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mk2davis

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mk2davis last won the day on January 8 2015

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About mk2davis

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  • Location
    Ventura, CA
  • In My Garage:
    '91 VFR750
    '01 NSR150SP
    '93 NSR250SP

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  1. This seat is in good condition with no cracks in the plastic pan and no rips in the vinyl. Please see attached pics for condition. Please use livingyoung30@yahoo.com of you are interested. Local pick up preferred, but shipping is available for $90.
  2. The pilot road 4 is a pretty amazing tire. Also look at the road smart 3. I have no experience with it, but they used the pr4 as a benchmark and the reviews are good. The rs3 is also a little cheaper. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  3. I know I'm jumping ahead, but as soon as you get the carbs figured out, and it seems like you are well on your way, check the recharging system via "the drill". This is the weak point of these bikes. While I have had success cleaning jets, I find nothing works better, especially with pilot jets, than buying new ones. Few things suck more than putting everything back together just to learn than one isn't quite clean enough. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  4. I'd pursue the whole number 4 mystery. The link below is for reference only, but usually main Jets are in the 60-180 range, depending on the bike model. I don't know if I've ever seen single digits main Jets. And a bigger number usually equals more gas (except on Weber's I think). What mods justify the jet change? Some people say the 4th Gen is lean from the factory. So you might go from a 110 (arbitrarily picked number) to 115? That would be big jump for a stock set up. Any adjustments in exhaust, intake, cam, or compression the would justify more? http://jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_street/honda_750_VF750F_INTERCEPTOR.htm Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  5. Make sure you charge your battery before you check your recharging system. It seems that maybe your stator or RR is shorting out when it gets warm. Simply buying a new battery can mask the initial issue. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  6. My bad! I can't help with the stator.... But it looks like Duc has got you covered!
  7. I went with the shindegen, forgot the model. But it's been issue free for a few years Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  8. VifferJ, welcome to the asylum! I'm curious how the Conny compares, and what is your height/weight? I'm a smaller person, 5'8" 160. I think I wouldn't mind picking up a c14, but concerned about the weight. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  9. I second the knights design letting pegs. I liked mine. I had different experiences with my 91 rr than snowdog, but maybe I was just unlucky. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  10. I've had luck cleaning the inside, mating surface of the float needle with blue magic and a q tip. Makes it all shiny and smooth. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  11. I think I had the Shindegen FH020AA. After eating OEM style ones like candy, I got 40k miles out of the Shindegen when I sold the bike. And I cannot recommend the VFRness enough. I got another full volt when I converted over from stock wiring, and the reading were much more stable.
  12. That's a sharp looking bike! Side cases are tough. I always used soft bags, and that seemed to work. Regarding the r/r, I replaced mine with the shindegen and a VFRness from Tightwad (he's a member on the forum), along with a voltmeter that's wired to the battery through a switched relay. Test your current r/r first, and if it's good, keep that in a saddlebag for cheap insurance. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  13. I'm not saying anyone's suggestion is inaccurate, because I would tend to come to the same conclusion. But to play the devil's advocate, in your initial post, you said it seem to come from the front end. So I'm wondering if you've tried rotating the front wheel while on the center stand. I hate it when I spend good money only to not solve the issue. It could be bearing? I would describe a front bearing issue differently, but still worth 5 minutes... Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  14. I should have mentioned this earlier, but the abs is why I decided to get the the 6th gen. Whatever you decide, I can't recommend a VFRness from Tightwad enough along with an onboard voltmeter. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  15. I can't help with the steering damper, I've only mounted linear ones on my nsr. Regarding it's proclivity to dive, have you thought about a heavier weight fork oil? Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
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