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Gebruiker

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Everything posted by Gebruiker

  1. When I first got my 3rd generation, Lorne pointed out there could be sympathetic vibration in the gas tank at certain rpms. And there was a simple fix by tweaking the baffles inside the tank with something like a bent coathanger. I don't know if that little glitch was reserved for us 3g owners, but if you still haven't zeroed in on the source... Here's an awful youtube on the fix: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mT4zSj_19-g The other guys here might be able to comment if that's just not a possibility on 5th generation bikes.
  2. Besides the sources listed above from Cogswell and JZH, Kurvygirl might have what you're looking for. https://www.kurveygirl.com/shop/
  3. MaxSwell recommended this source of decals to me a while back. They're in the EU, but they ship to the States, and seem to offer what you need: https://moto-sticker.com/Honda-1998-2001-VFR-800
  4. You could be right in all respects. We might try to contrast that with the membership and activity here on VFRd. Has that been changing much? Fewer VFRs for sale...fewer VFRs...fewer VFR riders... I took this picture off Craigs List northeast a couple weeks ago because every bike in it was arrest-me-red... Maybe there's some kind of correlation there too. πŸ™‚
  5. Electrical advice starts right here: https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/forum/7-electrical/ Honda was diligent enough to maintain its dodgy charging system through several generations, so some of the links are not specifically for your fourth generation. ...And this is a good idea. It'll only take a second. Bad electrics might keep you sitting by the side of the road. A missing back wheel might make you part of the road. 😬 Have fun!
  6. Have you tried it with the reservoir diaphragm and cover installed? I wonder if something simple as that would provide back pressure needed for proper operation.
  7. Oh rats...Jefferson that's discouraging news. And the first review of any kind I'd heard on E3 plugs. I'm not sure how I'd identify bad plugs without taking a plug reading and I'm not inclined to do that unless one or more cylinders simply stopped firing completely leaving the engine running on three or two cylinders...or not at all. For now, I'm only going on my amateur seatofthepants judgement. The bike seems to run fine, so like moroseduck, I'm not prepared to mess with anything. To be clear, I'm not absolutely sure the thing has E3 plugs. I only know the previous owner told me he'd installed some kind of performance plugs with fancy electrodes. He may have said the word 'gapless' but in any case, the only plugs I saw on Amazon are the ones we're already talking about. Looking a little harder I now see other plugs available, and not on Amazon. Maybe he meant these things: https://www.briskracing.com/ Where is PO when I need him... Moving on, here's all I think I know about heat range: Hotter plugs work better when the engine is cold or operating at lower rpms to resist fouling. Once an engine is hot and running hard, cooler plugs resist knocking. Given that choice, I'd think cooler plugs work better on a VFR. But if so, why would Honda offer hotter plugs? Maybe the difference between CR8 and CR9 plugs is insignificant. In that case, why bother selling two types of plugs at all. I really shoulda paid more attention in shop class... πŸ™„
  8. Spark Plugs Moroseduck started a thread on spark plugs for his gen3 here: That got me thinking about my own plugs. Something I hadn't considered before. I mean, so long as the bike runs... As it happens, I got an extra set of official, unused Honda NGK CR9EH-9 plugs with the bike. Presumably the official Honda NGK plugs are better than the unofficial regular NGK plugs and therefore worth more from the Honda dealer... πŸ€” So far as I know, the CR9 plugs are hotter than standard CR8 plugs. What operating difference that might make is beyond me. Maybe they're just wrong for the bike and that's why they were extras... (Ed. Nope. Backwards. 8s are hotter than 9s for NGK. Thanks Airwalk, below. Apparently every manufacturer uses its own heat range index so a higher number can be hotter or cooler, depending on brand.) Anyway, the previous owner told me he’d installed high performance multi-electrode plugs on the bike. He may well have. I’ve yet to check down there. E3 plugs are the ones with the funny electrode design. https://e3sparkplugs.com/motorcycle-spark-plugs/ Does any of that make a real difference? I don't know. What I can report is that if they are E3’s they work just fine. Folks at Moroseduck's link above seem to mostly like Iridium plugs, the ones that he got with his bike. At Amazon in the States, all these plugs, NGK, NGK Iridium, E3, all of them, seem to cost around seven to twelve dollars a plug. There are plenty of reports about performance differences a spark plug would make. It’d be fun to see real comparative numbers. But considering the apparent difficulty in swapping out plugs on this engine, I’d be inclined to just use the ones that are supposed to last longest. At the moment, those are the ones already in there...
  9. For zero dollars, it looks like you're doing great! There's a youtube guy that might be worth a look. He goes by Superfastmatt. I think he's in California. https://www.youtube.com/c/SuperfastMatt/featured I don't know him. Only his videos, which can be helpful. And funny. Here's his self described bio: Matt Brown is an Automotive Engineer who has spent the last decade working at places like Tesla, Apple, and NASCAR. This channel is here to answer common questions like "How did you do that engine swap," and "Is that a good idea? That doesn't seem like a good idea." There are projects like preparing a Toyota 4Runner for overlanding, putting a motorcycle engine into a car, off-roading impractical vehicles, or just how to do DIY projects the cheap and easy way. There are also occasional car reviews, thoughts about cars & motorcycles, and anything else automobile-related that can be filmed in a way that is more informative than mindless wheelies. There are also wheelies. Anyway, he did a general wiring tutorial just a couple months ago. He also has a Grom...so you might like that video too! πŸ™‚
  10. I've been waiting for this last report! Thanks again for all your upgrade posts. The bike came out great. And Shenandoah has got to be terrific territory for a VFR. Have fun. πŸ™‚
  11. JZH lists scads of paint codes over at vsource. He includes several versions of white, starting with White NH-0, but without further elaboration. 'WheelWhite' does not seem to be a choice. Just the same, you might glance there for inspiration. https://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/BHondaPaintCodes.htm
  12. ...Maybe they'll put these things back into production. VFR-RRoom!
  13. Are the tulips out yet? The real tulips...not the plastic ones.
  14. You've already got your wiring sorted, but I came across a recent video for rewiring that might be generally helpful to others. Maybe. Some helpful tips if you have 20 minutes. The guy talks mostly of rewiring cars, but includes bikes in his approach. I didn't ask for linking permission...so if there's a problem, we might hear about that too.
  15. What I think my bike needs mostly is a more proficient owner... 😁 But bit by bit I've managed to cobble it into better shape than when I got it. Cosmetics were always going to be the hard part because they'd been neglected, and they are an ongoing project when I get bored. 10 feet? More like 50... Mechanically I lucked out on mine. I give credit to Honda for that and the previous owners. I never had to tear into it the way you chose to do on yours. So I'm happy and confident enough riding the thing right now. Still, upgrade jobs occur to me all the time. I should really sort out the R/R stator circuit, as you've done. Repack and polish my yosh...as you have done. Things like that. If I ever decide on renovation to a higher standard, your thread will be one of the inspirations. Thanks for posting! Let us know when you get some rides in.
  16. Following up rebuilds like yours are both inspiring and depressing. They give me an idea of what my bike is supposed to be like and at the same time give me an idea that my bike is never going to be like that. πŸ™‚
  17. It sure looks like you got almost all the rust out of the gas tank. In spite of all that work you've done, do you expect to use an extra fuel filter? Maybe something pretty big to collect random leftover bits of rust that might be hiding, but still allow fuel to flow. I'm just wondering if it'll take a while before there's no more risk of contamination...and I'm wondering if a standard fuel filter would be up to the challenge. Or does the fogging oil create a permanent sealant barrier inside the tank?
  18. If you follow up on this mtnpat, I’m interested too. πŸ™‚ Yoshimura actually recommends repacking at least once a year(!). Seriously? I wonder how many of their customers follow that schedule. https://www.yoshimura-rd.com/pages/repack-and-insert-chart
  19. Yes! Putting money in any project is a different approach. And sometimes just necessary. But there's fun in figuring alternate solutions to challenges. Genius too. And you'll have endless happy conversations with other riders at coffee shops and gas pumps in days to come.
  20. This is the thread I'll now reference if I ever get around to repacking my yoshimura. Thank you for the detailed tutorial! Was the original packing...assuming it was original...also steel wool wrapped with ceramic? It appears to be only ceramic or glass fiber wrapped with foil. Maybe? Also, you wrapped the ceramic blanket with blue tape (your picture below)? Is that some kind of super heat tape that comes with the rewrap kit? It doesn't look permanent. Do you then remove that as you slide the entire package into the can, or do you leave it in place, expecting it to just char once the exhaust warms up? As for your final product...now I know what mine is supposed to look like. 😁
  21. I was really thinking your idea of 'budget' in 'budget rebuild' and my idea of budget were two different things. πŸ˜‰ But the more I read, the more I get the idea you have a bottomless spare parts bin and first class shop, not to mention skills. The bike's gonna be impressive. Following up on the speedometer. Is it then programmable? I mean, do you have enter the diameter of the wheel and also the number of magnetic triggers (rotor bolts?) in order to calibrate? It's my understanding that some grades of stainless steel are not magnetic. For that matter, am I wrong to assume this is a magnetic trigger in the first place? Maybe there's a laser counter in there. And in the end, do you just take the bike for a ride with a friend on a pace bike for confirmation you're in the ballpark?
  22. Everybody says the little Ninja's are loads of fun on a track. The guys have a pretty good website too, not just for ninja's but for general rider information. Nothing like VFRd. Nonono, nowhere near as good as this. πŸ˜‰ But maybe worth a look. It's here: https://forums.ninja250.org/
  23. Nice job on the bracket and upgrade. When you install the new r/r do you use thermal paste? The cooling fins are obvious, but I wonder if paste is still helpful. Like on computer chips...
  24. There's supposed to be a rubber chain guide down there? Is it important? Dang. One more thing to check for on my own bike...
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