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Vtec Engine Damage, Any Ideas?


Dutchy

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Over on the german forum, a 6th gen with less than 20k miles developed problems after some high speed run on the Autobahn.
Loss of power and a ticking sound.

He lifted the airbox and found that the right rear cilinder has been pushing oil in the airbox.
he has a suspicion and will start stripping in the morning.
he is solliciting tips/ideas....

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Ideas?

Tell'im to slow down :491:

I can only think of borked rings, but I don't know much.

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Are you sure it's not just the PCV leaking oil into the airbox? The ticking may be the cam chain tensioner lifter making noise. If the oil level is too high, it will put oil in the airbox. That little compartment next to the intake funnel is for the PCV.

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PCV vents high crankcase pressure into the air box. It's at the right rear of the box, kinda in the middle of the oil stains. (Positive Crankcase Ventilation???)

Could be loosing power due to sucking oil into the combustion, and ticking from the cam chain tensioner as Lint suggested.

Alternatively to venting into the air box, he could stick a separate air filter onto the vent hose and plug the hole into the air box. Popular performance modification in street bikes that are run hard, and race bikes.

After checking the cam chain tensioners and cleaning the air box, of course...
Probably check the plugs for oil too.

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Its normal for a little oil film in that area, you might be bordering on too much, a severely high oil volume (not slightly) would increase oil film there. But nothing in that picture will pose an engine issue, unless Im not seeing a large amount being sucked into the throttle body.

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The oil is from the breather... before you do anything first establish if the tick is timed with crankshaft speed or cam shaft speed... next pin point the suspect area with a log handle screw driver help up against your ear... it works like a stethoscope...

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PCV vents high crankcase pressure into the air box. It's at the right rear of the box, kinda in the middle of the oil stains. (Positive Crankcase Ventilation???)

I had an instance on my 6th Gen when I took it in to my local Honda main dealer to complete it's 1st 16k service (valve shims only). Got it back and it was burning oil and spitting it out of the exhaust covering any following riders. When I took the cam cover off, they'd dropped one of the little collars that sit in the oilways between the top of the block and the cam cover. Luckily for me, it hadn't dropped into the engine but was stuck in an oilway and I managed to retrieve & replace it.

The inside of my airbox looked remarkably similar to that in the OP. I'm not suggesting this is what has happened here, the picture just looked remarkably similar.

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PCV vents high crankcase pressure into the air box. It's at the right rear of the box, kinda in the middle of the oil stains. (Positive Crankcase Ventilation???)

I had an instance on my 6th Gen when I took it in to my local Honda main dealer to complete it's 1st 16k service (valve shims only). Got it back and it was burning oil and spitting it out of the exhaust covering any following riders. When I took the cam cover off, they'd dropped one of the little collars that sit in the oilways between the top of the block and the cam cover. Luckily for me, it hadn't dropped into the engine but was stuck in an oilway and I managed to retrieve & replace it.

The inside of my airbox looked remarkably similar to that in the OP. I'm not suggesting this is what has happened here, the picture just looked remarkably similar.

It always pays to have your bike serviced by the dealer !!! >G they should pay you for the opportunity to screw it up.

You know on second look, that oil dispersion looks not good, why all whitish looking and its hosing the whole back of the air box..

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Not good looks like piston to valve contact. Start it and open the oil filler plug and see how much pressure is in the crank case .

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Well, he started stripping the engine, will keep yall posted.

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If he's going to do all that work I would just pop in a used motor and be done and riding the next day!

PS that oil from the breather is fairly normal, especially afyer long term high speed runs and if oil level was slightly high would cause more blow by.

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and the answer is..............................

.

One plug shot out, thread in block destroyed.

a second plug damaged the thread insode the block but he reccons it is repairable.

Look away if you do not like seeing a VFR in distress..... :goofy:

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EDIT

forgot to put in the post, he reckons the previous owner WAY over tightened the spark-plugs, stripping the thread...

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What can possibly cause that!

P.S.

I've taken my 6th gen to the as fast as it would go land and the RPMs aren't that high at that point. Add the fact that the engine is under very comfortable load, I'd say that the bike felt well within its comfort zone. Me, another story.

Something other than the high speed run must have caused the damage.

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forgot to put in the post, he reckons the previous owner WAY over tightened the spark-plugs, stripping the thread...

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Wow! Now that's just abuse!! I am with BR on this one, just swap motors and ride the next day. Not worth the time and effort to fix this one. Remind me not to buy a used motorcycle from that guy... or the previous owner of that poor thing.

C

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You will probably find that someone for a change did the 16K valve check &/or did the plugs & rather than being over tightened, the plug was only finger tight, that would explain the damage to the coil, 4K miles of blow by through the thread eroding it until it finally failed ! :(

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Should I point to another example, of a new plug coming loose.

Torque a new plug and then break loose and re torque

the new gasket does not fully seat on the first torqueing and will continue to compress, equaling potential loose plug down the road.

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A loose plug will eventually wear all of the threads out of the head via millions of vibrations, ask me how I know. I have never had this problem with any other vehicle over the last 35 years of changing and cleaning plugs. I'd advise folks to check their plug torque with a good quality torque wrench, both at install time, plus at intervals afterwards.

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...

Torque a new plug and then break loose and re torque

...

Not a good idea... spark plug gaskets are made to compress once, they are a crush gasket. Check & re-check torques like Mohawk suggested but don't intentionally crush the spark plug gasket, loosen and re-seat. It will work but it is not how the plug/gasket was designed. If it is, please name one manufacturer of engines or plugs that recommends this installation technique.

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