Hingley Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 Thinking about the fork lower with the stripped bolt last night and I think I may use a cheap allen wrench and JB weld it into the hole. That should take care of the issue. I really don't want to inadvertently drill into the leg and then have a leak due to the damage. I've drilled out a bunch. The bad head will release before you get anywhere near the fork lower, just use a bit that is slightly larger than the bolt shaft.. And you already have the perfect pilot hole and the extra safety cushion of a thick crush washer. I don't even sweat it anymore when they round out on old forks. The remaining piece in the cartridge unit comes out easily, usually with my fingers. Talk about timing and you guys having the right answer, I finally found some time today to tackle the removal of the front forks on the 99 VFR, and I found that someone before me must have been into the forks as one allen bolt head shows signs of removal and of course I finished the job by totally stripping out the allen head. So it is time for the drill out trick but I have to ask a question. What is the size of drill you guys like?, is the bolt shaft 6mm?, 7mm?, and what is the best cutting drill bit these days, I got a bunch of old crap drill bits here but I think this job deserves better. Looks like it is time for a quality grade set of allen wrenches as well. And while we are at it I am wondering that once I get into the forks is there a way to determine if the original fork springs have been upgraded to aftermarket?, Do aftermarket springs have markings?, stampings?, different coil pattern?? Thanks Guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain 80s Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 1 hour ago, Hingley said: Thinking about the fork lower with the stripped bolt last night and I think I may use a cheap allen wrench and JB weld it into the hole. That should take care of the issue. I really don't want to inadvertently drill into the leg and then have a leak due to the damage. I've drilled out a bunch. The bad head will release before you get anywhere near the fork lower, just use a bit that is slightly larger than the bolt shaft.. And you already have the perfect pilot hole and the extra safety cushion of a thick crush washer. I don't even sweat it anymore when they round out on old forks. The remaining piece in the cartridge unit comes out easily, usually with my fingers. Talk about timing and you guys having the right answer, I finally found some time today to tackle the removal of the front forks on the 99 VFR, and I found that someone before me must have been into the forks as one allen bolt head shows signs of removal and of course I finished the job by totally stripping out the allen head. So it is time for the drill out trick but I have to ask a question. What is the size of drill you guys like?, is the bolt shaft 6mm?, 7mm?, and what is the best cutting drill bit these days, I got a bunch of old crap drill bits here but I think this job deserves better. Looks like it is time for a quality grade set of allen wrenches as well. And while we are at it I am wondering that once I get into the forks is there a way to determine if the original fork springs have been upgraded to aftermarket?, Do aftermarket springs have markings?, stampings?, different coil pattern?? Thanks Guys The bolt shaft is 8mm, so a bit bigger than that. Like 10mm or so. Get yourself a nice new premium drill bit, like cobalt as VFR750F3 suggested. The stock springs will have coils that get closer towards one end (down if installed correctly), but I don't think they are technically "progressive". Aftermarket straight rate springs (like you want) will all be evenly spaced. If a previous owner went thru the process of installing straight rate springs, they likely sourced applicable (usable) examples, unless they were abnormally light or heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hingley Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 Thanks Capt, spent most of the afternoon here trying to remove that fork allen bolt, no luck so off to get a 10mm cobalt bit Monday morning I took the other fork apart and it looks to have the stock spring in it, I was not thinking of getting a new set of fork springs but maybe I will have a look , been out of the performance parts for 20 years so it will be interesting to see the options today Like the allen socket, there will be a set of those for sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain 80s Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 Spend the hundred bucks on springs... Hondas are notoriously undersprung and you can't over come it with preload. Money well spent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 On 1/13/2023 at 3:39 PM, jefferson said: Thinking about the fork lower with the stripped bolt last night and I think I may use a cheap allen wrench and JB weld it into the hole. That should take care of the issue. I often had success whacking a torx bit into the stripped allen head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted January 15 Member Contributer Share Posted January 15 If I have a dollar for every time I've heard that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hingley Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 What is the thoughts of the members when it comes to fork springs? Is there a brand that most seem to go to or is it simply that they are all better than the originals?, and user preference rules. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted January 15 Member Contributer Share Posted January 15 Tried many. Any quality spring will be fine. They seem to be $100-$150/pair. Straight rate, the correct rate, and proper preload setting is 99%. You'll never overcome the wrong spring rate with preload settings, despite what the Internet tells you! race-tech has a pretty good calculator, but it isn't perfect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted January 15 Member Contributer Share Posted January 15 9 hours ago, bmart said: If I have a dollar for every time I've heard that... Well, it does work. I'd recommend a spline bit (veeltand) over torx though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain 80s Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 15 hours ago, bmart said: Tried many. Any quality spring will be fine. They seem to be $100-$150/pair. Straight rate, the correct rate, and proper preload setting is 99%. You'll never overcome the wrong spring rate with preload settings, despite what the Internet tells you! race-tech has a pretty good calculator, but it isn't perfect! Totally concur. I usually run Race Tech mostly because of availability and some times I can find a sale. Also use Sonic. I find the RT calculator a touch high for me, and I like my suspension on the stiffer side. I usually go down on their spring and oil height recommendation for my weight (185) and riding style (street, expert, stiff). That would give me 1.00 spring on my VFR, but I go 0.90. And I usually run 10mm less oil height, but stick with the pre-load recommendation to start with. All personal preference I know, but Im not the only one that thinks RT runs a little high. I guess you should start your fork rebuild thread Hingley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted January 15 Member Contributer Share Posted January 15 8 hours ago, Captain 80s said: find the RT calculator a touch high for me, and I like my suspension on the stiffer side. Can you explain? It sounds like you like it on the softer side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain 80s Posted January 16 Share Posted January 16 16 hours ago, bmart said: Can you explain? It sounds like you like it on the softer side. Yeah. I'm saying that even though I like it on the stiffer side, I find their recommendation (for street, expert, stiff) even too high for the application. I put 1.00 springs in my ST1100 (700+lbs) and they are PLENTY stiff with the recommended pre-load. RT recommended 1.10 (that they don't even make). I wouldn't want 1.0 in my VFR. I also find their oil height to be a little high and it takes away a little initial suppleness (to me). Way easier to add a few mm of oil to bring it in to a preference feel. Again, personal preference plays into this of course, and everyone has a different idea of "firm". But I don't think I'm way off on this, and anybody that rides my bikes never come away thinking they are under sprung, or "soft". 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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