jay-d

I'm selling my beloved '06 VFR800 ABS, but so far no one has even sent an inquiry! I'm wondering what a fair selling price is for my bike? I'm in Toronto, Canada, the bike has never been dropped, has a power commander and leo & vince exhaust with 28,000km (17,500m). I have ALL oem parts still and Honda hard luggage. I put it up for $7000 CAD, but no bites, so I lowered it to $6500 and still nothing. Similar bikes that are for sale are priced in and around that range but not sure if it's emotional price or a fair selling price. I want the bike to sell fast as it's just sitting in the garage, so maybe I need to lower it.. I did purchase it for $8000 in 2012.

hey Knight, you are right, after reading my post it does sound like the bike has never had any maintenance! That's not true at all though, I bought the bike in 2012 with 5,500km and have done regular maintenance, even posted a brake fluid replacement DIY. What I meant to say was the last maintenance I did was the coolant flush, and wondering if the bike requires a tune up soon. I did remove the tank and all that good stuff to tighten up the coolant hoses last summer, and the throttle was within spec. Once the weather gets warm, I will check those items, I just wasn't sure where to start to be honest.

So, before I put my bike away last Fall, I noticed something really weird. The bike was warmed up, I got up to speed, decelerated the throttle but my RPMS went up, like a surge. I immediately pulled the clutch in and the rpms shot up to like 4,000 and then went back down to idle. It didn't happen again, but curious as to what would cause this surge? There's about 25,000km on the bike, it's a 2006, never had a tune up. The only maintenance I did was coolant flush. I'm selling the bike .. but will buy a 8th generation in the near future! Want to make sure it's in good working condition before I sell it.

Ah! I get it now.. hah! Thanks for the write up Mohawk, however being in Canada, parts are such a bitch to find. My hoses aren't dried or rotted in anyway, they're super soft, there's no corrosion on any joints so I'm thinking they just needed to be tightened up and I have a feeling it might be the thermostat gasket as there's a little dirt everywhere except this one part where it's super shiny. I can get the thermostat gasket so I'm going to go ahead and do that and if it fixes it, great, if not, I don't mind ripping it all apart again as it was pretty straight forward for me.

What do you mean by this? I didn't see any o-rings.. ??

Wtf Canada! All hoses are back ordered until end of July! Such bullshit! Does anyone know a place online I can purchase said parts? I can't wait until the end of July :(

Haha.. it's really not! There's just a lot of stuff to disconnect, and the only speciality tool you need is a super long #2 philips screw driver. The smallest you can use is 8" which is what I had on hand, but 10" would be ideal.

RedRicer, I will be creating a tutorial with pictures once I get all my new parts on how to take the throttle bodies off, change coolant, as well as thermostat.

Methinks you may have spoken too soon. Haha.. not at all. Took off the tank and throttle body in about 45 min, not difficult at all.. just a lot of shit to disconnect. Now, there's so many hoses in there, finding the leaky one is going to be the challenge!

No. This is incorrect, the SMC does not have a reservoir, so therefore it cannot push new fluid through. It also does not operate from the force of the rear brake pedal, it works with the movement of the front tire and friction of the brakes which causes the SMC to operate. You must do it the way I've listed to bleed it correctly. I've stated this on the front page. The caliper does not have to be high up, the bleed screw has to be facing up. That's all that's required, just like in the main tutorial picture.

Ah.. ok awesome, seems like a simple fix then, thank you!

I've had this bike for 3 years, and got it with 5,500km on it. It's now got 25,000km and when I went to get it Spring ready, I noticed a really small puddle of coolant underneath after I did my oil change and started it. Removed the right fairing (brake side) and I notice it coming out, very very little.. like a few drops, out of this hole that's in the engine block (exact centre of image.) Can someone explain to me what's going on?

I haven't been here for a while, but I'm glad everyone is making good use of this guide! For those that are not pumping the SMC manually, that's completely ok, but just remember that the fluid between the SMC and the rear proportional control valve still has old fluid in it! If you're ok with that, then by all means skip that step :D

Hey guys, I just want to chime in here and say that the part numbers for the speed bleeders were ordered from Wire My Bike. I did indeed replace all the speed bleeders with the part numbers listed with no issues!

I'm excited to see what aftermarket options there are for the exhaust!

I've Googled for sure.. unfortunately, Continental's website does not display any information when I select the GT version of the tire. It's a blank page :( Other reviews aren't really reviews, but overviews and state that it's a heavier carcass but does not mention anything regarding handling or grip which is what I'm asking.

I've outfitted Conti RoadAttack 2's on my bike in 2011 and looks like I need a new rear tire. Front is still going good! However, Conti released the GT version and a C version, but I can't seem to find any information on the C version. I see it as an available option from the website that I'm going to purchase it from, but would like to know what the difference is. I got about 14,000km from the RoadAttack 2 which for me isn't bad at all. I wouldn't mind a little bit more mileage out of it but if the GT or C version sacrifice handling for longevity then I'll stick with the originals. Can anyone shed some light on the differences?

Are we looking at the same bike?! haha.. my bike isn't clean!! I'm sure it's cleaner than most, I bought it with 5,500km on it so it was always stored, hardly ridden! It's got almost 20,000km on it now but it needs a good taking apart and clean next spring for sure!

Hey, the picture looks like it's actuating the SMC but it's really not. This is the same line that fills the SMC so you can bleed the LPCV and the rear caliper centre bleed screw via the SMC. Hope that clears that up

Ah sweet! I did all this today, and had all 6 filaments lit up.. lots of light! I'm going to run it for a bit and see what happens. I don't usually use my high beams for an extended period of time, but I'll check it out at night when I take my bike out. I get that, but the H4 low beam stays on with the H7 high beam. So really, your theory doesn't apply to the VFR. All I did was splice the H7 power wire to the empty prong on the H4 bulb so now when I turn the high beam on, all 6 filaments light up. Edit: I understand what you mean now, you mean for the low beam H4 bulb, not having both filaments running at the same time.

Thought about it.. but really, you'd only be running with 4, since the high beam ones will be off until you need them. I Know 4 wouldn't be a problem ! Guess I'll find out soon lol

Definitely will only keep low beams with low and high beams with high! How are you running six filaments.. ? Edit: Nevermind, there's a total of 8 filaments, so with the high beams, you're running all four filaments in the high beam H4 bulb and two in the low beam H4 bulb.

I wish I took pictures of where I mounted mine. VERY easy if you separate them. All I required additionally was a small L bracket. I'll be taking the front end apart, I might take off the fairings and take some pictures. Essentially, I mounted the compressor where Boneman mounted his horn, perfectly upright. I mounted the horn in the stock location using the stock bracket, I just had to use some heavy duty wire to mount the original bracket to the horn.

I purchased Tightwad's HID kit and honestly wasn't my cup of tea. The light output was great but the amount of light scatter wasn't to my liking. I'm going to keep it and eventually retrofit projectors and do it properly. However, upon disassembly, I noticed that our H4 bulbs are not being used to their full potential. All H4 bulbs contain dual filaments, one for low beam, one for high beam. That's why there's three prongs on the bulb. The high beam connector, only has two wires connected with the low beam filament wire non existent like so. and the opposite is true for the low beam connector. So I've gone out and bought 4 of these: Isn't is possible, to splice the high beam's, low beam prong (that's not in use) to the low beam wire on the actual low beam connector? And vice versa for the high beam wire that's not in use on the low beam bulb? Theoretically, giving us the usage of all four low beam filaments and all four high beam filaments. Any thoughts?

You're right! I actually did use medium strength lock tite when i assembled everything so i will update the original post when i get to my computer!