Member Contributer Switchblade Posted July 5, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 5, 2014 We have moderators ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted July 6, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 6, 2014 If God is expected to bless the USA, surely his equal brother may wish this VFR to run. Sharia law is equally draconian to laws that prevent teen pregnancy education or deny females to decide what happens in their womb. Extreme views are never good, trying to understand and respect one another is. Try to live (not occupy) with different views. Back on topic, Mazzeltof with this rebuild!!! :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted July 6, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 6, 2014 Ok. So here is the story. Pagan motorcycle gods were looking the other way. After putting everything back together and changing oil I am facing two issues. One - no spark. This is probably something simple, but I couldn't put my finger on it. The other is a major screwup. The right engine bolt which holds the engine to the frame and the right rear coil in place has snapped. I was trying to undo it to move the coil out of the way to make installation of the clutch cover easier. It started coming out fine but then it bogged down and wouldn't come out. Then I tried to screw it back in and I succeeded in screwing - it just snapped off at half the thread. Now I'm gona have till remove the engine in order to fix it. But not before I get it running. To be continued. PS I should stead praying to different gods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Don't make me come down there... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer midlifeVFR Posted July 6, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 6, 2014 Don't make me come down there... Dmitry....Put both bikes on your trailer and point the Chevy north. We can wrench, ride and sling a few yards of concrete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcrwt644 Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 yeaaah, that coil just gets bent out of the way. All will be better with spark and a running bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted July 7, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 7, 2014 It's gonna be a great bike !!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted July 7, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 7, 2014 It's like the the girl that's playing hard to get . . . just when you think you're figured it out there's always something else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Sparrow75 Posted July 7, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 7, 2014 One - no spark. This is probably something simple, but I couldn't put my finger on it. The other is a major screwup. The right engine bolt which holds the engine to the frame and the right rear coil in place has snapped. Hey Rice, sorry to hear about the woes. The bolt snapped...sweet! That means you can just tap it out and pop in a newer better one. Better than rounding the bolt head off, non? As for the no start. I had a issue once...actually two issues...where a fuse (tube style) looked intact but had no continuity. Check each fuse with a multimeter for continuity and sand and clean the contacts...maybe squeeze the holder tabs together a bit if loose. The other issue was with the wiring loom under the ignition switch. I was routed weird and the lock-to-lock steering caused a couple solder joints to crack and move as a function of steering input. The wires are thick and the stress on the old solder may have comprimised the electrical connection. ...but you say only spark is problem so maybe that wouldn't affect it. Maybe check continuity for other wires too, if you haven't? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Sparrow75 Posted July 7, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 7, 2014 And Rice, sorry for not getting back to you before the clutch side cover went back on. Looking at the photo of the pulse generator air gap at the raised spot, it seems to be more than 0.3-0.9 mm (0.012-0.035 in). Adjustment on my bike made a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dalesvfr Posted July 7, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 7, 2014 A friend of mine picked up a pretty mint 1974(?) Honda XL350 that hadn't been running since 1991. He was in the habit of just taking his bikes to the dealer to have things resurrected. I convinced him that we could do everything necessary and when the carb was off and apart in an ultrasonic cleaner and the wheels were off for new tires and the tank was off for a new petcock and the cables all disconnected for lubrication he was cursing me. A couple of weekends later he kicked it to life and was driving it around the yard with a huge grin on his face. I don;t think I could get in to it as much as you are, but It will all be worth it in the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted July 9, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 9, 2014 Don't make me come down there... Slap up top of my head acknowledged and well deserved Don't make me come down there... Dmitry....Put both bikes on your trailer and point the Chevy north. We can wrench, ride and sling a few yards of concrete. Brian, It appears that my place is behind the concrete shovel at the moment. Would be great so see you again. Will def. do it one fine weekend. I'll call you. yeaaah, that coil just gets bent out of the way. All will be better with spark and a running bike. Now I know It's gonna be a great bike !!!! Encouragement is appreciated as always. It's like the the girl that's playing hard to get . . . just when you think you're figured it out there's always something else. I'll get'er done to be sure. In the "Thrill of the chase" phase of the project for now. If I keep doing it, I must like it, right? One - no spark. This is probably something simple, but I couldn't put my finger on it. The other is a major screwup. The right engine bolt which holds the engine to the frame and the right rear coil in place has snapped. Hey Rice, sorry to hear about the woes. The bolt snapped...sweet! That means you can just tap it out and pop in a newer better one. Better than rounding the bolt head off, non? As for the no start. I had a issue once...actually two issues...where a fuse (tube style) looked intact but had no continuity. Check each fuse with a multimeter for continuity and sand and clean the contacts...maybe squeeze the holder tabs together a bit if loose. The other issue was with the wiring loom under the ignition switch. I was routed weird and the lock-to-lock steering caused a couple solder joints to crack and move as a function of steering input. The wires are thick and the stress on the old solder may have comprimised the electrical connection. ...but you say only spark is problem so maybe that wouldn't affect it. Maybe check continuity for other wires too, if you haven't? About the bolt; The strange thing is that it started coming out fine and then bogged down and just stopped. I thought that it was locktight, but it just stopped. Then I decided to just tighten it back and it went back in a few turns and stopped short . Someone must have used concrete instead of locktight or something. I know one thing though - It ain't gona be easy to tap it out, considering the kind of force it took to brake off - It is a stout bolt fersure. Might have to drill it out, which is not my favorite thing to do. Drilling steel out of aluminum is no fun. I am hoping for enough stick-out to weld a good size nut on. Hopefully the heat will break down whatever is holding it there. Regarding the spark - I checked all the fuses - One fuse box in the front and one 30 amp fuse in the starter relay. All are good. Are there any other fuses? ECU? Pulse generator? To be seen. The wiring appears to be intact - It turns over and the dash lights up as it should. And Rice, sorry for not getting back to you before the clutch side cover went back on. Looking at the photo of the pulse generator air gap at the raised spot, it seems to be more than 0.3-0.9 mm (0.012-0.035 in). Adjustment on my bike made a difference. Thanks for the suggestion. I decided not to check the gap before closing the cover for two reasons. 1 - I haven't touched the pulse generator, and it did work before... 2 - I can't locate my feeler gauge. It is hiding somewhere amongst the clutter of stuff. Now, I will def. open it back up and check. Is there a simpler gauge I can use, like a business card or something? A friend of mine picked up a pretty mint 1974(?) Honda XL350 that hadn't been running since 1991. He was in the habit of just taking his bikes to the dealer to have things resurrected. I convinced him that we could do everything necessary and when the carb was off and apart in an ultrasonic cleaner and the wheels were off for new tires and the tank was off for a new petcock and the cables all disconnected for lubrication he was cursing me. A couple of weekends later he kicked it to life and was driving it around the yard with a huge grin on his face. I don;t think I could get in to it as much as you are, but It will all be worth it in the end. I am an optimist and since this is not my primary ride, I'm just taking it day by day and not stressing too much over it. I know that I will look at it with a sense of pride in the end. Time well spent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Sparrow75 Posted July 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 9, 2014 Rice, that is a good idea, to use a credit card...a quick search confirms my ruler...credit cards have a thickness of 0.76 mm (0.030 in). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted July 12, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted July 12, 2014 Update. Broke out the service manual and followed the "No spark" check procedures. ECU Power in - Check Ignition Pulse Generator coil: Yellow - White/Yellow - 350 Ohm Yellow - White/Blue - NADA Ignition primary coils - All are between 40 and 50 Ohm. Spec calls for 2-4 Ohm. Could I have burned out all of my coils??? I don't see anything that would cause that. I know for a fact that there was spark before I removed the clutch cover... Ignition Secondary coils - All except one are within spec. Right rear one - NADA Neutral Switch Line - Check Side Stand switch line - Check Ground line - Check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted July 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted July 12, 2014 Yellow - White/Yellow - 350 Ohm That don't look right ... Seems low .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer arrow Posted August 8, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2014 How is this project going? Please update us, I'd love hear some more... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted August 9, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 9, 2014 Sorry for the long silence - Work and summer fun got the best of me lately. I haven't made much progress on the no spark condition, aside from buying a set of used coils for cheap on ebay. "New" coils tested similar to the old ones, but I will replace at least one, which didn't have continuity on the secondary circuit In any case, I don't think that coils are at fault here. It's probably something more "global" like the pulse generator. This goes against all logic, what little I possess, since I haven't touched it or any wires that go to it, but I will buy another one just in case and install it. Sometimes logic doesn't rule the day when it comes to electrical $hit. In the meantime, since this bike didn't come with the center stand and using a block under the side stand wasn't an ideal arrangement, I have adopted an old Lochart Phillips bike stand to the VFR. Cut up some galvanized pipe from Home Depot and welded up some adopters Insert them into the top of the stand tubes Another pipe (used to install and remove the pool cover) goes through the rear axle and viola! Got me a VFR rear stand. It was easier than figuring out the spark And little progress is better than no progress at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRad704 Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Nice. I have the same stand setup for my vfr too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted August 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 9, 2014 Welding bench is a gas tank . Hmmmm ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keny Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 I wounder what this 3rd gen is worth? The ugliest 3rd gen VFR, or VFR in generel I have ever seen! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcrwt644 Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 ^^OMG!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted August 22, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 22, 2014 A little update. Bought a complete wire harness with the ICM, most other relays and fuel pump. Also just received a replacement pulse pickup coil. Mine was low on resistance - 350 on both coils vs required 400-500 Ohm. Haven't tested the "new" one yet. And one more development. I have a line on a complete 03 R1 front end for $250. Supposed to pick it up today. I figure I can't lose on this one even if I don't get the engine running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted August 22, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 22, 2014 Awesome !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted August 25, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted August 25, 2014 Another update. Tried replacing the ICM - Still no spark. My old one worked fine. New one doesn't make sparks fly, so that is probably not the issue. Opened the right engine cover again to make sure that I didn't re-assemble the starter clutch incorrectly. Well, it is full proof (a good thing for mechanics of my caliber) No way to screw it up. Agjusted the gap on the pickup coil, which, after test # 2 shows around 350ohm on both loops. The spec is 200-400, so it should be good as well. I did notice that one of the dimples on the starter clutch outer is bashed in, like it was dropped. I don't recall dropping it, but who knows. SO, now I am down to one dimple as the possible culprit for the no spark condition. I will also replace the pickup coil, just because I have another one. The good news: I did get that 03 R1 front end. All that's missing is the top tripple and the electric switchgear. Otherwise it is complete. I disassembled and cleaned it. It will be my next step once I get the darn engine to run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted August 25, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted August 25, 2014 Great find ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.