VFR78

Have a look at Renntec from the UK

Pacificman, I don’t have a part number. It looks like SW Motech may have discontinued the AluRac for our bike and I’ve given you a bum steer. I can’t find reference to it on the Aussie site anymore. Maybe it’s worth emailing the manufacturer direct, to see if they have any stock left. Sorry for the misdirection.

With a Givi adapter.

Look at SW-Motech. I have one on my 2014. Much neater looking than other offerings.

All good. Mine is the same.

Sitting in traffic on Chandos St, in Sydney, in the 70s. It also cracked a rear suspension arm, maybe because of our crappy roads. A motorcycle racing buddy, from a wealthy family. He moved on to a V12 E type 2+2 after that. Now that was a proper car!! Lost his life racing a Jota.

Didn’t the TR6’s catch fire occasionally too. I’ve seen a bubbling bonnet before.

To add to the confusion, I compared the length of a new bolt, to a used bolt, using a digital vernier. The bloody new bolt was longer, go figure! Time to move on now, me thinks.

The Gen 8 bolts are tubular, so standard torque settings and stretch characteristics go out the window. Why are they hollow? Who knows, but there has to be a reason. Maybe it’s so they can flex under braking, just like aeroplane wings flex in flight and consequently they may fail over time. Everyone seems to be focusing on the threadlock treatment as the reason for replacing them, I can’t see that as particularly relevant, when it’s easily removed from the fittings, with a tap and die, and then replaced. I’m not suggesting they should or should not be replaced, just would like to know the rationale. Lawyers probably have an input, but there must be a concern, somewhere in Mr Honda, that they might fail after repeated stressing. There has to be more to it and it would be nice to know.

They are rare. I’ve waited at least a month for mine. Very strange all around!

I’ve only done it a couple of times, purely because its cost prohibitive. What I’d really like to know, or understand, is why Mr Honda says they need to be replaced.

Not too sure that is the solution. I think they are supposed to stretch - once! Ti might be too strong for the alloy in the fork mounts. I really have no idea what is best. Never did mechanical engineering or metallurgy.

Abt. $108.00 AUD a set.

I’ve replaced the bolts on two occasions in the last 7.5 years and 72,000 km. They are hollow, so I figure they will lose their flexibility/stretching ability over time. It costs a bomb, so I can understand why people baulk at it.

I have a 2014. I always take off both calipers, but have never removed the abs sensor.

I’m wrong, apparently STs are still available!

$295.45 (17/07/20) Grum. It wasn’t the cheapest at the time, but I needed it for our SW Queensland trek. Only just removed it, pre Tassie. The Angel GT IIs are supposed to be Pirelli’s latest sport touring tyre. I don’t think STs are available anymore, unless its just called Angel now.

Have a look at the reviews of Dunlop Roadsmart 3 & 4. They are my preferred tyre. I had to swap to Pirelli Angel GT II for a recent lap of Tassie and while they hold on OK, they squared off noticeably after 4,800km. My previous rear Roadsmart 3 still had a reasonable profile after 17,000 km, of mainly touring. The Roadsmart also handled a trackday with no issues.

I’ve seen two water pump failures on Eighth Generation Viffers. Mine and another. According to my friendly Honda mechanic its rare, but does happen. Repair of the pump mechanical seal was not an option, according to the shop manual, so I bought a new one. Replacement was simple. On the centre stand, on a slightly sloping base, meant no oil loss. It’s important to use the correct coolant, because some have scouring additives that damage the mechanical seal. I suspect that my pump failure might have been the result the use of the wrong coolant, by the shop, but don’t really know. I now look after everything but the valves. Bike now has over 70,000kms on it a running beautifully. Overdue for forks and steering head overhaul, though.

Rub it in, why don’t ya!

I have one. It is good quality and about 50mm higher. It looks good but is not really a touring screen. It’s more for track work, to allow you to get down behind it, on straights. I’m a short arse (1.7m) and found it increased wind buffeting while in touring mode. There are probably better screens for touring.

They are supposed to last around 100,000kms, but try to tell that to your friendly Honda service guy.

Last set I bought was $28 each.

It’s Coors Light. Might be best to leave it behind 😂.