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Is It Worth 500 Bucks?


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That bump triggers the spark (hence "pulse generator"), try to fix it to match the other.

I'll try to pry it back out and report back.

In the meantime, I installed the replacement wire harness just to see what would happen.

It is in worse shape than mine - Looks like a dog's been using it as a chew toy, but no MAJOR issues apparent, aside from some bad nonessential connectors.

All plugged in and no spark...

It probably isn't the harness then either.

I am putting my money now on that dimple., although it is only one of many that's out of order.

Back I go :)

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Now that I think of it, someone sent me a cracked starter clutch. The housing should be good... check the manual to see if you can disassemble and swap the parts, yours for shipping!

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Ok.

I don't kiss ass often, but when I do...

So here is the latest.

Hot off the presses.

SEBSPEED RULES!

I pulled the one dimple back out and GOT SPARK!!!

Thank you, sir.

P.S.

The part cannot be disassembled - the outer has a rolled lip, which holds the inner in place.

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Another update.

The bike kinda turns over, but doesn't start.

First issue is the starter clutch inner (again). It worked for a while, but then stopped turning the engine over due to the crack.

I was entertaining a thought of buying another one, but replacements aren't cheap.

So, I took it out, widened he cracks with a grinder and welded them.

After a little cleanup with the grinder and dremel, I gots meself a good working starter clutch.

Now, I'll still have to replace it one day when it cracks again, but for now, it should get me through trying to get the motor running.

As for the motor, it turns, but i get backfire through the carbs and it doesn't even try to catch.

My guess is that I screwed up the timing. AGAIN.

I might need to ask the collective here to hold my shaky, apparently incapable of following directions hand through the adjustment process.

Will post up some more specifics later on.

On the bright side, I can now drain the oil, remove the engine cover, the carbs and the valve covers in 15 minutes flat. :goofy:

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There is going to a collective "roar" of enthusiasm when you post up confirmation of ignition...just sayin'. Keep after it!

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  • 4 weeks later...
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OK, update time :-) , we're waiting ...

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Holy shit. Yes it's worth 500 buck. Take it from someone who was in this position. As a 3rd gen owner, I would kill for a good set of plastics and a slip on. Not to mention that swingarm/wheel is one of the most sought after of All time. And Cogswell, we certainly wouldn't give our RIGHT arms, we need it for that throttle B)

I wounder what this 3rd gen is worth?

swamp-rat-the-apocalyptic-honda-vfr_2.jp

The ugliest 3rd gen VFR, or VFR in generel I have ever seen!

Yupp, that's pretty damned ugly

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  • 1 month later...
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Thanks for keeping it on your radar, Switchblade.

No updates to make at this time.

To be honest, It's kinda hard to find the inspiration while not seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.

I will give the engine one more try in hopes that I, being ME, have managed to screw something up.

My plan is to take lots of pictures and videos (a first for me) and hope that the collective here can set me on the right path.

At this time, I am still of the opinion that I somehow got the timing wrong.

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If you don't get it sorted by May, throw it on your trailer and set it in the Microtel parking lot and yell "GO GET IT BOYS" and it'll be running in no time! :goofy:

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If you don't get it sorted by May, throw it on your trailer and set it in the Microtel parking lot and yell "GO GET IT BOYS" and it'll be running in no time! :goofy:

At least 100 or so experts !!!

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It's Thanksgiving morning and I was told to stay the @#$%^ out of the kitchen. Only too happy to oblige :cheerleader:

This should be my final attempt at getting the motor running and I would humbly submit to the scrutiny of this community in trying to identify the reason why the motor turns, spits back through the carbs and isn't even trying to get going.

To set the seen, I have verified the following somewhat beyond doubt:

  • Compression - Have it on all cylinders and it's close to or within spec.
  • Spark - Have it on all 4 plugs. Verified by removing and grounding each plug. No way for me to tell whether the spark is strong enough other than by visual inspection. But it looks healthy enough.
  • Fuel - Have it. Fuel gets into every cylinder. Plugs get wet and squirting either fuel or starter fluid manually does not make any difference when cranking.
  • Timing - This is what I currently believe to be the root of all evil - What else could it be, right?

How do I check the timing?

Here is what I have:

From the shop manual:

B4037D74-0F82-438A-AA57-10A97C7C388D_zps

T2 mark aligned

8E0D2297-4C81-4BF6-9402-F4F1D392004A_zps

Front Exhaust Camshaft arrow

96063A5C-74D5-496B-9898-1B1CC0685FE9_zps

Front Intake shaft arrow

0C454B62-ABB6-4091-99D7-02058AB1AB98_zps

Rear Intake shaft arrow

879C967C-D462-4849-9F00-DCFFFCC55E1E_zps

Rear Exhaust shaft arrow

8CAE6C8E-F2CD-4306-B282-6F3814C73774_zps

To me, and I am NO EXPERT, it looks like the timing is correct, right?

One question is, and this is proof that I am no expert...

Arrows align on T2 mark once every 2 full revolutions (720deg).

Could it be that I have the arrows align on the wrong revolution, e.g. 360 degrees off?

Does TDC have something to do with it?

Manual does not mention TDC in the picture, so I must assume, and assumption IS the mother of all f-ups, that it doesn't matter. But I could be and probably am wrong.

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You can part this bike for more than the asking price. Never give what they are asking. If they have done this before, they know how the game is played. Thay have already factured in you comming in with a lower price. Hit them with something just short of insulting. Then work up from there. I have learned you would not beleive what you can get for just asking. As I stated before the bike is worth more than $500.00 in parts. Let us know how this works out.

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You can part this bike for more than the asking price. Never give what they are asking. If they have done this before, they know how the game is played. Thay have already factured in you comming in with a lower price. Hit them with something just short of insulting. Then work up from there. I have learned you would not beleive what you can get for just asking. As I stated before the bike is worth more than $500.00 in parts. Let us know how this works out.

That is missing the spirit of this exercise. There are two objectives that I assume are true.

One is to see if you can turn a $500. Bike into a good running machine and save it from the fate of death.

Two, make the purchaser absolutely insane while being entertained.

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Remember the crank rotates twice for one revolution of the cams,so YES you can be 180 degree's out. You have to know which cylinder your timing on, if it is #1 then the piston has to be on the up stroke at TDC.

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I think the easiest way to check if you are 180 out is to go through the valve timing procedure. That should outline the required relationship between piston TDC, cam position, and crank position.

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It does sound like the timing is 180* out and that is why you are spitting back up through the carbs...

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  • 1 month later...

I'm dying to know what the current status of this bike is. I just sat down with a coffee to indulge myself while I read up on quirks of the 91 VFR. I get that it's not about the money which is why I'm about to pick up a 91 myself for 1/5 of the $500 the OP stole this one for. All I know about the one I'm grabbing is that it's running and complete. (it's a long story - better suited for another thread altogether. I don't want to hijack this one - it's too good)

So - that said, any joy over the festive season with all that time to one's self? (stated with a mound of sarcasm re. the time to ones self)

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