tbzep

I had a used bike that slipped like that decades ago. I pulled it off, cleaned it up and reinstalled with hairspray. Aqua Net, Final Net, etc. You want it cheap and strong. I let them sit 24 hours before riding, though. I still use hairspray when I put on aftermarket grips. Don't even bother telling the cashier it is for your bike. She won't believe you.

I think he has room for at least one more bike lift in there!

I do my own tires, so I don't know of a good shop anywhere in the state. However, if you make it to the Gap, you can go to Wheeler's in Robbinsville. https://www.wheelersperformance.com/ Most of the VFR.D folks that need tires go there. There's also a former VFR.D member that could do it. He's in Murphy, NC. The guy's name is Mike, ridewnc.com.

I have two 6th gen bikes and only one 3rd gen wheel. They aren't exactly impossible to find, but they are usually very expensive. I'd love to have another one, but I can't justify spending that much on a 2nd bike that I don't ride very often.

8th gen rims have 5 lugs and the 6th gen has 4, so they aren't compatible. A few adventurous souls have done some hub conversions, but they aren't plug and play.

Roads are pretty straight in West TN near Memphis. You can take I-40 or Hwy 70. I-40 passes 15 miles from me and 70 passes through my home town. At some point even if on I-40, jump off to Hwy 70 before or at Camden, near the TN River so you can run up 69A to Big Sandy. It has a few nice curves on it, nothing special, but way better than a straight hwy. Hang a right on Hwy 147 in Big Sandy and cross the TN River on a good old fashioned ferry boat. Turn north on Hwy 232, which is a really nice twisty road. You will come out on Hwy 79 and will need to turn right (east). You now have to decide whether you want a straight shot to the Corvette museum in Bowling Green or hit some scenery. If the idea of a small ferry boat scares you, stay on I-40 or Hwy 70 across the river until you get to Hwy 13. Head north on 13, which has some decent curves but not quite as good as 232. When you get to Erin, get off 13 and on 49 where you will pick up Hwy 79 in Dover. You want to turn right and head east on 79. (Personally, I'd backtrack to the west from Erin to Hwy 232 just to ride on it.) If you want scenery, turn north on Hwy 49 into Land Between The Lakes. There is some historical stuff, buffalo (bison), etc. 49 becomes 453 and comes out at Kentucky Dam. You'd then need to work back east toward Bowling Green. I'm not familiar with those roads, so just take your pick to get there. If you want a near straight shot off 232 to Bowling Green, stay on 79 to Russellville, then on in to Bowling Green on 68. I took my son there on my old 2004 VFR nearly 15 years ago on the way to Mammoth Cave and Diamond Cavern, which is only a hop and a skip beyond Bowling Green. If you are short on time, Diamond Cavern is smaller and is never crowded, but still cool. After that, I'm not familiar with good roads in Middle TN until you get over on the east side of Nashville. There are some good roads around Center Hill Lake, such as Hwy 96 along the ridge. There are some nice ones down around the Sparta/Fall Creek Falls area also, plus it's along the path toward Deal's Gap. I'm half way between Memphis and Nashville. I don't have much free riding time anymore, but if you have bike trouble, I can find time to haul you to a shop. Edit: BTW, I rode from near Toronto to the Chi-Chi-Mon and over to Sault St Marie, then up near your point B with Kanadian Ken and a handful of other really cool VFR.D guys back in 2006. Our straight roads are more crooked than your crooked ones!

You don't have to leave the cap open. If any air works its way up, it will move to the top of the reservoir. In fact, leaving it cracked open will allow moisture into the system and that's a bad thing.

Duchy, I don't think you can do a pair valve mod that way!

Has it been retired from service, or are the "sails" stowed until needed? I've read that a few are still in service, but many are now museums.

Get a GPS app going on your phone. I like Ulysse, but there are a bunch of them out there. Find a long straight stretch and run your bike at indicated 50 mph long enough to get a stable GPS reading. The difference in whatever reading you get less than 50, double it and you will pretty much have your % error without breaking laws. Running a true 100 mph and checking the indicated speed is a hair more accurate and a lot more fun, but more dangerous and more costly if a trooper spots you. Stock bikes over the years have been reported anywhere from around 3% to nearly 10%. I'm sure the variances have come from measurement errors, different tire heights due to brand and wear, different generations, not knowing about sprocket changes on used bikes, etc. My 2004 bike was about 7%, and my 2008 bike is a about 6%, IIRC. My 2007 Anniversary bike has aftermarket sprockets and is way off. It's the only one with a speedo healer.

Outer bleeder on left, front caliperOuter bleeder on right, front caliperCenter bleeder on right, front caliperCenter bleeder on left, front caliperRemove left front caliper and tilt about 10 degreesPCV bleeder at rear of gas tankRe-install front, left brake caliperCenter bleeder on rear brake caliperOuter bleeder on rear brake caliperFinish by performing traditional bleeding process at all points, ensuring brake lever and pedal feel solid. Since brakes are linked pay attention to whether you need to work the front lever or the foot pedal. Once done, cycle the brakes a bunch. I also park my bikes with a strap holding pressure on the lever for a few days after changing fluids. Strapping the lever took out some sponginess I never could get by bleeding alone. Oh, and if you are using a Mighty Vac, it will suck air around the bleeder threads. Some folks put teflon tape on the threads, others replace with speed bleeders. Obviously this isn't the issue if you do it the old fashioned way and pump the levers. If that doesn't take care of it, the true mechanics on VFRD will help you sort out the issue.

They may be counting the same revolutions, but the output is different due to the software involved. Ok, I get it now. The factory electronics take a single signal from the sprocket and calculate two different quantities: speed and mileage. The mileage is exact but the displayed speed is (say) 5% too high, presumably as a favor to the consumer to reduce speeding tickets (or whatever). So without modifying the electronics you can only correct one or the other, not both. Yes. These aftermarket trinkets modify the signal that goes to both the speedo and the odometer.

I didn't say that. I said you can make one accurate, but not both. The odomoter is inherently accurate on the VFR if you are running stock gearing. If you fix the speedo, your odo will become inaccurate. If you change sprockets, both speed and distance will be off. You can fix one or the other, but not both.

Manufactures get the odometers pretty much spot on all the time but vary widely on speedometers. In fact, I've owned three 6th gen bikes (2004, 2007, 2008) and all three were off by a different percentage with OEM sprockets, but all have had accurate odometers. The aftermarket sprocket made the speedometer and odometer innacurate at the same time. The SpeedoDRD and Speedo Healer both will allow you to be accurate with one or the other, but not both. In other words, with your OEM sprockets, you can keep an accurate odometer with your 10% speed error, or you can fix your speed error and end up with about 10% lower reading on mileage.

Why? They are $70 shipped from Wicked Racing via eBay and the website.