jeremy556

I would think, not much. HPS brand were of a similar style - no cut needed, but had a bracket that was at least supported on two sides.

This was tossed down the track at about 100mph, and slid to a stop on tarmac. No damage to radiator, fuel tank, or frame. A year prior to this crash, a 25mph low side without frame sliders resulted in a damaged radiator, tank, upper fairing, and scratched frame = bike totaled. I sit corrected. Damn, is that an R&G???? It was

This was tossed down the track at about 100mph, and slid to a stop on tarmac. No damage to radiator, fuel tank, or frame. A year prior to this crash, a 25mph low side without frame sliders resulted in a damaged radiator, tank, upper fairing, and scratched frame = bike totaled.

Hole saw works just fine

The bike isn't throwing away electricity. The load on the engine from the stator is the resistance of the system attached to it. As you draw more amps, the stator will be harder to turn, using more fuel. No, the stator generates full output (for the rpms it is turning) at all times. You can't increase the load on it, you can only siphon off the power it generates (which is why we have a regulator to soak up the power that the bikes systems don't burn up). Anytime you hear words like "Can I just say" or "That's a very good question" or "let me tell you"... you're listening to either a politician or a spin doctor. You're right, permanent magnet generator, not field controlled generator on bikes.

The bike isn't throwing away electricity. The load on the engine from the stator is the resistance of the system attached to it. As you draw more amps, the stator will be harder to turn, using more fuel. Actually, it is, as the VFR, and most bikes used a fixed magnet generator, which is different than the type used on cars.

So you are going to make HHO from electrolysis, the electricity supplied by the burning HHO? Ya know, there are laws against this sort of thing

What are you trying to accomplish? Better mileage? More power? I never did read a clear explanation of goals. Explain to me again how adding a stoichiometric mixture of one fuel is going to reduce the unburned portion of the primary fuel. I am not seeing the change in the amount of free oxygen available to burn off the original excess primary fuel. Electrolizing water = 2H2O --> 2H2 + O2 (with the input of electrical energy from your motorcycle) Combusting those gasses = 2H2 + O2 --> 2H2O (with the creation of heat energy, some of which is lost to the atmosphere) You're converting water into gasses then converting them back into water, correct? But you've used electrical energy from your motorcycle to do it. Unfortunately you don't recieve all that power back, thanks to the SECOND LAW OF THERMODYNAMICS. Plus, you are taking up the finite space in the cylinder that could be filled with gasoline and air and substituting in a fuel that has a lower specific energy. It has been a long time since I have sat through a Chem lecture, so please feel free to point out any error in my understanding. Add in the pump that you are also running and what I'm seeing is a motorcycle that is less efficient than it was before. A motorcycle that has less power than it did before. And a motorcycle that is mechanically more complicated and argueably less safe than it was before. This about sums it up. Google "Brown's Gas" for a thorough debunking.

Disconnect the PAIR system to get rid of the popping. The back fire has always been there, you can just now hear the combustion that takes place in the headers as the PAIR valves open and allow oxygen to mix with unburned fuel and hot headers.

Kanadian Ken

I haven't checked the rule book, but I would say no. Don't see too many bikes without solid rear sets, and those are running stock parts.

Not the best pics, taken in the trailer while loading it up. Broken footpeg hanger, trashed center stand and shifter Upper and side fairing, bar end and lever of course. The crackling in the fuel tank paint is my crappy rattle can clear coat that didn't last very long after fixing damage from a previous crash. The fairing did not touch the tank, radiator, or frame in this case. What was left of the frame slider, and one of the reasons I would prefer Radar's. It is difficult to remove the slider when the nut and the engine mount bolt have become one. The bike took a very long slide, it never left the track, just slid on its side straight down the back straight at Jennings.

When you tip over, the fairing stay will bend, and the fairing will crush the fuel tank, radiator, and the frame itself. My bike was totaled for this exact reason, when the fairing scratched the frame.

Try this link: Frame Sliders Search Results If that doesn't work, hit search at the top of the forum and search for "Frame Sliders." The topic has been done to death, usually about once a week since the forum started. If you want effective frame sliders, you have to drill your fairings.

So why on earth would you buy another VFR? Those are some crazy pictures. I just want to get my vfr fixed. Make sure everything is ok (run it for 300miles) and then sell it. My VFR days are limited. Honda bought him a new one. The VFR is a good bike, just has a couple issues, like wiring. I doubt you will find any bike that doesn't have issues. If you are able to fix your wiring problem, you will likely be trouble free from here on out.

You are the reason for the fix! "YOU'RE ON FIRE!" "Oh, thanks man." "NO, YOU'RE ON FUCKING FIRE!" Hahahah. :happy: :goofy: F***! That is funny. Ok, I'm not sober right now, but it it still quite funny, ain't it? ppm What's funnier is to hear him tell it in person, with or without the people that were there telling him it was on fire, when there were flames coming out of the bike. His bike literally burned down and Honda bought him a new 07 RWB after not being able to fix his bike, and issuing the wiring harness recall because of his bonfire.

You are the reason for the fix! "YOU'RE ON FIRE!" "Oh, thanks man." "NO, YOU'RE ON FUCKING FIRE!"

WTF is this "mechanics wire" you speak of?? Is that like a coat hanger or something? Can't you just use your finger? (I imagine you are using your middle finger by now...) :goofy: And yeah, a pipe cutter works great! :cool: Love ya Ken! :goofy: I could use my finger if it were about 10 inches long - how do you pull the spring out with the fork still attached to the bike? Shit - a pipe cutter would have been the way to do it - damn - stupid me..... You could use a 10 inch long finger for a lot of things. :cool: If the fork caps are off and forks are compressed, the springs shouldn't be too far inside the tubes. I always just use a set of needlenose pliers.

The Racetech springs are shorter than the stock springs, so you will definitely need to make a new spacer. A tubing cutter works well as well :fing02:

If you weigh more than 130lbs, go ahead and change the springs without revalving if you can't revalve at the same time. As far as changing oil weight, much of the conventional wisdom I have read over the years seems to be wrong according to what some knowledgeable guys who make a living at doing suspension and my own observations have told me. I would stick to within 2.5wt of stock with stock valving. If you start putting in heavy ass oil, you will have way too much damping, which while reducing or eliminating dive during braking, which seems like a good thing, is actually not. Too much damping which will cause your front tire to bounce off the ground instead of compress the suspension which will reduce traction, obviously. Brake dive is a good thing. You are transferring the majority of the weight of the rider and bike onto the front wheel, so there is close to 100% more than normal weight on the front end, and the dive makes it easier/faster to transfer the weight to achieve maximum traction and braking force.

Why? If you don't have the revs/mph/wind speed memorized already, just shift down for more revs, up for less.

Odd to spend that much for hoses. If I were spending that much, I would want all the strait sections made of aluminum tubing to at least save some weight.