timmythecop Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 3rd gens are soooo quiet even without a can. It is the strangest thing. Must be that gigantic collector box underneath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcrwt644 Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 glad to hear you got her up and going. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dalesvfr Posted June 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11, 2014 Congrats. Look forward to watching progress. As an aside, you have some really dodgy wiring connections going on under the hood of your truck. But you know that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Marsman99 Posted June 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11, 2014 It's alive! But then it started to piss fuel something fierce and I shut it off. Now, I need to find where it comes from. One guess is that the bowl drains are open from the storage prep. At least I hope so. Nothing like an easy solution. Oh, and I'm an optimist. Off I go to test that theory. My Gen4 had a bout with fuel incontinence at around 115K miles. Similar scenario. I assumed it was stuck floats or some other carb issue, but it turned out to be the seals in the fuel manifold. PITA to get to, replace and reinstall. Needed to balance the carbs afterwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted June 11, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 11, 2014 Thanks to all for the comments. Congrats. Look forward to watching progress. As an aside, you have some really dodgy wiring connections going on under the hood of your truck. But you know that. Yeah.. I know. The wiring was aesthetically offensive, but technically sound. I did have to hack an on-the-fly solution bypassing the controller to get me through the day. No tools or electric tape. Thankfully was able to borrow wire cutters and a razor blade. It's alive!But then it started to piss fuel something fierce and I shut it off.Now, I need to find where it comes from.One guess is that the bowl drains are open from the storage prep. At least I hope so. Nothing like an easy solution. Oh, and I'm an optimist.Off I go to test that theory.My Gen4 had a bout with fuel incontinence at around 115K miles. Similar scenario. I assumed it was stuck floats or some other carb issue, but it turned out to be the seals in the fuel manifold. PITA to get to, replace and reinstall. Needed to balance the carbs afterwards. I sure hope that this is not the case. Carbs and I are not the best of friends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dalesvfr Posted June 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11, 2014 I had a chafed wire once that I had to cut and reconnect. All I had was a plastic wire nut for a lamp. It did the job for years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted June 11, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 11, 2014 Update. While looking for the source of gas leak under the carbs, I have decided to remove them (might as well) and here is what I saw: Right front cylinder (#4 I believe) is "rusty" in the valve area. Actually, I think it's old gas solids, since it's on the aluminum. The rest are clean. Corresponding carb bowl is also full of crud Guess I'll be "dipping" the entire assembly. gll429 has provided excellent tips on what to do and what what not to do - Thanks for that! Also, I get this weird sound when I push the starter. It sounds like something is spinning but I don't hear compression pops out of the exhaust. Just a constant whine of starter spinning the motor w/o actuating the pistons, if that makes sense. Occasionally, I'll hear the proper compression pops, but then they would be replaced by this constant whine... I'll try to record it and post here as well. AS for the source of the gas leak, I didn't see any obvious culprits. Carb bowl gaskets look very compressed and gunked up with stale gas powder in spots. Maybe that's it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted June 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11, 2014 Not that bad really ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted June 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 11, 2014 Doesn't look like it needs a complete dipping. Just hammer away at that one bowl, and do a basic cleaning and check on the rest. The one float bowl might have been stuck and flooded, sending the fuel out the overflow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted June 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 12, 2014 Really enjoying this topic. Please keep it coming! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted June 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 12, 2014 Must have been why he parked it the leaking and stuck float . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmythecop Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Start looking for floats and needles now. They are becoming more rare and expensive each day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer WIN6 Posted June 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 12, 2014 Starter sounds like mine did when the starter clutch was failing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheStig Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Mine was stored for 15 years before I resurrected it, the carbs were in a worse state than your's... all 4 were gummed up. A few things to do: Take the fuel tap off and clean the pre-filter. Acetone is good for removing the crud. I replaced the fuel hoses...and the fuel pump. See how your's is first, I guess? I used acetone, a small pot (to soak stuff in acetone) cotton buds, a jet wash (Clamp the parts well onto a wooden post first!) and compressed air. One of my carbs leaked so I replaced the float bowl gasket. When re-assembling, first make sure the screws on the clamps are well lubed, then spray plenty of penetrating oil onto the rubber tubes before pushing the carbs back on. I found by making both ends loose, I could get them on more easily. Some people buy new rubber, mine are 70,000 miles old but I still used them. No problem. Be careful not to assemble the diaphragms wrongly... I did on one carb and it wouldn't rev past 6,000. There will be other work to do too. Stuff like rebuilding calipers (dremmel & brass brush is great to clean behind seals), master cylinders, check wheel bearings, etc. Enjoy the project! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted June 12, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 12, 2014 Start looking for floats and needles now. They are becoming more rare and expensive each day Floats were not flooded and were moving freely. The one gunked up carb needle wasn't moving well due to the crud. I am hoping to get the needles and jets cleaned up - See no real reason to replace them unless absolutely necessary. Starter sounds like mine did when the starter clutch was failing Starter clutch, huh? Add one to the list Wasn't there something about cracked clutch basket being one of the possible culprits? I wasn't paying attention since I didn't own an earlier gen. Mine was stored for 15 years before I resurrected it, the carbs were in a worse state than your's... all 4 were gummed up. A few things to do: Take the fuel tap off and clean the pre-filter. Acetone is good for removing the crud. I replaced the fuel hoses...and the fuel pump. See how your's is first, I guess? I used acetone, a small pot (to soak stuff in acetone) cotton buds, a jet wash (Clamp the parts well onto a wooden post first!) and compressed air. One of my carbs leaked so I replaced the float bowl gasket. When re-assembling, first make sure the screws on the clamps are well lubed, then spray plenty of penetrating oil onto the rubber tubes before pushing the carbs back on. I found by making both ends loose, I could get them on more easily. Some people buy new rubber, mine are 70,000 miles old but I still used them. No problem. Be careful not to assemble the diaphragms wrongly... I did on one carb and it wouldn't rev past 6,000. There will be other work to do too. Stuff like rebuilding calipers (dremmel & brass brush is great to clean behind seals), master cylinders, check wheel bearings, etc. Enjoy the project! :) How do you assemble it wrongly? If there is a way to screw something up, I have a good chance of discovering it I actually looked at how they're put together and there is one dimple on the outer ridge of the housing that corresponds to the hole on the diaphragm itself. The only thing that concerned me was getting the seal part of the rubber seat correctly upon reassembly The spring creates tension and I am a bit worried that the seal will get shifted and pinched. I dipped the carbs in Gunk last night. Well, I dipped half the carbs . Gunk says not to dip plastic or rubber and I'm a bit worried there, but hopefully the business part got a good bath overnight. I'll wash it out with water, then with carb spray, Will also poke all the holes with a wire and blow out with air. [boy, if I were to change/remove a few words here, could be a description of some good times ] Carb soak: I was trying to figure out how to keep track of jets for each carb. You can even see my feeble attempts to mark the venturies. Ended up just dumping the loose bits in the corresponding throttle opening. There's just enough soak to cover them there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer trjerm Posted June 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 12, 2014 Did you pull out all of the jets (pilot, needle and main) and soak them and spray carb cleaner in every orfice on the bodies and let it soak, then blow out every jet and orfice w/ compressed air before reassembly . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted June 12, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 12, 2014 Does anyone know where to buy carb bowl gaskets? Mine are hard and probably are the cause of the fuel leaks. Can I supplement the existing ones by some gasket maker for the time being? Did you pull out all of the jets (pilot, needle and main) and soak them and spray carb cleaner in every orfice on the bodies and let it soak, then blow out every jet and orfice w/ compressed air before reassembly . Pulled all there was to pull from the inside of bowls. It appears that I have neglected needle jets (not in the bowls) I think. Will look at that as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheStig Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 You can only buy a gasket (o'ring) kit. Search schematics on www.ronayers.com - you can order online there, or from www.partzilla.com I only bought one, to fit a leaking float bowl seal.... You can re-use the originals that weren't leaking before, just make sure they're sitting in their grooves when re-assembling. I think I used a mini screwdriver, but a toothpick will do just as well. Or just buy 4 gasket kits... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Another tip for you: I use a dab of vasoline (petroleum jelly) in several spots on the float bowl to hold the o-rings in the groves. Normally works really well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted June 12, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 12, 2014 Thanks for the tips. For now, I'm going to reuse all the gaskets. I soaked and cleaned them as best I could. Also used some RTV gasket maker gray stuff to seat them and give them more girth. If that doesn't work, Ill have to cough up 200 clams for the 4 kits which is not in the budget for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dalesvfr Posted June 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 12, 2014 Used to be able to buy cork gasket material in different thicknesses at auto parts store to make your own. That and a little bottle of gasket shellac. Put the bowl on the material and hit around it with spray paint for a pattern. Also use a hole punch for leather to make the bolt holes. I haven't looked for that sort of thing in ages, but a NAPA type place probably still has it. Probably better than reusing torn stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer SamW Posted June 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 12, 2014 You might use a little hondabond on the bowl seals. Blow air through each hole and make sure they all have some flow to them. If you pull the jets and needles, you might consider the Yamaha carb soak, works really well to clean them up. The fact it run is a very good sign, you should be pretty close Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheStig Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Careful with silicone.... It won't work well in carburettors when mixed with fuel and can lead to blocked fuel jets... Best to just assemble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmythecop Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 You cannot judge the condition of floats by sight. They get saturated and become heavy, and allow the float bowl level to get too high. Your bike is possibly one of the lucky ones, but 90% of the old bikes I have worked on needed floats and needles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcrwt644 Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 I'm going to divulge a bit of a secret I found a bit ago with regards to floats and needles. You will need, 1. a toothbrush 2. mother's or another metal polish 3. q tips 4. micro fibre towel Take your q tip, tip it in your polish, and use that polish to clean up each and every side of the needle. Polish it until it shines. Principle here is that the corrosion on the needle that on occasion hangs it up in the seat, is removed. Take a new q tip and polish it off and then wipe clean with micro fibre. Finally, clean off with carb cleaner to get any film left behind off. Do the same with the inside of the seat Take your tooth brush with a little bit of polish on it and scrub on to the floats. You will be amazed at what it does to the discoloration on the float. Again, wipe clean with the micro fibre. Wait for it to dry and take a different, clean toothbrush, and remove any dried polish from the cracks This may not be for everyone, but I've had very good success with it. Obviously, it will take a bit of practice. One final note; DON'T LEAVE ANY POLISH ON ANY PART Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.