VFR78

I use to be 5’7” but at 72, I’m a fair bit shorter😳. If I had an Africa Twin or KTM Adventure, I’m reasonably sure it would fall over, a lot. RC79 with the low seat is all I can handle, but I do get sore knees and neck. My Viffer now has 115,000kms on it, so maybe I need to find something new.

Doesn’t raising the rear shorten trail.

Surely dropping the rear back to standard would give the effect you’re chasing.

I have predominantly used Dunlop Roadsmart 3s and 4s for the last 100,000 kms on my RC79. I’ve used them on track and for cross continent tours. They are very good and last for about 18,000km, without much shape change. I tried Pirelli Angel GT11s once and was not happy with the way they squared off early. To be honest, I think Michelin, Pirelli, Metzeler, Dunlop, Avon etc. all make good tyres and, for most of us, the difference is marginal.

The Lextek site notes that their headers will not fit, if there is a centre stand on the bike.

I may be wrong, but that looks like a build up of chain lube. If you are using the tacky spray on chain lubes, and don’t regularly degrease in there, it can get pretty nasty. I have never seen it that bad before, and never around the clutch slave cylinder. Clean it all up first, before looking at mucking about with the seals.

Skids, I had a hell of a time undoing that nut. A Ryobi rattle gun did nothing. In the end it was a f$&king long breaker bar, with two of my mates holding the bike steady. I replaced the nut with titanium but, given the two different metals and high torque, it might lead to galling and another problem.

Mine was dry when I took it out. No sign of lubricant. I don’t live in an extreme climate (Sydney) and have never had an issue with chain adjustment. I would leave it clean and dry.

He’d be wide awake, just a bit chilly!

Mine is an RC79 with 105,000 kms. I have to say it is the best bike I have owned.

That sounds like my RC79, before I replaced the CCT. I really could not tell the difference between the old and new tensioner, when out of the bike, but the noise went away after I put the new one in.

I would try a new load of ethanol free fuel first. If the bike was running ok before the last fill, it seems to point to the fuel.

I have the same risers on my bike. The forks are set at oem spec and look the same as yours IE flush.

I think it was simply binding, because most of the oil had drained out and maybe it was bare metal to metal. I managed to get the new one to do the same, before I installed it, but a little bit of a shake freed it up. I replaced the stopper bolt and ran the motor for a few seconds. That freed up the the CCT and it retracted normally. The CCTs don’t seem to have very fine tolerances, so a slight misalignment may have been the issue. The ticking from the rear cylinder bank has now disappeared, but I can’t say that the original CCT had failed. It has similar spring strength to the new one. My guess is it would probably have been OK for another 100,000 kms, just a bit noisy. Just completed a 100km test ride and the red rocket is back to its best.

Sorted!

These CCTs are pretty simple, just a spring and a worm drive. How can it possibly jam?

Thanks for responding so quickly Grum. Yes turning clockwise. All seemed ok until I had to release the little temporary key, to get a better grip. Next try it stopped turning after an eighth of a turn. I had a regular ticking sound from the rear cylinders, after warm up. The bike is at 105,000km and was running well, but figured I would tackle the simple stuff first. Rear cct seemed to be ideal for some practice. My local dealership did the valve clearances 3 times (at least I paid 3 times). Last at 74,000km, so it’s unlikely to be them. If it’s valves, I figured I’d look at them, when everything was off the bike, for the front cct. VTEC valves rarely get used so it’s unlikely to be them. In any event they are not flapping about at idle. The “screw driver” stethoscope suggested rear, but there is so much going on in there, its hard to know for sure. I will try to budge it with a simple screwdriver next. Just working in a carport is a PIA.

I’m in the process of trying to replace the CCTs, after hearing a bit of noise from the rear cylinders. The temporary stopper tool bent why I was trying to retract the tensioner, although I could feel the spring tightening for about half a turn. I have now made a made substantial stopper tool, but now cannot wind the tensioner out at all. It seems to be locked tight. Question is, can I pull the cct out, without retracting it? being careful not to dislodge the metal cap.

I’m not suggesting that you use the RC79 spec plugs in your bike, but an iridium plug might be better. Less faffing about with plug changes.

The RC79 uses iridium plugs. IMR9D-9H (NGK). They will last for well over 50,000km.

Sorry for the late reply Presson. I’ve been sick as a dog after a 24 hour flight home from the UK. It does require taking half of your motorcycle apart, to get to all of the rear lines, so I didn’t do it. Like you, I prefer riding. There is a small section of rubber line, down at the rear caliper, and it’s easily replaced without much faff, so that is all I did. A bit slack of me!

I have done the fronts and the rear caliper line, on my RC79. It all works ok. Presson is on the money, with the lines connecting to the ABS unit. It was way to hard for me. The braided lines look “trick” but I can’t say that there has been a very significant improvement in brake performance.

Hi VFR78, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

I guess that means that there is another valve check looming!

Three valve clearance checks in the first 75,000km on my 2014. All within spec. Now over 100,000km and the bike is still running perfectly. I don’t cane it and rarely go into 4 valve mode, although I did one track day a couple of years ago and it was rarely in 2 valve mode. A pretty good motor.