Tirso

Swapping fairings on a VFR is not too difficult and much easier than swapping motorcycle parts. Separating the upper cowl from the inner half cowl is probably the hardest part as you have to be mindful of the side clips on the upper cowl that insert into the inner half cowl. They are easy to break. You can see the clips once you remove the side fairings. A fairing swap also allows you to pick the best panels for your bike that are all now NLA. I suggest you have a set of fairing clips fairing clips and well nuts well nuts. It's easy to break 20+ year old fairing clips and some 20+ year old well nuts may need replacement. My '99 is red and piece by piece I'm sourcing yellow OEM fairings. Not easy to find. Also, having a VFRness may still lead to R/R failure. A Shindengen SH847 will solve the problem for the bike's life. Have fun with the new yellow bike!

On eBay, there's someone in San Diego that may fix it. $14.99 +shipping https://www.ebay.com/itm/373057498435 Dynojet Power Commander 3 USB - Reprogram/Flash Firmware Fix Service Services If your issues are described as below, reflashing the firmware with a genuine Dynojet programming box may be able to fix the device: 1. Device not turning on nor connecting with your computer 2. Need to update an old firmware version 3. Firmware got scrambled or interrupted during update 4. Unable to flash map ("division by zero" error) For example: You pay for this service with this eBay listing (which includes the return shipping) or contact me directly. You pay and choose your own shipping method to ship your device to me. Once I receive your device, I will service it and I will ship it back the same day with tracking number. NOTE: THIS IS A SERVICE. THIS LISTING IS NOT FOR THE CABLE. NOTE: THIS IS A SERVICE. THIS LISTING IS NOT FOR THE CABLE. Please read entire the listing carefully. Dynojet no longer services these devices. If the Power Commander device was accidentally flashed with the Ignition Module firmware, it will be permanently bricked and cannot be fixed. The "EX" models cannot be flashed. The older PC3 serial (non-USB) models cannot be flashed. If your device is permanently bricked or beyond repair, it is not fixable. Any cancelled orders because you thought this was not a service, only shipping will be refunded. I hope by offering my service, I will be able to help others with similar issues in a cost effective and time sensitive manner because I know we all want to go riding as soon as possible! International shipping costs and shipping duration will vary. If you are not fully satisfied or if the device is beyond repair, I will offer a full refund for only the service. Shipping and handling is not refunded. If you have any other questions, please feel free to contact me. I will be more than happy to help. NOTE: THIS IS A SERVICE. THIS LISTING IS NOT FOR THE CABLE. NOTE: THIS IS A SERVICE. THIS LISTING IS NOT FOR THE CABLE.

I'm playing tour guide in Yosemite that weekend, have fun! Yesterday rode Skaggs from Stewards Pt to Healdsburg in perfect Sonoma weather. What a ride, also had fun from Jenner to Skaggs chasing a R nine T. That bike can pull.

My 8-spoke (’90-’93 VFR) rear wheel is ink black powder coated. The high gloss requires constant cleaning with swiffer duster and detailing in crevices with paint brushes. If I wait too long and let the dust accumulate, the dust requires mild soap, small microfiber towel, and a bucker of water. My wife keeps occasionally reminds me I should have done my wheels in white:-/

Thanks for the feedback. I thought of pedal ratio but couldn’t prove the 11mm/13mm discrepancy without real items to measure. Pictures for 848 and 1299 don’t help. From the first build, I made sure to keep the lever arm in the same position as the stock step. Thanks for bringing this up, I probably should have mentioned this in my write up as I took a couple of pictures of rear MC placement on the footrest before determining where and how much to cut. The rubber plug used as the pedal’s resting point not only solved the “tick” issue I mentioned in my post, but also placed the pedal in the stock location without the stock pressure switch. It also worked out that the distance from the pin to the MC piston on both systems was identical. I did not care enough to weight the new Brembo system, but the removed system was close to 2kgs. The Brembo P34 is half the size and has twice the stopping power of the delinked stock caliper with the f4 MC. It would not surprise me if the Brembo system was less than ½ the weight.

Introduction With Eyrwbvfr's adapter, this is how I fit a Brembo rear brake system from a Ducati 848 and Ducati 916 on my ‘99 VFR. From the 848 I used: Brembo P34 rear caliper, Brembo 4767 (11mm) rear master cylinder (MC), Brembo rear brake rod and Brembo rear reservoir cup and cap. From the 916 I sourced the rear brake rod fork and quick clip. The information in this document can also be used as part of the Extreme Creations (Australia) Ducati Hub conversion kit for VFR800 (price of kit in AUD). Reach out to Eyrwbvfr if you are interested in this adapter. As of Aug 25, 2021, he has brackets available and 8mm push rods that work with a Brembo rear MC and stock brake rod fork. More on that later. Eyrwbvfr also has a 2nd adapter that works with a Brembo P32G rear caliper. Installing a Brembo brake system can only be done as part of a brake delinking. VFRD has many examples, ask if you have questions. In the “Conclusion” section below, I include information on my delinked front brake system as an example. Installing the Brembo P34 rear caliper is easy with Eyrwbvfr’s adapter and detailed in the section: “Eyrwbvfr’s Adapter Installed”. The next challenge, what rear MC to use? Use the rear MC designed to work with your P34/P32, in my case it’s an 11mm MC. Installing a Brembo rear MC is covered in section: “Brembo 4767 Rear Master Cylinder Install”. I am not aware of an 11mm Honda/Nissin rear MC. With my delinked system, a 14mm rear MC from a 600f4 (‘99-’00) worked well with the stock rear caliper modified to work with one brake line. Using this 14mm f4 rear MC on the P34 will leave you with a “wooden pedal” feel, not optimal. Next, what pushrod to use? I built four push rods to test different ideas. I'll briefly describe the two most relevant in the next paragraph and all of them in sections below. Prototype #1 pushrod was installed from Sept '20 to March ‘21. This is the easiest way to complete the Brembo rear caliper/MC conversion. You can use the stock brake rod fork and pin with an 8mm push rod now available from Eyrwbvfr without having to modify your rear brake pedal. The 4th build (final?) was installed July '21 and is the first one I'll describe below. This version takes the most effort to complete; you modify your brake pedal to use the Ducati rear brake push rod (848), push rod fork (916), and quick clip (916). To finish the Brembo kit, a Brembo rear brake reservoir cup was installed. Below you'll also find sections “Tools Used” and ”Parts Used” Some info regarding Brembo P34 rear calipers and rear MCs; some P34’s use 11mm rear MC’s while others use 13mm. What little I know on this subject is described in the section "Brembo P34 and P32 Rear Calipers, Which Brembo’s to Avoid". It always a good idea to have a hard/soft copy of the “1998-2001 Honda Service Manual VFR800FI Interceptor” as reference for specific instructions on removal/installation/torque values. Soft copy available at VFRD. Ducati 848 torque specs from Service Manual at Ducati.org. is available as an additional resource. Ducati and Honda use brake rod, push rod and plunger (#16) to refer to the similar item, same goes for brake rod fork, rod yoke and brake rod joint (#21). The VFR Pin is #20. There’s a picture of the Ducati Pin in the section “Ducati Brake Rod, Brake Rod Fork, and Clip”. Above picture is from Partzilla for the ‘99-’01 5th Gen VFR. Remember to safely remove all brake fluid from the rear brake if your system is already delinked or the entire system if you’re making this part of your delinked system. Thanks to Eyrwbvfr for making an excellent product, and thanks to Gig and KevCarver for their feedback. Credit for making the Ducati Hub conversion kit for VFR800 to Ben at Extreme Creations Australia and Keef for working with Ben to make this happen. Information on installing the Extreme Creations kit on a 5th Gen VFR at Gig’s 399 lb VFR848 Ducati Conversion. Here’s KevCarver’s installation of an earlier version of Eyrwbvfr’s Adapter with Ti bolts and safety wires! Disclaimer I borrowed/modified from Eyrwbvfr: DISCLAIMER: * For off-road use only * You modify your bike at your own risk * You are responsible to decide if these instructions and modifications are good enough for the use or abuse you will subject on the installed parts * In using these instructions, you agree that I am in no way responsible or liable for anything that occurs * If you doubt you can do the job or accept responsibility for the modifications, don’t do it * When mounting, use thread lock and/or safety wire on all fasteners * Use Service Manual for as reference for specific instructions on removal / installation / torque values Footrest / Brake Pedal Removal Mounting the Brembo rear brake system on the 5th Gen footrest / brake pedal requires removal of the footrest, heat shield, rear MC, pressure switch and pedal. I used an exhaust spring puller to remove the spring from the pedal. The good news, to remove the right footrest you only need to remove the axle nut which means you don’t need to/shouldn't pull out the axle bolt. Use 27mm to hold the axle bolt on the left side, and 22mm to remove the axle nut on the right. Install axle nut @ 69 ft lbs. VFR Service Manual 14-32. Eyrwbvfr's Adapter After the stock rear caliper is removed, Eyrwbvfr's adapter mounts on the stock brake mount with red thread lock. Excellent design and manufacture by E! It looks better than an OEM item. Install @ 23 ft lbs. VFR Service Manual. 14-0. Brembo P34 Rear Caliper The Brembo mounts on Eyrwbvfr's adapter with red thread lock. Install @ 23 ft lbs. VFR Service Manual 15-41. If you're using the Ducati Extreme Creations conversion, the Brembo mounts on the Ducati 848 or 1098/1198 rear brake holder. Ducati 848 torque specs @ 25 ft lbs. For both Eyrwbvfr's adapter and Extreme Creations conversion kit, you can use one stock 5th Gen VFR rear brake line using the stock route. Install @ 25 ft lbs. VFR Service Manual 15-41. Ducati 848 torque specs @ 25 ft lbs. In his Ducati conversion, Gig's rear brake line goes inside the swing arm! With Eyrwbvfr's adapter you can use the stock rotor (I have an EBC rotor for VFR). With the Extreme Creation conversion, you'll use an 848 or 1098/1198 rotor. Note, the Brembo logo on this P34 is on the left side and not easy to see unless you’re on the ground or peering underneath the swingarm. No Brembo logo visible Perfect fit! Brembo 4767 Rear Master Cylinder Brembo 4767 is an 11mm MC and found on a Ducati 848. There's a 5mm difference in the mounting holes from the Honda 600f4 rear MC (used on my delinked system with stock rear caliper) and the Brembo 4767 rear MC with the Brembo being shorter. The f4 rear MC and 5th Gen rear MC mounting holes are the same distance. You can make up the difference by: 1) using smaller 5mm bolts/nuts and 2) removing ≈ 2.5mm from both mounting holes on the footpeg bracket. Remove ≈ 2.5mm in a downward direction from the upper hole and ≈ 2.5mm in an upward direction from the lower hole. Dremel cutter #195 is perfect for removing the soft material Plastic circle template to outline amount to remove from footrest. I removed enough material from the footpeg bracket to fit 5mm bolts. Weld nuts were used for a flush look, more info below. The first time I installed the rear MC on the footrest, I used 5mm stainless button head bolts with a regular washer and found I had to modify the washers with a Dremel grinder as above otherwise the bolt and washer would not fit. For reference, a regular 5mm washer is underneath the modified washer. In my bike parts collection, I found and used 5mm Ti bolts with small washers from a Deda Elementi bike stem. Space is tight in the modified footrest. I suggest using Ti bike stem bolts with small washers for best fit. Regular 5mm Ti bolts from ProBolt and McMaster do not have small washers attached as do the bike stem bolts. Push Rod Alignment Honda’s 600f4 rear MC used on my delinked stock rear brake caliper is 6.5mm from the middle to its edge. 5th Gen VFR rear MC is the same. The Brembo measures 3.5mm. To move the Brembo MC to center the push rod and the brake pedal, you can use three 5mm fender washers at each mounting point as seen in Prototype #1 a few pictures below or use the spacers I used on later builds from McMaster. Weld nuts from McMaster were used for clean/flush look. There’s a slight crease on the lower mount area of the Brembo caliper. Though not necessary, I cut the lower weld nut for the final build with Dremel disc #EZ456. In the below picture of Prototype #1, you can see the crease just directly below the right dialog box. The crease is less pronounced under the weld nut. This set-up was used from Sept ‘20 to March ‘21 with excellent results. With Dremel disc #EZ456 I tapered the left side of both weld nuts to fit the Brembo rear MC. Though, I found it hard to use a 13mm wrench to hold the weld nut with tapered edges as I tightened the Ti bike stem bolts. With the install of Prototype #2 March ‘21 (pictured above), the correct McMaster spacers were used. Again, I shaped the weld nut to match the rear MC’s shape but did not taper the edges as before. With a hand file, I made the edge perpendicular to the flat side of the weld nut. This allows the use of a 13mm wrench to hold the weld nut and tighten the Ti bike stem bolts with thread lock. VFR Service Manual does not have a torque spec for rear MC install. Ducati 848 torque specs @ 10 ft lbs. Ducati Brake Rod, Brake Rod Fork, and Clip The Ducati 916 #80A055757 (updated #18410051A) rear brake rod fork at 6.16mm width was too narrow for the VFR brake pedal at 6.42mm. With the rear MC installed on the footrest, temporarily install the pedal on the footrest to get an accurate line from the rear Brembo MC piston to a location on the pedal to center the Ducati Brake Rod Fork. After a few measurements, I removed ≈ 0.5mm from the right side of the pedal. I used a few layers of painter’s tape on the vise to hold the pedal. Regarding measurements, confirm the numbers I provide with your setup before you start removing material. I have 2 sets of footrests and pedals, there was a slight variance between them. The Ducati quick fastening push rod clip (#85010151A) is designed to work with the Ducati 916 rear brake rod fork. The issue here: Ducati parts work with a 6mm pedal hole and the 5th Gen VFR pedal hole is 7.42mm. While going through my collection of materials to fit the Ducati quick clip and VFR pedal, I came across an 8mm od / 6mm id aluminum tube. The 7.42mm VFR brake pedal hole was drilled to 8mm. Cutting 6.25mm from the aluminum tube, slightly more than needed to ensure fit in the VFR pedal. Pressing the 6.25mm tube into the VFR pedal. After the above picture, I used the closed side of an 8mm wrench to push the Al tube slightly through both sides then shaped with a hand file. Right side Left side. I know aluminum is not the best material to use, I will monitor slack/play. Worst case scenario, I'll remove the Al tube and insert a steel jig bushing from McMaster. The brake rod is from an 848 to match the 848 master cylinder piston. The nut is a bike presta valve nut. Before I removed ≈ 0.5mm from the right side of the pedal, I made sure the area removed from the pedal was aligned with the push rod fork when installed. Dupont teflon grease was used for the quick clip pin and the Al tube, marine grease for the pedal and footrest. Pressure Switch / Brake Pedal Resting Point With my intention of using a Spiegler pressure brake light switch, I did not consider keeping the stock pressure switch. After removal of the stock pressure switch, the brake pedal rested on the footrest. This caused a "tick" feeling on my shoe when the rear brake pressure pedal was completely released. I wanted the pedal to have a "softer" landing than tapping against the footrest. The simple solution, a 00 rubber plug from the local hardware store. A tiny amount of red rubber grease (ball point pen size) was evenly applied to the rubber plug which was then forced up the hole where the stock pressure switch resided. I used my body weight to push the rubber plug approx. 2mm over the stock mounting point. If you use too much rubber grease, the plug will sail through the hole. With a new x-acto #11 blade, I shaved the bottom of the stopper to get the desired pedal height. I know this is not an elegant solution and there are a few failure points (water collection, rubber deterioration) but for now it works. Besides, you can't see the plug standing next to the bike. At the time of this writing, it’s been in use for 11 months and looks and functions as new. Install axle nut @ 69 ft lbs. VFR Service Manual 14-32. Pressure Switch From Revzilla: “This pressure activated switch replaces your existing banjo bolt to eliminate the need for OEM brake light switches. Single banjo bolt supports 1 brake line.” You can finish the installation by tapping into the stock VFR brake light connection. Brembo Rear Brake Reservoir I used the smaller Brembo reservoir cup which required a slight modification to the tab where the much larger 5th Gen reservoir cup was previously installed. 2 feet of brake fluid line from my local Honda dealer, cut to fit my application. The stock rear brake reservoir will work. Close up: Ducati brake rod, brake rod fork, clip, and bike valve stem nut. Yellow plating on the Ducati brake rod fork matches the golden hue of the polished WiLD Headers. Obviously fill and bleed your system. I installed a Speed Bleeder for maintenance ease. My heat shield was removed when I installed my WiLD Headers Jan ‘20. At that time, I removed the heat shield’s mounting tabs and sprayed the right footrest with this silver color. Another option is to wrap the exposed headers. On Gig’s Ducati Conversion, we see he wrapped his TBR headers with Ti wrap which I may do in the future. Conclusion From the initial install in Sept ‘20, the rear Brembo P34 caliper with Brembo 4767 MC and Eyrwbvfr's adapter have performed very well. My delinked stock rear caliper modified for one brake line with the rear f4 MC was good. But with the Brembo rear brake system there was a significant reduction in weight while rear braking performance improved dramatically. The rear brake is excellent and better matches my front brake system described below. I’ll monitor the rubber plug and keep looking for a better solution. Though after 11 months of use (Sept ‘20-Aug ‘21), it looks and functions as new. I also have my eye on the aluminum tube used on the brake pedal. If the Al just can’t hang, a jig bushing from McMaster will be installed. Info on my delinked front brake system EBC rotors/pads, 954rr calipers(‘02-‘03), 600rr front MC (‘02-’06), Helibars, SuperHawk forks (‘97-’00) with brake line hose clamps to correctly route FZ1 brake lines (‘01-’05), DMr BD20 cartridges. 5th Gen VFR: wheel, axle, spacers, fender, and triple. I made brackets to fit the 5th Gen fender to the Super Hawk forks and made a bracket for the FZ1 brake line block to mount on the lower triple. The Three Prototypes I build four push rod solutions to test different ideas with the fourth build as the final build. Here are the first three prototypes in detail as an FYI and a short description of the fourth which was previously discussed in detail. The first build is the easiest way to complete the Brembo rear caliper/MC conversion as you can use the stock brake rod fork with an 8mm push rod that Eyrwbvfr now has available without having to modify your rear brake pedal. Front View: Prototype #1 Unmodified Rear Brake Pedal 5th Gen Brake Rod Fork 5th Gen Brake Rod Pin Homemade 8mm Brake Rod Stainless 8mm lock nut Installed: Sept ‘20 - March ‘21 Prototype #2 Unmodified Rear Brake Pedal 5th Gen Brake Rod Fork w/Helicoil 5th Gen Brake Rod Pin Ducati 916 Brake Rod Stainless 6mm lock nut Installed: March ‘21 - May ‘21 Prototype #3 Modified Rear Brake Pedal| Ducati 916 Brake Rod Fork Homemade Steel Blind Nut Ducati 848 Brake Rod Stainless 6mm lock nut (made thinner with grinder) Installed: May ‘21 - July ‘21 Side View Rear View Prototype #1 Prototype #1 Unmodified Rear Brake Pedal 5th Gen Brake Rod Fork 5th Gen Brake Rod Pin Homemade Brake Rod Stainless 8mm lock nut Installed: Sept ‘20 - March ‘21 My Ducati 848 Brembo rear brake system purchase did not include a brake rod for the Brembo 4767 MC. On eBay, I looked to purchase the correct push rod but figured I could make one using an 8mm bolt to fit the stock VFR brake rod joint. After a few measurements, a Makita grinder in my right hand, a stainless 8mm x 40mm socket cap bolt held by Makita drill in my left hand, the result worked well. If you go with Eyrwbvfr's adapter and want to use the stock brake rod fork, he now has 8mm push rods like Prototype #1 in stock. Works as good as it looks! Prototype #2 Prototype #2 Unmodified Rear Brake Pedal 5th Gen Brake Rod Fork w/Helicoil 5th Gen Brake Rod Pin Ducati 916 Brake Rod Stainless 6mm lock nut Installed: March ‘21 - May ‘21 Early ‘21, on eBay I purchased a NOS Ducati 916 push rod #11710251A from leftover Fast by Ferraci stock (eBay seller bendwin). Unfortunately, the Ducati 916 push rod has 6mm threads while the stock VFR brake rod joint takes 8mm threads. After installing a helicoil on the VFR brake rod joint with red thread lock, the Ducati 916 push rod also worked well. Tang was carefully removed before installing the 916 push rod. Prototype #3 I was concerned that my home-made push rod (which was based on pictures I saw online) and the NOS 916 push rod were not correct. This may be “much ado about nothing” but I wanted to feel comfortable and purchased an 848 push rod. FYI, the 916 plunger is NLA and the updated part number #11710252A has a similar tip to 848 push rod. Prototype #3 Modified Rear Brake Pedal Ducati 916 Brake Rod Fork Homemade Steel Blind Nut Pin Ducati 848 Brake Rod Stainless 6mm lock nut (made thinner with grinder) Installed: May ‘21 - July ‘21 With the correct 848 push rod (#11720611A) I had an excuse to fit a Ducati rod fork to the VFR brake pedal. Ducati brake rod fork #18410051A also came from leftover Fast by Ferraci stock (eBay seller bendwin). The Ducati 916 (#80A055757 or updated #18410051A) rear brake rod fork at 6.16mm width was too narrow for the VFR brake pedal at 6.42. Using a hand file, I removed ≈ 0.5mm from the right side of the pedal to center the brake rod to the master cylinder piston and allow for movement without play. The next challenge, what pin/clip to use to attach the Ducati rod fork to the VFR brake pedal. My two options 1) make a pin or 2) fit Ducati quick fastening push rod clip #85010151A. I did not have the Ducati pin so I made a pin. To make the pin I used: a 5mm steel insert nut, a stainless 5mm x 15mm button head bolt, 5mm washer and blue thread lock. The steel insert nut diameter measured at 7.06mm and was too wide for the 7mm brake pedal. The solution, shape the insert nut to size with a drill (like how I made the Prototype #1 push rod) and 10mm wide strips of 340 sandpaper. It was a repetitive sand, measure exercise to get the blind nut to mate perfectly to the brake pedal without play. Once it was fitted into the brake pedal hole, I drilled out the Ducati push rod fork to match the inset nut and pedal hole at 7mm. Next, I cut the insert nut with a pipe cutter to sit just tight enough on the fork with the button head bolt and washer installed. The button head bolt was cut to fit with Dremel disc #EZ456. The other side of the insert nut was shaped with Dremel disc #EZ456 and hand file to fit a 9mm wrench to hold the insert nut while tightening the button head bolt with blue thread lock. Initially I used red thread lock but proved too difficult to remove and destroyed my first insert nut. The last thing I did was grind/sand a standard 6mm nut a little thinner, the height of the regular nut on the slimmer push rod/fork was out of proportion. Getting closer Final Product Final Version Modified Rear Brake Pedal Ducati 916 Brake Rod Fork Ducati 916 Push Rod Quick Clip Ducati 848 Brake Rod Stainless 6m Bike Presta Valve Nut Installed: July ‘21 - After Prototype #3, I was curious about Ducati Quick Fastening Push Rod Clip #85010151A, could I make it fit? I checked eBay seller bendwin and purchased another Ducati brake rod fork #18410051A and clip #85010151A. Details on this build in the above title “Ducati Brake Rod Fork/Clip/Plunger” Service Manuals Honda VFR Service Manual Ducati 848 torque specs from Service Manual. Tools Used Dremel with cutter #195, and disc #EZ456 Pipe cutter Metric allen wrenches and sockets Torque wrench Hand file Circlip pliers Exhaust spring puller Portable vice Parts Used Eyrwbvfr's adapter or Extreme Creations conversion kit Brembo P3 rear caliper Brembo 4767 rear master cylinder Brembo reservoir (Stock reservoir works fine but is huge) Brake reservoir line, 2 feet from local motorcycle shop (I looked for Brembo brake line locally because why not, but had no luck) Ducati #11720611A push rod Ducati #18410051A brake rod fork Ducati #85010151A quick fastening push rod clip The above Ducati parts catalog lists all Ducati bikes with associated part numbers to help with your search. My Ducati parts came from Fast By Ferracci NOS inventory, eBay seller bendwin. Installed aluminum tube for brake pedal to fit Ducati quick clip. In case Al tube fails, will replace Al with a steel jig bushing from McMaster Stainless Narrow-Base Weld Nuts M510 pack You only need 2, they come in a 10 pack Stainless Unthreaded Spacer 13 mm OD, 3 mm Long, for M5 Screw Size Priced individually, get 2 I used 5mm x 20mm Ti bolts I "borrowed" from a bike stem in my bike parts bin. These Ti bike stem bolts include a small washer that fits the tight space in the modified footrest. Bolts for adapter provided by Eyrwbvfr’s kit. ProBolt has a nice collection of Ti bolts as used by KevCarver. Spiegler Brake Light Switch SKU: 1180107 Type: Fine M10x1.0 Speed Bleeder SKU: SB1010 Type: Fine M10x1.0 Stock 5th Gen rear rotor (I used ECB for VFR) Stock 5th Gen rear brake line (1) No 00 rubber plug I’ll monitor the rubber stopper and keep looking for a better solution. Though after 11 months of use (Sept ‘20-Aug ‘21), it looks and functions as new. Red thread lock (Loctite Red 271) New x-acto #11 Dupont Teflon Grease for Ducati quick pin and Al tube in VFR pedal Red Rubber Grease Marine Grease Presta valve nut from Specialized Turbo Presta Tube I lightly sprayed both footrests with this silver color when I removed the axle bolt for another issue. I also used this color for the top triple when I converted the front end. The stock 5th Gen pedals replaced with CBR/6th Gen clones (Emgo Footpegs 54-20011) and new cotter pins. Quality on Emgo pegs hit and miss. My first set needed a lot of cleaning up with wire dremel, the 2nd set, perfect. Brembo P34 and P32 Rear Calipers, Which Brembo’s To Avoid Though a Ducati 848 and Ducati 1299 Panigale R both use a version of a P34 rear caliper with the same brake pads, the 848 uses a 11mm rear MC while the Panigale requires a 13mm rear MC. Ducati 848 P34 Caliper This model is installed on my 5th Gen. I use an 11mm Brembo rear MC. Ducati 1299 Brembo P34 Caliper This model requires a 13mm rear MC I do not know how this Brembo will perform with 14mm Honda/Nissin rear MC as used on my delinked system prior to installing an 848 rear caliper. To expand your search beyond Ducati motorcycles, eBay store Gotham Cycles has a list of ≈ 480 motorbikes that use a P34. To get the list, go to eBay store Gotham Cycles and search the store for “P34”, select a P34 caliper and “See compatible vehicles”. Remember to match the MC to your P34 for best performance. Avoid Radial Ported P32F calipers as shown below. They may interfere with your wheel choice and lead to bad things happening. My knowledge on Brembo calipers and rear MC’s is limited. I was fortunate to have locally purchased a low mileage 848 swingarm minus wheel / pushrod to ensure my caliper and rear MC played well together. The list below is from AMS Ducati Dallas. See above pictures for “Ducati 848 Brembo P34 Caliper” and Ducati 1299 Brembo P34 Caliper” examples Brembo P34 Year Make Model 2012-13 Ducati 1199 Panigale 2012-14 Ducati 1199 Panigale S 2012-13 Ducati 1199 Panigale S Tricolore 2014 Ducati 1199 Panigale Superleggera 2015 Ducati 1299 Panigale 2015 Ducati 1299 Panigale S 2003 Ducati 749 2004-06 Ducati 749 Dark 2004-06 Ducati 749 R 2003-06 Ducati 749 S 2008-10 Ducati 848 2011-13 Ducati 848 EVO 2012-13 Ducati 848 EVO Corse SE 2010 Ducati 848 Hayden 2014-15 Ducati 899 Panigale 2003-06 Ducati 999 2003-06 Ducati 999 R 2006 Ducati 999 R Xerox 2003-06 Ducati 999 S 2007 Ducati 999 S AMA Replica 2008-09 Ducati Hypermotard 1100 2010-12 Ducati Hypermotard 1100 EVO 2010-12 Ducati Hypermotard 1100 EVO SP 2008-09 Ducati Hypermotard 1100 S 2010-12 Ducati Hypermotard 796 2009-10 Ducati Monster 1100 2010 Ducati Monster 1100 ABS 2012 Ducati Monster 1100 EVO ABS 2009-10 Ducati Monster 1100 S 2010 Ducati Monster 1100 S ABS 2011-12 Ducati Monster 796 2011-12 Ducati Monster 796 ABS 2010-12 Ducati Multistrada 1200 2015 Ducati Multistrada 1200 2010-14 Ducati Multistrada 1200 ABS 2015-17 Ducati Multistrada 1200 S 2010 Ducati Multistrada 1200 S ABS 2013-14 Ducati Multistrada 1200 S GT 2012-14 Ducati Multistrada 1200 S Pikes Peak 2011-12 Ducati Multistrada 1200 S Sport 2010-14 Ducati Multistrada 1200 S Touring 2013-15 Ducati Panigale R 1999-03 Ducati ST2 2004-07 Ducati ST3 2006-07 Ducati ST3 S ABS 1999-03 Ducati ST4 2001-05 Ducati ST4 S 2003-05 Ducati ST4 S ABS 2010-11 Ducati Streetfighter 2012-15 Ducati Streetfighter 848 2010-13 Ducati Streetfighter S 2003-06 Ducati Supersport 1000 2003-07 Ducati Supersport 800 Brembo P32G Axial Port Eyrwbvfr has a 2nd adapter that will work with this smaller caliper 1997-98 Ducati ST2 1999-02 Ducati Supersport 750 2001-02 Ducati Supersport 750 S 1999-02 Ducati Supersport 900 2002 Ducati Supersport 900 S Avoid the following Radial Ported calipers as they may interfere with your wheel choice and lead to bad things happening: Brembo P32F Radial Ports Year Make Model 1995-01 Ducati 748 2001-02 Ducati 748 E 1998-02 Ducati 748 R 2000-01 Ducati 748 RS 2000-02 Ducati 748 S 1998-99 Ducati 748 SPS 1994-97 Ducati 916 1997-98 Ducati 916 R 1994-98 Ducati 916 Senna 1994-96 Ducati 916 SP 1997-98 Ducati 916 SPS 1999-01 Ducati 996 1999 Ducati 996 R 2001 Ducati 996 R 1999 Ducati 996 S 2001 Ducati 996 S 1999-00 Ducati 996 SPS 2002-03 Ducati 998 2004 Ducati 998 Matrix 2002 Ducati 998 R 2002 Ducati 998 S Bayliss 2002 Ducati 998 S Bostrom 2004 Ducati 998 S FE 2003-04 Ducati Monster 1000 1995-08 Ducati Monster 400 2005 Ducati Monster 400 Dark 1993-01 Ducati Monster 600 1999 Ducati Monster 600 City 1998-99 Ducati Monster 600 Dark 1999 Ducati Monster 600 Dark City 2002-06 Ducati Monster 620 2005-06 Ducati Monster 620 Dark 2005 Ducati Monster 620 Dark Single Disc 2007-08 Ducati Monster 695 1996-02 Ducati Monster 750 1999 Ducati Monster 750 City 1999 Ducati Monster 750 Dark 1999 Ducati Monster 750 Dark City 2003-04 Ducati Monster 800 1993-02 Ducati Monster 900 1999 Ducati Monster 900 City 1998 Ducati Monster 900 Cromo 1999 Ducati Monster 900 Dark City 1998 Ducati Monster 900 S 2001-02 Ducati Monster S4 2002 Ducati Monster S4 Fogarty 1993-97 Ducati Supersport 400 1991-97 Ducati Supersport 600 1991-97 Ducati Supersport 750 1991-98 Ducati Supersport 900 1998 Ducati Supersport 900 FE

Though not a member of "The Band" I was going to tag along next Sat the 28th. Was looking forward to meeting new people and 128 eastbound on motorbike. Since it sounds like the ride next Sat is not happening, I planned on riding Skaggs from Stewards Pt this week depending on air quality. That road is super fun! I'm not familiar with Calistoga Grade, is that 29 from Calistoga to Middletown?

KevCarver had the same issue with red led for Fi. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/93624-pre-refurb-questions/&tab=comments#comment-1107966 I did what he did, used regular bulb for Fi, installed LED's and now have a "Super Blue LCD Screen" From Kev's post:

Fairing clips?? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HMZEXSG and well nuts just in case https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Well-Nuts-M5-8-Length/dp/B0040D2P7E

Nice ride! I too was in Pt Reyes Station this afternoon. Up Mill Valley via Edgewood/Sequoia, Panoramic, Stinson, Pt Reyes Station back through Nicasio Valley and SFD. Beautiful day for a ride. Here I'm waiting across the street from Mt Home Inn for a bus I was behind to move ahead. And thanks to the BMW driver going westbound on Pt Reyes - Petaluma Rd. who warned me about the CHP waiting ahead!

IF after troubleshooting (Section 17-3 Service Manual ) and your coils are really done, here is another vote for coil on plugs (COP) On my 5th gen, I used Gixxer COP's and CBR COP wiring harness. Gixxer COP 06-07 GSXR600/GSXR750 Denso 129700-4800 CBR COP Harness 08-16 CBR1000RR I swapped the CBR plugs to black. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-4-CBR-...l-Connectors-Honda-Suzuki-Yamaha/221427973335 This post includes video: https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/67684-5th-gen-coil-on-plug-setup/ This from adkfinns refresh, 2nd post down https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/87690-adkfinns-5th-gen-20yr-refresh/page/2/

I also use a Brembo (P34c) rear brake system from an 848 using eyrwbvfr's adaptor, works great! https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/94916-5th-gen-rear-brake-adapter-interest-check/ I have a rough draft how-to on installing a Brembo rear brake system using eyrwbvfr's adaptor. Once completed, I'll include the how-to on adaptor thread above.

Danno, thanks for the info. Did not know about 775's and the false information regarding them. Cogswell's question and Grum's answer now has me thinking, should I add a fuse and possibly remove the C/B? Felt odd during install there was no fuse. Here's some more info with pictures on how I mounted the 847. I used the following stainless hardware. The narrow base weld nuts came from mcmaster, other hardware from local hardware store. M6 button head 40 mm length (2) M6 fender washer (2) M6 standard washer (2) M6 narrow-base weld nut (2) https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/127/3472 The 847 is mounted on subframe using Jack's wiring harness. After a few measurements to make sure the R/R had clearance for cowl, I drilled a couple of holes and mounted as shown above. All instructions I read regarding this upgrade said "connect to stator" so I took them literally and ordered extra long yellow 12 gauge copper marine grade wires. Once everything was apart including removing enough oil to open alternator cover, I could not figure out how to route the thicker yellow wires using the same path taken by the OEM wires. (I've included a parts diagram below for reference) After a phone call with Jack, he said "connect to stator" was not literal; anywhere after the connector would work. The yellow wires did not make it directly to stator but just on the other side of the rubber plug/seal that sits between the alternator cover and the engine case. All wires were soldered to linesman/western-union/NASA spec and sealed with silicon. Two 40mm bolts, some washers and a couple of narrow base weld nuts keeps it tidy. Don't know size specs for a 775, this may or may not work for a 775. Fitzer, sounds like a 775 is a great choice. Jack (https://roadstercycle.com/) sells 775's so there's a supplier many VFRD users trust. As mentioned earlier, Mello Dude was selling plates that could be of use. Jack has a few videos that may be of interest https://www.youtube.com/user/Roadstercycle/videos He's got a series of videos on his Mustang GT Tesla swap! Good luck with your conversion. It's great having peace of mind knowing your electrical system will work and take you home safely.

sfdownhill wrote a how to on the other forum: https://vfrworld.com/threads/photos-of-no-drama-r-r-from-roadstercycle-com.54584/ Shindengen SH847 series-style r/r from roadstercycle.com (Jack) is a good source. Jack's site is informative, you can get info on why SH847 is a good choice.

@sfdownhill is your contact person. From Nov 2019, page 26 of this thread: https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/88463-new-5th6th8th-gen-performance-header-now-in-production-in-usa/page/26/&tab=comments#comment-1102353 I'm using the map but plan on having one custom made.

Removed Heat Shield Thanks, compared to my old 2000.5 Aprilia Mille R, this set up does not bother me. I have some titanium wrap that Gig suggested just in case. I'm a safe lane splitter so I'm always moving and that helps. Once in a while in heavy city traffic when the engine is running at 220 I can feel some heat, though not enough to do anything about it. Loading Maps to PC3 Model 111-410 I could not get a map to load without the 9v adaptor. Like you, I was able to wake the PC3 with the bike turned on (not running), but would get an error message. I tried to with the bike running and found the same error. Problem solved with the battery adaptor.

Do you have the PC5 installed? In case your '98 does not like PC5 like my '99 did, here's how you update your PC5 firmware. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/91204-power-commander-v-fix-for-2000-2001-vfrs/&tab=comments#comment-1104439 Our bikes are snowflakes, they're all different. What works one one bike may not yield the same performance metrics on another. Lots of variables involved. Thought there are some PC maps on VFRD's download section that may help: https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/category/1-power-commander-maps/ Don't worry about some of them being PC3, your PC5 app to load the maps, "Power Commander V Software" will convert them. A good place to start would be with map M101-303 (1998-1999 Honda VFR 800, Erion full exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter) Best obviously would be to get your bike to a professional tuner and get your injectors cleaned!! Many of us use RC Fuel Injection in Torrance CA. https://www.rcfuelinjection.com/ Though he's on this side of the country, he's great. Fast service and provides a before and after report so you can see how bad your injectors were performing. I'm sure that Black Widow sounds wonderful, they definitely look great. Good luck!

I have a '99 with WiLD headers, Staintune, PC3 Model 111-410, Attack map and it works fine. I bought this 9V battery adapter for PC3, I used it to load the map. https://www.ebay.com/itm/253484941321

Not sure which gen VFR you're interested in converting and don't have detailed instructions on conversion but here's some info that could help. Here's a nice article on the '99 RC45 Castrol version with double sided swingarms. http://www.simonevans.co.uk/v-four/rc45-99.htm And here's a video of the '98 RC45 Lucky Stripe Suzuka winner in the Honda Museum. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-F1JxSpZxuY I included a few pictures of the Lucky Stripe bike. I'm sure someone out there can make you a vinyl wrap to fit your Repsol needs. At one point Thurn Motorsport in Germany sold a rear fairing to match RC45 style. http://www.thurn-motorsport.de/html/hocker-rc46-1.html His website is in German and has not been updated in years/decades The owner Gerhard can be reached at info@thurn-motorsport.de, very pleasant to deal with. As of last April when I purchased an item from him, he was shipping to the US. Good luck with your build, Sounds like a fun build Regarding the unbalanced look ducnut mentioned, a wider 6 inch rim may help. https://www.extremecreations.com.au/1098-ducati-hub-conversion-kit-for-vfr800 Note: price is in Australian Dollars (aud) Extreme Creations just made a new batch of kits to convert a 5th gen swingarm to a single nut Ducati wheel with Brembo brakes. You can use the kit with 848 hubs for 5.5 inch wheels or 1098/1198 hubs to convert to 6.0. Lots of sexy 6.0 wheels for 1098/1198 available. But then you'll have to do something about the front end. '04-'06 R1 forks with custom triples from our own SebSpeed would round out the build. If you go this route, I suggest you explore purchasing a complete 848/1098/1198 swingarm for a better value. If you're are willing to wait, they can be had on eBay for as little as $250 shipped. Pricing the Ducati parts individually is not cost effective. I was lucky and locally found a swingarm with Brembo P34 caliper, master cylinder, brake hanger, spacers, spindle, eccentric hub for a great price. I then sold the swingarm on craigslist and my final price was less than what I've seen P34 calipers sell for on eBay. Keef started this: https://www.customfighters.com/threads/keefs-vfr8.66581/#/topics/66581?page=1 And Gig's threads; https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/82963-single-nut-conversion-vfr800-hrc-rc45-style-one-more/page/5/&tab=comments#comment-1079891 https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/87432-my-399-lb-vfr848/ Have Fun!

Nice work! Really like that blue with white wheels. Where did you get the new oil pipes??

The website is not up-to-date. Contact Gerhard directly. (Thurn Motorsport <info@thurn-motorsport.de>) Last April, I reached out to him regarding parts for my 5th gen. He was quick to respond with his current delivery program.

The SP is sweet, nice scoot. In 20/30 years someone will be working on their SP conversion. There's someone on Instagram (@rc30replica) making slow progress on his RC36-2 to RC30 conversion. He claims to have a source for reproduced RC30 tanks and fairings in Spain. How's your Spanish? Maybe this contact in Spain will lead to a tank and fairing that will work with your RC24. In my limited RC24 knowledge I've not come across a RC24 to RC30 conversion. It would be fun to see one completed. Best of luck if you move forward. With a RC24 perhaps a Flyin Fred Merkel VFR750 Superbike Replica? http://www.darrenbeggcustoms.com/?p=697 This build is something. Now apologies for the slight hijack but figured this may help someone (maybe me:-) plan a future project. This thread subject (RC30 Replica Research) reminded me of a post I read somewhere on the internet where TYGA was working on a conversion kit for RC36-2 to RC30. Being that they now sell left and right exit exhaust for RC35-2, I reached out to TYGA and Paul answered below. "The conversion you describe below is something we would like to do. There was a customer in Australia or New Zealand who recently did this conversion but only the exhaust was TYGA. We do have a 1993 RC36 available for such a conversion. The main issue is lack of time at the moment. I hope to clear some of our other projects later this year so we can focus on this one. At the least, we will make a different final section of the exhaust to make the silencer angle be more correct for the RC30 rep." Good luck and keep us posted on your progress!!

👍 Lets hear it! Post a vid on YouTube

Another vote for RC: https://www.rcfuelinjection.com/Store/c/fuel-injector-cleaning They return your injectors with a before and after flow rate report. I've attached a copy of my Feb '21 report for my Super Tenere. They were "Dripping" at 257 and 369 cc per minute. After cleaning, flow rate improved to "Excellent" at 419 and 420 cc per minute. In the past 5 years, I've shipped sets for my VFR, Tenere and Volvo turbo wagon, they've always come back with a balanced flow rate. You can ship your 4 injectors using USPS Priority Mail Small Flat Rate Box, 1-2 day turn around time. Tenere_Injectors_Clean.pdf

There's a yellow 25k mile 5th gen in your neighborhood: $2350 https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/mcy/d/windsor-vfr-800/7285796313.html