jeremy556

Until a month ago, I hadn't ridden since, I think, TMAC 2012. Moved to Colorado in 2012, had problems getting the bike plated, put it on the back burner, got into other hobbies. A couple months ago, my co-workers egged me back into riding, however my VFR has developed lots of wiring problems in those years of down time. I picked up a 2018 Tuono on 9/8 and put 3000 miles on it since. I just logged in to VFRD for the first time in a long time as well, since I had a new PM notification from 2013. Good to see a lot of old friends in this thread.

Pilot Powers (original) front and rear. I don't think you can get any better than that on the street, and they are relatively economical these days. I have never been anything but disappointed with a Dunlop street tire.

I'm registered, but haven't had a chance to reserve a room yet, so I'm skewing the numbers even more... I was in Franklin last weekend, and the Franklin Motel is indeed closed, something about bank owned/repo'd on the sign.

I usually have us pretty well covered - from basic hand tools, chain breakers, tire changers, spare tires, batteries, chains, stators, R/Rs, air tools/compressor, etc.

I would contact R&G. It uses a replacement stainless bolt that goes through the engine and frame and is threaded on both sides. What happened to the old bolt? There is no way you could use the bolt without the sliders.

I don't have that particular one, but I can tell you that it doesn't work anything like a baxley. The Baxleys clamp the tire and will actually hold the bike well enough that it won't tip over without the whole chock tipping over, that one, won't.

The only one I know of is on the center stand. Which VFR and where, exactly, is it? This I have to see... Ciao, At least 6th gen. I think 5th gen too. I know it has been brought up here before and I had to drill one out for House when he snapped his off. It's been a while though so I can't remember exactly where it was. Maybe into a bracket for the center stand that mounts to the frame or engine case?? I remember he was getting the swingarm and a bracket powdercoated, so it had to be in one of those pieces. I can confirm this. I also snapped mine. IIRC, it is the right side bolt where the center stand hinges from.

WD40 isn't going to help you much, it is not designed to be a lubricant. Search your locale for penetrating oil, that's the stuff you want. WD stands for "Water Displacer," IIRC. From my experience and what I have read from people who know a lot more than I do, it is a terrible lubricant.

PB Blaster is a spray penetrating oil, kinda like WD40, but a lot better. Whenever working on exhaust, or any other corroded parts, a few doses of PB blaster, a torch, and an impact wrench make the job much easier.

That really is a sweet wheel-chock-on-a-dolly, though. I have seen a lot of bikes pulled on to a rollback on their side.

ABS model? Run a wire from the battery and splice it into the small gauge black wire at the R/R connector. You can search this site for "monitor wire" and probably come up with the old threads and detailed how to guides.

Only when they piss me off

Fixed

Plenty, just join up with Bailey's group. It is Franklin, NC. They would beg us to come back as long as we didn't burn the place down

what? Okay, some people like to clean their bikes as soon as they get back to the motel. Who?

I would think, not much. HPS brand were of a similar style - no cut needed, but had a bracket that was at least supported on two sides.

Basically +1 to this. I would suspect it is something simple like a twisted fuel hose, or a vacuum line in the way of the throttle linkage. The "auto enricher" on the VFR consists of a cylinder filled with wax, connected to the coolant lines, which pushes open the throttle butterflies. It is completely mechanical, and I am sure has nothing to do with your current issues. This makes me suspect of your mechanic's knowledge and experience when it comes to VFRs. When you say stalling, do you mean no power, and the engine won't rev any higher, or does the engine stop?

This was tossed down the track at about 100mph, and slid to a stop on tarmac. No damage to radiator, fuel tank, or frame. A year prior to this crash, a 25mph low side without frame sliders resulted in a damaged radiator, tank, upper fairing, and scratched frame = bike totaled. I sit corrected. Damn, is that an R&G???? It was

This was tossed down the track at about 100mph, and slid to a stop on tarmac. No damage to radiator, fuel tank, or frame. A year prior to this crash, a 25mph low side without frame sliders resulted in a damaged radiator, tank, upper fairing, and scratched frame = bike totaled.

Went and picked up a new Power front at cycle gear today and looked at the Q2. Feels like they quit making them out of steel; might have to try them out sometime.

Hole saw works just fine

I would say they have a bad reputation to overcome. I ran a few sets of Qualifiers, and was always completely disappointed with their performance. Pretty much the opposite of their 208GPs.

I'm in. Haven't ridden since the last TMAC... so I'll sweep the scenic group.

Nice work. Did you use the inside the bar heating elements that come with that kit, or the regular ones that mount on the outside of the bar, under the grip? I think I can see the wire on the outside, and don't think the inside version would work with the internal bar weights.

Make sure to replace the hubs/bearings, and check those leafs, hangers, and axle for rust perforation. I would grind the rust off and prime/paint that and the frame as well. Get a cheap folding front trailer jack with a wheel, makes moving it around a breeze, even loaded.