Member Contributer emoyer Posted January 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 9, 2014 Before I was using Rotella T6 full synthetic, but the shifting with the Mobil 1 is remarkably smoother. Hmmm. I think I might switch. I was using the T6 because its what I used in the last bike. I think I have more missed shifts than I should -- I don't think they are ALL my fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 I run Mobil 1 15w50 automotive synthetic. I don't get any clutch slippage. We used to call it "Mobil 1 red cap" here on VFRD in the old days until they changed the cap color. It had a very big following. Then it disappeared from Walmart shelves for a while. We were sad. Now it's back in select Walmart stores, but many of us old VFRD guys that ran it aren't here any more. Maybe they will come back like the oil did. I run it because it makes the bike shift super smooth. I change oil when shifting gets pretty clunky. Mileage varies. I don't think I've ever changed it before 4,000 miles (not counting first oil change), and it's usually longer. I ran the red cap stuff for years in multiple bikes and shifting was much smoother with new oil than with 4k mile oil in it. I've switched to the standard Rotella T 10W-40 stuff and my bike actually shifts smoother with that than the Mobil red cap for the entire life of the oil. it isn't synthetic, but at this point it doesn't matter to me. At $13/gallon, I will change it more often if I need to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted January 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 9, 2014 automotive oils are not designed for 10,000rpm Okay, now all we need is the research to prove that statement. I've run Castrol GTX auto oil in all my bikes up to 1990 with no issues. And many of those bikes turned 10,000 rpm, and some were redlined at 9,000. So I don't give your statement much credence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tbzep Posted January 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 9, 2014 automotive oils are not designed for 10,000rpm There was once a member here that worked for Mobil. He tested boatloads of oil samples for members on whatever viscosity and brand they were using. Motorcycle specific oils got shreaded into much lower viscosities due to shearing and fuel dilution just as quickly as automotive. He recommended 15w50 automotive oil based off of his research, even though Mobil makes a couple of motorcycle specific oils. Mobil found out that he was discussing their products and his profession on the board and made him stop. Unfortunately he had to ask Miguel to delete his account and remove all his very informative posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 My Uncle is an engineer at BP, has been for decades... his advice is the following: Make sure your bike has oil!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 My Uncle is an engineer at BP, has been for decades... his advice is the following: Make sure your bike has oil!! That's the main thing check to see if you have oil and air in the tires before a ride Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tbzep Posted January 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 9, 2014 My Uncle is an engineer at BP, has been for decades... his advice is the following: Make sure your bike has oil!! Great advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted January 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 9, 2014 Once every 7K miles or thereabouts. Takes me about 2 years... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volfy Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 That's the main thing check to see if you have oil and air in the tires before a ride :unsure2: Mkay... how do I check to see if I have oil in my tires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted January 9, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 9, 2014 Check for the sight glass or a dipstick. Usually they're found just below the valve stem. If you don't have them, you need to drill a hole in the wheel and get them installed ASAP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Check for the sight glass or a dipstick. Usually they're found just below the valve stem. If you don't have them, you need to drill a hole in the wheel and get them installed ASAP. But what if the oil is metric??....Don't you need a Honda special tool for that?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 It was basic advice for dipsticks! ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superfunkomatic Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 I've done it roughly annually - last few times it was 18,000 kilometres (11,000+ miles). No issues with Mobil 1 10w-30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Gerrys02800 Posted January 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 10, 2014 Mobile 1 10w-30 is about $15.00 a litre here, some times on sale for $12.99. I change mine @ 9000km / 5500 miles and try to plan it that when I go on a trip I am close to that mileage. I will say that the PO of my XR650L was using Castrol and I did switch it to M1 as well. Could be my age but it does seem to shift nicer. I might try a automotive oil as they go on sale all the time and a lot cheaper than $12.99. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondavfr1200dct Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 Hell I just realized you're at Kangaroo Point... Brisbane, Australia.... used to live just across the bridge on the cliffside. Exactly, great city, great location. Moved here from Raleigh, NC on a two year visa so trying to make the most of the visit. Have put 10,000k on the VFR since buying it new in June. A lot of riding left to do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 Hope you've been in touch with some of the locals there that frequent here... and I'd bet a 6-pack you've been to the story-bridge hotel (pub under the bridge) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volfy Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 FWIW, Cosco has automotive Mobil1 for cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondavfr1200dct Posted January 11, 2014 Author Share Posted January 11, 2014 Hope you've been in touch with some of the locals there that frequent here... and I'd bet a 6-pack you've been to the story-bridge hotel (pub under the bridge) Yep, great place to hang out after work, very popular and always busy!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Ace!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Think I'm using Mobil 1 full syn 5w-30 at the moment, would have to look at just which version. With 103,000 miles on it I'm usually running it around 8k miles, have run over 10k once. But I always Baby my bike and it really see's Vtec! BR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted January 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 11, 2014 ^^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer luvtoleanit Posted January 11, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 11, 2014 I just change it once a year. I never exceed 8k on any of my bikes in any one year. I'll send my sample off to Blackstone and report in once I get it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BusyLittleShop Posted January 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted January 12, 2014 Think I'm using Mobil 1 full syn 5w-30 at the moment, would have to look at just which version. With 103,000 miles on it I'm usually running it around 8k miles, have run over 10k once. But I always Baby my bike and it really see's Vtec! BR Technically speaking a 0W30 5W30 and 10W30 are essential the same viscosity at operating temps... its just the 0W30 and the 5W30 thickens less when you turn your key off... this is real progress in our oils because now there is less wear during start up before warmup. Oil Type......Viscosity @ 104° F....Viscosity @ 212° F Straight 30.....................97.................10 10W-30..........................62.................10 5W-30............................56.................10 0W-30...........................56.................10.3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondavfr1200dct Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Interesting data! Great information to consider... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volfy Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Think I'm using Mobil 1 full syn 5w-30 at the moment, would have to look at just which version. With 103,000 miles on it I'm usually running it around 8k miles, have run over 10k once. But I always Baby my bike and it really see's Vtec! BR Technically speaking a 0W30 5W30 and 10W30 are essential the same viscosity at operating temps... its just the 0W30 and the 5W30 thickens less when you turn your key off... this is real progress in our oils because now there is less wear during start up before warmup. Oil Type......Viscosity @ 104° F....Viscosity @ 212° F Straight 30.....................97.................10 10W-30..........................62.................10 5W-30............................56.................10 0W-30...........................56.................10.3 Actually, it's the other way around. These oils start out with different base oils. The first number (0,5,10) are their viscosity index. "W" is not weight; it signifies that the oil is rated for Winter service. Then they are tweaked with polymer additives to varying degrees of thinning at higher temps. The second number (30) represents the same degree of thinning at operating temp as the equivalent base oil (without VI improvers). So all these with the 30 at the end will have similar VI at operating temps as straight 30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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