Guest VFR XTC Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 * So I can afford to put the Racetech spring in my 02 VFR but not the gold valve kits. Is it worth just putting in the springs? Will I notice a difference? * I need to also replace the force seals... should just pick them up at the local MC shop or are there better brands I should get? * Finally, since I am not doing the gold valves, will I get anything from the Race Tech fork oil or should save my money and use a $12-$15 brand? What oil wt? Most of my riding is commuting with an occasional twisty. I am 180lb rider and thinking of going with the 1kg springs. thanks, Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy556 Posted September 28, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2007 Yes, do the springs and an oil change, it will be a HUGE improvement. Use OEM fork seals. I wouldn't bother with the expensive fork oil. Is that 180 dry weight, or geared up? Either way I thing 1kg is a little stiff and you may end up topped out. I would go with .9 or .95 tops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukebin Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Go with just the springs! I had a leaky fork seal and did a complete disassembly of both front forks. I replaced both fork seals and put in 10W Golden Spectro Fork Oil. Just this update made a difference in the performance! I am 200lbs and went with .95 springs in Seb's group buy. After adding those which was simple, except cutting the new spacer - the race tech springs are shorter than the stock, it was then greatly improved. This was on a 2001 VFR. Christian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtlecreek Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 250lbs w/ no gear .95 in front. well worth it. 1.0 would kill you on the road as no where near enough damping... .9 w/ 10w should be great..... if you dont believe us, look at racetechs online spring calculator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Do it!! .90's! :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer radar Posted September 28, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2007 I did just the .95 springs and 7w oil change, HUGE difference. So I highly recommend you do whatever you can afford. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forum CEO HispanicSlammer Posted September 28, 2007 Forum CEO Share Posted September 28, 2007 I would recomend taking off a shim on the OEM compression valve and adding one on the rebound if your going to get 1.0 springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FotoMoto Posted September 28, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2007 Yeah, don't use the racetech oil as the low weight is for their bigger valving. Unfortunately since you are having to pull the forks apart for the seals, adding gold valves while you are there sure would be an efficient use of time/effort. Get some kerosene to wash out the lowers, they will have a surprising lot of gunk in them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trace Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Good advice from everyone above. I did the full RaceTech deal (springs and valves and new bushings/seals) but didn't use their expensive oil.....just used a suitable weight from a local shop. I'm 200 lbs and went with the .9 springs, and worked the Gold Valve shim stacks accordingly. Very pleased with the results, and other VFR folks who've ridden my 2000 were very surprised at the difference in my bike vs. their squishy OEM setup. Along the lines of what Foto said, if you're going all the way in, you should do the bushings along with the seals. And yeah, buy a gallon of kero or mineral spirits and be prepared to do a lot of flushing/cleaning. Oh...bushing driver: You can buy an appropriate piece of PVC pipe (or a union fitting is actually better), saw it lengthwise, heat with a hotgun and some hose clamps to get the diameter just right, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 From my experiene ( and other rumors) Use Original Honda Fork Seals. - the aftermarket ' leakproof' will - leak. not worth saving $10. or whatever . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted September 28, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2007 clean and "leave overnight"...... :P The OEM springs are shorter ones that use a bit of metal tube (at least the 4th gens). Aftermarket gives you full length springs (these are "Wilbers" but maybe they all come from the same factory.....) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trace Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 The OEM springs are shorter ones that use a bit of metal tube (at least the 4th gens).Aftermarket gives you full length springs Uh...not for a 5th Gen. The RaceTech springs are slightly shorter, and come with about a foot of spare spacer pipe, which is plenty. You'll have to cut new (longer) spacers from this, and toss your OEM spacers. RaceTech's instructions give you a method for determining this new length (old spring length minus new [shorter] length = new spacer length), but that didn't work all that good for me for some reason. So what I did was use their method, plus some "by gosh and by golly" experimentation by going too long at first and then trimming a bit from each spacer once I got everything reassembled and on the bike. This allowed me to end up with adjusters that show 5-6 lines when sag was properly set, instead of being cranked down to zero like everyone's stock bike probably is right now (unless you weigh 120). This trimming process required removing the caps and pulling the spacers out (of course!), but it not a big deal at all once you've had the whole fork(s) apart for all the other work. You just use a coathanger to fish the rod back up out of the oil down there...... Use a large tubing cutter for spacer cutting to keep the ends square, or be prepared to do a lot of careful filing work if you're using a hacksaw. This will all make more sense once you get your forks apart. I'm sure it seems like rocket science to read about it, but it's not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Thanks for the great insight! I was only thinking of the 1.0 because Racetech website recommended them from their calculator. It surprised me since you would need to be a 120lb rider for the 0.90. OK… so I’ll go with the 0.90, 10w, and give a few more $ to the local Honda shop for the fork seals. FotoMoto- it would be efficient but just cannot swing it right now. Trace – Your talking about the inner and outer bushings as shown in HispanicSlammer’s “installing gold valves”? Where do I pick up the bushings? Honda? Should I replace the fork dust seals? If so, where do I get them? It pissed me off last week as I had not been on the bike in months (yes… that is a crime and I am guilty) and while changing the oil I looked up and saw the fork seal leaking… Thanks for supporting my barrage of questions. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy556 Posted September 28, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted September 28, 2007 You can get the bushings from Honda. New dust seals come with the fork seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Thanks for the great insight!I was only thinking of the 1.0 because Racetech website recommended them from their calculator. It surprised me since you would need to be a 120lb rider for the 0.90. OK… so I’ll go with the 0.90, 10w, and give a few more $ to the local Honda shop for the fork seals. FotoMoto- it would be efficient but just cannot swing it right now. Trace – Your talking about the inner and outer bushings as shown in HispanicSlammer’s “installing gold valves”? Where do I pick up the bushings? Honda? Should I replace the fork dust seals? If so, where do I get them? It pissed me off last week as I had not been on the bike in months (yes… that is a crime and I am guilty) and while changing the oil I looked up and saw the fork seal leaking… Thanks for supporting my barrage of questions. Steve RACE-tech's calculator is basically meant for that. Racing. Most street riders have reported that the "recommended" spring rates are on the stiff side and only make sense if you are railing twisties on perfectly smooth asphalt, like a billiard table. On real roads with real bumps at real-world speeds, slightly softer springs are preferred. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 I'm 215 on a '98. Went w/ 1.0 springs, Honda fork oil, and a good cleaning...as recommended above. Result: I now have sag adjustment, which in itself will make a great improvement...if properly done. Much better ride. If you pull it all apart, HS is right about the comp/rebound mod. I didn't...and wish I had. Maybe this winter. Would probably go with .9 or .95 at this point. SET THE SAG...FRONT AND BACK! Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trace Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Trace – Your talking about the inner and outer bushings as shown in HispanicSlammer’s “installing gold valves”? Where do I pick up the bushings? Honda? Should I replace the fork dust seals? If so, where do I get them? RaceTech has all that bushing and seal stuff, as does Honda-san, of course. But since you're ordering from RaceTech anyway....... RACE-tech's calculator is basically meant for that. Racing. Most street riders have reported that the "recommended" spring rates are on the stiff side and only make sense if you are railing twisties on perfectly smooth asphalt, like a billiard table. On real roads with real bumps at real-world speeds, slightly softer springs are preferred. Yep! Would probably go with .9 or .95 at this point. SET THE SAG...FRONT AND BACK! Yep! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Oh great.....I just got the call that my 1.0kg springs are in. So everyone here is saying that Racetech's calculator is meant for racing altho they give choices in the calculator for both street AND racing. I wish I knew that beforehand....... I'm about 200lbs so I suppose I should re-order the .95 kg springs? BTW, what weight fork oil would everyone recommend? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turtlecreek Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Oh great.....I just got the call that my 1.0kg springs are in. So everyone here is saying that Racetech's calculator is meant for racing altho they give choices in the calculator for both street AND racing. I wish I knew that beforehand.......I'm about 200lbs so I suppose I should re-order the .95 kg springs? BTW, what weight fork oil would everyone recommend? 255 here and running .95's it is a little rough on bumps, but stiff enough when hittin' the twisties....i think 1.0's will be pretty tough. 10w (default) seems to be most common. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrjim2002 Posted October 19, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted October 19, 2007 235#, .95 RT springs, 7W Maxima Oil. Dramatic results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechdziner714 Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 I am awaiting the final parts from JoeW to do my forkin upgrade. New seals, bushes, guides.95 SonicSprings (80$ all day long), 7W oil(????maybe 10W). I'm not doin the valves yet, although I know I should. I am trying to save for a track bike so that has priority. I will also be installing the 929 rear shock. What will be the difference between the 7 and 10w oil? I weigh 220 w/ out gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 I am awaiting the final parts from JoeW to do my forkin upgrade. New seals, bushes, guides.95 SonicSprings (80$ all day long), 7W oil(????maybe 10W). I'm not doin the valves yet, although I know I should. I am trying to save for a track bike so that has priority. I will also be installing the 929 rear shock.What will be the difference between the 7 and 10w oil? I weigh 220 w/ out gear. What a fatty! :warranty: :unsure: J/K I have extra valves and valve shims if you want to build a set prior to opening it up! :thumbsup: PS using high end fork oil like Ohlins, etc. will last longer and provide reduced stiction. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Don't forget that with all this Forking around you guys are doing to the front that you need to consider increasing the rear spring rate to better maintain the bikes balance and get better performance from your forks too. I first did the forks with valving & .95's and I installed an Ohlins on the rear with a stock rate spring, though it was an improvement it wasn't right. When I finally installed the proper rear spring on the rear (19kg for my 200 lbs) it transformed both ends of the bike!!! :thumbsup: Turns out running a soft/stock rear spring with new stiffer screwed up feel on both ends because the stiff front transfered more weight to the already to soft rear making it feel worse and the stiffer front tended to bounce across many bumps and irregular surfaces instead of absorbing them. I had a old post about it " transformed" don't know if it's still around, but consider stiffening the rear spring in close to the same percentage as the front and you'll be much happier. (note if you just commute and don't hit the twisties you may never notice it) B) found the old post! http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...;hl=transformed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Don't forget that with all this Forking around you guys are doing to the front that you need to consider increasing the rear spring rate to better maintain the bikes balance and get better performance from your forks too. Yeppers.....have a tracking # now for my Elka shock. Should be here shortly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted October 20, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted October 20, 2007 PS using high end fork oil like Ohlins, etc. will last longer and provide reduced stiction. :thumbsup: I know. Baley has stock in Ohlins :blink: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.