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Has anyone done a SH847 voltage regulator on a 3rd gen.


jefferson
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I want to put an SH847 from roadster cycle on my bike and am wondering if anyone has experience with mounting one on a 3rd gen. I mad a template and it looks like I could get it to fit in the oe location. Not sure about the height though and not sure about a good way to check without mounting one first to see if the bodywork clears. Any info would be appreciated.

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  • jefferson changed the title to Has anyone done a SH847 voltage regulator on a 3rd gen.
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I can’t help you with a 3rd Gen, specifically. However, on my SV, I just stuck it under the seat, as I couldn’t find another place where it wasn’t noticeable. On my 5th Gen, it’s mounted to the underside of the rear fender, at the very back. With how a Series R/R works, it doesn’t really need airflow. I’d just stick it wherever. 

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I just put one on the 2000 and didn't want to make plates or holes. I cable tied it in place then used safety wire to secure it. Checked it recently and it is rock solid. It seems to run about 100F, so it isn't going to melt anything. 

 

20211218_175726.thumb.jpg.f3b425c0571fc1788240bb648efc517d.jpg

 

20211219_174920.thumb.jpg.2089eca8f658c267c83cb865dbc4a234.jpg

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Awesome photos, thanks!

 

Yeah, series-circuit doesn't have to pass 100% of stator output full-time. So runs much, much cooler.

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It looks like roadster cycle has the dimensions listed, you could make a mock up of cardboard, or put some clay on the stock one built up to the new size, and then fit the panel on to see if there is interference. Might also try a 90 degree orientation as well. 

 

https://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen FH020AA mounting dimensions.htm

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I did a mockup out of paper to get a general idea, but it does appear I need something more substantial to get a better idea.

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I make these mount plates for 6th gens, but might be a maybe for a mount on the 3rd gen.

If you think it could be useful, give me a shout on PM.

i-sMBxvZM-M.jpg

 

- I have a 5th gen design if asked... 

 

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Thanks for that. I removed the oem regulator to give me a better look at things and It looks more likely to work than I was thinking. If I remove the original stud for the R/R it will make it easier. I just don't like removing the oem mount, but I really don't see ever needing it. I might also look at removing the mount for the rear master cyl reservoir as It isn't being used and hey, lighter. Gotta make up for that heavier R/R somehow,

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That thing is huge. 

 

946778967_2017-09-2714_36_59x.thumb.jpg.ab7ab3c85c09723f43ca400cdbd47725.jpg

 

I was experimenting with locating it under the rear fender on my slightly modified 3rd gen, but I don't know if it will go there in the end:

 

817174916_2016-11-2420_28_50x.thumb.jpg.7de808aaf9d2fbebcced9a8b6bae8ad3.jpg

 

102827514_2016-11-2420_29_06x.thumb.jpg.6b6c693593545a17fb982bb10106cd4d.jpg

 

It should be fine there, given the sealed design and sealed connectors.  I had the old reg/rec mounted under the lower triple clamp for years, with no probs...

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

 

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On 3/22/2022 at 3:09 PM, mello dude said:

I make these mount plates for 6th gens, but might be a maybe for a mount on the 3rd gen.

If you think it could be useful, give me a shout on PM.

i-sMBxvZM-M.jpg

 

- I have a 5th gen design if asked... 

 

 

I have an 847 mounted with this on my G6 - works great!

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2 hours ago, Cogswell said:

 

I have an 847 mounted with this on my G6 - works great!

Thanks! -- I appreciate the shout out on this.... I have plenty of inventory on both plates for the FH020 or 847... need to sell to break even.... 

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The 7th Gen is exposed from the factory, under the seat, and above the shock....

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Weatherpack connectors and SH847 are definitely resistant to moisture. Mine has been under here for 4yrs. 

A1611DE3-358E-4BAD-AE08-01E5BA331CD9.jpeg

161A9B9E-156A-4D58-8180-98193E8075BF.jpeg

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33 minutes ago, ducnut said:

Weatherpack connectors and SH847 are definitely resistant to moisture. Mine has been under here for 4yrs. 

A1611DE3-358E-4BAD-AE08-01E5BA331CD9.jpeg

161A9B9E-156A-4D58-8180-98193E8075BF.jpeg

 

How do you keep it so clean?   I have a hugger and that area on my bike still gets cruddy with road tar,  dirt, etc. 

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2 hours ago, Cogswell said:

 

How do you keep it so clean?   I have a hugger and that area on my bike still gets cruddy with road tar,  dirt, etc. 

 

This pic was upon initial assembly of the bike. However, I’m pretty diligent with keeping up on it, as it’s my pride and joy. My Tiger 800, not so much. 

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I don't think I would have thought about putting it under there, but due to its size it may be the only place to put it. No matter how I finagle things it just doesn't look like it will go in the stock location.

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How about sliding forwards & backwards? Don't have to be stock location.

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Idea....... why go big butt SH847?  How about SH775 for same format size as FH020AA...   do you really need the capabilities of an 847?  Jack at Roadster Cycle could advise you further.....

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It doesn't look like anywhere near the stock location is going to work. The subframe is wider at the front, but the bodywork is closer in and vice versa the subframe is too narrow at the rear as is the bodywork.

 

Jack recommended the 847 due to the watts the stator puts out and the rpm the engine can turn. I thought I saw somewhere that he stopped handling the 775 also.

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My guess is the output is around 350 watts...... by comparison, an FJR1300 puts out 590 watts and they use an FH020AA from the factory, and they don't fail....... so my opinion is you don't need an 847.

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I was wanting the SH series due to the cooler running stator and oil temps. I do see that Jack has the 775 available, but I can find no template to use as far as the size of the thing goes. I'm wondering if the 775 and 847 are the same size and got an email off to him to clarify things

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The 775 is quite a bit smaller than the 847, but not as small as the OEM VFR750F reg/rec:

 

20220328_233612x.thumb.jpg.a102ed9e2a5e5f653532e2245511a856.jpg

 

20220328_233424x.thumb.jpg.99443fc66c07cb6ea97838a6dd24363a.jpg

 

20220328_233507x.thumb.jpg.34daffb14815156ffcc6044c771ec197.jpg

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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Here is a screenshot from Roadster Cycles with those two plus the FH020 all together.  Hard to tell if the 020 is any smaller than the 775, but it looks close. 

 

image.png.b840610b481d6f0a1ab6fbfa6cd87c67.png

 

Also, in the video below, at the 11:20 mark, he talks about the 775 and why he would / would not use it.  YMMV on that. 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXbZZZWLtzY

 

My personal experience with the 847 on my G6 has not been as good as I expected.  With the OEM 6th gen R/R I would get around low 13 volts (13.0, 13.2 or so) at idle with the rad fan running.   Now with the 847, it's never in the 13's - pretty much only battery voltage or less unless I get the bike moving and really bring the rpm's up.  If it really does place less stress on the stator and I get longer life out of it or it's more reliable, that's a win.  That, however, may transcend my own expected life span, so I may never find out if that's the case.  Otherwise, it does seem to regulate the voltage just fine.  Jack claims it's my stator, but I find that difficult to believe as the only variables changed were the wiring and the R/R, so how could it be the stator? 

 

The other thing I would point out from my experience with it is that he ships the 847 with an auto-resetting circuit breaker.  My two observations about that are 1.  Why bother?  If the thing auto resets and the short that caused it is still there, it's just going to keep resetting and possibly destroy the circuit or cause a fire.   I'd prefer it go out and then allow me to find and fix it.  Manual reset breakers are available, and I tried one.  On my G6 the only place it would go was tucked in the frame right behind the battery above the #2 and #4 headers.  The heat from those would cause the breaker to trip with no circuit faults.  It had not occurred to me that  they don't care the source of the heat that trips it - the circuit or some outside source.  So, 2.  I went to a midi style fuse (easy to find on line).  They do require a wrench to get the retaining nuts loose, but it is a heavy duty fuse with lots of contact area - so far so good on that.  I was not able to find much, if any positive things people say about auto-resetting breakers, and I don't know Jack's rationale for using them.  Maybe someone here knows a lot more about that than I do. 

 

Anyway, just my $.02. 

 

 

 

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Agree with you Cogs. I don't follow the strange logic about an auto resetting C/B.

In my 36 years in the aircraft industry I'd never seen or heard of such a thing and even domestic household switchboads are non auto reset breakers, for damm good reasons. I'd also question the reliability of these possibly Chinese made auto reset breakers.

Best thing for bike use is a well connected 30amp inline fuse

Something like this.

IMG_1340.PNG

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I have been trying to find information on the 775. Jack say they are good to 25 amps, but I have seen others state they are good for 35 amps. At 371 watts and say 14 volts that works out to 26.5 amps. Higher than Jack says but lower than what I find on the Suzuki V-strom site, at least I think that is where I got that info and have seen it several times. The other issue is Jack says they are a low rpm regulator and 11,000 rpm is not low rpm, although I rarely see that rpm. Only draw I have is the stock lights and horn and I have put led taillight bulbs in. The size is going to be much easier to install as the bolt holes line up and the unit is much smaller as noted in JZH's thread above.

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