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Replace Your Oil Cooler Lines Diy


Mohawk

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So as we all know, the 5th gens are getting long in the tooth, with the youngest models being 14 years old & the oldest being 18years old. The following would also work on 6th gen with longer hoses.

So in the UK Honda want £270 (US$450) for two news oil cooler lines. Whilst they are great & will last for another 10+ years, that is still a lot of dosh.

So thinking cap on and this is the end result.

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So the the main change is to remove the cooler & hoses. I bought a secondhand cooler for £15 ($25) so I could experiment. So through measurements, I worked out these options. Cut off the existing hose mounts, so the cooler looks like this.

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Then you need to add fittings to the cooler. You can do this in two ways, your choice, first is a weld on fitting, which you would obviously need to get welded on. The other option is what I did & drill & tap the cooler inlets to accept a screw in fitting & use sealant & an O-ring. See pic below.

So you then need 48 inches of aeroquip type oil cooler hose & end fittings, to suit the cooler fittings you just added, as per the pics below.

This shows all the parts & options.

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The screw fitttings set I used, needs a little trimmed off the end that goes in the cooler to allow the bottom passage to carry oil.

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Then for the sump end fitting, you need to cut the existing ones off, use a hacksaw or dremel, to remove the crimp on metal clamp, as per this picture, cut it off in diagonal shape then use a screw driver & pliers to widen the cut to allow the hose to slip off.

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The last part is to add the sump fittings to the hose. You can just use a hose clamp or a posh one like the one in the picture. The left side needs 20-22 inches of hose depending on how you route it & the right side is 21-23 inches. These are 5th gen lengths, the cooler is located further forward in the upper fairing on the 6th gens, so you will need more hose.

Total cost for parts was £65 ($90) plus a bit of time & effort.

I fitted this yesterday, and its only had static runs, but no leaks. I'll report back once i have some miles on the bike with this setup.

I'll link the parts info on a reply.

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I love innovative solutions to problems. Nicely done! The hose end fittings could be coordinated with the same color silicone coolant hoses - it would look great!

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Thanks guys. Just a quick note that you should wrap insulating tape twice around the hose where you want to cut it, to stop the shears slipping & to stop the end fraying. All fittings are AN-6 which is 8mm internal bore same as original hoses.

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Nice job, I might have to try that. This reminds me, does anyone remember a thread where a dude swapped an oil cooler from an RC51 onto a 5th gen? I think the RC51 had 4 rows on the oil cooler as opposed to the VFR's 2 rows. Wonder how that turned out.

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Yep the RC51 change was done, can't remember who. point to note on 5th gen, is a deeper cooler would may be hit by the front wheel on full compression. also the mounting points are not in the same place !

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I discovered that where I cable tied them to the rad mounts, that you need to add small inlets to the front fairing insert above the exhaust manifolds.

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Wasn't Rick Oliver doing something with oil cooler lines? ISTR him using BSP fittings, though, which would be challenging to find in the 'States.

Do you have any pics of the o-ring radiusing you did? And what thread did you tap into the cooler? AN adapters are available with different threads.

Cheers,

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Just in case anyone is using the standard steel piping on the VFR, it's 10mm tubing.

I discovered this when installing a 1986 VFR oil cooler. I needed to re-orient the lines a bit due to the angles of the cooler inlet/outlet.

3/8" Swagelok tubing fittings would not do it, so I sourced 10mm Swagelok unions and they are perfect.

bcb7.jpg

Oil_Cooler_2.JPG

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Thanks for that mohawk, just saved me a lot of leg work. Was thinking of doing the same to mine as well. On another note whats the best way to bring the oil cooler back to a "as new" look? Mine looks pretty crummy plus i've got to do the oil cooler on my NC 30, thats bad as well.

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  • 7 months later...

So as we all know, the 5th gens are getting long in the tooth, with the youngest models being 14 years old & the oldest being 18years old. The following would also work on 6th gen with longer hoses.

So in the UK Honda want £270 (US$450) for two news oil cooler lines. Whilst they are great & will last for another 10+ years, that is still a lot of dosh.

So thinking cap on and this is the end result.

My recently acquired 2001's oil pipes are in a bad way. Not leaking, but probably not far off.

Few questions, if you don't mind:

1) Long term (8 months since you posted this) is all ok?

2) The connection to the radiator - does it need to be straight or can the 45 degree connector (same seller on ebay) be used?

3) What size drill and tap did you use for the radiator?

Cheers. :biggrin:

n13ldo.

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  • 1 month later...
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Well, the bike has been fine, one hose connector to rad fitting needed a little extra torque after I noticed a tiny amount of oil on the fitting after a couple of months. It's been dry ever since.

I assume you mean the hose end fittings.You can use whichever shape connector suits you, but you will need to check it will fit in the space available.

I can't recall what size drill/tap I used, and my garage is upside down with another bike build at the moment. But it will be whatever the AN6 fitting as advertised has.

I was thinking of offerring these on an exchange basis in the UK. As I have a spare cooler now. I'd use the weld on fittings for exchange units.

To clean the rad, if the fins are structurally OK, as in not corroded then an untrasonic clean & electrolosis would be best. The fins are very delicate, so blasting may damage them.

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