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Marsman99

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About Marsman99

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  • Location
    Escondido, CA
  • In My Garage:
    VFR's: 4th Gen, 7th Gen DCT,
    Duc 996SPS, Duc M696
    CRF250X

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  1. On my 1200 the limit on bar height and angle are the cables and the front fairing at full lock. I have Helibars and they are a definite improvement, but it took every bit of the available envelope to get it. Could use another inch in height...story of my life.
  2. AZ7Gener - See attached. Pulled out one of the covers. Dutchy - Would need a pretty large baby-blue to cover that far back. 🤢
  3. I haven't seen anything to cover up the mount when the box is off, but it would be a nice option now that you mention it. I see that you don't have any of the four hole covers on your mount. I had to silicone mine on since the fit of the covers was so loose.
  4. ThatGuy, The following might help in your eval: I just rolled 100K miles on my 2010, which I bought new in 2014. My mileage has been roughly 70% commute and 30% sport. The commute has been all freeway between 70-80 mph, while the sport riding has been long road trips (>2K miles) through the western US, all windy country, canyon and mountain roads. The bike has been flawless, not a single issue other than an oil leak that was self-inflicted. Other than standard maintenance it is true to the VFR line in terms of fit, finish and reliability. I bought the DCT and have to say it is awesome. Obviously for the commute, but even better in the corners. Once you get the hang of paddle shifting, banging a shift mid corner under power or de-accel without chassis upset feels, well, like cheating. The DCT is a polarizing option, but most that don't like it probably haven't spent much time on it. As Skids says, it is a heavy bike but for me only noticeable in parking lots and in the tightest of successive corners. Anything else and this thing is a rock, a powerful rock. I've copied most of the mods detailed by the pioneer 1200 owners on this very site (I think the archives still exist). The stock suspension sucks and there are plenty of good options for upgrade. I went with DMr front and back and they have been a great option considering price/performance. That would be the first fix I'd recommend.
  5. Miguel, I'll add my voice to the chorus of thank you's for all you've done for the site and the members. I've benefitted immensely over the last decade. I hope the site gets a new life somewhere and if so you can hang out as a member. To those members with the wherewithal and knowledge to save the site, please count me in for financial support, or anything else I can do to keep this going.
  6. Hi Marsman99, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  7. Hi Anonymous, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  8. Hi Marsman99, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  9. Hi Anonymous, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  10. The manual provides the gaps spec's for either side of an exhaust rocker arm. You can use either gap spec. to make your adjustment via the adjuster screw. The adjuster screw is the only adjustment for an exhaust rocker arm. #1 is an intake cam lobe for cyl. 2, gap adjusted via shim. #2 is an exhaust adjuster for cyl. 2, set gap at the valve end or the roller end per the respective gap spec. #3 is the roller end of an exhaust rocker for cyl. 3. Follow this rocker arm to the right to find the adjuster, adjust using respective gap spec for either end.
  11. Rocker arm is not removed. Start at the red circle and follow the rocker arm to the other end. There is a locknut and adjuster screw there...clearly visible in the photo. Use them to adjust the gap between the cam lobe and roller. Just like a see-saw...right side up, left side down. So, if you have too large a gap at the cam/roller, just loosen locknut and screw the adjuster CW. Did I mention the PAIR o-rings...
  12. There is a set screw and lock nut on the other side of the exhaust roller arm that adjusts the exhaust valve roller/cam gap. Be sure to replace the PAIR o-rings and use grease to hold them in place during install, or you'll end up with this:
  13. Hi Marsman99, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  14. Ah, a lights on moment. Yes, a leaky PAIR o-ring would allow top end oil into the exhaust port and burned in the exhaust gas. I'm usually pretty careful during reassembly, but will check this now. This could be more pronounced on decel when the PAIR pushes air into the exhaust port. Thanks. Miguel may want to look at this too.
  15. C5ip, I read on another thread regarding valve adjusts someone commented on burning oil because dealer forgot a seal on the back cover. This loops me back to your comment. Did your bike burn oil or leak oil w/o the seal? I can't recall any seals that are touched during valve adjust which would permit oil into the combustion chamber or exhaust.
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