Devorlast

I got some eBay H7 LEDs for mine years ago. The hardest part is ensuring the bulb with the fan and post is not too long. The top bulb has a beak-shaped plastic reflector that sticks out over the bulb, so if you pick one that is extra long, it might not fit. I had HID before and that's a pain in the rear and then some, with the ballasts and other pieces having to fit into the headlight housing somehow it was just not worth the effort in my opinion. I still have those HID pieces in the headlight housing since they are next to impossible to pry out through the lightbulb holes and the headlight housing seems to be sealed so I wasn't about to pry it apart.

Below is the fix my buddy did. The track is very small so using the copper foil wasn't going to work. I plugged it into the bike and all of the backlight LEDs come on now. I put some RTD silicone (all I had on hand) in that spot to cover the now-exposed connection and to keep further moisture from gathering there. I did think of using desiccant and gluing a bag inside so it doesn't move around and cause problems. Then again, the only reason I had this issue was cause the bike was outside one winter with fluctuating temps and humidity. I will put something on the rubber boot that covers the console connector, the console itself doesn't have a gasket but it has a pretty long knife edge all around. As for the tach, I figured as much, so I wasn't about to dig that deep and desolder it. I'm sure there is a way to get the dial off unless they put the whole assembly together and then soldered it to the card.

I talked to one of my ET buddies and he has a 2M shop next to NAS Oceana. I'm going there tomorrow, he said that he should be able to repair the track without a problem and do the eyelet as well. I'll post an update once we are done, I got the forks back together and on the bike today, so once the console is done all I will have left to do is reassemble the gazillion plastic pieces that make up the fairing.

Grum, I saw the corrosion in that spot, I wasn't 100% sure if that was it but after using an extra light as an "x-ray" I got the picture below. My red circle is a bit small but if you zoom in you can see that there is a break in the line connecting the eyelet to the R393. I verified that it's open with my meter. I was wondering if I should try to solder a jumper from the eyelet to either R393 or to the yellow-circled portion of the solder run. I have some soldering experience, but I'm a Navy electrician/engineer, so soldering fine electronics is a bit out of my expertise. I am worried about soldering to the resistor, the small ones can fail when submitted to a soldering iron heat. I do have a variable-temp soldering station and some pretty fine solder tips. On the other hand, I don't think soldering to the printed solder line would even work. recreating the solder line doesn't seem possible either considering how small it is and its proximity to the other two lines. I'm going to do some research on circuit board repair, a new one is $720 on Partzilla, so if I mess this one up Ill just end up spending the money I saved on doing my own fork seals on a new console...

A little while ago I had some moisture get into the dashboard display and not long after the backlight stopped working. I was wondering if anyone ever did any repairs to theirs. The backlight does not have separate lights, the LEDs are on the circuit board with the rest of the dashboard components. I am attaching the pictures of the board inside, I can't get the dial for the RPM off so I don't have full access to the circuit board. A new board is close to $1000, if I can't get it fixed I'll probably just leave it as is and try to get some auxiliary light set up to illuminate the speed display at least. Looking at the wiring diagram I can't tell which wire is for the backlight, I don't even know if it has a dedicated wire just for that or if it's a power supply line for the whole circuit.

I got the ECU back, installed it Thursday and I can definitely see a difference. 1'st and 2'nd gear are A LOT smoother, no more stuttering and acting up on low revs or when accelerating. Going from 0 to 60 seems a lot faster, I never clocked myself before so that might be just my imagination though. I only removed the gear restrictions and top speed, did not touch the rest of the settings that Don can change. My only whine might be that I mailed the ECU Monday with a sticky that had my phone number and information, than when I called next Monday worried the package got lost they told me it arrived already and they can ship it Tuesday soonest. I got the ECU Thursday with shipping date of Wednesday, didn't bother me a lot but I was hoping to get the whole thing done a few days earlier so I wouldn't have to use my wifes car to get to work. So overall I am very satisfied, the extra power is there but it is not making me worried that I will slip in rain or anything as it's more subtle increase than I expected after some comments on this forum. Next on my radar for next year is suspension upgrade/tunning and headlight/taillight mods, maybe some red LED's for accent too. I am slowly starting to run out of ideas on what else can I mess with on my VFR :D .

I have the ECU out. Could not get a hold of Don over the past week so I will call them Monday to see about the shipping address and payment method etc. While at it I decided to clean the air filter and replace the gaskets on the PAIR mod covers. Some guy at O'Rileys sold me this gasket material last year when I did the mod and apparently it got pretty burnt and cracked over time. I got the red silicone that was recommended for gasket material, I will try to use that this time.

Sent an email to Don, should be ready to send the ECU next Monday. I am having high hopes now that I know that the low RPM "lag", or whatever to call that weird drive behavior, is caused by the fueling and ECU restrictions. I always thought it was the DCT clutch having a crappy sensor and activating/deactivating at low/no throttle openings and low speed.

I got my PCV and the autotune before I ever heard about the reflash option. Besides if you switch your exhaust or anything else on the engine side PCV lets you configure the fueling yourself instead of pulling out the ECU and shipping it somewhere.

How to contact Guhl? I will be getting my ECU out next weekend, finally decided to give the re-flash a chance.

Well since no one said anything I assume a voltage regulator is not necessary and I will get the Shorai over the weekend. I keep getting the annoying ABS light blink, which according to the shop was due to low battery amperage, maybe a new battery will fix it.

Any one on the pre TC 1200 DCT had issues riding in rain after the reflash? That was the main reason I didn't get it so far, I ride in all types of weather and with so much power to the wheel I'd be worried about slipping. I managed to hydroplane/slide around in San Diego once after pushing too hard on an on ramp, it was pure act of God that I didn't end up crashing that time.

Do you really need a voltage regulator for the 1200? I have seen people mentioning it before, the min and max voltages for the shorai have me worried that if the stock rectifier goes too high the battery might overheat, and LiFe batteries can literally explode when overheated. I'm on stock battery and almost 16k mi in to it but on cold days I get the ABS light blink low amperage. The funny thing is that the stock battery never died on me whilst my wife's 2012 CRV had some error in battery computer and would die every now and than, I had to jump start it a few times from the 1200.

I like aftermarket because of the lesser limitations, whether its material or legal considerations. Why for instance do you put a aftermarket pipe, fueling mod and some other tweaks in? Manufacturer has to adhere to stricter rules, which is especially visible in the emissions part of the house. Main reason for the pads though was that they were ready available on ebay from a reputable seller. Anyway, I will be calling EBC tomorrow and if that doesn't solve it Ill send the pads back. They wouldn't fit ANY bike the way they are right now, look at the picture.

So as my stock brake pads got pretty worn out I decided to replace them with some aftermarket ones. I got three packs of EBC brake pads, one for rear and two for the front calipers. After taking the stock rear pads out I noticed that the metal shape supporting the pad looks different than stocks, and the bracket piece that goes over the whole assembly fits a little awkward. Still it seemed to fit in the caliper just fine, that was until I tried to put the retainer pin back in. Turns out the loops on the EBC pads are too low so they hit the top of caliper casing and won’t align with the pin holes... After considering all my options I filed the excess metal [it was just a few millimeters so it didn’t compromise the structure of the pad in any way] and got it to fit, and surprisingly work pretty well as well. Then I moved to the front calipers and the real problem surfaced. Once I got the stock pads out and was about to put the new ones in I noticed that the two small pad pieces were not mirrored, instead they were the same. I got confused for a second thinking I was looking at it wrong or something but no, small pads from ABC actually came both same sided. I than opened the second pack of pads I had and they were the same... So basically someone in EBC made the design for those pads based of Honda manual but never QA'd his work or even bother fitting them to a bike to see if they work. I emailed the company to see if they reply, if not Ill send them back to the seller I got them from over eBay and get my money back, than get new stocks. Funniest thing of all was the big logo on the pad pack saying "support America, made in America!", I'm sure to look for Japanese parts next time... I have a photo of how do they look like included, didn’t take one of rear set as I didn’t think about it at the time.