rhoderage

Yes it will work in a 5g https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/87794-cheaper-gear-indicator-option-for-the-vfr800/

This was noted in the 5th gen forum but the post is now archived https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/87794-cheaper-gear-indicator-option-for-the-vfr800/ I purchased and installed it for my 2002 6-gen and it was easy, relatively cheap (compared to Healtech), and works. It is clearly a replication of the Healtech piece. Got it from the bay, example 173434031141, from seller knightshousestore. About $50 to Canada (I made an offer and got it a few bucks less than advertised). I don't think a full how-to is necessary, but here are a few key things I noted along the way: Unit comes with instruction sheet which appear to be a cut&paste of Healtech GIpro X-type G2 install (GPX-H01). https://healtech-electronics.com/docs/GPX_H01_InstallGuide_en.pdf If you have a SpeedoDRD or SpeedoHealer etc, follow the Healtech directions, bike male plug -> gear indicator -> speedoDRD/healer -> bike female plug. Worked for me. Take off your right side fairing and lift the fuel tank for easy access to the areas you need. [I also removed seat and negative battery cable as I had other wiring to do.] I chose to first attach the gear indicator to the dash... then ran the wiring and cable tied it along the way down to the connection points. I figured this was easiest to ensure I had it positioned where I wanted on the dash, and actually the wiring was the perfect length for the VFR, no real extra to tie up. 2 white plugs connect into bike right below the coolant tank, the 3pin 'natural' (clear-ish) connector, that has an output line from the speed sensor. Very straightforward. The green wire, which is separate from the white plugs, connects to your Yellow/Green (yellow with thin green stripe) wire at your ECU by the instructions. Tracing the wire in the wiring diagram shows it goes into the big grey connector (adjacent to the big blue connector, above your left side rad). I spliced in here with the connector the kit provided. One little silliness was the kit has a loom wrap for all of the wiring down to the speed sensor plugs. Well thats good but the green wire needs to connect much further upline. I of course didnt pay attention to this until after the wires were run and all of my cable ties were in place :) . I simply slit open the cable loom where I needed the wire, and then cut it off and prepared for the connection. Re-wrapped the loom in electrical tape. Follow the learning sequence! Its kinda important (guess how I know?) If you want an easy to install gear indicator, you can't beat it for the price.

Installed mine yesterday as my voltmeter & USB arrived via slow China post... great part made by TT. Install of everything was super easy, spent more time on the wire routing than anything else. (I have since cleaned up the jumble of red/blue on the lower left)

I sent Jamie my forks for him to install his kit and also got one of his rebuilt CBR shocks... worth every penny, and he was great to deal with and for any support after the fact. Also no issues shipping from Canada to him and back. I'd do it again and I'd have full confidence in buying his new product.

all leads correctly plugged in to spark plugs?

Just wanted to update and say thanks again for the detail... with the kickstand up eliminating my issue temporarily, I am feeling less rushed to do this... I'm waiting for a few electrical parts to arrive (gear indicator, voltmeter, USB port) and will probably get at this all at once and just pull the fairings and make a day of it. When i get it done i will come back and post. Again, appreciate the detail and I will be following the steps above.

Thank you for the detailed reply. I always start the bike with the clutch lever pulled in, and always in Neutral, and in all instances referred to on the sidestand. Neutral light functions properly at all times I'm not great with electrical diagrams so any help in the right direction is greatly appreciated. I do have a multimeter - havent used it much - but I can follow instructions

Curious for your input on this one... I've been chasing an odd starting problem over the past 2 summers. With battery fully charged (via battery tender), sometimes when I press the start button nothing happens. The dash lights will dim a little like its trying to crank but silence. This happens sporadically, certainly not every time, and in 95% of cases after trying a few times it will eventually just fire up properly. My starter relay was replaced 3 years ago with OEM, I've checked it and its good. So is all wiring in that area, Honda replaced the battery harness and all that junk, and I've changed out the fuses and replaced the crispy wiring in that area. This does not seem to be the source. I also replaced the actual handlebar switch assembly, as the starter button was cracked in half when I bought the bike (just did the switch assembly this winter, I've had the bike 8 years and this problem existed before and after changing this out) I've pulled the power lead off the starter and cleaned up the connection there, no issue. Checked all the wiring to and from, no issue. **What I noticed the other day - it was having one of these moments, and I put the kickstand up, and it started. WTF. I always start in Neutral with the clutch engaged. In this exact state, raising the kickstand then allowed the bike to fire up. Tried again a couple of times since when it was being finicky and by putting the kickstand up it has fired up immediately each time I tried, after failing to start with it down. (80% of the time bike starts fine with kickstand down) Maybe I'm misunderstanding the kickstand switch but I thought it would kill the bike, if it was faulty shouldnt I be having issues running not just on the occasional start? A little perplexed, interested in your thoughts.

Good solution, but any reason not to just dremel out the sides of both openings ("speed holes") a little wider to allow the clearance and have a visual match? Seems to me it may look better than bent plastic. Trying to save up the $ myself for a set for my 6g...

Interested if you could post up any tips from the process.. I have a 2002 as well at ~40k miles, I haven't opened the stator in the time I've owned it, so unkown status. I wasn't sure what exactly is required to change to the 'updated' (03+) stator, but at some point I'll have to get in there

Its a fair point, but the same could be said when I purchased the bike with >40,000km on it...

1. I dont want to pay $800-1000 CAD... I can literally get a replacement engine for half that if need be, which I doubt will be necessary 2. I don't trust the Honda dealer to do it (the same old story, every time the bike goes in they forget fairing clips, or don't torque something to spec, etc... generally rushed/sloppy work) But when I finally have my garage built next year, I will attempt to do it myself over the winter for peace of mind. It sounds like an involved process, but I've done valves before on 'regular' (non-VTEC) engines, and with space and time I suspect I could do this. Going back to factors 1 & 2, and for those with no workshop (like myself currently), I absolutely get why so many aren't doing this.

Scary stuff... outstanding job keeping it on two wheels after taking an impact and damage like that.

Looks great

Search craigslist / ebay / kijiji until you find good used at the right price. Got my Leo Vince in carbon fibre, in as-new condition, for $375 after maybe a year of regularly watching online...