Marsman99

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Hi Marsman99, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Hi Anonymous, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

The manual provides the gaps spec's for either side of an exhaust rocker arm. You can use either gap spec. to make your adjustment via the adjuster screw. The adjuster screw is the only adjustment for an exhaust rocker arm. #1 is an intake cam lobe for cyl. 2, gap adjusted via shim. #2 is an exhaust adjuster for cyl. 2, set gap at the valve end or the roller end per the respective gap spec. #3 is the roller end of an exhaust rocker for cyl. 3. Follow this rocker arm to the right to find the adjuster, adjust using respective gap spec for either end.

Rocker arm is not removed. Start at the red circle and follow the rocker arm to the other end. There is a locknut and adjuster screw there...clearly visible in the photo. Use them to adjust the gap between the cam lobe and roller. Just like a see-saw...right side up, left side down. So, if you have too large a gap at the cam/roller, just loosen locknut and screw the adjuster CW. Did I mention the PAIR o-rings...

There is a set screw and lock nut on the other side of the exhaust roller arm that adjusts the exhaust valve roller/cam gap. Be sure to replace the PAIR o-rings and use grease to hold them in place during install, or you'll end up with this:

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Ah, a lights on moment. Yes, a leaky PAIR o-ring would allow top end oil into the exhaust port and burned in the exhaust gas. I'm usually pretty careful during reassembly, but will check this now. This could be more pronounced on decel when the PAIR pushes air into the exhaust port. Thanks. Miguel may want to look at this too.

C5ip, I read on another thread regarding valve adjusts someone commented on burning oil because dealer forgot a seal on the back cover. This loops me back to your comment. Did your bike burn oil or leak oil w/o the seal? I can't recall any seals that are touched during valve adjust which would permit oil into the combustion chamber or exhaust.

Nope, there are no leaks anywhere that I can see...on the bike or floor. I'm going to tear into it this weekend to try to figure it out.

Yeah, it is. My 1200 has roughly 46.5k miles on it. Oil/filters changed per Honda service intervals, i.e. every 8k. Should not be having any such issues...it's a VFR after all. My '94 has >120k on it and doesn't lose a drop of oil. I'll be keeping tabs very closely now and doing some testing.

Very interested in anything you've come up with Miguel. My 1200 has been puffing a small bit of oil smoke on start up. Been doing this over the last 2 oil changes. Oil level drops in the sight glass between changes but has never dropped below low mark...so I've carried on. Two days ago after a bit of twisty road, the oil pressure light came on. Pulled over and saw no oil in sight glass. Had Mrs. Marsman bring out a few qts., and it took 1 3/4 to fill. I'm still 1500 miles from next scheduled change, so it has gotten significantly worse. Not absolutely sure, but seems to have started rou

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Yikes. That does not sound "normal", though I haven't replicated your test. There is driveline lash, but that sounds excessive. Have you had the recall done yet?

Interesting read, thanks Ishark. It's a nit, and I assume obvious, but in the repair procedure they don't specifically mention replacing the affected shaft with the countermeasure shaft in the VFR1200 F/FD section as they do on page 11 in the VFR1200X_XD section.Looks like a lot of work to be done for roughly an hour of labor as allowed in the recall bulletin. Also, at least in Australia, no one can buy a 1200 from a dealer until this repair is done. Pretty sure simiiar law applies elsewhere. On the first page of the recall bulletin they state these are the affected units by VIN: Affecte