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Posted

Nice writeup, sure to be usefull as the procedure is rather involved and a pain in the rear compared to bleeding "regular" brakes. I would like to point out, however, that the FSM usually reccomends bolt replacement for a good reason. In this case it's probably not because there is anything wrong with the bolts, just that the new ones probably have some sort of threadlocker allready coating the threads. I personally like to put a dab of medium strength threadlocker on nearly all the fasteners on the bike, cause they vibrate and things come loose without warning. Might wanna add that to the re-assembly instructions, might not, just my opinion.

  • Member Contributer
Posted

Nice writeup, sure to be usefull as the procedure is rather involved and a pain in the rear compared to bleeding "regular" brakes. I would like to point out, however, that the FSM usually reccomends bolt replacement for a good reason. In this case it's probably not because there is anything wrong with the bolts, just that the new ones probably have some sort of threadlocker allready coating the threads. I personally like to put a dab of medium strength threadlocker on nearly all the fasteners on the bike, cause they vibrate and things come loose without warning. Might wanna add that to the re-assembly instructions, might not, just my opinion.

You're right! I actually did use medium strength lock tite when i assembled everything so i will update the original post when i get to my computer!

  • Member Contributer
Posted

Sweet! Now as soon as I finish paying Uncle Sam I can put money on getting my SS brake lines. Thanks for the write up.

  • 4 months later...
Guest 6thGenBasketCase
Posted

Thank you, jay-d, I just followed your procedure exactly, and it worked out perfectly. I even used the blue brake fluid. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Guest Recalcitrance
Posted

Thanks for the post. :fing02: Definitely a bookmark (if not Copy-Past for my garage booklet).

Just had my brakes and clutch bled two months ago for the first time on my '06.

I'll be sure to save this DYI for next time. :+1:

  • 2 months later...
  • Member Contributer
Posted

Jay, the photo in "G. Left Front Caliper, Inner/Centre Bleed Screw" shows actuating the SMC, but I think this line is done with the rear brake pedal - please confirm.

Also, for the record, I never remove the front left caliper for fluid replacement - I just manually actuate the SMC with the caliper in place. Works fine and you don't risk wearing out the mounting bolts or squeezing the pads together making reassembly difficult.

I'd also like to point out that with speedbleeders, when doing the SMC line, if you don't close the speedbleeder on PCV, the rear pedal will not force the SMC back out very effectively - most of the pressure seems to bypass the SMC and escape out the PCV speedbleeder. I figured this out too late after doing two bikes' fluid replacement. For that line you really are better off closing the valve between SMC squeezes. The problem is that the speedbleeders have sealant on the threads and don't like to turn easily and will get the sealant worn off quickly if you do close and open it so many times. I'm going to look into getting a fancy (expensive) Stahlbus bleeder for at least this one troublesome position - they're designed for maintenance free opening and closing.

  • Member Contributer
Posted (edited)

I bled my old 2004 plenty of times using a MityVac but now have an ABS model and am not sure how much the process differs. Tips on the same procedure, but using the standard bleed valves and a MityVac? Thanks for the GREAT write-up!

Edited by PorradaVFR
Posted

I don't think the procedure varies because of the ABS, there are no bleed valves @ the ABS module that I remember while doing mine. The book does not state any different procedure for ABS vs non ABS systems. Oh, and I bleed mine using the standard bleeder screws and a mityvac. My tips are:

follow the book to the letter

have lots of patience

have more brake fluid on hand than you think you need (two standard sized bottles should do the trick)

use some loctite on the fasteners when you torque them back down, Honda says replace, but it's really only because of the threadlocker that needs replaced

Happy wrenchin!

  • Member Contributer
Posted

Jay, the photo in "G. Left Front Caliper, Inner/Centre Bleed Screw" shows actuating the SMC, but I think this line is done with the rear brake pedal - please confirm.

Hey, the picture looks like it's actuating the SMC but it's really not. This is the same line that fills the SMC so you can bleed the LPCV and the rear caliper centre bleed screw via the SMC.

Hope that clears that up :happy:

  • Member Contributer
Posted

My God, how is your bike so absolutely, postively, spotlessly clean???

  • Like 1
  • Member Contributer
Posted

My God, how is your bike so absolutely, postively, spotlessly clean???

Are we looking at the same bike?! haha.. my bike isn't clean!!

I'm sure it's cleaner than most, I bought it with 5,500km on it so it was always stored, hardly ridden!

It's got almost 20,000km on it now but it needs a good taking apart and clean next spring for sure! :tour:

  • Member Contributer
Posted

Well, maybe, but my neat freak side is jealous of the bike in the photos. Thanks for the great how to...

Can you do one for removing the front end? LOL...I'm kidding but not really. Getting ready to take apart my front end and send in forks to be upgraded. My first time doing it...ever, on any bike. I'm sure to bork it up somehow!

  • 6 months later...
Guest apossibly89
Posted

Can I have somebody please give me a call? Followed the instructions to a T and still no luck... I'm Kawasaki and BMW certified as a motorcycle technician, and have had two other much more experienced motorcycle techs stumped as well. Soft lever and no pressure to rear brakes after several bleeds :( pleaseee! It's getting very expensive!

2002 VFR800A, has ABS

Thanks! Josh

518-291-0465

  • Member Contributer
Posted

As Metallican525 did in post #9, I just used a vacuum bleeder to change the fluid in my ABS rather than doing any pumping of the levers as the OP indicated - worked perfectly. If traditional methods of pumping the pedal or vacuum bleeding aren't working, what I would probably try next is to reverse bleed it by forcing fluid backwards through the system. Air rises in a fluid, so pushing fluid from the caliper back to the master cylinder displaces the air and forces it out. I don't have one of these, but have considered purchasing it.

http://www.brakebleeder.com/bleeding-brakes/how-it-works/

Guest apossibly89
Posted

Trust me, I've tried the reverse bleed with a syringe I had bought and some of the hose from my mity-vac. Good advice though, thank you!

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Trust me, I've tried the reverse bleed with a syringe I had bought and some of the hose from my mity-vac. Good advice though, thank you!

Is your VFR800 equipped with ABS? webbikeworld caution the possible damage to ABS modulators by using reverse bleeding method.Not sure if VFR800 ABS works the same way as BMW.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/eze-bleeder-review/

  • 1 month later...
  • Member Contributer
Posted

Huge thanks jay-d; yesterday I completed a full bleed of the whole system on my '08 ABS. Used conventional method and it worked a treat. Brakes feel nice & tight but will have to wait until the winds drop below 80mph before trying her out.

Excellent "How To". :beer:

  • Like 1
  • Member Contributer
Posted

Huge thanks jay-d; yesterday I completed a full bleed of the whole system on my '08 ABS. Used conventional method and it worked a treat. Brakes feel nice & tight but will have to wait until the winds drop below 80mph before trying her out.

Excellent "How To". :beer:

How are you weathering the storms over there?

  • Member Contributer
Posted

Jay-D, thank you! I have been trying to work up the courage to do this on my own, your guide is a fantastic resource. Thanks. :fing02:

  • Member Contributer
Posted

Huge thanks jay-d; yesterday I completed a full bleed of the whole system on my '08 ABS. Used conventional method and it worked a treat. Brakes feel nice & tight but will have to wait until the winds drop below 80mph before trying her out.

Excellent "How To". :beer:

How are you weathering the storms over there?

All done & dusted now thanks.

4 deaths however, mainly from fallen trees.

  • Member Contributer
Posted

I forget sometimes that other countries have inclement weather .......

  • 3 months later...
Guest txsandman
Posted

Well I have finally been riding the 1999 .... with front brakes only ... I went to bleed the back brake and holly cow I see no bleeder screw and a line running up unde the seat.

Now here I am - glad you all came to the rescue again -

thank you - I will let you know how easy / hard it is.

  • Member Contributer
Posted

Well I have finally been riding the 1999 .... with front brakes only ... I went to bleed the back brake and holly cow I see no bleeder screw and a line running up unde the seat.

Now here I am - glad you all came to the rescue again -

thank you - I will let you know how easy / hard it is.

Note that the 5 Gen system is slightly different than the 6 Gen (for which this how-to was written), but are similar enough that you can get the gist of it here. That being said, download the Honda Workshop manual from the download section here so that you have the 5 Gen procedure. There is one more front bleed point on the 5 Gen system not present on the 6 Gen.
Guest txsandman
Posted

Note that the 5 Gen system is slightly different than the 6 Gen (for which this how-to was written), but are similar enough that you can get the gist of it here. That being said, download the Honda Workshop manual from the download section here so that you have the 5 Gen procedure. There is one more front bleed point on the 5 Gen system not present on the 6 Gen.

nice --- thx for mentioning that!

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