The version 3 optimization build

[jefferson]

Pictures of the ti ZRX fairing mount.

[Tirso]

A few days ago saw that Tyga has a stainless header with RH exit that's available for 3rd gen VFR.   Likely lighter than stock and better performing. Looks prettier! 

 

Tyga Header for 3rd Gen VFR

 

I don't own any Tyga but hear they produce quality stuff.  Maybe others will have first hand experince.

[Captain 80s]

55 minutes ago, Tirso said:

A few days ago saw that Tyga has a stainless header with RH exit that's available for 3rd gen VFR.   Likely lighter than stock and better performing. Looks prettier! 

 

Tyga Header for 3rd Gen VFR

 

I don't own any Tyga but hear they produce quality stuff.  Maybe others will have first hand experince.

 

I don't have any first hand experience with their full systems, but I did buy a muffler for the RC26.  It is well made, very pretty and sounds great.

 

 

I have heard nothing but positive things about their products, and my experience agrees.  A member on another forum tricked out a RVF400.  He only buys and installs top shelf items and he is a repeat Tyga customer. 

[ducnut]

Yep. Tyga is all quality stuff.

[jefferson]

1 hour ago, Tirso said:

A few days ago saw that Tyga has a stainless header with RH exit that's available for 3rd gen VFR.   Likely lighter than stock and better performing. Looks prettier! 

 

Tyga Header for 3rd Gen VFR

 

I don't own any Tyga but hear they produce quality stuff.  Maybe others will have first hand experince.

I also really like the fact that they have replacement panels to take the place of the factory panels that don't fit with their exhaust, even one in carbon. The killer for me is no center stand.

There's no doubt it would be lighter and have to make more power than the collector stock system.

[Tirso]

1 hour ago, jefferson said:

I also really like the fact that they have replacement panels to take the place of the factory panels that don't fit with their exhaust, even one in carbon. The killer for me is no center stand.

There's no doubt it would be lighter and have to make more power than the collector stock system.

 

Curious to why no center stand is a deal breaker.  I removed the center stand from my 5th gen, dropped about 7lbs and don't miss it.  But, I have an Abba Skylift and a vintage TBR rear wheel stand modified for my Ducati hub.

 

Tyga also sells a saucy racing step kit. You 3rd and 4th gen guys get all the cool toys.

 

 

 

[jefferson]

I just really like being able to put it on the center stand in the garage and be able to work on the left side same as the right. It would also be real handy if a flat rear happened out on the road. I want it light, but practical.

[jefferson]

Went for a ride today and as I was filling up beforehand another benefit to the center stand became apparent. You can fill the tank to the brim instead of how full you can fill it on the side stand. I'm not a fan of staddling the bike to hold it upright while filling the tank.

[RC1237V]

That fairing mount is quite the piece, and the price is probably about the same as a nice 3rd gen. Aluminum is lighter than Ti and easier to work with. Neither would remain straight after a crash, so I would just have one made from aluminum. The VFR fairing mount has a ton of twists and turns, so not gonna be cheap to replicate. The rear subframe however, is very simple in comparison, and could be made from aluminum as well.

 

While you're at the machine shop, have them make one of these for you too.... 

 

 

[jefferson]

Looks like someone is ahead of me on that, but it's probably for one of the RC's other than the 36.

[RC1237V]

Actually it's for an MV Agusta... might make one for my 3rd gen, so I can run the Ducati spindle, single nut, and forged wheel. 😉

[RC1237V]

There is also this one for the VFR400/RVF400

[jefferson]

Got a .22 weight savings with a few more aluminum and ti bolts. I know of at least 11 more to address and then there are the bolts already in my possession that aren't on the bike due to not having it torn down enough to get to them. My total so far is 23.28 lbs lost

I have the front end off the 96 and the rest of the bike sold. The front wheel is apart for aluminum spacers, hybrid ceramic bearings and new seals and the wheel had a couple of spots that needed weld built up and then smoothed out before powder coating. The weight of the wheel with rotors and all spacers was 17.03 lbs. I'll weight it again when it's time to go on and I also want to compare it to the stock 93 wheel. The lower triple is 3.22 lbs and when I get things torn apart will see how much lighter it is than the 93 triple.

Battery weighs 9.72 lbs. Shorai shows a 14 amp hour battery that weighs 2.8 lbs, but the 18 amp hour battery weighs 2.3 lbs. Can't get anyone at Shorai to return my call to confirm those weights. I weighed the lug wrench as I have some plans for it and it's part of the weight of the bike unless you do away with it. It weighed .65 lbs. I also have seen ti tools to replace those in the tool kit, but just not there on those yet.

I did do a couple of hundred mile ride the other day and was very pleased to log 52.8 mpg with speeds ranging from 65 to 75. Maybe it will get better the more weight I take off as it is the enemy of performance

[RC1237V]

Looks like you're on the right track! Check out Speedcell batteries too, made in USA, super nice folks, and great customer service.

 

Do you have someone that can make you a Ti axle for your '96 front end? Those steel units are heavy. I had one made one for the RC and one for the 1200, along with aluminum spacers. I used an aluminum bolt on the 1200 axle since I have an axle slider that holds it all together, but on the RC, I spent the big bucks for Ti. 

 

As for the lug wrench, get a 6 point deep socket and weld a drilled out 22mm nut (to save weight)(or whatever size you can find the aluminum tire lever - not too small, it takes ~85 ft lbs)) to it to resemble this:

 

Then use this aluminum tire lever to turn it it when needed....

 

 

 

[jefferson]

Got the wheel back from being welded and got everything smoothed out and looking good for powder coating. The aluminum spacers he made are .32 of a lb. lighter. Not going to figure the weight in as I will weigh the front wheel as an assembly. 

Need to source some hybrid ceramic bearings and get some new seals too.

 

I guess my reply to you didn't go through RC. I already have a ti axle and nut on the bike. I like those speedwell batteries, but don't want to change all the connections. The Shorai will drop right in and hook up.

For the lug wrench I'm thinking of replacing the handle with cromoly tubing since it will still slip into it's recess with that mod.

[3rdgenred]

3 hours ago, jefferson said:

 

...For the lug wrench I'm thinking of replacing the handle with cromoly tubing since it will still slip into it's recess with that mod.

While doing this, are you going to create a bracket to hold that tool? 

[jefferson]

I'm not changing anything except what the handle is made of and it will still sit in the recess that it sits in now. 

[jefferson]

The front wheel is powder coated  and all together with ti disc bolts, aluminum spacers, and hybrid ceramic bearings. The assy. was .35 lb. lighter than stock. Component savings should have been .46 lb. so the powder coating ending up being .1 lb. heavier. The Ti cam cover bolts have been here since my Birthday. The Ti caliper rebuild kits are somewhere awaiting the UK mail debacle to be over so they can be on their way.

I was pulling the lowers off the 4th gen forks when one of the allens in the bottom stripped out so I guess it will take some careful drilling to get the head off the bolt. Always something.

I also kept the tailight and rt rear turn signal off the bike and decided they would look alot better with all the lettering removed from the lenses. They really do look alot better.  Now I just need a left rear signal so I can put them on the bike. I have found one, but I just can't talk myself into paying what they want for it. To me they should be around $25 and they want over double that. I'm in no hurry

[jefferson]

Thinking about the fork lower with the stripped bolt last night and I think I may use a cheap allen wrench and JB weld it into the hole. That should take care of the issue. I really don't want to inadvertently drill into the leg and then have a leak due to the damage.

[Captain 80s]

51 minutes ago, jefferson said:

Thinking about the fork lower with the stripped bolt last night and I think I may use a cheap allen wrench and JB weld it into the hole. That should take care of the issue. I really don't want to inadvertently drill into the leg and then have a leak due to the damage.

 

I've drilled out a bunch.  The bad head will release before you get anywhere near the fork lower, just use a bit that is slightly larger than the bolt shaft..  And you already have the perfect pilot hole and the extra safety cushion of a thick crush washer.  I don't even sweat it anymore when they round out on old forks.  The remaining piece in the cartridge unit comes out easily, usually with my fingers.

[VFR750F3]

Done that before.  Make sure you use a cobalt drill bit.  They cut like butter and you will be done quickly.

[jefferson]

Well I got the tire mounted on the new wheel so I could then weigh the old wheel. My scale didn't go that high and showed me an error so I had to take things apart and weigh them separately. I looked at the weight of the new wheel and thought this is going to be good. Stock to stock we have 21.14lbs. versus 17.03 which is 4.11lb difference. I was shocked. Never thought there would be that much difference. Well worth doing. With the lighter components there was an additional weight savings of .35 lb. for a total of 4.46 lbs saved. The new wheel has 2 wheel weights on it also that the old wheel didn't have. I may try spinning the tire and rebalancing to get rid of those.

Now to do some drilling on the fork tube bolt!

[sfdownhill]

On 8/14/2022 at 5:09 PM, RC1237V said:

There is also this one for the VFR400/RVF400

Now THAT is a lovely piece of aluminium. I wonder if it fits the 3 gen…

[Dutchy]

On 10/11/2022 at 10:23 PM, jefferson said:

Got a .22 weight savings with a few more aluminum and ti bolts. I know of at least 11 more to address and then there are the bolts already in my possession that aren't on the bike due to not having it torn down enough to get to them. My total so far is 23.28 lbs lost

I have the front end off the 96 and the rest of the bike sold. The front wheel is apart for aluminum spacers, hybrid ceramic bearings and new seals and the wheel had a couple of spots that needed weld built up and then smoothed out before powder coating. The weight of the wheel with rotors and all spacers was 17.03 lbs. I'll weight it again when it's time to go on and I also want to compare it to the stock 93 wheel. The lower triple is 3.22 lbs and when I get things torn apart will see how much lighter it is than the 93 triple.

Battery weighs 9.72 lbs. Shorai shows a 14 amp hour battery that weighs 2.8 lbs, but the 18 amp hour battery weighs 2.3 lbs. Can't get anyone at Shorai to return my call to confirm those weights. I weighed the lug wrench as I have some plans for it and it's part of the weight of the bike unless you do away with it. It weighed .65 lbs. I also have seen ti tools to replace those in the tool kit, but just not there on those yet.

I did do a couple of hundred mile ride the other day and was very pleased to log 52.8 mpg with speeds ranging from 65 to 75. Maybe it will get better the more weight I take off as it is the enemy of performance

How much do you weigh yourself (in the buff)?

[jefferson]

I've never weighed myself that way, but an estimate would be 170 to 175.