snowman11

That's a sharp looking bike. You will enjoy it for sure.

I've wanted to get some kind of cruise control or throttle lock for my bike for some time. After looking around, I found this one. It seems very simple to install and seems to work well according to the website. After receiving it, and taking it out of the package, I noticed that the included bolt was too large as it wouldn't even go into the end of the handle bar. No problem, after a quick trip to the hardware store, I just got a longer one than stock. The only other problem when installing it, I had to cut off the end of my grip, again no big deal. The bar end still fits which is also a good thing. Taking it out for a test ride, it works great! It's nice to take your right hand off the handle bars to rest it. I tried it out for about 10 miles and there was no problems. It took a little to adjust it with one hand, but over time it will be easier. Doing it when the bike is sitting still in the garage and then moving down the road is completely different. I'm glad I got this and I can't wait to try it on a long trip.

Thanks for the diagram. I actually have to replace the bulbs of my instrument cluster as half of them died last year. It made it difficult to ride at night as I couldn't see how fast I was going. I could only determine my speed with the RPM's. I'll give this a try.

It looks like the voltage is ok. Just have to figure out how to wire it so it comes on when I turn the bike on and goes off when the bike is off.

I'm looking forward to the riding season of 2020. I finally uncovered the bike, put the battery in and hit the start button. After a few cranks, it sputtered then died. Gave it some choke and it fired right up! I bought a volt meter (cheaper one from Amazon) and the bike is reading 12.9 volts when the bike is off, 14.4-14.5 volts at idol and 13.6 volts at about 5600 rpm which is highway cruising speeds. I'm just wondering if these voltages are ok? I cooked my battery and RR last year so I bought a used RR that came from a 91 with little miles from a member on this site and a new battery. The volt meter is just a two wire hook up so it's on all the time even if the bike is off. Is there any way to hook it up so it's off when the bike is off and comes on when the bike is turned on? I'm not too electrical so any instructions would be helpful. I haven't mounted it as I'm planning on putting down in the empty space below the tach.

I used a molding bar to form the new tabs. Just heat the molding bar in pot of water press it over a good tab and once it's cooled, the bar remains the shape. The Plastex kit came with a molding bar but I'm sure you can find these tabs at a local auto store. The tab can be used over and over again, just by heating it back up and reforming it to what ever shape you want. Yes I used all Plastex to make the new tabs. It's just a powder so once the molding bar is in place, I poured the powder into the cavity for the new tab and used the provided "glue" to wet the powder. I kept adding powder and "glue" until the tab was the right thickness. I've had the bike all fixed up for little over a week now and riding whenever the weather is nice. The new tabs are working just fine and you can't really tell from a distance. I'm very happy with how they came out. I might tough up the tabs with some paint over the winter, but for right now, I just want to get as much riding in as I can before the snow comes.

So I got the fairing support welded up and reinforced. I've got all the tabs "welded" back on and made some new tabs for the ones that were missing. I've replaced bolts and nuts that were missing and used the blue loctite so they won't come out again. Hopefully I'll have the bike back together by this weekend.

progress is moving along. I got the upper fairing bracket welded back together. This weekend I should get more repairs done to the plastic. As these fairings are harder and harder to fix and replace, one company Air Tech does make a full replacement of body panels for our bikes. https://www.airtech-streamlining.com/honda-fairings-seats-fenders-parts/VFR7501990-93.htm Has anyone actually purchased this kit? If so, how is the quality and fit? I'm not saying I would go this route, but it is nice to know at least one company makes body panels for us. Any thoughts?

Gebruiker - here is the link of my resurrection of the bike if you wanted to see it.

No I don't think the bike fell over, you would have seen pieces of plastic on the ground and other damage to other areas of the bike. I think it's just fatigue. I've had very good luck with Plastex. I'll keep posting pictures of my progress as I work on it.

I love my bike. If you have been on here for awhile, you will now that I bought a laid down and flooded bike and got her back up and running like a champ. I had to plastic weld almost all the plastic as it's so hard or impossible to find new or almost new ones now a days. Since getting the bike up and running 5 years ago, I've put on almost 14,000 miles, mostly commuting back and forth to work on the express ways. 86 miles round trip averaging 75mph. Very minor problems during the past 5 years, only needing to replace the R/R and a new battery. Well I noticed yesterday before I left for work, that the front nose fairing was sticking out from behind the upper left fairing. I thought that was odd, so I managed to pop it back into place and continued onto work. When I got to work, I noticed it was popped back out. Put it back in and placed a piece of packing tape over it until I could get home. When I got home, I inspected this fairing and started to notice that I had multiple other broken tabs all over the front of the bike. One of the upper fairing bolts was almost completely out and there was something loose under the upper right fairing. Started to take apart the front end and noticed that all but the mid right fairing had something broken. I'm so glad the body panels didn't fly off while I was riding. That would have sucked! The loose piece under the upper fairing? Yeah, the upper fairing bracket support had broken off from the frame. The bolt was still there, but I have no idea how this would have broken. I never got into an accident or hit anything. The stay was brand new when I got the bike. Is it possible to reweld this together while still on the bike or does it need to come off? I also noticed that one of the bolts connecting this stay to the stem bearing area was missing! So it's time again to do some plastic welding. The good thing is that the fairing didn't break where I previously plastic welded them before. I use Plastex and it works great. The first time I used Plastex, I had the white powder. This time I'm using black powder. I wish fairings for our bikes were easier to get. At almost 30 years old, these plastic panels get brittle. Hopefully all the panels will get fixed soon. There is still more time to ride left this year.

I've had excellent results with Plastex. http://www.plastex.net/ I've had to fix most of the tabs on my rebuild and this stuff is great. It comes with a molding bar so you can make a mold of the one side and transfer it to other. I've broken this same part and fixed. Plastex also comes in different colors.

Sweet looking bike. Finding one in such good shape is hard, but then again the previous owner probably new it was a special bike and wanted to keep it that way. Not sure why he would want to sell it. His loss your gain. I hope that you enjoy it. Tell me how the suspension rework goes. Mine is all original and I think mine rides pretty good. Mine just has over 11,500 miles on it now.

I've got the MRA version on mine and I like it. It does cause a little more turbulence but it's not that bad. This came from overseas and it took about 3 months to get. I ordered it during the winter so waiting for it to come wasn't an issue.