IntAceptor

This tank is in good condition. There are minor scratches and a small crease that I can't get to show in a picture. It is small, hard to see and would be completely hidden by a tank bag. The left side below the top was repainted and although a good color match, it is a little rough. I am pretty sure a good buffing would improve the overall smoothness quite well. There is no rust in the tank. The gas cap and fuel pump are not included. This tank also fits 1998 and maybe a few other years also. $75 plus shipping. I will research the most economical shipping method when the buyer's address is known. I think it should come in around + or - $40 or so. Check or money order. No Pay Pal. I have been a long standing member, but inactive as of late. Contact Bob (IntAceptor) at interceptor@charter.net

OFF

I think I gotcha beat. My wife and I put on over 60,000 miles riding together all over the east coast and Canada. In the past few years, she has had hip and knee operations which forced her to curtail her riding career and sell the Honda 450 Rebel that fit her so well. I have had deer encounters, one of which left me with a separated shoulder too. Since then there have been at least 4 near misses on top of that. Last Friday I made the choice to call it quits. At age 70, we just don't heal as well as we used to. A guy came to our garage sale, saw the bike and said he wanted to buy it. He got back to me and we made a deal. My sweet 99 VFR is now gone to other hands. So, we are now brothers in separation as far as shoulders go, but my separation from the VFR and riding again hurts a lot worse. Glad you are ok and could walk away. Get the bike fixed and ride on bro.

This

Me too on my 99

Got home at noon with an empty run through the gap (on a Sunday no less). Three miles from the house the heavens opened up and washed my bike for me. Great time with all.

Take a pin and push it through the individual wires on the plugs you took apart to contact the copper within. Measure from the pin to the connector in the plug to make sure you didn't pull a wire free. Then put a dab of super glue in the small hole in the wire that the pin made. Make sure the contact cleaner you used didn't have lubricant in it that may be causing a problem. Look inside each plug connection and be sure if it is a male / female arrangement, the contacts are tight and touching and not spread apart.

It would really be cool if you could make it to the Texas Mac thing we have in May.

Although it is to have trucks stopped from railing the Dragon. Remember, it was done on the strength of today's statistics. With that in mind, what may possible happen tomorrow???? If ya get the drift? Just sayin'

Semi-synthetic is mostly dino oil anyhow. About + / - 15% synthetic if I remember correctly.

Wire jumper the plugs associated with the RR and stator around the plugs (but keep them in place) and put a fan on the RR that comes on when the bike is running. Add a voltmeter. I did that and my original RR / stator combo is still going strong at 60K.

I simply jack the truck up by placing the jack on the tire with a couple of 2X4 to protect the rotor. The bead breaks easily. If you shake the balancer and not spin the wheel, the heavy spot will drop like a rock and you don't have to waste time with the spin.

Been using Mobil 1 EP 15W-50 for 60K miles on the VFR, 100K on a Yamaha Virago and 85K on an ST1100 with no problems and perfect leak down tests on all the bikes. No clutch problems what so ever and I haven't heard of softened plates from synthetic before either. Not to say it couldn't happen, just haven't seen or heard of it. Synthetic oil is one of the usual recommendation for curing tough clutch shifting.