Hingley

Corbin made these for a short time, but even up here there are a few kicking around, I just had to buy the bike to get a set 🙂 they made them for the 1998-2001 VFR800 but I did see one set for a 1994-1997 VFR750, once they also made a set for the VTR1000 and others but I have never seen a listing of the different models from Corbin I also believe they made a set for the 2002- ????? VFR800 but they have got to be the strangest looking hard bag I have seen Just be sure that if you are looking for a set that the original brackets are with the bags, I have seen three of four sets of bags for sale but had no brackets with them and by the look of the brackets unless you are a good fabricator pass on the bags or get them real cheap because it will take a lot of time to mock up a set of brackets. Attached is the only copy of the mount instructions I have ever found, thanks to a fellow VFRer enjoy the hunt.

Thanks for the great feed back, I have been thinking I could use a new Carburetor Synchronizer, I have an old Motion Pro Mercury Vac type here but the mercury? has dried up Does anyone have an suggestions as to a good quality Carburetor Synchronizer?

Well guys it is full blown winter here on the east coast so it is time to try and solve a problem and I hope someone can save me some time. A little background first to help I have a 1999 VFR800 with 50,000km ( 30,000 miles ) on it, during the winter of 2022-23 I went through the whole bike servicing anything that looked like it was needed, including removal of the PAIR system and having the injector system looked at and cleaned ( not by a injector service company ). I also checked the valve clearances and installed new plugs, fuel tank was clean with no rust and fuel pump seems fine etc etc. After everything was put back together I had the injectors balanced by resetting the starter valves. I should say at this point it was tough to get the injectors balanced as one of the starter adjustment valves did not seem to have much effect on the balance value for that cylinder, in the end it was real close to the balance numbers needed and the guy doing the balancing said it would be fine. The problem I am having is that when starting the bike cold I have to set the choke fully closed ( expected ) but I have to hit the starter for three or four seconds, three or four times before she will fire up. Once she fires and is warmed up she will fire up at the touch of the button ( without choke ) So can anyone give me a little guidance as to where I should start looking? This is the first fuel injection bike I have had and I am not sure what I am looking at most of the time, long live old farts. Thanks

What a amazing area you have to ride in, to be honest I never knew Cal ( I assume Northern ) had such county, sure would like to see it someday On the east coast of Canada today it is warm 🙂, -2c with snow on the ground

Amazing looking country to ride in be the looks of it, Amazing what a few thousand km north can do, snowing here today and road salting the higher elevation roads, what fun.

The lazy start and resetting clock is a sign of a need for an impending battery replacement. But would do no harm to put a multimeter across the battery when running and checking that you have 13.5-14.5V at that point (which would show the charging system was healthy). If sure this is one of the first thing I plan to do, when I restored the bike a couple of years ago I upgraded the charging regulator to a Mosfet FH020AA and hard lined the stator wires but I plan to check the stator output as well test the regulator I also think I have to check out the fuel injection system or at least the starter valves, I had the injectors checked and cleaned during the rebuild but she has always been a little lazy starting, ( when cold it takes two or three tries before she will fire up on choke ), after that you hardly have to touch the starter button. I suspect the starter valves are not right or is it possible that the fuel pump can loss pressure sitting around for a number of days and has to reprime before it will fire up?

Dam that CB4X design is impressive, Honda sure has got a lot of milage out of the 400 in line 4 motor, if I am not mistaken that motor is from the CB1 back in 89-90

Well today was the last day to have a ride before old yeller goes to sleep for the winter, today it was 60 degrees which is unheard of this time of year Looks like I have a little work to do this winter as well. today when I was firing her up she was lazy to start and when I hit the starter button the second time she started to turn over but stopped, I hit the starter again and she fired up and ran fine the next of the day, trouble is I noticed shortly after that my clock and trip meter had reset, so something is going on. I think I will be checking the clutch and clutch plates this winter as well, she has a slight shutter at around 2500-3000 rpm if putting along in a higher gear like third Have a good one

Man, if there was a lottery win in my near future I know what the first purchase call would be for, what a cool kit to have, and all the pieces needed are there instead of looking for 10 years. I know I will never see one for sale up here but I must see if there are any around completed and for sale

I just got back from a short ride and was wondering if any of you guys have had much luck with fuel additives helping to clean the injectors etc. while riding By the looks of my work load etc. a good additive may help a great deal since I only put on 500-600km a year I have heard a number of people liking the Seafoam product referred to as Marine treatment, can says it stabilizes fuel for two years and cleans injectors/carbs Any Thoughts? Ride Safe and fast

God Dam Capt. That paint on your 4th gen is truly amazing, a person could get lost looking at how deep the coat is, there must be a pile of fine wet sanding followed by polishing compound for hours

My god, how cool it would be to have a factory cut away of the RC30 sitting in the living room under glass.

Hi Hingley, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

I did! Unfortunately the closest one to me doesn't want anything to do with my bike (they tell me that they cant get parts for bikes over 15 years old This is pure Bullshit from the Canadian Powersport Dealer, I have ordered parts for my 1975 CB400F Racer up to my 1999 VFR800 and if Honda had a listing for the part they never had a problem ordering Go find a real Honda Powersport Dealer instead of a lazy parts guy who is too busy looking on his I Phone.

I will be very interested in seeing how you get along and how well the new paint matches the old pieces, unless you are doing a complete respray.

I am by no means an expert on the 1998-2001 VFR's but when I read this the first thing I think of is that the 1998-1999 VFR's had an exhaust system without O2 sensors etc. while the 2000-2001 had an exhaust with O2 sensors and was a different design.

I dropped into the local Honda dealer today to smell the new Honda Plastic and was quite taken with my first impression of the new 2024 Tran Alp 750 I found the design components were smaller than the Africa Twin and the seat looked like I could almost live with it The problem was I noticed a small pool of Honda Coolant on the floor under the bike just below the water pump area. I thought at first this must be one that got through production somehow with a bad seal somewhere or the coolant tank was over filled during assembly, that is until I noticed the other new Trans Alp in the show room had the same coolant leak, Christ these two must be sisters in the production. Of course the next thing was me laying on the floor to check serial numbers, to my surprise there was a 300 bike spread, about this time I caught the attention of a salesman and he asked how I was doing, I told him about the coolant leak and he just laughed and said the shop finally has something to do on a winter day and brushed it off. In all my years I never saw a Honda leak anything, let alone on the dealership floor, sign of the times I guess, sure not like the VFR's we all love.

The gasket is NLA from Honda. So . . . there are aftermarket options on ebay Interesting that you mentioned the stator gasket is NLA in the U.S. , I was into my 5th gen stator last winter and was able to get a new gasket from Honda here

What we are lubing are external roller and between the roller and the sprockets (red area in my drawing)... we are not lubing the X rings nor behind the X rings so any oil applied in that effort is a waste and will only fling off... This is dam interesting to an old guy like me, makes a lot of sense once you see it in an image I was going to soak my x ring chain in Kerosene for a few days, followed by a brush scrub but by this all I will accomplish in the end is possibly flush out or thin out the factory grease/lube behind the x rings in the chain, looks like a short Kerosene bath and little brushing will do the trick followed by a good soak in lube or 90w for a while

I think the attached video will be a better explanation than I can give

Finished cleaning the sprockets and the EK MVXZ chain ( all of which looks in good shape ), so I am just going to use the set on it for this summer. When I removed the chain I of course had to grind off the rivet master link and since I do not have a rivet chain install tool I am going to use this type of screw master link that EK has. This screw link is rated for the MVXZ chain and everything I have read about these screw links sounds positive, I know this link would not be the ticket if I was on the track or dragging a knee somewhere but those days are over Any Thoughts?

I'd start afresh and shout it new sprockets and chain, along with all the normal maintenance items, fluids, plugs, air filter, oil and filter etc. I'd also dive into the electrics, solder up all the grounds in the dreaded orange earth block, solder the stator lead wires to the R/R and its output connector, upgrade the R/R if needed and make good the Main Fuse B 30amp fuse holder and wiring. I did most of this last winter, just after I got the bike, also went through the front end ( bushings, dust seals, rotors pads ) and settled on Race tech springs and rates suggested by the Capt. ( one of the best things I could have done, what a difference in the front end ) also tore down the motor to the cams and checked all the valves, surprised to find they were within spec, removed the PAIR system while I was in there, rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder and flushed all the old brake fluid out ( clutch and brakes ), had the injection system cleaned and replaced all the water cooling hard line O rings etc., surprised how bad they were, also new thermostat, I would never have guessed it by running the motor but the old one was stick wide open, new coolant, plugs etc This winter I want to check out and update the rear systems such as chains and sprockets, I doubt I will pull the rear axle system as it rotates fine for chain adjustments and the bearings seem good I like to think I have had a lot of different bikes over the years but this 99 is better feeling than even the 90 VFR750 I have, a keeper for sure

Very nice indeed, I have not seen very more 5th gen's with that style of exhaust can, man would it be cool to see it with a black 3rd gen rear rim and with that Pearl Yellow paint

Amazing You guys have put together the best dam real life examples of chain and sprocket wear I have seen in a long time, laughable ones as well I looked for hours to find a picture of a front Honda sprocket and Grum flashes one up quicker than a knee dragging through corner 9, cool This 1999 VFR chain and sprockets do look good to my old eyes, but I have been out of the loop for years and it has 50,000km on it so I was hard pressed to think the previous owner installed Honda parts Keep it up

Afternoon guys, I was going through the chain and sprockets on the 1999 and I was wondering if you guys may know the answer to my questions I was wondering if you think this front sprocket is a Honda part . I see that it has the rubber on it to help with noise and has the correct ( stock ) number of teeth but I do not see any Honda markings, the rubber ring looks like it has depressions around the edge, my guess is from the chain. What is the best way to know if it is worn out?, the back one sits fine on the chain with no air gap between chain and rear sprocket.