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bdouvill last won the day on December 4 2019

bdouvill had the most liked content!

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About bdouvill

  • Rank
    World Superbike Racer

Profile Information

  • Location
    Vallauris, French Riviera - FRANCE
  • In My Garage:
    Suzuki Bandit GSF 400 (1992)
    Honda VFR 750 (1993)
    Kawasaki ZX-10R (2009)

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  1. That's impressive. I look forward to read any progress 😉 I would be interested to hear a little bit the more the details about the Coil over plugs. I read several info on this forum and I thought the output was it did not work on 3rd and 4th gen for obscure reasons. I understood it works fine when idling then start making some weird thing (so unreliable) when hot. @monstar could you please elaborate a little bit more? Thanks a lot in advance.
  2. Hi, Performed my first oil change after 1800 km and 18 months. Usually, I do an oil change at least once a year or at 5 to 6000 km max. At the same time, I mounted the fairing on the left side. I relocated the coil holders without issue (I jacked the engine just in case). I also rebuilt the broken tab on the lower left fairing with Plastifix (damn that works well) but I forgot to take a picture. Now I have a mixed condition fairing parts with top heavily damaged, bottom damaged but ok and side panel in excellent condition... I have a bad condition right side panel (with missing air duct) but no lower part. I struggle to find it on Ebay (in Europe). But I'll find it (or I'll try to order a replica from LineaMoto in Italy). I also have a (broken) red V fairing but I need to mount the right side before repairing (and mounting) it. Now I see that the combination of color is not original by not bad (I mean the silver rear is matching the silver bottom of the front fairing). Cheers.
  3. bdouvill

    My restoration thread

    Place to store all my resto thread. External links seem to break regularly.
  4. Thanks for the picture @JZH Sure when you realize it, seems obvious I used the wrong holes. Just remember when you put it on, you're in the middle of mounting the engine in the frame which I did twice already and is not fun at all... I clearly remember now you have to put one specific bolt first (front right side) and I guess the frame twists itself for the rest to go. Otherwise, this crazy b... never goes in... There's something like 2-3mm between the hole in the frame and the engine mounting point. I hope I can remove the holders one by one and put them back without issue. Will probably put a jack under the engine to support part of its weight. I ordered some of the missing bolts from CMS. I know that's crazy expensive (look at the price of the fasteners for the side panels). So far, I only have experience with Japanese bikes (all 3 of mine come from Japan, only missing a Yamaha and will have one of each 4 brands). What I can say is that if you buy a bike in spare parts, will cost you probably around 100k€... This is insane 🤥
  5. @Gebruiker thanks for the notice. I knew that I had missing bolts and/or incorrect ones. I originally took some pictures of the bike to count how many I need to order from Honda. Then I noticed the wrong placement of the coil holders.
  6. Additional photos of the holders. The marks tell me my assumption is correct and I mounted them incorrectly. Can anyone confirm?
  7. Hi guys, I hope you are all fine during those troubled days. Some update and also some questions. I noticed a small oil leak on top of the clutch cover. Seems like there's a cut-in the top crankcase so the pulse generator can get out of the case. It's leaking there. The plastic housing that fits in this cut is not available on its own, you can only get the whole pulse generator... So I will order a new gasket for the clutch cover and will clean and use some crankcase sealant. I will change oil and filter at the same time. Then I have some fairing questions for you guys. I found some decent parts for the left part of the bike. There are a few broken tab but I feel confident Plastifix will handle it. I went to look at the bike to evaluate which bolts and screws I might be missing and here is what I found: Don't ask me why but it feels like the coil holder seems like it's not in the right place. I am writing this and I feel like the answer is in front of me. The holder bolt should go through the left hole that we can clearly see on the last picture, is that correct? I hope this is an easy fix since this bolt is holding the engine and I remember well putting the engine in the frame is not an easy task. I am pretty sure I have the same problem on the other side of the bike 😞 Thanks in advance for your answers. Stay safe.
  8. On mine, the "-" was grounded to the lower triple clamp where I think the horn is grounded too. Not sure this ideal but so far it works great and never generated any hiccups. In the past, I grounded a LED turn signal relay to the frame of my Bandit 400 (which is steel and not aluminium) and this caused the bike to stop working when I used the turn signals... Back to normal when I used the battery ground terminal instead of the frame. I learned the ground is connected to the engine case and not the frame) even if they are connected to each other.
  9. Hi, I got the same kind of setup on my bike. Voltmeter is a Koso mounted on the triple clamp (was there when I bought the bike). Removed the almost new RR (pretty sure non genuine Honda but similar) because everyone on Earth knows how crappy it is and replaced it with a Shindengen. I think it's a FAA20 from a 2012 ZX14R. I am still using the original fuse built with the starter relay. This is important to note since with direct connection of the RR to the battery, charging voltage should be around 15V (I have this kind of setup on my Bandit 400). Here is what I got when running (approx): - 14.4V when running and lights are off - 13.6 to 13.7V when running and lights are on Note that these days (I mean 3 weeks ago before everyone was locked down, damn Covid19...), my battery was 11.9-12.0V before startup (bike sleeps outside under an Oxford cover). I hope this helps.
  10. bdouvill

    European tour 2020

    Which schedule did you have in mind? Sounds like nothing will happen until April and maybe May. Just read this morning Isle Of Man TT 2020 is cancelled and it was supposed to happen in early June...
  11. Damn it, I am 4 days late to celebrate 4 years of this thread 😉 Here is my (late) birthday gift - pics taken today
  12. Quick update on the gas consumption: Down from 7.75L/100km - 30.35 mpg to 7.0L/100km - 33.6 mpg. This came with the revised rear tyre (no getting in contact with the swingarm) together with me getting hand on the bike. Only back and forth to work, mainly in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear. I can expect to go down to 6.25L/100km - 37.6 mpg when I ride it on B roads limited to 80km/h - 50mph.
  13. Some news again. I got the rear tyre changed, or more accurately, I learned how to change a motorcycle tyre. With proper Motion Pro tools and plenty of information over the internet, I was able to put the new (old) tyre on my rear rim. I damaged a little bit the gold paint in the process. This is probably a mix of me learning and a no super quality paint job 😞 I need help from a colleague with a proper air compressor to put the bead in place. I did not balance it. It was not. I think the garage I went to put the original tyre back after the paint job does not have what it takes for single sided swingarm / automotive kind of wheel. Result is tyre does not touch the swingarm anymore which makes me feel safer so I started using it again. Odometer is currently around 99800 km. I do my best to shoot it at 00000km 😉 Also, I removed the dark tainted high screen for an original one. Wind protection feels better. With the high screen, I had all the air deflected right into my helmet which made the situation super noisy. Last but not least, my whole stable. All are currently usable 😁
  14. Thanks @JZH for the feedback. This seems like the same story for me. For sure, the tyre is good for a replacement, it has been manufactured in 2011 and it's pretty dry. I already felt it sliding at least twice on quick change of direction. I found a used Michelin Power 3 manufactured in 2017 in 180/55 size for 30€. Will get it and have it mounted then check that this one does not touch the swingarm. I measured consumption over my last tank. I only run for 6-8 km to go to work, mostly in lower gears so consumption has been pretty high: 7.75L/100km. This corresponds to 30.35mpg (which is pretty low). I hope a correct tyre will have a positive impact on fuel economy. I keep the bike parked until this is solved. I share the result with you, I hope during July 😉 TBC...
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