luvtoleanit

Received recall in the mail on Saturday. Called dealer today and they are ordering the parts for me. Requested my tech that I've used for 15 years. No big deal at all.

Thanks for reminding me. I think I still have one of these nib that I never used and need to sell.

Not concerned. Will get the work done before Spring.

1 million? Alexandra Daddario and a box of lube

Because a rider like hondavfr1200dct, going to the track twice a year, to become a better rider, should focus his attention switching gears at the non-opportune time on the track, while piloting a heavy sport touring orientated motorcycle, as a work around to some stupid factory limitation equals skill in your book? Most any other bike doesn't have this limitation. The bike should change to the way he rides, like most any other sport natured bike around, not the other way around. An interrupt in the rpm band isn't something that is ideal and why many of us have removed it. It certain scenarios where you need throttle on the road it could be a dangerous limitation also. It takes "skill" to figure out what he did, that the bike has some nanny state neutering in place, a limitation. And to add insult to injury, to your insult of other owners, his "skill" was being worked on, in a controlled environment, and the safest place to actually do it. It takes "skill" to realize limitations and to identify things that shouldn't exist as a hindrance. Before questioning others skill level, maybe stick to your own.

Very nice.

That isn't a Dutch problem. It's everywhere. I'm in Texas, in the city, and it's the same shit here. People texting, surfing, emailing, eating, ladies putting on makeup. My bikes are 90% twisty machines but 2 weeks ago I decided to ride to a mates to go see a film. On the way there, on a tollroad highway, a lady was putting on makeup, in the fast lane, doing 80-85 MPH, drifting in and out of her lane. I thought she was drunk at first and sped to get away from her. As I passed her I looked over and she had her visor flipped down, with the light on, applying her makeup. Crazy!

Congrats dude.

Again, it's instantaneous. Radar goes off and I instantly get a led flash. Maybe there is a millisecond delay but when I hear the audible from the radar (can hear it at lower speeds) the LED is already lit in the helmet. Mine is placed in my peripheral so it's recognized immediately with no delay and time consuming? Gonna have to disagree with you there. I know that from experience as I've been using one of the gens from LS for 12 years now and probably 100k miles so I'm not going by anyone else's reviews/comments/internet stories. In that time I've never received a threat that I couldn't pick off. Probably 7-8k in savings from fines. I have 0 points on my license and aim to keep it that way. It works so well that a few times, we were running the corners hard, got an alert, chopped the throttle, glided past the unmarked LEO under the speed limit and waved to him as we passed. One of those times he flipped us off. And yeah it's nice not having a cord connected. That way I can protect my hearing with earplugs. V1 has a bluetooth upgrade now available to use the smart phone as a remote display which will be even more protection.

Hard system is instantaneous

Wasn't meant to be an advertisement. I'm enthusiastic about it because I've been using it since 2001, so 12 years now. I've probably saved my myself in excess of seven grand in tickets over the years. V1 has a phone app now that works like a remote display. I'm hoping to upgrade it over the winter when I'm not riding. If I didn't have this HARD thing, the twisty fun wouldn't exist. I won't ride a bike without it on public roads.

My friends all use the HARD system, but I decided not to. * I can't learn much about circuits that way. * Too expensive. * Don't want more wires inside my helmet. * Don't want to deal with batteries. * Friend's HARD system interfered with his phone-to-helmet Bluetooth audio... and I like music while I ride. This setup will have one cable to the radar for me to plug in and that's it. I like simple. ;) Interesting. I use a Sena SMH10r to bluetooth music from my phone with no issues. First I've heard of anything like that. I'd guess this person having the problem is using an Adaptiv radar instead of an Escort or V1. I ran my HARD wire from the back of the helmet through the cheekpad of my helmets, no issues and no wires dangling, invisible really. Batteries on the new one last forever. Cost is $159 and that's cheaper than a ticket, much cheaper considering my speeds. My time is money so for me to build something and pull me away from other duties the DIY would be much more expensive but kudos for tackling it. Good luck to you. In daylight I can't see anything being as effective as the HARD unit. Best m/c mod I've ever done.

Why not just use LegalSpeeding's HARD unit? They have a newer unit out that I'm using that is waterproof.

I never said if someone runs less than full pressure they'd slide off the road. Please point out where that was said. It wasn't stated, suggested, 0, nada, didn't happen. You keep referencing these "tire engineers." I've told you, repeatedly I might add, that I have spoken to tire reps before, multiple. I've spoken with Bridgestone, Metzeler, and Pirelli over the years and what they told me and what you are saying as "Tire engineers" doesn't match up. I've attended many track days, spoken with tire reps, worked with rider coaches, mechanics, and riding schools. Every single one of them has told me to adjust PSI to conditions. And those are temps, road surfaces, riding style (commuting vs. twisties), suspension, weight of the bike, weight of the rider, etc. It's variable, much like suspension settings such as sag, rebound, compression, etc. A few of us have told you that there is a gross weight rating on our bikes. And that 36/42 is a max PSI rating for these tires, that means maximum NOT MINIMUM. We've also told you that there is a relationship with PSI and grip. We've also stated that none of us believe track PSI is what you should run on the road. So we are now just going in circles so that you can keep trying to be right. I stated what I run. A few of us have stated also, to learn these things for yourself, don't believe us, or you. Do your own experimentation and learn about PSI, and what it does to grip. My experience says that 36/42 is for when i have my bikes loaded with gear and/or when I'm slabbing it. Over 90% of my riding is hard twisty riding, with the additional 10% being the track. When specifically hopping on one of them to corner, I drop the PSI in both my tires, slightly, to gain some additional grip, which I do in fact get, and what I've experimented with for many, many years, as well as working with tire mfr's to find an ideal setting for my riding style, conditions, speed, etc. You indicate that will give a decrease in performance and to me that is an outright lie. Perhaps you should take your own advice and try it instead of stating a one rule for all that many of us have told you just doesn't work. You are hell bent on this so you go ahead and continue on with it and if that works for you, great. I will say just about everyone here is going to have some experience. If they don't, they've got bigger problems than this jumping on a high powered bike as their first and not knowing what they are doing. Yes I run lower PSI than the max rating. My tires do not deform, I get an INCREASE in performance and the only negative is slightly less tire life out of the rear tires that I am happy to trade off to gain additional grip. Running lower pressure will not cause you to slide off the road, or the tire to explode or any other such nonsense. Even mentioning that was completely stupid, inaccurate, and slander and I don't think you understand the subject as your comments and recommendations go against everything I've been taught and practiced. There is a max weight and max PSI for a reason.

Dead on Tam. And you are 100% correct on the weight. I haven't removed the nanny sticker off my swingarm on the 1200 and that's exactly what it states, max PSI and max weight. It was 400 lbs or so printed on the decal. And that's exactly what it means. If I'm not hauling 400 lbs then those PSI figures are not what I should be running. That doesn't mean I need to be running track PSI either, just somewheres in between based on my weight, suspension, temps, roads, etc. As you said, if I was loaded up with panniers, passenger, either 400 lbs gross weight, or close, sure, I'd be running the max rec'd PSI. When it's just me on the bike at 220, going to run less PSI. I'll sacrifice a little mileage on the rear for extra grip. Safety over $ is fine with me, I can afford it. Why the backlash with such common sense is baffling. If you don't know what in the hell you are doing then you shouldn't be on a VFR anyways. You should be on a 125, 250, or something like a SV650. I am not handing out bad advice and I don't care for that reference either. Excellent post and great advice. I agree with you, most don't play with suspension settings either. And most probably don't even set the sag. I've heard repeatedly that "stock is fine with me" yet everyone weighs differently and rides differently.

LMAO. Yeah running 34/36 and your tire will delaminate, explode, and slide off the road!!!! Dumbest shit I've read on here yet.I posted what I run. You can hand down absolutes, myself, I don't deal with them so you'll have to pardon the demeanor. You must have missed the parts of my post where I spoke to several tire mfr's about hard twisty riding and pressures. 2 different reps recommended 34/36. 36/42 is the max rating, hell it's printed on my bike. It's not rocket science that when you drop a few psi you get more contact patch. I run even lower pressures at the track (32/32) and I've never had a tire explode or cause me to take a trip in the litter. It sounds like you don't know much about PSI or grip. What you should do is not blow a gasket when someone doesn't agree with you. Stock pressure for all is nonsense. I ran stock pressure on both of my bikes when new, and one of them was bought this year. That shit didn't last long either. Your reading comprehension is terrible but your distraction and obfuscation is spot on... I see those numbers posted often. Those are stock pressure settings and not ideal for twisty work. Perfect for commuting and such but definitely not what I would run if you are throwing the thing through turns with anger. 32/32 is still really low for the street. Street use is where the manufacturers design the tires for, and they design them to work their best at 36/42. For the track lower pressures are fine, but unless you are going fast to the point where you are backing it in every corner, there isn't much of a reason to run 10psi lower *on the street. A couple psi down maybe. This is what was originally said this is still the best advice for Candy RC46, he does not need 10 psi below the tire manufacturers recommended pressure for the street, regardless of how much anger he exhibits when throwing his bike through turns on the street. Feel free to play with the your tire pressures but Yoshi was right with his advice. And I never said to run that low of pressure on the street did I? What was posted was 36/42, and 36/42. Take your own reading comprehension advice. As soon as you quit being combative about this, so will I. I did notice this weekend. Riding in 100 degree temps and on our chopped asphalt complete w/tar snakes. Dropped the rear PSI a few pounds and got a little more traction. Prior was getting some movement out of the rear that I haven't at 38 PSI on these new tires but I was riding in temps 6-10 degrees higher than recent months. Funny how a noticeable temp change can change things. Our roads get a bit slimy and there is maybe 2 miles of smooth pavement out of the 300 miles I routinely ride. This is exactly why 36/42 is just bs to me. PSI is variable. Rider weight, suspension, roads, temps, so many variables for a one solution for all conditions. Nonsense IMO.

LMAO. Yeah running 34/36 and your tire will delaminate, explode, and slide off the road!!!! Dumbest shit I've read on here yet.I posted what I run. You can hand down absolutes, myself, I don't deal with them so you'll have to pardon the demeanor. You must have missed the parts of my post where I spoke to several tire mfr's about hard twisty riding and pressures. 2 different reps recommended 34/36. 36/42 is the max rating, hell it's printed on my bike. It's not rocket science that when you drop a few psi you get more contact patch. I run even lower pressures at the track (32/32) and I've never had a tire explode or cause me to take a trip in the litter. It sounds like you don't know much about PSI or grip. What you should do is not blow a gasket when someone doesn't agree with you. Stock pressure for all is nonsense. I ran stock pressure on both of my bikes when new, and one of them was bought this year. That shit didn't last long either.

I see those numbers posted often. Those are stock pressure settings and not ideal for twisty work. Perfect for commuting and such but definitely not what I would run if you are throwing the thing through turns with anger. This is not true. The stock pressure settings for street tires being run on the street are perfectly fine. Anything more than a couple psi low and you are doing more harm than good on the street. At the track where you can monitor tire pressures when hot and you are running CONSISTENT triple digits for extended periods of time feel free to play with the tire pressure but even on a 20 minutes per hour track day session the Michelin Engineers say to run the pressure recommended on the sidewalls. And it has nothing to do with lawyers and everything to do with how the tire is designed. From my experience over 2 decades with various tires and motorcycles, sorry my experience says otherwise. How is more grip harm over good? I'll just agree to disagree and will keep running my tire pressures that I've run for a decade on my roads. I don't run stock tire pressures unless I'm on a trip with lots of slab.

I see those numbers posted often. Those are stock pressure settings and not ideal for twisty work. Perfect for commuting and such but definitely not what I would run if you are throwing the thing through turns with anger. 32/32 is still really low for the street. Street use is where the manufacturers design the tires for, and they design them to work their best at 36/42. For the track lower pressures are fine, but unless you are going fast to the point where you are backing it in every corner, there isn't much of a reason to run 10psi lower *on the street. A couple psi down maybe. I didn't state my numbers or state that I endorse 32/32 on the street. Yes, that is too low (not the front but definitely for the rear). Mfr's, yes, recommend 36/42, but that also state not to modify the motorcycle in any way, not to use Synthetic oil, not to deviate for OEM designed tires, etc. You can take what they tell you and chunk it in the bin along with the rest of the lawyering recommended stuff IMO. Commuting, 2-up, loaded down with luggage, sure, run those pressures for max tire life. But no way in hell would I run factory PSI at full lean in the twisties, no way. I've cornered several Tire reps over the years at shows and was told by several to run 34/36 and I tried it and have been using that ever since. on a heavy bike, like the 1200, I've bumped up the rear to 38 psi because I didn't get any additional slip or sliding. If you aren't pushing the bike that hard than yeah I'd go for max tire life. If you are going to lean it, then drop the psi some and get yourself some extra grip. Tire life is great but don't do it at the expense of grip, especially in cold temps.

I see those numbers posted often. Those are stock pressure settings and not ideal for twisty work. Perfect for commuting and such but definitely not what I would run if you are throwing the thing through turns with anger.

Wow, I thought my radar + GPS (iphone) mounts were cluttery!

Also try Dan Kyle at Kyle racing. He sells more PD's than anyone. Also the biggest Ohlins dealer in the US.

contact brad at ridersdiscount.