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HughJebolzak

5th gen voltage readings seem normal?

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I've got a major trip looming and am getting things in order for the road. I'm under the impression that the previous owner has replaced the R/R at some point and installed a VFRness. The existing R/R looks to be a Shindengen SH689DA. I've read that the preferred unit is an SH847AA so I'm not sure how current this unit is (no pun intended).

I don't think the bike has had the stator replaced. It's got 50,000 km on the clock and of course it's 20 years old.

Here are the readings I took today whilst mucking about.

 

Volts bike off       13.2

Volts at idle          13.7

volts at 2000rpm 14.2

volts at 5000rpm 13.8

 

It seems that the volts rise a bit from idle to 2000 rpm then drop back off to idle level at 5000rpm.

Are these numbers anything out of the ordinary? I've yet to check stator resistances.

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My (low mile) '99 was doing that - though it wasn't giving that bump up at 2,000 rpm.  The original R/R had voltage dropping steadily from the high 13's to the low 13's as RPM's came up.  A new R/R now has it around 14.2 to 14.4 at all RPM's.   Though I would check the stator (if you're adventuresome pull the cover and take a look), 5th gens don't seem to eat stators for breakfast the way 6th gens do.  A replacement R/R is certainly cheaper (and more convenient)  than a failure a long way from home.     Definitely good to get it sorted before a trip. 

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I was doing a bit of a google search for the SH689DA and in one post it states that this is the OEM r/r. I think that it's the upgraded version as the fins are angled and not flat.

Does anyone know if this is a mosfet R/R?

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13 hours ago, HughJebolzak said:

I was doing a bit of a google search for the SH689DA and in one post it states that this is the OEM r/r. I think that it's the upgraded version as the fins are angled and not flat.

Does anyone know if this is a mosfet R/R?

Your OEM R/R SH689DA  is working as it should  today, but they do have a high fallout. Over time, the volts at revs tend to drift lower to the point of failure.  That's what happened to mine, and generally is the consensus on this board.  It is not a mosfet.... Generally the fixes are to go to a FH020aa or the SH847AA --- the latter is phyically larger you will need to figure out mounting.... 

I'm running the FH020AA and has been bullet proof so far...  -- Supplier... www.roadstercycle.com    -- btw if you do the upgrade R/R ditch the VFRness. 

There are quite a few of the FH020aa R/Rs out there running fine on VFRs today... 

20170506_234252-M.jpg

 

-- Your stator is probably ok for the miles you have, you could test it..... 

 

 

:beer:

 

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Being in Canada, the easiest R/R to get my hands on would be a Rick's Motorsports Electrics 10_125H hotshot R/R. Mosfet.

Why would I ditch the VFRness?

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2 hours ago, HughJebolzak said:

Being in Canada, the easiest R/R to get my hands on would be a Rick's Motorsports Electrics 10_125H hotshot R/R. Mosfet.

Why would I ditch the VFRness?

In my opinion it adds connections to the system and that is the highest failure rate of the whole system. The connectors loosen and start arcing and melting the plastic. I’m talking about the OE connections here. So if OE connectors are prone to failure, why add more? I’ve never gotten a clear answer on what the VFRness does, but I think the theory is it adds grounding points? Electricity takes the shortest path to ground, so adding more wires doesn’t make sense to me. 

If you convert to the Roadster Cycle R/R (either one) you’ll be running the + direct to the battery (through a 30a fuse or breaker) and the - direct to the frame. 

 

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Does anyone have any experience with a Rick's 10_125H R/R or opinion? I don't think I can easily get my hands on an FH020aa or SH847AA here.

In the process of replacing the stator (which I bought a while back)

Old v.s. new photos;

20190603_221317.jpg

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1 hour ago, HughJebolzak said:

In the process of replacing the stator (which I bought a while back)

Old v.s. new;

20190603_221317.jpg

Your old doesn't look too bad! Does it measure very low ohms phase to phase and no continuity to frame? Also that new one seems to look like a smaller diameter to me, be worth checking.

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Seriously?

I thought it looked fairly baked.

I will check with a multimeter and post the numbers tonight.

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That's about how one I removed looked. It was functioning fine, but I did the MOSFET upgrade and figured a whole new system would be worth it.

 

I also removed my VFRness at that time. The VFRness is a bit of a quick fix, better than nothing sort of solution. The basic idea is that the stock harness is a bit convoluted and doesn't provide a good electrical path from r/r to battery. The VFRness jumps in and provides one, at the cost of adding extra connectors. With the Roadstercycle kit, you're providing a nice healthy main wire all the way to the battery and a good solid path to the frame ground, making the VFRness' extra connectors completely unnecessary. 

 

Basically, it's a band-aid vs how Honda should have done it in the first place.

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3 hours ago, HughJebolzak said:

Seriously?

I thought it looked fairly baked.

I will check with a multimeter and post the numbers tonight.

No, they all look like that, due to only the lower 1/3 or so being covered in oil during operation.  When the're actually charred, then they're baked!

 

Ciao,

 

JZH

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Ha. I would have thought it was toast. Did a resistance test and all was good.

0.5 Ohms between phases and infinity phase to ground.

I'm guessing it's original, so 20 years old and the R/R is likely 10 or so. Maybe I'll keep it as a "road trip emergency" spare. And to answer Grum's size question, same diameter.

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1 hour ago, HughJebolzak said:

Ha. I would have thought it was toast. Did a resistance test and all was good.

0.5 Ohms between phases and infinity phase to ground.

I'm guessing it's original, so 20 years old and the R/R is likely 10 or so. Maybe I'll keep it as a "road trip emergency" spare. And to answer Grum's size question, same diameter.

Might have just been an optical illusion that your new one looks slightly smaller in diameter than the old one.  

WARNING! Just noticed another thing that concerns me with your new one. You appear to have one Black and two Clear zip ties most likely supporting the output wires. Not a good environment inside your engine for zip ties, they will surely become brittle and break ending up in you engine internals. There is absolutely no way I would rely on a zip tie inside my engine! 

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Tldr.
Short answer: Yes, your readings are normal.
Enjoy!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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12 hours ago, Grum said:

Might have just been an optical illusion that your new one looks slightly smaller in diameter than the old one.  

WARNING! Just noticed another thing that concerns me with your new one. You appear to have one Black and two Clear zip ties most likely supporting the output wires. Not a good environment inside your engine for zip ties, they will surely become brittle and break ending up in you engine internals. There is absolutely no way I would rely on a zip tie inside my engine! 

I noticed that and was concerned about it as well. That's the way it came from the manufacturer. The OEM unit had a small metal clamp holding the wires in place.

I did a bit of a google search on the topic and it seems that others have had the same concerns. The zip ties on this particular brand of stator are meant to stay in place so I've read.

It's all put back together now. I suppose I could take it all apart and remove the zip ties.

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Hmmm... I just Googled "high temp zip tie" and found some that were made of PEEK... good oil resistance, temp stable for continuous use to around 350F. Since you can get zip ties that would be fine, I suppose you have to assume the manufacturer used some that will hold up.

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Rick's Motorsports Electrics

They've been in the business for years and get good reviews from what I've seen.

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Been through a few Rick's stators. I buy OEM now. The aluminum output wires on the Rick's are the weak point.

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2 hours ago, MBrane said:

Been through a few Rick's stators. I buy OEM now. The aluminum output wires on the Rick's are the weak point.

Aluminium output wires! Are you sure? I've never heard of that. Copper is a better conductor. Even connecting the aluminium wires to the copper windings could be an issue!

Are you sure they aren't tin plated copper wires?

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tinned copper is what I was thinking as well, if so it should give  good anti corrosion properties, one thing less to worry about

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Here's the last 5th gen Rick's stator with less than 20K on it. When I removed the screw for the hold-down the wires simply fell off.

 

IMG_0724.jpg

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Contact statorkev.com here in Ontario ( Georgetown)

He will rewind your stock stator for about half the cost of new. He did a great job for me no problems a year later. Then go to Roadstercycle.com and order either the  FH020aa or SH847AA and his wiring kit. After a lot of research that's what I did and I think its the best possible setup. Add a volt meter for peace of mind in the future.

Good luck.

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