FotoMoto

Ordered, shipped, and received within 5 days to my door step via Amazon non-prime shipping. Total costs approximately .82 cents/pc. My local dealer charges MSRP for them: $3.80 each!

It's cheaper to buy them (#16242) from that same vendor but through Amazon! http://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Well-Nuts-M5-8-Length/dp/B0040D2P7E

Well Kevin it's beyond your skillz so I won't explain. Say do you have spare 5th gen motor? Mine's been running a little hot but damn the oil looks good! I shouldn't need to change it for at least 50k miles!!! BTW you'll need a special tool for this project: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13&products_id=51&zenid=Z40Abxs5Sk4Vqm9TNzpL30

Since you guys are so into bypass mods, I'm going to hook you up with another great idea. The oil bypass kit: http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11&products_id=40&zenid=OFYx5ZRs4FwQYQn1b7iWA3

Yeah, I gave 'em a shot and ordered a full system. I haven't put the headers on yet (winter project) but bolted on the pipe right away. I made a tiny bracket to link the muffler clamp to the stock mounting point on the footpeg bracket. Much cleaner look IMO. I'm one of those weird guys who doesn't like loud so I went with their longest can and also use the dB killer/baffle; even removed, it's still fairly quiet. If you want more, go with something like the OP got. Video is with the baffle in.

When I was building my RCBVFR (patent pending), I originally wanted to go with an RC45 tail. At the time, one of the track body companies still made one in fiberglass. It was very rigid, not all that light, and would most likely shatter in an accident; however, they are easy to repair when needed. I would look for plastic items.

What are you going to do about the stock dumbo's?

That's a good question. At the time, I had bought my second 4gen which was cheap because it needed all the bodywork fixed. After a lot of research, I narrowed it down to using the second gen CBR600RR bodywork because: a) 4 gen bodywork was very expensive to replace (now not available in the USA) b) 4 gen design and materials used were incredibly fragile (you can drop it on the right side and damage parts on the left!) c) CBR was a huge seller at the time so bodywork was cheap and plentiful on the used market. d) the red was a close enough match that painting was not needed. e) mounting points were a close match so very little fabrication needed.

Sorry to hear you're selling. To help, you should post better closeup pics of the repaired bodywork in your ad.

I'm not posting this in a fishing for compliments sort of way but I wonder how many replicas I've inspired via VFRdiscussion (the only place I've ever posted it) since I came up with the 2003+ CBR600R bodywork/KOSO gauges concept nearly 10 years ago? Man, how time flies. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/32026-rcbvfr-frankenviffer-texas-style/

Lockhart, less than 30 minutes south of the track, is my hometown. It's home to some really, really good Texas style BBQ joints and cheap motels. Trivia: the HBO series "The Leftovers" is filmed there. Beware of the high speed tollway next to the track, the cops hang out there hoping to catch motogp wannabe's. The grandstand seating will give you TV type viewing of the race as they have large screen monitors everywhere to watch the other parts of the course. I would also suggest the free, ground seating on "the hill" at turn 1 as it offers views of the the entire track (screens there too). At that time of the year, the weather can be all over the map from cold and rainy to hot and windy but usually it's mild with cool mornings and sunny afternoons. Not a lot of shade so prepare accordingly. Me and my son did a sat/sun combo and still didn't see and do everything available. As usual, trackside food/bev prices aren't cheap.

Years ago, I fixed up this 4G when used plastics were still reasonably plentiful and occasionally a good buy on ebay. You can't tell from the pic but nearly every panel had a slightly different hue to my eye.

Sorry, no idea but it didn't feel much different from the stocker.

Any lube is good IF you use it correctly. Start with a very clean chain by using rags and kerosene (harsher chemicals can damage the o-rings), let dry and apply the product. Choice of product is kinda' a religion with some. I've gone the gamut over the years and now just use wd-40. Why? Because it's a works well as both a light duty cleaner and protector and it has many other uses around the house. I lube via a quick wipe down after rides longer than 30ish miles. Put bike on centerstand in neutral, spray wd40 liberally on a rag, spin the tire clockwise while letting the bottom run of the chain run thru the damp rag. Only takes a minute or two, the chain always looks great because you cleaned and lubed at the same time, and minimum fling. This method also has the direction of the chain spinning backwards so you won't get your fingers possibly caught up in the rear sprocket.

Since I got this extra wheel for my speedy I thought I'd see what it would look like on the VFR. I use the term "on" very loosely as it doesn't fit and would need major modifications to work but it looks good to me.