned again.  

 

Just my 2 cents and what has always worked perfectly for me over 47 years riding and while getting the maximum life out of my chain and sprockets.  

Also use Maxima Chain Wax spray.  Your chain will love you : )

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24 minutes ago, SubyRS said:

the swing arm never tops out like that unless you are a moto crosser. 

 

Speak for yourself.  Mine do quite often, usually on purpose.

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1 hour ago, Captain 80s said:

 

Speak for yourself.  Mine do quite often, usually on purpose.

I'm sure that is only when you are clearing a tabletop jump.

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38 minutes ago, Terry said:

I'm sure that is only when you are clearing a tabletop jump.

 

Exactly.  Except on the street a "tabletop jump" is called a "railroad crossing". 

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5th and 6gens are all done on center stand, going by the book!

I'm sure the 8gen mentions side stand to allow for the US Standard version.

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The only true way to measure is to compress the rear suspension, such that the gearbox sprocket, the swing arm, pivot, and the rear sprocket pivot are all in a straight line on their centres, then tighten the chain. Thats sets chain tension to the perfect setting regardless of suspension movement. 
 

YMMV

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This thread is hilarious.

 

"Sorry guys, I can't make the ride later today.  I have to adjust my chain."

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29 minutes ago, Captain 80s said:

This thread is hilarious.

 

"Sorry guys, I can't make the ride later today.  I have to adjust my chain."

WHAT? Are you yanking my chain!? :biggrin:

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I adjust as I think right then sit on the bike and reach down to the chain. I check there is proper slack along the whole chain length, get my fingers covered in chain wax, try not to touch anything with my goopy fingers, get off, dont touch anything, roughly clean hand, adjust if necessary, check again, don't touch anything, scrub the rest of that crap off my hand and go ride.

I really love a coating of chain wax inside my gloves, makes them slip on and off so easy!

 

Works for me, sidestand or centre stand.

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I check (not measure with a ruler) with the bike on centre stand when I lube the chain and occasionally when I sit on the bike. I have on some bikes experienced that the chain felt too tight with load compared to unloaded (on centre stand). How much this effect matters depends on the rear suspension stiffness, preload, static (driver/passenger/luggage/fuel) and dynamic (driving) load and the geometry (angle between rear fork and straight line between sprockets) and will be affected if for example the rear suspension unit is changed to a different length. So ... 🙂

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  • 4 months later...
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21 hours ago, Foolish said:

This probably stupid question but I’m serious what is the part called that the cspanner turns and is it replaceable I recently bought the bike and the teeth are all messed up and chain way to loose 

It’s an expensive bit of kit, new. If you search fleabay, you might get a reasonable second hand one. If the bearings are still good, it might be worthwhile taking the bearing holder out and trying to clean up the teeth. My Viffer has just topped 100,000km and the carrier is still in top nick, they shouldn’t get damaged unless a gorilla has tried to adjust the chain.

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Looks like assm #5, no? 

 

So many people lost the tool and use a screwdriver and hammer...or the wrong spanner. Humans...the worst. 

 

At least Starship was a big success this morning. That's not nothing. 

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