VFR78
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Everything posted by VFR78
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You could ask the same question of Kawasaki and Suzuki!
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Get a 520 DID ZVM-X. Probably as good as the original 530!
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It was said in a Motorcycle Mag, after a test somewhere in the Dolomites, at very high speeds, I think. I have often thought about the Versys, as an update on the Viffer, but it’s a bit tall fo me.
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Mileage Let's Rock'em 'til the wheels fall off...
VFR78 replied to RC79NC001's topic in Eighth Generation VFR's
What, if any, significant maintenance have you done over those miles? Mine is at 65,000 km and I was wondering what preemptive maintenance I should consider, to avoid moving to a new bike. -
Honda had to do something, now the Viffer is no more, and all the others have Sport Touring options.
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I have read that the Versys can get a bit wayward at high speeds. Very high speeds, that is, which means up around 200kph. Otherwise, the Versys seems to be pretty good.
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Tracer is too high for me!
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Finally, after inclement weather and COVID lockdown, I managed to get my coached Track Day done, at the very tight Luddenham NSW course. Plenty of foot scraping, but not a sign of the centre stand hitting. The very long foot peg feelers give you plenty of warning. Getting your bum of the seat and your shoulders over, keeps everything safe.
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- 8th generation
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Maybe Danno could run the Arizona branch!
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Bloody hell Grum, I’ve gone cross eyed. You need to come out of retirement and open a motorcycle shop, specialising in Viffers. I’d be a customer!
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“are so similar that our wet clutch wouldn't know the difference” They are different.
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I thought VFR stood for Very F$&ing Red!
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I have an Arrow on my G8, without a DB killer, and it’s always been as smooth as silk. I guess every bike can be slightly different.
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WTF
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I’d need stilts to ride it!
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Surely running the motor to heat the oil would also mobilise the contaminants and, once the engine stops, the free flowing oil will drain to the sump with the contaminants. The oil doesn’t need to be red hot to drain well. I run the motor to get the oil hot, but don’t crack the filter or drain plug until the exhaust has cooled enough to avoid 3rd degree burns!
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Hope all is OK now. Past our bed time in OZ.
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Just rechecked the shop manual. Getting the piston flush should be enough to get it all back together easily.
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Try fitting it, after every little attempt to move it. Once the slave cylinder slides into place correctly, your done. Keep an eye on the master cylinder, to make sure you are not creating leaks up there. It’s a bit of a balancing act. Don’t get ham fisted.
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Further. The piston needs to be recessed so that when you pull the clutch lever it has plenty of room to move, without hitting anything solid.
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Yes. The entire piston!
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Yes it’s like moving brake pistons at a pad change. I have managed to push the piston back with firm constant pressure with my hand. It just moves very slowly.
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Bigmac, I had not activated the clutch when my issue arose. I think it was just misalignment that caused the problem for me. If you activated the clutch and somehow changed gear, with the cover off, there might be another problem. But I still think you’ll need to take the slave cylinder off the countershaft cover, to sort it out.
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Yes. That’s how I overcame the issue you seem to be having. My problem seemed to be purely related to alignment of the push rod with the depression in the slave cylinder piston. Just be very very careful. DON’T touch your clutch lever and make sure you tape/keep the slave piston in place, within the slave cylinder. DON’T let it migrate out of the slave cylinder or you’ll be in a world of pain.
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Too late. Already lodged. In lockdown anyway! Boo hiss!
