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MBD Strikes Again!


Skids
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Managed to get the rear shock out.

 

Secret was raising the swing arm pretty high then the shock had room to drop through the hole while missing the cat.

 

Off to the specialists with them as soon as I can.

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5 hours ago, Skids said:

I've not tried the bulbs yet, I'll have to let you know when I do. 

Ok thanks. I wouldn’t expect you’ll have any issues as Thurn seem to have a good rep.

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1 hour ago, voodoo said:

Engine-wise, what do you prefer: vtec ir non-vtec?

 

Having both my vote is non-vtec every day of the week and twice on Sunday.  Honda hit its peak with that motor. 

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On 3/12/2022 at 4:45 PM, stuartb3502 said:

How are the Thurn indicators? I bought some smoked ones off ebay a couple of years back but only realised recently that the bulb holders don't fit them properly.  The cut outs are in the wrong position (which can be worked around), but it's not possible to turn the bulb holder into the locked position.  They're very tight so they don't seem to move but I doubt the sealing O ring is doing anything.  Are the Thurn ones better?  

 

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No issues, bulb holders and supplied amber bulbs fit perfectly.

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Dropped the forks and rear shock with Darren at MCT this morning. As I don't believe they have been touched since they came out of the factory over 21 years ago, I've gone for a full service on the rear, same on the front plus new springs & valves. He says it should only take him a couple of weeks but it'll be the summer before the bike is ready for the road so I'll have to wait to see what magic he can create for me.

 

He transformed the handling on my 1200F so I trust him to do a great job for the money.

 

In the future I may fit an aftermarket rear shock, probably Nitron, but I want to wait and see what the serviced OEM shock is like.

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Will be interested to hear how you get on. Been wanting to take mine to MCT some time when I can save the pennies. Will have to do a fork service myself before that (also never serviced), but will be interesting to see if he can improve the stock rear with a service or whether aftermarket needed.

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4 minutes ago, stuartb3502 said:

Will be interested to hear how you get on. Been wanting to take mine to MCT some time when I can save the pennies. Will have to do a fork service myself before that (also never serviced), but will be interesting to see if he can improve the stock rear with a service or whether aftermarket needed.

 

Budget-wise, it's a service for me. A Nitron or other will definitely be an improvement but right now, the pennies have to go elsewhere.

 

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15 hours ago, Skids said:

but right now, the pennies have to go elsewhere.

 

 

OMG!  You are not buying a Hardley Ableson are you???? :tongue:

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39 minutes ago, Dutchy said:

 

OMG!  You are not buying a Hardley Ableson are you???? :tongue:

 

Are you mad? :goofy:

 

No, there are other expenses required on the Fi right now.....new brake pads, caliper overhaul, bling....you know the stuff  :beer:

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Talking of bling.....the LED rear taillight arrived this week from Thurn Motorsports and as I can't really do much more today (I need another pair of hands to help with removing the half full fuel tank - may have to resort to draining it the way we were taught in physics at school) I decided to fit it. Really simple and a quality fit too. Very well made product, as you'd expect from a German supplier.

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Fitted the supplied replacement flasher relay too.

 

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Also ordered a voltmeter and mount. The mount sits around the ignition barrel, a really simple fit. The voltmeter display came in a choice of colours so I choose cool blue. Obviously, I then had to buy a set of replacement LED dash bulbs in blue too. :cool:

 

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Today has brought a little progress. Mrs Skids was able to help me remove the fuel tank and then I was able to remove the air filter housing ready to attack the PAIR system once the blanking plates arrive. Spark plugs will be changed as well as they are now easy to get at. Must admit the air filter housing was harder to remove than I recall. The small doobry thing (bypass control solenoid valve 😉) front right beneath the housing which has the #12 & #15 pipes going into it, was a real bugger to remove. I think on my previous 5th Gen I re-routed the pipes so the doobry would lift up easily enough so I could remove the electrical connector with ease. Anyway, it's all apart now. Filter looks pretty good for less than 100 miles on it, however, it was fitted almost 11 years ago! New one should be on its way.

 

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I do need to ask a question though....I thought the velocity stacks (I think that's the correct term) have 2 little pointers on them which I thought were supposed to be pointed in the same directions (forwards and inwards), yet if you look on the picture below, you can see that they're not. I am 99.9% sure that the velocity stacks have not been touched since they left the factory so is this the way they should be mounted or does it not matter. If it doesn't matter, what are the little marks for?

 

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Hi Skids.

Your mark alignment doesn't look right to the Service Manual picture.

 

Remove the funnels and make sure you have two short and two long ones.

 

The rear two for cylinders 1 and 3 = 1 long on the left, 3 short on the right.

The front two for cylinders 2 and 4 = 2 short on the left, 4 long on the right.

 

Hope this helps, there is a good reason why Honda have configured them that way!

 

NOTE - This is definitely how they are for a 6gen. Can anyone confirm the 5gen which I'm only assuming would be the same?

 

Post Edit....Ignore short/long comments 5gen all four are the same.

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28 minutes ago, Grum said:

Hi Skids.

Your mark alignment doesn't look right to the Service Manual picture.

 

Remove the funnels and make sure you have two short and two long ones.

 

The rear two for cylinders 1 and 3 = 1 long on the left, 3 short on the right.

The front two for cylinders 2 and 4 = 2 short on the left, 4 long on the right.

 

Hope this helps, there is a good reason why Honda have configured them that way!

NOTE - This is definitely how they are for a 6gen. Can anyone confirm the 5gen which I'm assuming should be the same?

I know this goes back and forth and people have found different things in their airboxes...in the end, not sure it matters fortunately.  My 2002 was short front, long rear, the first time I opened it (I have tried different arrangements we discussed here way back when).  The parts diagram at Partzilla shows this too -  a short one on the right front (17236-MCW-D00) with a "t" arrow pointing to the left hole, and a long one (17237-MCW-D00) on right rear, with another "t" going to the left rear.

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Parts diagram for a 2009 is the same.  However, heading over to the 2001...

 

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There is only one component (7) but two part numbers.  Can't tell from Google image search if these are different lengths at all.  I have seen inside a 5th gen air box that had never been opened before, but that was in 2005 and I don't recall what I found.  Since they seem to come with different stack lengths... 🤷‍♂️

 

It gets super confusing, especially when you bring the service manual pictures in.

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Hi Skids.

Ignore what I'd previously posted! its only relevant to the 6gen.

ShipFixer is correct, there is only ONE part number for the intake funnels on a 5gen so all 4 are the same. Only the 6gen appears to have the short/long configuration. The 8gen also has all four intake funnels being the same.

 

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2 hours ago, Grum said:

Hi Skids.

Ignore what I'd previously posted! its only relevant to the 6gen.

ShipFixer is correct, there is only ONE part number for the intake funnels on a 5gen so all 4 are the same. Only the 6gen appears to have the short/long configuration. The 8gen also has all four intake funnels being the same.

 

Great, thanks. So it doesn't matter which way the little pointers point then? 

 

I'm pretty sure my airbox has not been removed before. 

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Well, not sure from the photos…the alignment marks are for “something.”  But yours appear to be fully seated into the manifold, and all the same height.  If they are not all fully seated, and aren’t the same total height (bottom of manifold to top of stack), then I would shift it around.  Also doesn’t hurt to do it “just because.”  I’ve actually never noticed the marks that @Grum points out 😄

 

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Voltmeter and mount arrived so I've mounted it to see what it looks like. I think it's pretty good.

 

 

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On 3/28/2022 at 9:33 PM, ShipFixer said:

Well, not sure from the photos…the alignment marks are for “something.”  But yours appear to be fully seated into the manifold, and all the same height.  If they are not all fully seated, and aren’t the same total height (bottom of manifold to top of stack), then I would shift it around.  Also doesn’t hurt to do it “just because.”  I’ve actually never noticed the marks that @Grum points out 😄

 

 

They were fully seated and they felt like they were factory set, if you know what I mean. They all came loose with exactly the same amount of force, same noise, everything and no witness marks anywhere so I'm 99.9% sure that's how they came out of the factory.

 

I'd still be interested to learn what the little markers are for and why the shop manual has a small diagram with "Air Funnel Direction Mark" on it. 

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Looking at the photo and the service manual, the two marks on your funnels are on either side of a screw hole, and the service manual has the marks in between two screw holes.  I got tired of looking at this puzzle but not sure you can line them up as per the manual.  Could be an artifact induced by having two part numbers maybe.
 

Regardless, if everything is seated with no gaps and the total intake runner length is the same on all four, there is no functional way it's wrong.

 

 

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Busy morning.

 

PAIR delete. Sadly not Mello Dude's plates but a local guy who also supplied the mounting plate for the voltmeter.

 

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Connected the voltmeter

 

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Fitted the suspension. I've stuck with the standard fork positioning but may consider dropping them (actually raising them, I think) 5mm or 10mm but I'll see how she handles after the work done on the by Darren at MCT. Also fitted a battery tender cable. Battery is new, replaced just before I purchased the bike by the PO but will need tending as this bike will not be ridden that often, and certainly not over the winter.

 

I've just stopped for lunch after draining all the brake lines. Next is removal of the old lines and replacing them with HEL braided steel ones. Looks like a bit of a jumble but each pipe is unique so I should be able to match them with their old ones as each are removed. New OEM Honda pads to be fitted after 3 caliper overhauls...keen to replace the rubber seals after they've been sat unused for so long.

 

What remains? 

 

New tyres (to replace 2006 BT020's)

Coolant replace

Oil/filter & air filter replace

Spark plugs

Hi-level end can (probably Black Widow as they are based only 30 mins from me and it does look good).

SS fairing bolts

 

Probably more but I can't think right now.

 

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Is there a link to Pair Delete work? What it does and how to do it?  That looks tidy...

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Coming together nicely Skids. :fing02:

Question - Do you have both HISS Ignition Keys? If not it would be well worth going through the process of creating a spare.

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