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Marsman99

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About Marsman99

  • Rank
    World Superbike Racer

Profile Information

  • Location
    Escondido, CA
  • In My Garage:
    7th Gen DCT, 4th Gen VFR,
    Duc 996SPS, Duc M696
    CRF250X

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  1. That's the fuel pump. Perfectly normal.
  2. New tires are great. OEM seat isn't. You'll need to go custom to make it comfortable for a passenger.
  3. Best not to mix brands if you're swapping out a front. Better to replace both at the same time too, though I eat fronts faster and have on occasion replaced the front with same make because the rear was still near new. I can vouch that both Micheln PR's and Dunlop Roadsmarts work very well with the 1200. Great steering, grip, brake stability and mileage. Might give the Angel GT a try next as I spooned a set on the Gen4 and love them so far. I have never felt the 1200 was hard to steer, except when new...the OEM tires were crap. It's a heavy bike, but remarkably nimb
  4. Wow. This is a paradigm shift for Gen7 owners. Good info indeed. I assume he can eliminate the top speed restriction, install maps and adjust coolant temp. too?
  5. The cat is the rectangular can under the bike. See photo. Removing or altering it would almost certainly be detected during an emissions test...that's the point of a catalytic converter. No fuel controller such as the Bazzaz unit will fix the 1-2 gear restrictions, it's coded into the ECU. For the DCT, Guhl is the only solution. I believe Guhl ships worldwide, so the logistics are really just shipping to/fro. If you can get all the body work off and tilt the tank up, you can easily remove/replace the ECU. You'll love getting the bodywork off the first time... Buy some of the
  6. Doc, The OEM rear tire is a 190/55. If you have a 190/50 on the rear you'll observe roughly 5% higher readings on the speedo. Add normal speedo error and you could be as high as 10% off. The 50 profile is probably going to make the rear turn-in a little more effort as well. Sounds like you're sorting out a plan for your bike. In that context, I offer what I did. Perhaps you'll find it useful. After getting to know the bike, and reading all the input from the Gen7 pioneers on this site, my mod priorities became: 1) Suspension - OEM suspension was terrible. OE
  7. Thanks for clarifying this. I left my servo on too when I removed the cable to install an aftermarket muffler but wasn't sure if the flapper stayed open on an OEM muffler if you just removed the cable.
  8. Hi Marsman99, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  9. Hey Doc, I like your choice in bikes. I've got 78K on my 2010 1200FD and believe it is one of the best bikes I've owned, though not without some idiosyncrasies. There is lot of content on this forum from 1200 owners that you can search, but I'll give you some quick answers to your posted questions. Yes, Sport mode does have odd shift points sometimes. It does hold 3rd for quite a long time when I use it but it seems to vary depending on the circumstances. For the most part I don't use S mode. I find it easier to paddle shift when I want to be sporty and then click into D
  10. Make sure you replace and position the PAIR o-rings properly. If you notice you're burning oil afterwards, that'll be the reason.
  11. You basically have three options: 1. Use a box end wrench and estimate the torque. Torque spec is 9 lbs-ft...not much. 2. Use a torque adapter, which might not be long enough. 3. Use a Motion Pro adapter that allows use of a std. box end wrench as an adapter. You'll need to do the measurement of wrench length and requisite math. I went with 1 and it's worked out fine.
  12. Hi Anonymous, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  13. The manual provides the gaps spec's for either side of an exhaust rocker arm. You can use either gap spec. to make your adjustment via the adjuster screw. The adjuster screw is the only adjustment for an exhaust rocker arm. #1 is an intake cam lobe for cyl. 2, gap adjusted via shim. #2 is an exhaust adjuster for cyl. 2, set gap at the valve end or the roller end per the respective gap spec. #3 is the roller end of an exhaust rocker for cyl. 3. Follow this rocker arm to the right to find the adjuster, adjust using respective gap spec for either end.
  14. Rocker arm is not removed. Start at the red circle and follow the rocker arm to the other end. There is a locknut and adjuster screw there...clearly visible in the photo. Use them to adjust the gap between the cam lobe and roller. Just like a see-saw...right side up, left side down. So, if you have too large a gap at the cam/roller, just loosen locknut and screw the adjuster CW. Did I mention the PAIR o-rings...
  15. There is a set screw and lock nut on the other side of the exhaust roller arm that adjusts the exhaust valve roller/cam gap. Be sure to replace the PAIR o-rings and use grease to hold them in place during install, or you'll end up with this:
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