Marsman99

Does anybody know how to contact Prez aka Satariel who made the ECC unit for the 1200’s? His real name is Przemyslaw Jaworski. His ECC unit has been great but recently lost a rubber cover on one of the switches. I need his help on a replacement.

FWIW, I had about 96K on my 1200 DCT when I gifted it to my son. Not a single issue that wasn’t self inflicted. I think your sitch is very unusual, I would think the VFR community would be very interested in knowing what you find is the root cause.

Maybe it’s just my suspicious nature, but it seems unusual that a 1200DCT with <5K miles is selling for a mere $3K…and the seller lost both OEM keys? I’d start by running the VIN before I put a dime into it. https://www.nicb.org/vincheck If it checks out, it’s a steal.

Sadly, I too have decided to depart with my beloved 1200. I signed over the title this weekend to my son (he’s ecstatic). After enjoying it for 11 years, I just couldn’t take the literal pain in my neck anymore...from just a few hours in the saddle now. From the outset, I added all the parts to raise the bars, deflect wind, etc. Worked great for a decade, but the last year was a tipping point as age finally took its toll. I’m moving on to an ADV bike for an upright seating position and level reach to the bars. The big VFR has helped establish some requirements though. First, gotta be a shafty - no chain maintenance is a gift from the gods. Second, gotta have clutchless shifting. After the DCT, I’m spoiled. Not the same I know, but close. Third, gotta have the power/handling to run with all my buddies who have switched to Multistradas. Which is a requirement on its own sort of…I don’t want to be another Multi rider in the group…though it is a great bike. That leaves the big GS or Tiger 1200, though for some reason the Pan American intrigues me - but it's shaftless. I have actually thought about going the route Skids went - getting a 1200X (with DCT). They can be had for about $5K US and meet the above requirements. True, they lack the electronic gadgets and active suspension, but I don’t really need that stuff. This would leave a lot of $ for upgrades to suspension, fueling, exhaust etc. and it comes with the monster motor and DCT!

Damn, I just got the letter too. My bike is in Phoenix for a few months. Anybody know a reputable Honda dealer there?

Strange the recall is listed on the NHTSA recall site, but not on Honda’s recall site. Maybe this is Honda's way of saying they’re not fixing it.

Might want to consider a fuse block that that includes switched and direct fused connections. If you plan to add accessories, this is the cat’s meow. One example: https://twistedthrottle.com/shop/electronics/fuse-blocks/denali-powerhub2-power-distribution-module/ BTW, Heated grips - meh. Heated gloves - yeah! I rarely, use my OEM heated grips as I haven’t found a pair of gloves I like that have minimal insulation on the palm and the needed insulation on top. With all around insulated gloves my palm cooks, my fingers stay cold. On the other hand, heated gloves are lighter weight and evenly distribute the heat. Yeah, the connection is a bit of a hassle, but they work well. Nice looking Gen7. Who makes the top case you have on there?

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On my 1200 the limit on bar height and angle are the cables and the front fairing at full lock. I have Helibars and they are a definite improvement, but it took every bit of the available envelope to get it. Could use another inch in height...story of my life.

AZ7Gener - See attached. Pulled out one of the covers. Dutchy - Would need a pretty large baby-blue to cover that far back. 🤢

I haven't seen anything to cover up the mount when the box is off, but it would be a nice option now that you mention it. I see that you don't have any of the four hole covers on your mount. I had to silicone mine on since the fit of the covers was so loose.

ThatGuy, The following might help in your eval: I just rolled 100K miles on my 2010, which I bought new in 2014. My mileage has been roughly 70% commute and 30% sport. The commute has been all freeway between 70-80 mph, while the sport riding has been long road trips (>2K miles) through the western US, all windy country, canyon and mountain roads. The bike has been flawless, not a single issue other than an oil leak that was self-inflicted. Other than standard maintenance it is true to the VFR line in terms of fit, finish and reliability. I bought the DCT and have to say it is awesome. Obviously for the commute, but even better in the corners. Once you get the hang of paddle shifting, banging a shift mid corner under power or de-accel without chassis upset feels, well, like cheating. The DCT is a polarizing option, but most that don't like it probably haven't spent much time on it. As Skids says, it is a heavy bike but for me only noticeable in parking lots and in the tightest of successive corners. Anything else and this thing is a rock, a powerful rock. I've copied most of the mods detailed by the pioneer 1200 owners on this very site (I think the archives still exist). The stock suspension sucks and there are plenty of good options for upgrade. I went with DMr front and back and they have been a great option considering price/performance. That would be the first fix I'd recommend.

37K on the odo means the bike is just getting broken in. I've got nearly 130K miles on mine and it is running great, no drips, leaks or mechanical issues. Seems obvious, but be sure to check the oil level with the bike straight upright (on center stand). On the side stand it'll show overfilled. OEM shock is probably toast. DMr Performance is the only shop I know that can rebuild the OEM. I know, Jamie has done mine twice. Or, you can opt for one of the DMr line of shocks. Fully adjustable, work great and very affordable. Have one on my Gen 7 and love it. If you go this route, PM me as I have some useful info you could use. Probably need a refresh of the forks too, they weren't great in OEM form. Corroded fork lowers can be easily powder coated. Be sure the engine runs smoothly beyond idle, i.e. drive it around. I say this because in the US we use ethanol diluted fuel. I let mine sit for a year and the carbs got gummed up from the goo this asinine concoction creates. No fuel cleaner worked. Had to remove and rebuild all four, followed by the always fun effort to balance carbs. Trust me, you don't want to waste precious life on this path. Gen4's are infamous for extensive stress cracks in the rear cowls. No OEM replacements are available. If yours are in good shape that is a good sign. I'd hold off putting a lot of miles on the bike until these are reinforced. There are some good threads on the subject on this site. Of course, there are the well established electrical issues, notably the regulator/rectifier. Also some good threads on this subject on VFRD. After two rectifiers, I solved mine by a better cable/connector set and an R1 regulator/rectifier. That was 75K miles ago. Good luck. Hope you're able to get this VFR back on the road!

I have Li batteries in all my bikes that use batteries, street and dirt. All are at least 3 years old and not a single issue so far. For me, lead based batteries are a thing of the past.

On the bright side, I can get you half way there. I have a BNIB OEM throttle side heated grip, but no left side..don't ask why. You find the left side somewhere and I'll make you a great deal on the right side.

Hey Skids, If you're coming to the southern part of Cali in the early part of your timeline (May), there are some beautiful desert areas to see. Death Valley and Joshua Tree National parks come to mind. These are great bike and car trips, but also offer great hiking/camping opportunities. Death Valley https://www.nps.gov/deva/planyourvisit/basicinfo.htm Joshua Tree https://www.nps.gov/jotr/index.htm If you come down to San Diego, I always recommend visitors drive up to Cabrillo National Monument on Point Loma for the best views of San Diego and the coast north and south to Mexico. Do this at sunset and cruise back down to the city for an outdoor dinner in Little Italy or the Gaslamp area. Hey, you could even take in a Padres game at Petco Park. https://www.nps.gov/cabr/index.htm I live in North County San Diego. Look me up and we can ride a few of the best bike roads in SoCal (I have bikes) and sample some of the best microbreweries in the country. Either way, have fun.

Sorry, I can't provide any feedback on the Airtech cowl, but I'm mighty interested in knowing as well. Been bedeviled by Honda's piss-poor design of the Gen4 tail cowl for years. I've got two sets of OEM's in various stages of repair and nothing really prevents the cracks resurfacing. Ready to move on.

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That's the fuel pump. Perfectly normal.

New tires are great. OEM seat isn't. You'll need to go custom to make it comfortable for a passenger.

Best not to mix brands if you're swapping out a front. Better to replace both at the same time too, though I eat fronts faster and have on occasion replaced the front with same make because the rear was still near new. I can vouch that both Micheln PR's and Dunlop Roadsmarts work very well with the 1200. Great steering, grip, brake stability and mileage. Might give the Angel GT a try next as I spooned a set on the Gen4 and love them so far. I have never felt the 1200 was hard to steer, except when new...the OEM tires were crap. It's a heavy bike, but remarkably nimble for its heft. Try a new set of tires recommended by other 1200 owners and you should be ok.

Wow. This is a paradigm shift for Gen7 owners. Good info indeed. I assume he can eliminate the top speed restriction, install maps and adjust coolant temp. too?

The cat is the rectangular can under the bike. See photo. Removing or altering it would almost certainly be detected during an emissions test...that's the point of a catalytic converter. No fuel controller such as the Bazzaz unit will fix the 1-2 gear restrictions, it's coded into the ECU. For the DCT, Guhl is the only solution. I believe Guhl ships worldwide, so the logistics are really just shipping to/fro. If you can get all the body work off and tilt the tank up, you can easily remove/replace the ECU. You'll love getting the bodywork off the first time... Buy some of these in advance.

Doc, The OEM rear tire is a 190/55. If you have a 190/50 on the rear you'll observe roughly 5% higher readings on the speedo. Add normal speedo error and you could be as high as 10% off. The 50 profile is probably going to make the rear turn-in a little more effort as well. Sounds like you're sorting out a plan for your bike. In that context, I offer what I did. Perhaps you'll find it useful. After getting to know the bike, and reading all the input from the Gen7 pioneers on this site, my mod priorities became: 1) Suspension - OEM suspension was terrible. OEM tires the same. I went DMr reworked forks and DMr BD-40 shock. IMO best bang for the buck in the US. Any upgrade to suspension will be worth the effort. 2) Comfort - Bars and seat. I went Heli bars and custom seat. Bought it with all the OEM comfort accessories: heated grips, deflectors, etc. 3) Radar Detector - This became a priority midway thru... 4) Performance - Not really a priority, but hey...who can resist more power? Guhl flash, decat, DAM muffler, Bazzaz FI and mapper, K&N AF, PAIR, etc. The decat and DAM combo resulted in the most significant increase in HP. Since no one has dyno'd the FD model, the dyno'd F model map (for a modified bike) provided by Bazzaz works well on the FD...at the expense of mileage. So, the 2-map switch option with the AFM mapper allows one to build an economy map and use their performance map with the flick of a switch. I wasn't too concerned with weight, this is a heavy bike and you just aren't going to make it svelte. But, ditching the boat anchor muffler was easy...weight, looks, sound and performance, and the DAM muffler works with the OEM panniers.