Member Contributer alleyoop Posted August 6, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 6, 2015 I'm hoping that a fuel controller (don't have one) won't be necessary after the reflash. Since Guhl is able to install a fuel map for my exhaust, I really don't think it will. Don can install a custom map for your setup. Just let him know what you have and that's it. I also have the Dam exhaust and he re-mapped mine as well. It rides perfect now, since I had Jamie Daugherty do my suspension too. Good to know. I have my ECU back from Guhl now and did indicate that I wanted the fuel map for the DAM Exhaust as well as decat. Still waiting for my forks to give it a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devorlast Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 How to contact Guhl? I will be getting my ECU out next weekend, finally decided to give the re-flash a chance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 the only reason to have a fuel module along with the reflash is if you plan on fine tuning it on the dyno later or installing an auto tune.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devorlast Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 I got my PCV and the autotune before I ever heard about the reflash option. Besides if you switch your exhaust or anything else on the engine side PCV lets you configure the fueling yourself instead of pulling out the ECU and shipping it somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 i also had the fuel module (Bazzaz Z-Fi) installed before the reflash, so Don did not install a new map in the ECU......having a fuel module doesn't mean that you don't want to do the reflash also,...it made a huge difference on top of the existing fuel map Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer luvtoleanit Posted August 14, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 14, 2015 the only reason to have a fuel module along with the reflash is if you plan on fine tuning it on the dyno later or installing an auto tune.... If you decat the exhaust then a PC is necessary. Generic maps are generic maps so Don's map he can install is just a guess or ballpark type map. Fine tuning to your actual engine requires a PC so you can adjust on the dyno. Now if we had an interface to the ECU that could be used on the dyno, that would be perfect but then your local dyno operator wouldn't want to mess with it :( I'd say if you are just going to run a slip-on and never do anything else to it then Don's map may be a solution. Fueling won't be perfect however and for the good of the engine/valves, I'd rather get a custom map made. I flashed my ECU, removed the cat, tuned it on a dyno and installed an auto-tune to make corrections to my map when I leave my geographic area. Few hundred extra but the best solution for engine longevity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devorlast Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Sent an email to Don, should be ready to send the ECU next Monday. I am having high hopes now that I know that the low RPM "lag", or whatever to call that weird drive behavior, is caused by the fueling and ECU restrictions. I always thought it was the DCT clutch having a crappy sensor and activating/deactivating at low/no throttle openings and low speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer alleyoop Posted August 19, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 19, 2015 the only reason to have a fuel module along with the reflash is if you plan on fine tuning it on the dyno later or installing an auto tune.... If you decat the exhaust then a PC is necessary. Generic maps are generic maps so Don's map he can install is just a guess or ballpark type map. Fine tuning to your actual engine requires a PC so you can adjust on the dyno. Now if we had an interface to the ECU that could be used on the dyno, that would be perfect but then your local dyno operator wouldn't want to mess with it :( I'd say if you are just going to run a slip-on and never do anything else to it then Don's map may be a solution. Fueling won't be perfect however and for the good of the engine/valves, I'd rather get a custom map made. I flashed my ECU, removed the cat, tuned it on a dyno and installed an auto-tune to make corrections to my map when I leave my geographic area. Few hundred extra but the best solution for engine longevity. Did you dyno after the decat and the Guhl ECU? If so, what was your air-to-fuel ratio and what did you aim for? In other words, how much did you correct it? I'm doing the decat and putting the bike back together this week. I asked and Guhl programmed the ECU specifically for a decat (and my DAM slip-on). Tuning the specific bike is more perfect. But I'm hoping that his ECU tuning for the VFR1200, DAM fuel map, and decat programming will be close enough that I won't need to add a fuel controller. As long as the throttle is smooth, I'll be a happy camper. But I might still do a dyno run just out of curiosity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynajohn Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 I used 13/1 AF ratio target for tuning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devorlast Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 I have the ECU out. Could not get a hold of Don over the past week so I will call them Monday to see about the shipping address and payment method etc. While at it I decided to clean the air filter and replace the gaskets on the PAIR mod covers. Some guy at O'Rileys sold me this gasket material last year when I did the mod and apparently it got pretty burnt and cracked over time. I got the red silicone that was recommended for gasket material, I will try to use that this time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer alleyoop Posted August 26, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 26, 2015 I got the ECU installed and took the first test ride on Sunday. Results are preliminary. But I can tell you that the bike would previously stutter and stall in 2nd at low RPM. Now it will pull from all the way from 1500. And there's a new and significant kick in the pants when shifting to 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Throttle so far seems very smooth, and I'm having no complaints. My only wish would be a slightly faster turn, as you really have to wring it to get full power at speed in the upper gears. Also installed the full exhaust (no cat) with DAM slip-on. MAJOR difference in sound and tone. It's able to keep relatively quiet around the neighborhood but goes into MotoGP beast mode when revved. Maybe a little louder than I expected. :) A nice optional and easy-to-install noise limiter (baffle) came with it that I might use. At this point in time, I see NO need for an additional fuel controller. Maybe over time if I get bored and want to squeeze the last 2% out of it, I might install one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f3racer Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 R6 throttle tube will fix the issue with the throttle turn. Ive done it on every bike ive owned to include my vfr12. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 R6 throttle tube will fix the issue with the throttle turn. Ive done it on every bike ive owned to include my vfr12. does that fit without modifications ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marriedman Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Showing my ignorance here, but what is the difference between the R6 throttle tube and any other bike? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 steeper cam angle opens throttle in less rotation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted August 26, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted August 26, 2015 YAMAHA - GRIP ASSY Manufacturer Brand New, Genuine Yamaha Part Manufacturer Part# 2BS-26240-00-00 Item Number OEM1127841 $8.11MSRP $11.27 Hmmm Yamaha on the right . And some like the R1 better. "Instead of the R6 throttle tube I used the 2007 R1 throttle with partnumber 4C8-26240-00-00 for I read in several forums that this version a 1/5 turn which is between the 1/4 and R6 1/6 turn." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 my 2010 never did anything at all like stuttering or stalling at low rpm in 2nd gear.......it just had the restrictions (no power between 4000-6000 rpm } .....i didn't add the Z-Fi until 17,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crakerjac Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 Couldn't imagine the 1200 at the track without the reflash or z-bomb. It's just a more pleasurable experience now. As far as throttle tubes go, I went the other direction with a G2 Throttle Tamer so it opens slower up to 25% throttle. But you have to trim about 1/4 inch off the G2 tube to make it work. Sent from my OnePlus One using Forum Fiend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 i just bought this R6 grip http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-2C0-26240-00-00.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 i tried installing R6 throttle tube today....couldn't free up enough freeplay for cables to reach....did you have this problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devorlast Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 I got the ECU back, installed it Thursday and I can definitely see a difference. 1'st and 2'nd gear are A LOT smoother, no more stuttering and acting up on low revs or when accelerating. Going from 0 to 60 seems a lot faster, I never clocked myself before so that might be just my imagination though. I only removed the gear restrictions and top speed, did not touch the rest of the settings that Don can change. My only whine might be that I mailed the ECU Monday with a sticky that had my phone number and information, than when I called next Monday worried the package got lost they told me it arrived already and they can ship it Tuesday soonest. I got the ECU Thursday with shipping date of Wednesday, didn't bother me a lot but I was hoping to get the whole thing done a few days earlier so I wouldn't have to use my wifes car to get to work. So overall I am very satisfied, the extra power is there but it is not making me worried that I will slip in rain or anything as it's more subtle increase than I expected after some comments on this forum. Next on my radar for next year is suspension upgrade/tunning and headlight/taillight mods, maybe some red LED's for accent too. I am slowly starting to run out of ideas on what else can I mess with on my VFR :D . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RC1237V Posted September 14, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted September 14, 2015 Nice upgrade very well worth the money! No issues whatsoever! Even with my mods he (Don Guhl) nailed it the first time, I'm a very happy customer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rider14 Posted March 18, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted March 18, 2016 Bringing back old threads isn't really my style, but searching didn't reveal any suggestions/instructions re: ECU removal. Might be in this thread (haven't read it in a while) but searching didn't come up with much... Going to pull the fairings in the coming days to wire up my USB outlet and battery monitor (install the factory multi-plug harness for up to 4 fused power sources) and figured I'd do the ECU reflash while I'm in there... Any suggestions? How to's? Will be watching the fairing removal video a few times first, of course... Thanks in advance -Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Marsman99 Posted March 19, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted March 19, 2016 Bringing back old threads isn't really my style, but searching didn't reveal any suggestions/instructions re: ECU removal. Might be in this thread (haven't read it in a while) but searching didn't come up with much... Going to pull the fairings in the coming days to wire up my USB outlet and battery monitor (install the factory multi-plug harness for up to 4 fused power sources) and figured I'd do the ECU reflash while I'm in there... Any suggestions? How to's? Will be watching the fairing removal video a few times first, of course... Thanks in advance -Dan Get the tank propped up in the front and you'll see it just in front of the air box. It is a rectangular black box with four connectors attached to the top. Pull it up and remove the connectors...easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 DCT has 4 connectors ....manual has 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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