Metallican525

If you just cracked the mystical VFR belt driven code I'm about to get reeeeeeeeeeeeaaaalyyy excited!!!!!!!!!!! Keep us in the loop there Nunux59, and welcome!!

This counts for a modification right.................yeah sure it does. Mods feel free to move if innappropriate for this section. As a side note, if you're a wiseass like me , and ride with streamers on your bike after your buddies do this, mylar does infact come off onto other things, like paint, oops!

All three of those filters fit the same engine???

Good point CandyRed, didn't think about the times I get on the highway right after getting outta heavy traffic. Of course, if she's still too hot @ 70, maybe more speed is required..............

I did a similar if not the same mod to mine so I can turn it on early sitting in traffic. The hotter she gets the hotter everything else gets (frame etc) and makes it take waaaaaaaay longer to cool back down. I don't really see the point in being able to turn it off, that sounds like a recipie for over cooking engines when you inevitable forget you turned it off or bumped the switch without knowing. An indicator of some sort would be nice to know when you have the switch turned on but I didn't see the need and just used a simple switch I had laying around that would handle 30A (maybe 20A, don't remember now, I figured if it got hot I needed a better switch, no issues so far). To shorten up this statement a bit, I think a Tightwad fan override kit would be a good addition to your current arsenal of VFR farkles and sell well as much as VFR's run hotter than the sun!

I don't think the procedure varies because of the ABS, there are no bleed valves @ the ABS module that I remember while doing mine. The book does not state any different procedure for ABS vs non ABS systems. Oh, and I bleed mine using the standard bleeder screws and a mityvac. My tips are: follow the book to the letter have lots of patience have more brake fluid on hand than you think you need (two standard sized bottles should do the trick) use some loctite on the fasteners when you torque them back down, Honda says replace, but it's really only because of the threadlocker that needs replaced Happy wrenchin!

Wow, I like my silver ones but those red jobbers you got look FANTASTIC!! I also scored my Pazzos used so I got a deal on em. Also have a set of the china levers on the vf500 which look damn near identical to the Pazzos, actually have to hold them next to eachother to tell the differences. Much like Olive said they are a wee bit more loose but they seem just as strong, hell the adjustment on the cheapies even seems a bit smoother.

Crap, I've been doing it wrong all these years, I'mma go lube up my "chain" now.........................

Don't get too jealous. Usual working hours are 6:30-6, Mon-Sat. Nice to have the toys, but you don't really have a lot of time either. Oooof, those are rough hours I admit. Hopefully you enjoy your job tho and it's not such a grind.

You lucky bastages with machine shops and all the toys!!!!!!!!!

Frank, keep a close eye on that K&N, I don't know if they've fixed, or even addressed, the spot weld leakage issue yet. Several that I know of have popped in the last year, not to mention all the ones out there that I haven't heared of. Good writeup tho!!!