astroman Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Just about to pick up a well taken care of 2000 VFR. It's bone stock, except for a windscreen. It has 36k mi on the odometer. My inclination is to change the oil, put on some new brake pads, check the valves, and flog it till I can decide what I could possibly want/need for it, but what's the fun in that? I can safely say that my first choice would be to get the rear shock sorted, but hey... So my question to you all: if you had $8-900 to put into a bone stock 5th gen vfr, what would you do, and in what order of importance? Keep in mind that I'm using this bike as a weekday commuter on the slab, and weekend warrior for fun. considering hard luggage, but I do like my tail bag for filtering. And I commute in the winter, so warm grips are going on for sure. A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted January 13, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 13, 2015 Corbin or Sargent seat, plug for a heated vest in PA winters, rework shock and resprung/valved forks. I filter daily with a Givi hard trunk, hard luggage is nice. They're great bikes, 99K on mine. Welcome to the site, post up some pics of the bike when you pick it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer motormike Posted January 13, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 13, 2015 I put on hard bags and Pazzo levers...everything else is stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted January 13, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 13, 2015 Suspension, front and rear. I have grand plans for mine but I started with suspension upgrades from Jamie D. I also put on steel braided brake lines and EBC HH pads, ASV levers and ZG windscreen but for the most part the rest is stock. The seat, engine, exhaust is all stock and I have absolutely no complaints. In fact it's my goto bike for sport riding. For the record, I have all the other bits ready to go, Power Commander, 2 Bros exhaust, PAIR block off plates, but my first priority was the suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marriedman Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 If I had it to do over again, I would have to agree with Duc. Suspension first. Fun stuff later, get the important things out of the way first though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
astroman Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 Suspension heard. I like the fact that Jamie has full cartridge kits. I could use a center stand too. Stock or are there better options out there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marriedman Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 The 2000 came with a centerstand, was yours removed? Many people do remove it, but I always liked having it. If you want a centerstand, OEM is the only solution I believe. Otherwise Pitbull seems to be the best according to general consensus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 The 2000 came with a centerstand, was yours removed? Many people do remove it, but I always liked having it. If you want a centerstand, OEM is the only solution I believe. Otherwise Pitbull seems to be the best according to general consensus. I have my factory center stand set up to be a quick release. So I ride with out it, then when I need to do maintenance, I just slap it on. It takes about 5 minutes. No big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 First thing I would buy a Service manual. Then if I was on a tight budget my first move would be hunting down clean f4i forks and 6th gen triples or just some vtr forks and then sending the factory shock and f4i/vtr forks off to Jamie (5th gen forks are 41mm so vtr forks slide right in preload and rebound; f4i forks have preload rebound and compression but are 43mm so you will need 6th gen triples). Then while you're waiting to get them back you can start tearing the bike down and delinking the brakes and pulling off all the extra emissions crap. There is so much unnecessary weight and clutter on these bikes. Stripping them down, less weight means that the suspension/engine/brakes have less work to do and perform better, easier; less clutter just makes general maintenance easier (oil changes suck with the evap canister in place, removing it allows easier oil changes with the bigger pl14610 filter). Bigger budget I would do a usd fork conversion, but this is more of a flashy than performance mod. Also I would do some preventative maintenance before you are left stranded. I would install a voltmeter, pick up an FH020aa regulator rectifier from www.roadstercycle.com and I would test the stator. If the stator tests out fine, leave it and slap the new rr on there and if its questionable order a new one from Honda. After that I would start saving up for exhaust and tuning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted January 13, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 13, 2015 2nd the onboard voltmeter. Delinking the brakes . . . . many different opinions on that. You'll have to decide yourself if you like them linked or not. Some people love em, some people can't stand them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted January 13, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 13, 2015 2nd the onboard voltmeter. Delinking the brakes . . . . many different opinions on that. You'll have to decide yourself if you like them linked or not. Some people love em, some people can't stand them. You would have to delink the brakes with the other model forks as they do not have the secondary master cylinder mounting points, just conventional caliper, I believe that is why CandyRed mentioned it. However, I agree, delinking when using stock forks is a personal preference. Going with JD's kit allows you to keep the stock forks, you just won't get compression damping adjustment with them, only rebound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L8Apex Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 The 2000 came with a centerstand, was yours removed? Many people do remove it, but I always liked having it. If you want a centerstand, OEM is the only solution I believe. Otherwise Pitbull seems to be the best according to general consensus. I have my factory center stand set up to be a quick release. So I ride with out it, then when I need to do maintenance, I just slap it on. It takes about 5 minutes. No big deal. Curious how you set that up, sounds like something I'd like to do to mine. Or is it only possible beause of the aftermarket exhaust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 not sure. i have a full 2 brother system, but its probably possible to do on nonrace headers as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer TomP Posted January 13, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 13, 2015 And... how did you set up that quick-release center stand? It's winter here, and I need a project! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandyRedRC46 Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 nothing really complex. just a nut and bolt on the right hand side and the original bolt plus a spacer on the left hand side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted January 13, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 13, 2015 Suspension, lighting, grips, decent winter tyres (PR3 or 4) and a voltmeter. That will soak up a lot of your budget . On the cheap you can do some engine farkles to smooth out the fuelling such as de-snorkel, PAIR block-off, snorkel removal. A full service including balancing the Starter Valves? New seat, brake de-linking is your choice but I'd leave it a while to see if you like them as they are, braided hoses etc can come later if your budget wont stretch. JMO. Welcome btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted January 14, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 14, 2015 nothing really complex. just a nut and bolt on the right hand side and the original bolt plus a spacer on the left hand side. A picture is worth 25 words... (right side of the bike) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raoufhakam Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 All the mods/hacks everyone is mentioning here are worth it, but i kbow we all get the itch to start thinking/doing any mods tto our bikes in the winter when you just see it sitting in the garage waiting for the white stuff to go away! But i would personally suggest keeping the bike exactly the way it is now and start riding it in spring and then you decide what mods YOU want and what mods are suitable for your use! When i first got my VFR(bought it bone stock with exception to Delkevic slip-on and tank bra) i had a lengthy list of mods i was planning on doing but o found it matching my needs as is, and only thing i changed was replacing windscreen with aftermarket one (only because it was fadded, yellowish after 14 years on the road) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted January 18, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 18, 2015 I did delink brakes with RC51calipers/RC51 master cylinder/GXSR reservoir/SS lines/bridged rear caliper/14mm rear mc/vtr fork lowers with vfr800 uppers,suspension/Penske shock/corbin/grips/4th gen bars/DB windscreen/header wrap/tail chop/LED licence plate light/y2k mirrors/custom fender brackets/CA equipment canister desmog, first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted January 18, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 18, 2015 nothing really complex. just a nut and bolt on the right hand side and the original bolt plus a spacer on the left hand side. Since you'd have to remove the headers to do a proper install, that's a great idea for shop use. I was thinking of something similar but using clevis pins with a hitch pin to secure it. And yes, sorting the suspension is the best place to start. After ensuring basic maintenance is accounted for, and the charging system is in good shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gig Posted January 18, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 18, 2015 centerstand allen key bolts mods Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimGregory Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 I like my linked brakes fine. I like my mirrors. I dont care that they have rubber covers. I look in the mirrors and see whats behind me. My suspension works great for my needs though I am still below 7000 miles. Besides the charging system I dont feel like there are so many MUST DO mods. But I'm not a canyon carving fast rider either. I just like to ride at a sporting pace and my old VFR does real well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WERA910 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 It seems to me your inclinations are pretty good. I'm on my third fifth gen... best motorcycle ever IMHO. If I had 1k to spend, it would be (in order of importance): Seat Tires Suspension after that, Voltage Meter ($3 chinese stuff is great) GPS (I move mine around between bikes, love it) bars (I've had Heli's and LSL kit, current fave is LSL) Peg Drop Header/slip on (notice how far down list). At this point you're down to personal preference on farkles. I've got: LED's 6th support and pegs De-dumbo (look it up) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enzed_viffer Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 My suspension upgrade was the single best thing I've done in the 10 years I've had the bike, and it cost around NZ$2800 (probably more than the bike's currently worth). Part of the cost was buying an Elka rear shock on a VFRD group buy, which cost me $1250, $250 of which was shipping and insurance. Then I had it gutted and replaced with Ohlins internals, which cost about $450 - money very well spent. The forks were first upgraded with Sonic Springs, then had a complete overhaul and refettling, which had to be repeated a couple of weeks later, as the springs (ordered using SS's spring calculator) were way too hard. So, new Ohlins went in, and the oil replaced again, and the valving rejigged to suit the new springs. If there's ever a next bike, I'll take it straight to KSS and get it done properly, straight off. Buying and fiddling with a Power Commander was a complete waste of time and effort, but luckily not a lot of money. Thurn LED lights were a good idea (but breaking the tail-light in the first place was not), as was the rear hugger (but I'd buy a better brand); 60/55W halogen bulbs in the headlights were already fitted, but if they weren't, they're a cheap improvement. If I hadn't been though the whole brake replacement thing on my previous bike (VTR1000), I would have done that, but as it is, I've had to replace all three rotors, pads etc. anyway, due to wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rush2112 Posted January 23, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 23, 2015 Suspension... on my Y2K I did the Jamie Daugherty CBR929 shock upgrade and the CBR600F3 fork internals w/ springs and revalving... as others have said, it is like a different bike. Set-up to your weight and style it is the single best improvement you can make. Everything else is just adjusting her to your taste after that, unless your dumping serious money in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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