jefferson

Went for a ride today and as I was filling up beforehand another benefit to the center stand became apparent. You can fill the tank to the brim instead of how full you can fill it on the side stand. I'm not a fan of staddling the bike to hold it upright while filling the tank.

I just really like being able to put it on the center stand in the garage and be able to work on the left side same as the right. It would also be real handy if a flat rear happened out on the road. I want it light, but practical.

I also really like the fact that they have replacement panels to take the place of the factory panels that don't fit with their exhaust, even one in carbon. The killer for me is no center stand. There's no doubt it would be lighter and have to make more power than the collector stock system.

Pictures of the ti ZRX fairing mount.

The first picture is the rt. passenger peg mount the way I was going to run it and then I realized none of it was needed except the tab to mount the side panel, hence the second photo. Took a couple of tries to get it lined up with the hole in the side panel as there was nothing there to hold it in place while tightening. Had to wedge a screwdriver between the ti bolt and the side of the hole. The picture is pre ti bolts. I thought I found a guy to do a ti fairing mount or subframe. One of the ZRX guys who is way beyond me had a ti fairing mount done for his bike. When I inquired about his source he responded after the 3 months it took him to do his he wasn't looking to do any more. He saved right at a pound. The price was never divulged. I would have to weigh the ZRX piece and then the mount off the VFR to see how they compare weight wise.

How in the world do you put your feet down at a stop or use the kickstand? Looks cool, but not very practical.

I believe there are "myths" associated with all things. They take safety to the extreme and they sell more parts. One so called myth is that you replace sprockets and chain as a set. I'm on the 3rd chain on my ZRX with the same sprockets and they are no worse for the wear. On the subject of old tires that get hard and offer no grip I will relate my experience with a 650 Seca that I had just bought and there was a large group going to Arkansas that weekend. These were the stock oem tires on the bike and I didn't have time to get new tires and then mount and balance so I decided I would go and just take it easy. The more I rode the more I kept pushing things and those tires worked amazing. They were balling up on the sides like race tires. Everyone was astonished at what they were doing and capable of. They were 11 years old at the time as that was 93. When I got back home they were wasted. They did the exact opposite of what I had always read and been told. Everyone can do what they want, but just be aware that what you have always heard may not be true. Lawyers and our litigious society have a lot of bearing on these things and what their recommendation are as far as safety limits related to age etc.

One thing I did that made the job much easier was a good clean and lube on the pivot of the centerstand. My 93 is much older than yours, but mine went from difficult to get on the stand to easy and it didn't look that bad when I took it apart.

I came across a 4th gen that had a good front end on it which is what I wanted and I'm looking at parting out all the rest. There is no bodywork or instruments. The engine is locked in gear and the gear change does nothing so something is broke on the inside. Did I mention it had been wrecked, and not just once as there were repairs I found from a previous mishap. I had a key made and it appears all the locks work with it. If you need something let me know and I will see if I have it and assess it's condition.

It's been awhile and some more has been accomplished. I bought a 4th gen for the front end and the lower triple. Going to part out all the other. No weights yet on anything as that will be a winter project. Thinking about machining off the center rib on the wheel since I will have to get it powder coated anyway. Doing that to some other wheels resulted in 1/2 to 3/4 lb savings. More bolts have saved .84 lb and the clutch line saved .28 The rt. passenger peg bracket is just a mount for the bodywork now with a total savings of 1.09 lbs. and it looks like I didn't get that picture loaded onto the computer. Stay tuned.

I saw a 4th gen on utube yesterday that the guy was selling and it had a carbon fiber front fender on it. I'm pretty sure the fenders are the same for the 3rd and 4th gens. He couldn't remember where he got it and I haven't been able to find one searching. Does anyone here have a line on one?

This sounds real good to me. Been there many times on the Seca and ZRX, but it has been way too many years and I need to get in the habit of going back down there as it's really hard to beat.

From my way of thinking if a cyl. is missing then the fuel isn't being burned and there should be a rich mixture. That would be if a spark induced miss. An injector issue would cause a miss and be lean if it wasn't injecting the proper amount of fuel.

What is your battery voltage with the bike idling and revving? You might have a charging issue, especially if you still have the stock R/R.

Nothing is visible except the head so had no clue as to what was below. Looked like a bb pressed into a hole.

Now i know, Thanks.

So it's for frame tag or id plate. That was my initial thought. Grum. Yes these are even smaller than what we call bb's. Not sure what you guys call them. A very small ball bearing would also suffice. Looks like they are pressed into the hole, but stand proud.

I'm wondering if anyone knows the purpose of the 3 bb's in the upper rt. frame rail in the vicinity of the steering head. Kind of reminds me of a frame tag missing or something. Only thing I can come up with is something to minimize a harmonic. Not a big deal, just curious.

Time for a battery. 1st start was ok, but it took a charge off the battery that wasn't replaced by running. 2nd time there was a weaker battery and the 3rd was the worst as each time you took from the battery without replacing the charge but running for awhile. A good battery wouldn't be affected by that, and Yes, heat is bad for a battery.

Hi jefferson, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Is this The Steve Rapp of road racing fame?

I don't know which unit you mounted there, but I can tell it's not the 847. If I cut off one of the mounting tabs and remove some of the fin height in areas it may be doable. It would have been nice if Shindengen hadn't put the mounting tabs on the outside of the unit which just made it even wider.

Yeh, nice. Kind of hard to tell exactly what you did due to the angle, but I have looked at alot of things to drill and lighten. Just takes more time. Air is always lighter than metal. Can't do any bandsaw work right now as my blade kept jumping off and I took some of the bearings off to clean and lubricate as they weren't in too good of shape. Turns out there is an eccentric on the back that is very thin and I haven't been able to find the wrench that fits it so it looks like I may have to make something.

I personally like the 5th gen 5 spoke alot, so i think it looks pretty good. A 4th gen 5 spoke would have killed it for me.

Well it looks like a moot point as the guy won't even respond on faceplant. Ad is still up and I have messaged several times. I hate inconsiderate jerks like that. At least I have some good info for the future.