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whodat90 last won the day on January 25

whodat90 had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Purcellville VA
  • In My Garage:
    2019 Spyder F3S, 2019 Ryker, 1997 Valkyrie, 2000 VFR800, 1975 GL1000, xxxx Dnepr MT16

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  1. Took the bike out for a quick ride. It made enough of a difference in riding position that I had to adjust my rearview mirrors. Felt pretty comfortable too, so overall I'm pleased.
  2. These will work with helibars but I'd start to worry about the bars hitting the bottom of the windscreen at full lock. may not be an issue depending on the pullback, but something to consider before purchase.
  3. Shipping was a couple weeks, but the seller let me know immediately. It's because of the worldwide shipping slowdown. That said, it did end up getting to me two weeks earlier than expected. On a side note, a gentleman on another forum told me that you can get another 3/4" of pullback by flipping the stock bars side to side. I may do that also, but it'll be a bit of a pain due to the heated grips I have installed.
  4. I've been pretty intensely on puppy duty for the past bit of time, but some bar risers I ordered for my VFR8 came in and I'm finally able to step away from the pups for a bit. Went to the doctor a while ago (actually it's a friend who's a doctor) and it turns out I have two pretty nasty conditions, I'm old and I'm fat. To that end I needed a bit more room and a bit less stretch over to the bars. Helibars cost all the money. Had them on my last VFR, but they're way more than I'm willing to pay for this one. I searched around and found a cheap set on the ebays that are basically a top-cap extension and a riser. Cheap enough, $105 shipped. If you're going to cheap out on motorcycle parts, make sure it's the ones responsible for controlling the whole thing. Anyway: Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr And here's the OEM compared. I moved the O-rings across from the old to the new ones. Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr I greased all the threads and O-rings before installation. Stock: Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr Extension installed: Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr Riser installed: Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr Important to note that the riser doesn't reach the joint between the tube and cap. That way when the clipon is installed it'll clamp the two together so it can't unthread easily. And here they are fully installed: Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr Haven't ridden it yet, but I sat on the bike and made vroom noises and it seems at least $105 more comfortable so far. So it wasn't until a day or two ago I found out there's a different version of these made by a company called moto-cnc. Except they don't let you keep your preload adjustment and they don't thread into the fork tubes, they just have a puck that sits on top of your existing fork cap and the clipon clamps half on the fork leg and half on the loose cap. I'll give that a hard pass, thanks. This is inherently a much stronger connection. It's always a crapshoot posting ebay links since this post will be here long after ebay has changed it, but here's what I bought. Not affiliated, not a recommendation, etc. Just fyi. https://www.ebay.com/itm/284690254630
  5. I honestly can't see any particular difference regardless of how they're put, but here's the page from the manual: Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
  6. I should clarify. Those are the LED Headlight bulbs I installed in the VFR, but that's because I was going for reduction in watts, not absolute lumens. On my spyder which has a much more robust alternator, I installed these: https://www.amazon.com/DDM-Tuning-Headlight-Foglight-Warranty/dp/B085MBZ3Q1 Pretty much the brightest bulb you can stick in a stock housing at the time. There may actually be something better and brighter now, but if you're going for WOW lighting it's hard to beat those.
  7. Thanks, happy to share. These are the turn signal bulbs I got for the front and rear turn signals: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EEI9LLM And they fit fine. These are the ones I got for the rear brakes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H6TDWWB With this blinker relay: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B096XPH229 And for the heck of it, here's the headlight bulbs I got: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087CTL3SB
  8. Yup, direct swap and even fit in the stock location. No wires cut, plug just plugs in. Not only is it easier to get, I got a two-pack from amazon for like $10 shipped next day. BTW I used different turn signal bulbs than brake light bulbs for clearance issues; the front turn signal bulbs have a lot less room than the rears and brake lights. Just checked the wiring diagram, looks like the stock three wire blinker relay has power, ground, and output. The two wire has power and output, and uses the ground provided by the bulb when it's on. I'm guessing that since the stock blinker relay uses probably a bimetallic switch it needs more current than the bulb can provide.
  9. One of the bar ends was missing from the VFR. I went into my bin of spares and found the one that had been on it, but also realized it was ugly which is why it was removed in the first place. I looked on ebay but nobody was willing to donate them for free so I figured I'd grab a whunk of aluminum and make one. Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr I didn't have a matching countersunk screw so I had to use a SHCS instead. NBD, unless you're specifically looking for it you'd never notice the difference. I rebated the inner edge to give additional clearance to the throttle tube/heated grip. The finish was near polished when it came off the lathe but I scuffed it up with some 400 and 800 grit sandpaper to get a surface for the paint to stick to. Used some semigloss black I had on hand, which turned out more gloss than semi. Oh well. It's less shiny in person than in the pic, and I figure a bit of age will knock the gloss down quite a bit. Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr Then baked it in the shop oven for an hour to cure, let it outgass a bit more, then installed it. Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr Ta Daa! No money out of pocket, got to spend a bit of quality time with my lathe and mill, and now I have nice matching bar ends. Of course when I was making it out of aluminum (to match the OEM one) I found a chunk of stainless the right size to make a pair, and a chunk of Titanium the right size. Hmm. I'll probably leave well enough alone.
  10. Because reasons I decided to go to LED headlight bulbs and turn signal/running lights, as well as a LED specific blinker relay. Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr So now the lights are brighter, I use less electricities and I shouldn't have to pull the fairings off again for a while.
  11. And man I forgot how much of a pain it is to bleed these brakes. Did it today because I had spare time. Fronts, no big problem. Rear, ok. Kind of a pain to do by yourself but not impossible. Secondary master to rear? Holy balls. Finally got a system worked out. Squeeze front caliper with a quick-clamp to the fork leg to compress the mc. Crack the rear caliper bleeder. Remove the quick clamp, step on the rear pedal to force new fluid in the smc. Repeat a million times till new fluid comes out. Yes I followed the manual, but still. Pain to do by myself. And yes, I know, bypass the linked brakes. Too pricey to do right, and this is strictly a low-budget bike for me.
  12. Years ago I just broke the ceramic out of a spark plug and epoxied a tube into it to fit my compression tester. Still works fine.
  13. So not white wheels by any means, but the VFR, especially a bright colored one, has a vast dark area underneath. The black wheels, tires, engine cases, brake cover, calipers, radiators, exhaust, etc. just leave no visual interest or distinction. So I used the same brand (Keiti) of wheel stripe tape I did on my red VFR, and lo and behold, the color match was perfect this time also. Anyway, the applicator it comes on is awful. Zero percent chance of it working correctly as designed. I pulled the rear wheel off, cleaned up the edge of the rim with some rubbing alcohol (the whole bike is filthy but it's too cold to wash it; not too cold to ride it though) and applied it by hand. The yellow feels more fragile than the red and blue I've used before, but that could be because I probably did the other colors when it was warmer. Right now it's about 65* in my barn. Anyway, it broke occasionally, but that's not a big deal, just overlap the break a little bit and keep going. So much easier to remove the rear wheel now that the exhaust has a lot of antisieze on it. Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr Then 60lbs of wood pellets in the racing trunk and the front wheel was off the ground: Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr Front wheel also came off easily due to the judicious application of antisieze. BTW I took the wheels off, cleaned the rim, then set the wheel on a home depot bucket and used a low stool so I was working comfortably with the wheel flat. Stuck down a few inches of tape, turned the wheel, stuck down a few more inches, repeat till done. Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr How close is the color match? Check out the pic I took with the flash on. In this one you can see the bit of tape I had hanging off the gas tank in all the other pics. No, I didn't leave it there. I just had it on hand because the roll of tape doesn't come with a whole lot of extra and if I screwed it up and was a tiny bit short I'd have that on hand. And now I realize that that pirelli sticker is on the bike still, and although I do have pirelli tires on it I don't do stickers so it has to come off. Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
  14. As cool a I will admit the white wheels look, it's a bit too prissy for me. I traded my last VFR for a DL1000 that I put TKC80s on, because most of the roads I enjoy are terrible. Hell, my driveway is 600' of bad gravel and dirt. BTW I just found the link to my previous VFR:
  15. Honestly the only hard part of what I did was pulling the racks to get the injectors out. Like three octopi fighting each other there's so many hoses, wires, and cables. Everything else is simple and doable by anyone that can operate a breadstick. I do this stuff to relax (gone through probably 25+ bikes in the last 20 years) and I love it because it's not hard, just time consuming. It's relaxing to spend an hour or two slowly taking something apart, fixing it, cleaning it, putting it back together and polishing it. My Valkyrie was awful when I got it, now it's a monster. Get yourself something cheap and fix it up! Untitled by Uncle Grr!, on Flickr
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