marriedman Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 After being sidetracked for a while, I believe I will be able to start the head bearing replacement on my 99. I have mentioned before that I am relatively new to motorcycles and extremely new to wrenching. So I am not the most knowledgeable about tools either. I read HS guide on how to do it, however there was some information missing. The Steering Stem Nut (part #90304-MJ4-670) size isn't listed. What size socket do I need for that? HS said he used a metal rod to hammer out the races, is this a special tool or just a spare piece of metal? Also seating the bearings he mentions using bearing hammer. Don't have one of those either, is there a substitute? On the new tapered rollers, he packs them with grease. What kind of grease do you use? Actually, after typing this out I am beginning to wonder if I should have this done. The cost of buying the tools might be the same as having a pro do it. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted August 8, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2013 You don't need a socket for the nut. It can be turned using screw driver and a hammer - Not much tension there at all. When knocking the races out, be VERY patient and make light taps all around the perimeter of the race. Otherwise it will tilt too much and you'll be removing aluminum from the frame. I did not use special bearing hammer yo install the new races. I ground down one of the old ones to decrease its external diameter and used it to drive the new ones in. Same light tapping procedure applies here as well. All in all, it isn't rocket science. AHEM... I did it... ahem.. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted August 8, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2013 It's not the easiest job, but it's not super complicated either. The big points to the job are making sure you hammer the old races out evenly, and put the new ones in evenly as well. If you get them crooked, you may damage the aluminum in the frame where the bearing races sit. Use the old races to tap the new ones in. Get one of those stretchy latex gloves, a tub of waterproof grease (fan of the bel-ray stuff), put some grease on the bearing, and use your palm to pack the grease in there. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/84-gen-4-steering-stem-head-bearings/ I don't get pictures at work, but maybe this guide has more pics on packing the bearings and other details. You don't need a special tool for the castle nuts. Flathead and hammer work just fine. I made one more for when one is stuck on a project bike. It's just nicer to use, but does the same job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 For the bearing driver, you can use the old races. Cut a slot all the way through both the old races, so they're now 359 degree circles. Deburr the slot so it doesn't mar the I.D. of the steering head. Tap the new race in using the old race, flipped over as shown below. Cutting the slot ensures that the old race does not get trapped in the steering head, it allows it to be removed easily. As for the castle nut, you can make your own socket by grinding away the parts you don't want by trial and error. This is mine: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted August 8, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2013 I was a helper to Huntingguns for this procedure on my bike. From your description of your experience and expertise, I think you are like me. I found that having someone such as Fred to basically do the job, while I assisted and watched was the correct way for me. He had the proper tools (bearing press, castle nut tool, etc) and the experience of having done these before. I am a firm believer in the "tell, show, do" method of learning. If I am "doing" before being "shown" I am liable to make mistakes and bork the job. Find a competent VFR member to help you do this job and it will be a good experience for you. My 2 cents. Also, I got the tapered roller bearing replacements from All Balls... good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marriedman Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 All good stuff guys, thanks. As for the castle nut, you can make your own socket by grinding away the parts you don't want by trial and error. This is mine: I guess I am a little dense, did you grind away part of the socket? I guess I didn't give the stem nut a proper look. I thought it was just a regular nut. Is it shaped differently? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CornerCarver Posted August 8, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2013 You can do it waterboy! But like 2th Dr mentioned, prolly best the first time to find a local maintenance buddy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted August 8, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2013 Don't forget that there is a cut-away in the bearing housing area to make it easier to get a punch on the back side of the bearings to drive them out. Take it slow and careful and you should be okay. The only thing you can really cause a serious problem with is driving the bearing in cocked. That's the only real "Aw Sh*t" thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted August 8, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2013 Don't forget that there is a cut-away in the bearing housing area to make it easier to get a punch on the back side of the bearings to drive them out. Take it slow and careful and you should be okay. The only thing you can really cause a serious problem with is driving the bearing in cocked. That's the only real "Aw Sh*t" thing. This is why the bearing press that Huntingguns has is such a great tool... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmythecop Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 when you are hammering in the new races, you will prolly wonder if you are done or not. The tone of the hammer blow will change greatly when it is seated. I used a 34mm socket to drive mine in, but there are many methods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer IntAceptor Posted August 8, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2013 Taper roller bearings only want about 3-6 pounds of torque and not the 30 or so that ball bearings call for. You don't need a special cut away socket unless you are using a torque wrench to seat the nut. I simply take a large pair of channel lock pliers and unload the wheel so it is not hanging and possibly disrupting the tightening of the bearing and turn the nut about 1/8 of a turn past the point it reaches hand tight. It gets to hand tight quite abruptly so the reference point where the real tightening starts is very defined. Be sure to use an EP (extreme pressure) grease on the bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 All good stuff guys, thanks. As for the castle nut, you can make your own socket by grinding away the parts you don't want by trial and error. This is mine: I guess I am a little dense, did you grind away part of the socket? I guess I didn't give the stem nut a proper look. I thought it was just a regular nut. Is it shaped differently? Yes I ground away part of the socket leaving 4 "legs" to engage the nut. The nut is not standard at all. You'll see when you get it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted August 8, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2013 You should be able to see it in HS guide and the other one I linked to. The two castle nuts. Go take a peek through them again and you'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marriedman Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 OK, for grease, will this work?http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Coastal-Moly-grease/_/N-25ap?itemIdentifier=561761_0_0_Ah, I see what you are talking about with the castle nut. This picture, right?I was talking about this nut: #19As for the steel rod HS mentions to knock out the races, is that just a long punch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted August 8, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2013 That grease looks like it will do the trick. That's the nut. That will work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted August 8, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2013 As for the punch to use, I've used a length of steel pipe. Just rifle through your tools and stuff and see what would work. No need to spend money on tools you'd be using once or twice in a lifetime IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V-FORE Posted August 8, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 8, 2013 Another idea for a bearing driver...PVC conduit adaptors....cheap and available at any Blowes, Home Desperate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted August 9, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 9, 2013 All good stuff guys, thanks. As for the castle nut, you can make your own socket by grinding away the parts you don't want by trial and error. This is mine: I guess I am a little dense, did you grind away part of the socket? I guess I didn't give the stem nut a proper look. I thought it was just a regular nut. Is it shaped differently? Yes I ground away part of the socket leaving 4 "legs" to engage the nut. The nut is not standard at all. You'll see when you get it off. Rob - What size socket did you use for this or gotta specific recomendation? Looks like to get to work with the Dremel - I am helping mm on this one, --- I didnt want to reinvent the wheel on removing the castle nuts. The bearings in/out are simple enuff, just a finesse job. OK, for grease, will this work? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Coastal-Moly-grease/_/N-25ap?itemIdentifier=561761_0_0_ Ah, I see what you are talking about with the castle nut. This picture, right? I was talking about this nut: #19 As for the steel rod HS mentions to knock out the races, is that just a long punch? Nut #19 is 30mm Grease is no problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted August 9, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 9, 2013 Driving the lower bearing on is the toughest part of this job. Find the right sized pipe to fit over the steering stem and just contact the lower bearing inner race and not the bearing carrier. I use an extra 4' long guide rail from a '75 Rockwell table saw, you'll probably find something different. If you go with the roller bearings you don't need the castle nut, the torque values are very small. If you use OEM bearings the special nut & torque wrench could be helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted August 9, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 9, 2013 Lots of good tips already. Key is to take your time, and make sure things are coming out/going in straight. As for the grease that's probably the best you will do at the average parts house. You want a moly grease in this application due to the high pressure, and the fact that the bearings don't spin 360°. Moly is to be avoided in high speed full rotation applications like wheel bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marriedman Posted August 9, 2013 Author Share Posted August 9, 2013 If you go with the roller bearings you don't need the castle nut, the torque values are very small. If you use OEM bearings the special nut & torque wrench could be helpful. I should have mentioned this in my first post, I already have the allballs tapered bearings. I am so glad you mentioned this! Seems odd to me though. I bet it will make sense when I see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted August 9, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 9, 2013 If you go with the roller bearings you don't need the castle nut, the torque values are very small. If you use OEM bearings the special nut & torque wrench could be helpful. I should have mentioned this in my first post, I already have the allballs tapered bearings. I am so glad you mentioned this! Seems odd to me though. I bet it will make sense when I see it. I've always had to go back and re-tighten the bearings after a couple hundred miles or so, just to snug them up. With tapered bearings it's almost a feel thing with getting them tight but not too tight. Veefer covered this in one of his install threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer auggius Posted August 9, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 9, 2013 Couple of tips from my install.... If you have a hard time removing the lower bearing, as I did, just take your Dremel, cut a slot in the race and pry it off. It took me 2 hours to do mine using a screwdriver. Then take your new bearing and take it to your local mechanic and have them press it on. I hammered on it for a long time and could not get it on the stem more than halfway. I used a pair of channel lock pliers to tighten the upper nut. It might have been in the how-to guide by HS, though the tip was by someone else. He described it as just white knuckle tight. I realize that's not very scientific, but remember, roller bearings call for a low torque value. Chances are that your torque wrench is not very accurate at this low setting. Besides which, you want to double check how much force is required to turn the handlebars when the front wheel is off the ground anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted August 9, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 9, 2013 If you go with the roller bearings you don't need the castle nut, the torque values are very small. If you use OEM bearings the special nut & torque wrench could be helpful. I should have mentioned this in my first post, I already have the allballs tapered bearings. I am so glad you mentioned this! Seems odd to me though. I bet it will make sense when I see it. I've always had to go back and re-tighten the bearings after a couple hundred miles or so, just to snug them up. With tapered bearings it's almost a feel thing with getting them tight but not too tight. Veefer covered this in one of his install threads. Trying to understand - Which one did you delete? Theres the bottom castle nut against the dust shield, then the lock washer, then the top lock nut or castle nut. Got Veefers thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted August 9, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 9, 2013 If you go with the roller bearings you don't need the castle nut, the torque values are very small. If you use OEM bearings the special nut & torque wrench could be helpful. I should have mentioned this in my first post, I already have the allballs tapered bearings. I am so glad you mentioned this! Seems odd to me though. I bet it will make sense when I see it. I've always had to go back and re-tighten the bearings after a couple hundred miles or so, just to snug them up. With tapered bearings it's almost a feel thing with getting them tight but not too tight. Veefer covered this in one of his install threads. Trying to understand - Which one did you delete? Theres the bottom castle nut against the dust shield, then the lock washer, then the top lock nut or castle nut. Got Veefers thread? Sorry, didn't mean you can delete one of the nuts, just that you don't need the castle socket if you're installing tapered bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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