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Why are you pulling the engine?

 

Rebuild the carbs, find a plenum chamber/air filter, fluids and you’re ready to fire it up ....a first run on flushing oil will clear any sludge out 

 

Personally I’d take the plugs out and turn the motor over for a few minutes on the crankshaft to be sure oil is circulating to the journal on start up 

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4 minutes ago, Thumbs said:

Why are you pulling the engine?

I had thought that since it was sitting for 12 years, it probably needs new seals everywhere... perhaps not?  I mean, the oil was clean, the coolant was clean... no leaks... I'll think about it while I try to find the airbox.  

 

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6 hours ago, Gebruiker said:

Meanwhile, if you're tempted to cut the rear fender down for a more contemporary look, you might think of scrounging a cut one off Ebay. 

No cutting of the fender here.  I'm not opposed to the look.

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1 hour ago, damionj said:

I had thought that since it was sitting for 12 years, it probably needs new seals everywhere... perhaps not?  I mean, the oil was clean, the coolant was clean... no leaks... I'll think about it while I try to find the airbox.  

 

Leave the engine in I'd say.....

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used regularly or sitting for lotsa years our bikes don't need preventative seal replacement, so leave the engine in.

 

BTW, i have a great set of gen3 carbs freshly cleaned and rebuilt for sale in classified, ready to go.

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23 hours ago, Dutchy said:

Leave the engine in I'd say.....

yeah, maybe squirt oil down plug-holes and spin engine by hand around couple times.

Then do compression-test

Then use starter to crank it over some more and build oil-pressure.

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18 hours ago, damionj said:

While I wait for delivery... more cleaning.

 

No cleaning suggestions from me. My standards are pretty modest compared to a lot of guys in here. But it looks like you're pretty serious about doing this right. SInce you have the gauge cluster apart, you might consider getting LEDs for in there. They're pretty cheap these days, and much brighter than the original lamps.

 

You've already heard about not worrying much about leaks. That seems right to me. The only leak I've found is at the clutch slave. That one is common enough. But it's relatively easy to access. You'd be able to replace the seal any time...

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You should seriously check out the blog posts and how-to's at v4dreams.com He does a great job at restorations and has some very good tips for saving plastics and other original parts.

I go just to see what the guy is up to every week.

 

Saving  clear-plastic windscreens:

http://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/saving-a-windscreen

http://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/project-23-update

 

Reviving black plastic mirrors:

http://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/mirror-magic

 

Cleaning out a rusty fuel tank:

http://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/fill-er-upwith-vinegar

 

Saving Original Bolts:

http://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/bolt-therapy

 

Repairing cracks in fairings:

http://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/panel-surgery

 

Buffing Fairings:

http://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/cut-n-buff

 

 

 

His maintenance tips page:

http://v4dreams.com/maintenance.html

 

 

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On 9/21/2020 at 12:27 PM, paulmeisterpk said:

You should seriously check out the blog posts and how-to's at v4dreams.com

 

 

Looks like this is an amazing wealth of information.  Thanks!

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On 9/21/2020 at 9:27 AM, Gebruiker said:

 

SInce you have the gauge cluster apart, you might consider getting LEDs for in there.

 

Not a bad idea at all!  I'll look up replacements.

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On 9/20/2020 at 2:28 PM, damionj said:

Good news! Found an air box and base plate on eBay.  While I wait for delivery... more cleaning. 

What have you all used to restore plastics? 

I had good luck restoring the plastics on my ZX7R I redid with smearing everything that was black plastic with vaseline and letting them sit for 3 days and then buffing the parts out.  I got that idea from Iconic Motorbikes on their website as a restoration tip.

 

NIck

 

On 9/20/2020 at 2:28 PM, damionj said:

 

4B503D8B-CE8E-4D00-969F-77A76D30157F.jpeg

 

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http://v4dreams.com/maintenance.html, never seen this site before and plenty of excellent reading, love the removal of the footpegs and may try and locate a second hand pair to play around with so I can keep my originals

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Putting on the base plate for the air box is a bit of a bear!  But I hooked up to a battery today and heard the motor turn over! All the electronics seem to check out. 
 

It sounded good. Just need to keep pushing along and find all my missing pieces. 
 

 

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19 hours ago, squirrelman said:

without the air box and filter they usually run too lean for good performance.

It was just an operational check. Making sure the starter and electronics were working. 
 

The air box arrived. Of course, it’s missing a hose connector. I’m modeling and 3D printing a new one. Should be done modeling, printing and in-hand by tomorrow evening. 
 

 

E5215AEF-13A8-469A-8DC4-3DE51DC62AF3.jpeg

 

 

Basic shape is done... now some refining...

 

image.png.508169e245c8dec06008a536beb30e19.png

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2 hours ago, damionj said:

It was just an operational check. Making sure the starter and electronics were working. 
 

The air box arrived. Of course, it’s missing a hose connector. I’m modeling and 3D printing a new one. Should be done modeling, printing and in-hand by tomorrow evening. 
 

 

E5215AEF-13A8-469A-8DC4-3DE51DC62AF3.jpeg

 

 

Basic shape is done... now some refining...

 

image.png.508169e245c8dec06008a536beb30e19.png

 

Those two hose connectors attach to the PAIR system.  Most people remove it and plug those connectors.  From the pictures that you have posted, it is hard to tell the PAIR system has been removed  from your bike.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 9/24/2020 at 12:15 AM, damionj said:

Putting on the base plate for the air box is a bit of a bear!  But I hooked up to a battery today and heard the motor turn over! All the electronics seem to check out. 
 

It sounded good. Just need to keep pushing along and find all my missing pieces. 
 

 

Hello fellow VFRists,

 

What the he... is that fuel warning light on the dash? Is that specific to US models? I don't think mine has one...

 

@damionj keep up the good work, this bike is worth it. I enjoy mine anytime I ride it even if it deserves some upgrades I cannot afford right now 😉

 

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On 10/12/2020 at 3:13 AM, bdouvill said:

is that fuel warning light on the dash?

 

Yes!

On 10/12/2020 at 3:13 AM, bdouvill said:

Is that specific to US models?

 

Yes! Unless you count Canada, then No... 😁

On 10/12/2020 at 3:13 AM, bdouvill said:

I don't think mine has one...

 

You're not missing much. I think I prefer the old fashioned reserve switch...which we don't get. My fuel gauge is so finicky, the light comes on when I have about 2 gallons left in the tank. So I've learned to just keep an eye on the trip odometer which I reset at every fill up.

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8 hours ago, Gebruiker said:

 

Yes!

 

Yes! Unless you count Canada, then No... 😁

 

You're not missing much. I think I prefer the old fashioned reserve switch...which we don't get. My fuel gauge is so finicky, the light comes on when I have about 2 gallons left in the tank. So I've learned to just keep an eye on the trip odometer which I reset at every fill up.

 

I did not realize that was replacing the reserve manual switch. Having to switch to reserve while driving always happens at the worst time, so I try to stay away from that as much as I can. I try to refill when I reach 150 km on the odometer because so far, I have only rode it around town or near town so no exceptional gas mileage.

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On 10/13/2020 at 4:47 PM, bdouvill said:

I did not realize that was replacing the reserve manual switch. Having to switch to reserve while driving always happens at the worst time, so I try to stay away from that as much as I can. I try to refill when I reach 150 km on the odometer because so far, I have only rode it around town or near town so no exceptional gas mileage.

 

I'm pretty sure the switch assembly can be installed on American bikes without much trouble. If you wanted the light....mmmmmm, not sure it'd be so easy. Besides replacing your odometer gauge, you'd need a sensor somewhere. I wonder if your bike is pre-wired for that. JZH or one of the knowledgeable guys might have an idea. But it sounds as if you have a perfectly good way to avoid problems anyway 🙂

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They are separate systems.  You can have both a reserve switch and a low fuel light, but you need a bunch of parts from the US model, e.g., the fuel tank sender and the tachometer.  Other than that, I think I just had to change the 2P connector for a 3P connector and add one wire.  I happened to have a US model in parts, so it was easy to combine the two.  Here's the two senders (US-spec on top):

 

P8020003xx.thumb.jpg.cbd0425e72b0abad8bf8191ec893689d.jpg

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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19 hours ago, JZH said:

They are separate systems.  You can have both a reserve switch and a low fuel light, but you need a bunch of parts from the US model, e.g., the fuel tank sender and the tachometer.  Other than that, I think I just had to change the 2P connector for a 3P connector and add one wire.  I happened to have a US model in parts, so it was easy to combine the two.  Here's the two senders (US-spec on top):

 

P8020003xx.thumb.jpg.cbd0425e72b0abad8bf8191ec893689d.jpg

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

Thanks again @JZH for sharing the thruth 😉

Will keep the reserve switch and keep relying on the odometer to determine when to refill.

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